Welcome to my channel where I share my passion for repairs and restorations. I love everything that has an engine in it and I try my best to show you how I go about to carry out various work, repairs and restorations on a variety of vehicles and items with "small engines"
Some of the vehicles I own and have carried out work on are:
BMW: 2000 BMW E38 740i 2000 BMW E39 535i Auto 2001 BMW E39 530i Manual 2002 BMW E39 525d Manual 2003 BMW E39 530i Touring Auto
I am so glad i cannot tell you for finding your video as stress i have had over the last month has been horendous! No dramatics, my belt came off the pulleys, on further inspection one of the smaller pulleys was destroyed inside, was at the bottom of the car engine on the airodynamics plastic covering! Where it came from i did not know, because all the videos i watch on N47 engines did not look like mine! Your does i could shake your hand for ever, as know i know what i am supposed to order and do by watching this video
I got fake and find it to be harder like the blue is closer to red. Tells me poor consistency as well but everything I have used it on has no vibrated loose. With that said I would not use it on anything internal or that I can’t get to. For simple things I will, no need to throw away more money
Thanks for your excellent content! I have a couple of questions about getting ISTA+ software and hardware. I do plan to run ISTA+ on a PC laptop for portability. Any particular brand of PC and its configurations that you would suggest; in addition where I can acquire INSTA+ software to support BMW G30. Also any cables (i.e. ICOM, ethenet cable, etc.) required? Your comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have no doubt that this works for some batteries. It obviously did in this case. But it doesn't always work. I have two M12 XC6.0 batteries which failed to charge after very little use - one charged just a single time when new, then never again - and they both failed in two different standard M12 chargers. I tried charging them in a standard M12/M18 charger and they still error out. I do not have a high speed charger to try them in. In any case, thank you for posting this because it at least re-assures me that I'm not the only one to have extremely poor results with these batteries. The tools are awesome, but it's really unconscionable to use that quality as a vehicle to sell way too many expensive batteries than we should have to buy. So far, I'm 2 for 4 on them and very unhappy about it. My old Hitachi professional grade 18v stuff is kind of old school, but vastly superior to these modern Milwaukee tools.
Hi This is the third time my oil cooler gone bad . Mixing oil in water. What could be the main reason of this. My mechanic is unable to explain. Car is BMW 318D 2011 N47 ENGINE. CAR REG IS J888NUU. just done 124k mile. Can you help. I can call you if can sjare your contact. Thanks
@@davidga6272 You do as there are still going to be air bubbles. You can prime the fuel filter as you thought just as a precaution but if you run the 3min you will be fine without priming. I actually run it 2 times at 3 min after I assembled the engine as everything was totally empty. The air will go back into the tank through the diesel return lines. Hope this helps and makes things much clearer
I had to change many parts which you will see in the next FULL video and had to was the oily engine too. I would always choose this way as it is much easier for doing the job properly🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic "oily engine", was that a typo? ;), what did you mean? I work in a garage, so I'll be able to use my lift and my car will be right up in the air. So bearing that in mind, and on my car I'll only be changing the chains & tensioners (maybe pulleys and oil pump too), would you still choose to remove the engine? I'm thinking that the gearbox will be much easier (thus quicker) to remove than the engine, unless I'm missing something?
@@Assimilator1 yes, if you have a 2 post lift and you don't need to wash the engine or change sump gasket and valve cover gasket remove the gearbox in that case. Let me know how you get on if you decide to drop the gearbox and do it this way
@@TheKeenMechanic Will do 👍 . Although the valve cover has to come off, doesn't it? Not sure why that's relevant to the engine staying in though? And I think the sump has to come off for the oil pump chain at least? Can't I drop the sump with the engine in?
@@Assimilator1 most valve covers leak so if you need to change it and as sump will have to be dropped you better take the engine out. If you want to drop the sump but leave engine in you will have to drop the subrfame or may be steering rack too. The more I think the more I would advise you to take the engine out
A lot of manufacturers say you need to use different special tools. You will find sometimes you can come up and make your own special tools sometimes. I used the old timing sprockets to lock the flywheel and stop the crankshaft from spinning.🤝🏻
@@TheKeenMechanic Thanks for your reply. I still think the way from ISTA is better than lock flywheel. Because that special tool can lock inner of pulley directly. Otherwise, the torque should be transmitted to the flywheel through the crankshaft which poses a bad hidden danger. Also that special tool looks easy to DIY. Sorry about my broken English.
@@cpingt1584 your english is excellent. The compression of the engine and locking tool is more than sufficient to hold it in place safely, you are tightening 4 thinner bolts and not 1 big bolt in the centre. This way you don't apply as much force on the crank and flywheel.🤝🏻
Very helpful video how to remove it when it's on the car ... All the sensors can be unploged and you don't have to take any sersor out. Show us how to remove it when engine is inside the car. Thanks
You wish a 50ml bottle of of Loctite 243 is $17usd, more like close to $35+usd even back in 2019. I have both the genuine Loctite 242/243 and Locttlf 242/243 and I prefer the Loctff as it is easier to apply and is more accepting to oil contamination. I also attended Loctite's seminars back when I was a engineering student so I know most of Loctite adhesive product line and charcteristics.
