Im going thru everything myself first because Customer Service will just read off a ABC123 script.These blasted cams even record me setting them up! .....And then decide not to record anything thereafter.... but next day they might decide to
@tali4569 yeah true. I have really only had one issue with this specific brand it on the videos it would speed up the 10 second clip into like a 3-5 second clip. But I reset it back to factory settings and reformatted the card and it seemed to work. Double check the SD card requirements that surprisingly will cause issues too
Have you tried it using the vents on the back rather than the chimney/stack? I would imagine that it may reduce the hot spot on the right, or the cool spot on the left. I bought a chimney for mine but hesitated to install it. Edit: I have the 850 so maybe yours didn't come with the vents at the back. I'm new to smoking so don't know much about other smokers
I watched your build on a AR-10. My bolt release needs the threaded screw that you show. My parts kit only comes with a roll pin. Where do I get that screw?? ps. The screw that uses a 1/16th Allen wrench. Thanks
Where did you buy your bolt release from? Or the parts kit for it? Was it aero? I believe they usually supply it. Maybe reach out to them and see if they can get you one
Thanks for the answer. I will remember Aero for possibly other things. I just punched in that screw on Google and like 3 company's have it. So I ordered one for o think it was 3.99. we shall see when I get it if it fits proper and that I don't need a whole new bolt release. Thanks again. I will look up where I got my whole parts kit and let u know
For the issue remaining I would self buy a stainless steel plate either perforated or solid and do myself some holes with adustable legs with some stainless screws and nuts eg M6/50mm
You mentioned using other nocks previous to these yet you seem as if these are the first time you've ever used one? Don't really care about the weather and insect reports.
The best way I found was using a touch up auto paint at any parts store. Clean first with ( NON CHLORINATED ) brake cleaner. It has to be non-chlorinated so it doesn't damage the surface. You don't have to be so perfect in applying the paint just as long as it gets down into the stamp. Don't overdo it but it does have to be perfect. Then let it dry. Once it dries use the patch and q-tips with non-chlorinated brake clean and wipe over the surface and around the paint and all the paint will come off the lower without damaging the anodizing. The touch up paint is 15 bucks but is impervious to other gun cleaners but can be easily removed with the ( NON CHLORINATED) brake cleaner. To remove dip a q-tip in the cleaner and swap the color and let set for a little bit. Then just wipe clean. No trace of paint will remain..
You could maybe create a concrete base for it to sit in, like concrete in a 5 gallon bucket or something like that. But I would be afraid it would not be stable enough when you get your deer hanging up.
Hey Martin Mal wieder ein super unterhaltsammes Format. Für mich als langjähriger Radler ich würde gern mal das tex-lock Fahrradschloss sehen. ab 100 € aufwärts. Ein Stoff Schloß mit super bewertungen. Liebe Grüße Stephan
Try a trager style deflector, it has more mass and made of thicker steel. I use it in a moded PB 700 fb. I have the same deflector in my PB Lockhart you bought, but haven't trsted the grill surface yet!
You can do a 45 or 25degree angle as well you need to know the length of the wrench your using to add that to the torque though. Simple way to look at it anytime you add length you add leverage.
This build is more like a LR-308, not really an AR-10. Maybe that's why you were having some issues with compatibility. Some AR parts are not compatible with the LR 308 platform.
What a minute... nock tuning? Shit, I just came here after googling "arrow spine" Do you have an in depth arrow building guide or one for crossbow bolts? I'm trying to use some scrap aluminum shafts to diy some bolts but i didn't realize how involved this is ur how precise everything needs to be. Tried making some wooden nocks and they either fall out after a while or get smashed into the shaft. Think i need to switch to plastic nocks on.
I like them a lot, mostly helpful for tuning and being able to reuse them. They are super durable. Only complaint is they are a bit louder than traditional fletchings
Thanks for watching! Links to material are in the description and details of the set up are described in the video. Is there something specific you have a question on?
Same set up I have..but mine is made out of metal square tubing..I been a welder for 17 years in structural Bridge for the state if Texas also welded for the oil field manufacturing battery tanks, heater treaters vessels and water separators all requiring x ray code welds..so fabricating a simple frame in a field of my expertise is why I chose steel it's what I'm comfortable working with..but mine is a single post with support brace like you have there and I welded 2 pulleys to guide my cable..works great..winch and pulleys I purchased on Amazon spent less than 50 bucks and I had pipe laying around..hope 2 hang some deer next season..
I do not use loctite in mines, only antizeise in the barrel nut and castle, not need in muzzle either if using a crush wash, rockset if using shims but mines ?I like to unscrew the flash hiders for DT suppressing. There are lots of conflicting info about using loctite but I prefer not to because my rifles are for fun not to go to battle with them so chances of anything backing up before I could notice and correct it are slim.
Yeah, now that I have a suppressor wish I didn’t use rockset. I transport my guns a lot and thought the vibrations and stuff could cause issues some went with the locktite, but I do agree it’s probably not needed for most people. Thanks for watching the videos!
I am just about finishing my .308 build, prices are a thing of the moment as now 2 years later they are more, some parts are about same but I paid for my lower also AP but FDE in town $200.00; I wanted to do an 80% lower but 5D tactical/80% Arms screwed me with the order initially, lost it and took my money still fighting for refund; they sent another one on a different order that reads coming in couple days; we will see. In all my parts I am close to 2K but including AR10 tools and 4 Lancer Magazines; I want to do another upper that would be a 6.5 and then swap it to use same lower, as soon as recover from this expense will work on that one. The Scope I am eyeballing is a Nightforce that sells for $1800.00, if one wants to truly enjoy precision shooting which is the purpose of the builds then that is the price one must pay, going with a budget scope would negate having expended so much on parts! but I am still holding my horses about the scope; it is a big commitment. The weight of my system so far u loaded without scope is close to 11 pounds; would be around 15 with scope and loaded but this is a bench rifle, not a back slinger, not even intended for hunting!
Curious about actual height needed? I mean I guess the height of this one would handle elk/cattle sized animals but could be overkill for just deer and hog skinning.
Yeah I wasn’t positive of what I really needed, but we had those posts leftover and figured to just make sure we were not too short. I also wanted to be able to get it up high enough so you were not having to bend over much to get any part of the animal
If mostly used it for bow hunting, but I have a blind about 75-100 yards away and if you have a good scope you can still see something in the middle of the light. It’s tougher as they move around the edges of the light though! Thanks for watching!
You can make that piece out of a foil pan. Just cut it to where it fits the ears of the sear plate. Works just as good. And from the looks of that metal, not much thinner. Lol
