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Really all I was trying to do was hammer it to fit within the rails. As long as it fits within the width when you torque down the rails it will self adjust the length. Good luck with the project!
@@dylan-ly1oz Pretty much exactly what I did. I've since added the butterfly brace attachment and have had great results. Still one of my favorite chassis rigidity upgrades I have done
@@slowmotorco glad to hear. I’ve been worried because mine are pancaked and I’m worried about the strength of the metal since it basically all got flattened. Heard online though that it’s less structural and more for floor pan reinforcement.
Why not go with a clutch pack, Torseen is basically the same as open but it can transfer 75% of the torque instead of 50%, it will still slip like crazy on turns with g-force.
Ease of install and price were a big factor in this. This is still very much a street build so I don't go into turns with that kind of force. I also was most interested in the final gearing being a 3.63 for the 6 speed I was prepping to swap into the car. Unfortunately I don't have the technical skills needed to change the ring and pinon myself and didn't want to shell out the cost for someone else to do it for me
@@slowmotorco Looking at this video I think you underestimate yourself, you can do it for sure with the help of internet. Clutch pack does cost more and the flaws of the Torsen are less evident at low speeds. Maybe further down the car's progress you will see the need for it. Nice Video.
I have a 74 1/2 MGB. I usually start it up a couple times during the winter here in NC, and come spring, it'll fire right up and run like a sewing machine. Not so this time. The battery went stone dead, as I did not start it over the past couple months. It turns over but will not idle. I placed some gas in the carb (Weber) and it'll crank but then die. I'm only 3 min. into the video, so hopefully will pick up something to help me. I really don't want to tow it to the mechanic!
I had a similar issue and ended up having to rebuild both the carbs as well as the fuel pump. It will start right up now but gas now pours from the charcoal canister so I am still trying to diagnose myself. I hope it goes smoothly for you! Best of luck
Try Napa brand engine cleaner, no work rinse fast don't let it dry. See if you can make us a video on power steering flush? I can hear yours way over here. Good work!
dude... if you don't know how to do thing correctly, call a mechanic that does. Don't be beating on the parts to release them from one another. The shifter comes right off if you twist the white plastic collar 90º and then pull it out.
You can just slide the metal shield behind the flywheel without taking everything off. I did the same thing but I noticed you could just slide it in place.
Not realizing what i was doing during another job, I unbolted the holddown clamp for the synchronizer and spun it around multiple times, every which way (trying to remove it for another reason) and then decided I dont want to remove it. I repositioned it so it is facing the exact same orientation as before (which is evident due to the lack of grease where the hold down clamp was) - did i mess up any timing by doing that or am I good to start up? I never moved the crankshaft during the process so it is in the same position as before I touched the synchronizer, it is also not in TDC if that makes a difference.
A bit of a technical question and honestly above my paygrade. Theoretically you should have no issue if everything is in the same position, but I can't be absolutely certain on that one. May want to do some additional research before attempting to start. Good Luck!
@@slowmotorco Thanks for the response. I came to the same conclusion - I removed the sensor on top so I can see the position indicator "flag" in the synchronizer and I repeated what I had done previously and rotated the housing of the synchronizer around and observed that the position indicator did not move during the process.
No it doesn't. I found this out too. The oil pressure sensor is right next to it. It has a single wire ( I believe it's red color). The sensor itself is only about an inch in length and has a little screw in knob into the block right next to the cam synchronizer. If there's a bad connection like mine does, the oil pressure guage on the dash will flicker up and down. The red 'CHECK GUAGE' light will also pop up on the dash because of it. It might be a 19mm If I can remember. You can buy a new connector to the sensor and rewire it to fix that problem. Edit: as long as you continue to check your oil, relax. If you feel like changing the oil pump and screen, The oil pump is mechanically driven and can be found if you pull the oil pan down. I praise ford for this because Dodge trucks oil pump is located behind the harmonic balancer and requires the timing cover to be taken off. Screw that. Cheers
@@famus801 www.ecstuning.com/b-mtc-parts/steering-universal-flex-joint/32311150489~mtc/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7hpGP-nRdjPKE7uG8fmkW1AGqJ8WL3NodlTde3yQRrnkkq0FXcaN3kaAvVdEALw_wcB Here is one link, I believe they are sold out most places. There are some other options if you look around
Here is another option and I believe Sikky makes a part as well. www.garagistic.com/products/e36-poly-solid-steering-flex-coupler-m3-328?variant=39556772921443¤cy=USD&gbraid=0AAAAADpfsb6mp9n30Ix6tQ_sH3KILJrBH&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7jTQ8KbcIAqiNYirI3_5eWR_c9ziWhbqklcOWSvvOPGR4h0EWf1Ul0aAql-EALw_wcB
You should be using the alignment tool kit that ford makes for the synchronizer that’s why it wasn’t wanting to slide down easy. It’s within a specific degree range and the engine has to be wound to top dead center. Are you still having issues with it ?
Why does everyone recommend using a Ford part for replacement when the piece of crap part I'm having to replace was a Ford part? No way I'll use a Ford part.
because the other parts are the exact same design as ford, but made in China, and therefore have less production quality. Specifically the Dorman, Duralast, and other generic auto part store brands have a horrible shaft that comes out of the box with about as much play as a worn out (replacement needed) Ford one. Dumb to throw in a worse version of an already crap part.
Loved all of the old school stories when rebuilding the carbs as well as your reaction of pure automotive joy when the car actually started. At 65 I am rebuilding my 72 MGB that I have I owned since college and created a RU-vid channel. As you probably know the video shooting and editing makes every task 3x longer. I enjoyed your video and thanks for posting!
Depends on the issue, if it is squeaking the whole synchro needs to be swapped. If you're getting a code for the sensor then theoretically you could just replace that. It isn't a particularly expensive part and relatively easy swap so I personally would just say to swap the whole thing
We're still new and don't get a ton of views/engagement yet! Test drive went well, I really felt the difference in the stiffness of the ride, and for the price it's honestly one of the better bracing upgrades I've done. I went with the FM one so I could have the option to upgrade to their butterfly bracing in the future. If tearing apart your interior doesn't scare you then it's a worthwhile upgrade!
It was one of the few that had the lift size I needed for the rear within a reasonable price point. That with their customer service I am happy I went with them
