Welcome to The Eight Nine Garage. This channel is intended for mostly entertainment purposes, but also to be helpful at the same time. My intent is to help the DIY folks that want to save a few bucks, and mix that in with my several projects I work on.
Good vid man. I used to do my mustang transmission fills the hard way. Found that exact pump you have and they work great. Paid $6 for it! Can't beat it.
@SleazysGarage yeah, my truck will always need changed by age over mileage. Poor thing only gets used when I need some work out of it, or the weather is bad.
I have low mileage 95 town car. Have previously used EVERYTHING from motorcraft. From filters, fluids and all parts replaced. Never even considered using anything but. Until recently Any recommendations for a good filter? I do the oil change every 3 months religiously. Ive already changed (upgraded) my antifreeze brand as well as my transmission fluid. I still stick with the motorcraft plugs and wires. So far those perform great.
100% agree on the plugs and wires. Modular motors run horrible on anything else. As far as oil filters, I am a big fan of the WIX XP for these modulars. They have a silicone drainback valve. I've been using Purolator and WIX fuel filters as of late, and I've been pleased. I had a Fram on my old Ranger (installed by previous owner) come completely apart inside, and nothing was getting filtered.
I looked at a few tests/comparisons. I'm either going with wix or the Purolator boss for my next service. I'm currently using M-C 5w20 synthetic blend. Been running that since I bought the car many years ago. Is there any oil syn blends you think are better?
@markvitagliano27 after watching Todd at Project Farm's videos, I've been staying loyal to Kirkland 5W20 on my 4.6 in my truck. It's made by Warren for them, abs it is great quality. The Supertech oil at Walmart is also made by Warren, and performed right on par with Kirkland in his tests.
I have a hard time understading what you did to this piece, as it ain't clear, in order to fix it. I hear you saying the outside edge mushrooming out as compared to the rest of the surface. And here you lost me as I don't see you adjusting, bending or sanding anything.. Somehow the needle is winding smoother on your last ride. What did you do? By the way, your taking apart and explaining what you are trying to do is great!
Handy! Looks like it'd be really useful for tight places. I usually try to do the double nut method but actually having the nuts to do it with is for some reason always a problem.
It would work intermittently. I could make it work by hitting the motor itself, but it wouldn't last long. It just happened to turn when I filmed it. Changing the motor out fixed my issue, and it's working great now.
They are 94-95 spindles. You can use 96-98 spindles as well, but in a lot of cases (depending on your suspension setup) you'll need a bump steer kit. The tie rod location changed with the modular motor'd cars.
That's a really handy kit to have, probably going to scoop one up from your link. Just about all the clips in my doors are falling apart. Great job, probably feels great after this!
Started watching your foxbody vids cause I’m a foxbody guy however I started watching anything you put out given your ability to entertain . I look forward to your content be it washing machines or toolboxes. Keep ‘em coming and don’t change your approach
Thank you so much! The Fox Body's haven't had nearly as much love as I wish they would have this summer. Hopefully soon though! I appreciate your support, my friend!
Great video, quick and to the point. I just got a topdiag 200 pro that has a relay tester. Big disappointment. Topdiag has a usb c that powers the cable, I was hoping for some logic but nope. I was looking for a better relay tester and came across your vid. The tool is nice for a quick test to see if it clicks. From what I can tell the tester cannot perform the following: 1. Current of the coil(nice to know the difference between aftermarket and OEM relays). 2. Diode or resistor circuit for fly back voltage( plus it would be nice to know if circuit is intact). 3. The current capacity of pins 87 and 87a. (Sending a small amount of current and measuring the voltage drop across pin 30 and 87/87a can determine what current the relay can handle under higher loads with out excessive voltage drop. For an average DIYer this tool is great, it gives the car owner some insight. For anyone thats suppose to be a professional, its gonna cause problems. People will think that the relay is good when it could not be(see above). By removing the relay, one is tampering with the circuit. With tampering, a temporary unknown fix could be introduced and the real reason would be unknown(yes we can speculate). A real professional will make tests with the circuit intact to get a idea of whats happening. Removal of a relay is only done after one has a qualified reason to test it. Test methods of relays are: Testing coil resistance and resistance from 30 to 87/87A. Thanks for reading, Im off to design my own relay tester now.