Hi You don't need to remove the axle in order to replace the bushes. I removed mine as I was restoring it. You can press the bushes out with the tool I used in place when you drop the shocks and springs the axle will drop down
Thanks for the video, just out of interest do you know what your pressures were at idle before and after cleaning? Just done mine and drying it overnight before refitting tomorrow. 😊
Sorry, mine was not clogged up to the point that will cause issues. I didn't measure the pressure before and after as I had no faults. It was part of the preventative maintenance whilst I had the engine out🤝🏻
You can replace the oil sump but the whole front subframe needs to be dropped. That way you don't need to remove the gearbox or engine. If I have to do this again I would definitely take the engine out and service all gaskets uf the car has over 100k miles
@@samwarburton2672 Hi It will be a great job to clean manifold and ports. I have videos on both the removal and installation and how to properly clean the intake manifold and valve ports. When you have the manifold off try from above. It will be tight in my opinion so try from under the car if too hard from above. I took my engine out so it was much easier that way
@@samwarburton2672If you want to do it from the top, depending on the model BMW it will be necessary to take off the intake and it will be below the starter. This guy shows you how ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tioA82xYxOI.html ?si=khkj-VfxnLOBBwWN @samwarburton2672
Glad you enjoyed it buddy. I try to make the videos detailed and as short as possible not to bore people. As my videos are repair tutorials and not just "rev battle" enterntaining type videos I have to cover all steps😉. Hope you get yours sorted
Thanks for the video sir, most patio cleaners have sodium hypochlorite as an ingredient which normally rusts metal like you wouldn't believe so not sure about this solution
@@TheKeenMechanic Fair enough if it's been tried and tested, hard to prove I guess without cutting it up years later but maybe ok as a one off or as it only needs doing infrequently. Thanks for reply sir 👍
@@Infj-62 I got the idea from a scientist who tested both chemicals on stainless steel and had no reaction. Depending on the grade and purity if the stainless sometimes it might discolour it but if well rinsed it will not corrode the metal. I have personally tested it many times and no issues
Before at cold start it would sound like crap and rough idle. Then driving it went away. Car drove smooth. Once i changed the spark plugs and oil it started act up. Still had those misfires though prior.
@@TheKeenMechanic so i fixed the issue. Im only getting p052B now. Only thing is at cold start i get surging. After a few seconds it goes away and car drives perfect. No issues.. Doesn’t lag or anything. I checked the cam sensors and both were gunked up. Im thinking maybe they are both bad. Would that cause that code?
I have a 2011 f10. At idle it’s similar to yours. Sounds like it wants to turn off. Does sometimes. Turns back on idling normal then starts misfiring again. Also get the same warning message.
According to the manufacturer the filter must be changed every 90000 km.... so it is not a time limit... don't waste things without a real need.... Nice video btw.
Thanks. The filters are very cheap so I don't mind changing them more regularly. Sometimes depending on where people live it can have massive difference on the amount of contamination you can have in your filter. For example my neighbour changes his air filter every time he changes the oil and the filter is always clogged up with leaves and dirt as he lives in the forest. Some people who live in cities have to change them less frequently but I think 90k is a lot
I would remove the gaskets if you can if you are going to reuse them. If you can afford replace all gaskets and seals after the cleaning. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
People flush them with a machine which forces the oil out but the manufacturer of these boxes ZF don't approve this method. Other way to get more oil is to remove the valve body, this will get a bit more oil but not the oil from the torque converter. The best and easiest and recommended way is to do an oil and filter change as I have shown and then drive for a while then do it again. There are debates on every method mentioned but this has worked for me for years and is the easiest way🤝🏻
I didn't see you drain gearbox oil. Also no oil came from it once you removed the shaft, if your oil level was correct it would have, is it possible the cause of the noise is a lack of or insufficient oil in the gearbox?
Hi Oil came out but wasn't captured in the footage. I have since this rebuilt the gearbox and was worn bearings (full process recorded and will edit when I get some spare time). Thanks for your message
⚠️ Warning ⚠️ only few hours ago I nearly died. Changing starter motor front of car jack up put on axle stands ect underneath car undoing starter motor must have touched wires car went to start itself pushing itself forward off axle stands ect because it was in gear 😮 car came down on me . Mistake to learn from was having car in gear and other was not disconnecting battery . I was very lucky I was using big trolley jack that bent but still keep car up a bit till help came axle stands fell sideways no help. Be very careful and learn from my mistakes I'm sore but I was very lucky
@TheKeenMechanic definitely was bad mistake if I Hadn't big trolley jack it went on it side but still keep car up bit if was just axle stands car would have landed full weight on me . Luckily it just pin me down with bit pressure still have bit pain in chest but not much
Anyone know if the 2.0tdi have the same reading as the 1.6 tdi I checked my injector resistance and getting 0.7 ohms on all 4 Car runs for a few mins the cuts off I have code for open circuit on all 4 injectors any help appreciated
Well, nice to see someone with this type of videos. I went , last year, to aa mechanic to change the old pulley with Corteco..now it started to vibrate and sounds like an airplane. 200$ down the drain...now, I ve bought Contitech pulley ( I ve been using Conti/Skf since forever). I ve got all the tools ( ordered the angle calibrator today) but I didnt wanted to do it myself last year...now, I wont change or go.to w mechanic only for harder jobs..changed the clutch, distribution last month ~3500$......I own an X1 N47N. Will see monday how it turns out after changing the crank pulley
I am glad to see that people are finding my channel and are enjoying my videos. This is the reason I am recording these so people can do it themselves and do it right. I have had comments from others here on this video mentioning Corteco being an OEM but to be honest with most things now being made in China I just stick with Febi as I have been using them for over 15 years and never let me down. The Febi pulley is very well balanced and it will last.🤝🏻
Doing this now on a 2012 W166 with the later version turbo which has a solid metal coolant line that is stuck hard from grime/age requiring excess force to remove, best order a replacement in before commencing the job P/N A6422030602. Also the downpipe is one big piece which makes removing the turbo a real PITA. Recommend removing the engine bay rear access panels and wiper cowl cover, still a real PITA job. Thanks for the vid, would be near impossible without it.
