Videos of the airport life, and HOT RODS I am a 28 year aircraft mechanic, live in Michigan right now, any requests appreciated, webmaster founder of aircraftmechanic.org
Concrete Vibrator Vibration Motor 30W-120W Single Phase 30W AC 110V 3600rpm Electric Vibrating Motors Silo Motor hopper This is what its listed as on amazon. I put a momentary switch on mine, because I don't think you would want it to run full time.
Hi there from the UK. I have a blasting cabinet, sadly not a Snap On, but it runs really well and I wouldn't be without it. However I am looking to upgrade the viewing window to a better spec. A Snap On rep told me that Snap On blasting cabinets used a fine wire mesh under the glass window and that protects the glass from the grit and so it never needs replacing. Is this right? If so do you have or know the spec of the wire mesh? Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes
Good morning. I do not see a spec on the website. Mine came with a clear film protector that goes in the inside. Since I’m blasting walnut shells I took it off and it hasn’t hurt the glass.
@48spokes83 Mine had a piece of plexiglass on top with a piece of glass under it with film protector on it. What I did was remove the plexiglass and had a sacrificial piece of glass cut to go under the original glass. You can see great, the glass last a long time and cheap to replace.
Well, it's going to suck. I'll take light plastic sheeting, tape along the inside, cover the outside, and base clear it. I should have done it with the interior out but I got everything out of order.
Your lucky the EPA is not banging on your door for flushing that nasty stuff down the drain. I know you say the proper precautions have been made but I call BS unless you are capturing and treating your own waste water which I highly doubt. No wonder the US’s cancer rates are exponentially increasing with this kind of blatant disregard to the law and the environment.
It’s surprising to me how many videos about this just have them dumping it down the drain or into their driveway. It contains hexavalent chromium, about the nastiest stuff you can put in a bottle. It’s irresponsible (and usually illegal) to dump down the drain.
per 1201 MSDS: "...Inhalation: Inhalation of mists of this product may cause severe irritation and burns to the respiratory tract." You should at least provide a warning in your vid about this section of the MSDS. Clearly, you cannot conduct a video wearing a respirator, but continued use of cleaner, 1201, primer, and paint ALL warrant proper PPE including respirator use.
Thanks for the work. Despite comments to the contrary, I think the audio is fine, we're working on airplanes not an acoustic kumbaya concert. Beechcraft over Bach.
Love your video, have the obvious follow-up questions... How does stripper affect alodine? I am talking the normal paint/adhesive stripper like automotive store aircraft stripper. It wrinkles the paint and adhesive but does it affect alodine? How should I progress from stripped untreated aluminum through alodine to paint and/or adhesive application? I am doing an interior upgrade on my aircraft and therefore stripped my seat frames and I am looking to recover them soon with new materials. I'm looking for ideas regarding how to best protect the aluminum frame parts as I adhesive the new materials to the frame. I plan alodine then zinc phosphate primer (I'm in California where zinc chromate it forbidden) before adhesive. Any advice?
I do not believe non abrasive stripping will affect the alodine, although a color change would indicate so. Anything stripper wise you can buy at an auto parts store is some weak stuff and probably won't work very well. PPGH makes the old school stripper that really works. As far as the process, that's what we showed here. Have a pic of the seat frames? Lots of ideas, but basically prep the metal, then a good topcoat would usually work fine unless your in some really bad locale which would increase the chances of corrosion. Kind of hard to be specific when I can only guess what your working with
Many jurisdictions prohibit wastewater containing chromate (from the Alodine 1201) going down the municipal sewers these days. It needs to be collected and taken to be neutralized first. A local metal chrome plating shop might be willing to take such wastewater for processing with their own waste.
This is great, I would like to know however if the aluminum prep 33 will eat away at hard black anodizing? I have an item that has a hard black anodized area on the outside and I would really like the alodine to stick, but am afraid of the prep 33.
@@jaime3576 well. I’m not sure what you Mean by prepare. I mean the anodizing is a top coat over the aluminum. Why are you looking to prep a surface like that
@@Steve340 only the outside of the box has hard black anodizing on it, then it was machined on the inside, so the outer shell of the box is hard black anoxized and the inside is raw aluminium, we need to alodine the inside, we cannot hard anodize it on the inside, it would not be as "per drawing", we need to alodine on the inside for corossion resistance and still maintain electrical conductivity
@@jaime3576 in that case just mask off the anodized surface. Apply the alumni prep with scotch brite if cladded and rock on. Just make sure to protect the anodizing
And that was on only on Phantom! 8-)=) We had screw removal boxes in the AMUs and assigned Sheet Metal troops because there were so many to do. Pix of Russian fighters show they're insane enough to use Phillips panel screws which reflects utter stupidity,
Just bought this, because I am tired of using the shrinker/stretcher at my facility. Since it's a federal facility, it's a pain to order any tools or machinery because you have to do a letter of justification for purchase. I'll fabricate some hat bushings to let it track and grease them, and I'll rivet some teflon spacer pads inside that square assembly to let it all ride evenly. As for the roller pins, luckily we have tons of round stock I can make pins with a closer tolerance on the lathe. I guess I'll just fix China's disaster 😆 To me, it looks better than spending double on the crappy grizzly product. As for the roller wheels, I'll be shadowing them in a cabinet since this is an Aviation Facility
Thanks for the review. I am thinking about picking one of these up to play around with. They currently have them for $129 from one supplier. I figure the anvils are worth that even if I had to completely build a new frame. But I think I would just try and do like you did and get by shimming it up true.
@@Steve340 thanks you sir. Ive normally used these to extract 1/4 and 3/8 6 point bolts on helicopters, but I'm confused at which I should buy. There's two versions 01-398-2869 (removing 8-32 to 1/4 in. screws) and 01-398-2868 (removing 1/4 to 3/8 in. screws). Which do you recommend for aviation?