Just a guess but that washer sure looks like a bearing shield that you often see in some bearings. It's hard to tell in the video if that piece was in the vicinity of the side of the bearing. Take a look at the new hub assembly and see if there is a shield in it. Looks like you also got really lucky getting the old hub out because some are rusted in solid. Good video.
@@89G my boy has emigrated to Australia. I bought his car from him. It's a Yaris. I made him buy it because I didn't want him driving his motorcycle in the bad weather here in the UK. Lots of little problems. The headlights are two different colours. The clutch is slipping and the exhaust slaps against the bottom of the car. Other than that, it's perfect. 😆
@@fredneedle123 LOL, I love your optimism. What year is yours? I really want to get new headlight housings for mine. They only last about 6 months when I refinish them.
I see you have torque specs here. I have a 2003 escape with a 3.0. The driver side trans mount has one vertical bolt for attachment. Also the lower front motor bolt is also vertical which is different than later models. I have looked everywhere to find torque specs but can’t seem to find them. Would you recommend a manual or a site where I can find this info please ?
I have the same problem just like yours. And idk why it was installed if it already has factory alarma. I guess extra protection. So it’s ok to remove it? I’m having the same problem and have the same ford company system alarm.
I used a dual fan from a ford freestar in my 88 bronco. I used the 40 bosch type relay that ford uses for the fans. That works best. I ran the engine with a 95 mustang ecu that controls high and low fans.
That's a nice sounding setup. What year was the Freestar? I'm looking to do my 97 F150. I currently have a 96 T-Bird/Cougar fan that I plan on using, but can be swayed if there's a better fit for it.
@@89G I don't recall what year but they only made that for a few years with few changes. Too many people using ford fans insist that you need a 60 amp constant duty relay. That isn't necessary, Just use what ford used. a standard 40 amp bosch relay. By the way, That bmw temperature switch is a good idea if you don't hac any ecu controls. But i would have used that switch to operate a high and low fan relay. That way if one fails it's a cheap part that you can get at any parts store. I get mine at the pick n pull.
Nah. Them are chineesium self driving cars. You ever seen how they drive them scooters and such over there? If you not going w/ flow you are hospital bound or morgue bout the same!😂
i just wanted to let you know. when you put on the belt pulley, you put the washer between the belt pulley and the bearing. the washer goes between the big nut and the pulley. if you dont move the washer it may cause the belt to not line up with the pulley correctly and either throw off the belt or cause the belt to rub on the edges and wear it out or break it. in no way am i putting you down or anything. this is a good video and thank you for making it. the reasion i know about this is because i did the same thing when i converted my 1988 f250 5.8L over to the 3G 130 amp alternator. i ripped apart 2 belts because of it.i just wanted to let you know ,before it may happen to you. them belts get expensive after a while. and when the second belt broke . i was stranded 30 miles from home
@awh5773 thank you for bringing that up. So far, so good. Just took it ok a 400 mile trip too. I will recheck though for sure! Thanks for the feedback too, much appreciated!
Thanks mate, backyard mechanic from Australia about to do the gasket on my 2010 Escape. Thanks for the video, clear instructions which should put me on the right track
Looks good. That blue looks like bright regatta blue but yours isn't metallic. My 89 GT originally was the bright regatta blue. But somebody had painted it purple which is obviously a bad paint job because it's peeling. I'm going back with the original color and I'm going to use the Spray Max system.
@@89G i bought this 89 gt back in April and it had been sitting for eight years. I did a head job and replaced the fuel pump and ecu, she's running but it needs an exhaust before i can get it stickered. I paid $550 for it.
