Especially with 35 mm B&W film, a mistake people make is using rinse water that is the wrong temperature. That's why I have a gallon jug of water at room temperature and not cold water directly from the tap. The temperature shock to the film by too cold/hot a water/rinse bath will cause the emulsion of the film to slightly crinkle which increases the micro-grain size making the pictures appear slightly lumpy. Some people like the grainy look, but if you want a smooth B&W transition of tones, same temperature wash is preferred.
Nice shots. Myself I own a Retina IIIc and just acquired a Retina IIIS. Learning to use the latter which appears unused & mint. I think where panchro film really shines are pictures of older city centers w their older architecture & lines. If you get to an older town or city, try shooting there.
I have purchased 3 vintage cameras on EBay. The focus is frozen on one and out of adjustment on the other 2. All require being sent for a CLA and/or repairs.
As a bit of insurance or without having to replace the light seal, I cut some black tape and place it over the slot after I remove the dark slide. I keep one or two taped to the back of the magazine to use as spares if they lose adhesion. Works like a charm and I've never had light leaks even with very old backs.
Fixer doesn't actually touch the image at all All it does is wash away the excess undeveloped material that was never exposed to light which prevents the non-image portions from becoming dark. If your entire film is black it's because you didn't fix properly and not because it's over developed at least typically. And this is assuming that it was exposed properly.
Shooting “wide open” is not all its cracked up to be. Aside from the “no lens is sharp wide open” trope, when your shoot at f/2.8, no aperture blades are being used. Stop down by, say, one stop, and you’ll have much better results.
It greatly helps to block the internal flare of Yashicamats (since they're shiny black inside) by flocking that with black mat material (it's a tedious process, but worth it). Furthermore, a lens hood should always be used. It will even more enhance the resolution of the photos. Also avoid shooting into the sun or high contrast situations. The lens might need an internal cleaning as well, if you can find a local used camera repairman. If you're using that selenium meter on the camera, I find I have to expose films at half their advertised speed (eg, HP-5 at 200).
This channel is a great example of the new wave of film photographers who buy all the gear before learning how to actually take a decent picture. GAS disease. ATGANI
For the optional chemicals, do not bother buying, but use household items: -Stop bath, if you absolutely have to use one, spirit vinegar mixed with water (1:1) works great and is cheap as chips. -Wetting agent: use rinsing aid for dishwasher. A drop in the last water does marvels for a fraction of the price of the photo-branded stuff. If you process infrequently and/or in small quantities, try as much as possible to use chemicals with long (or near unlimited) shelf lives, and look more toward "old fashioned" chemistry,. Kodak HC-110 or Rodinal (especially) are great liquid concentrates known to last long (Rodinal even forever.... I have a 12 years old half bottle that looks like cola with crystals on the bottom, and it works as new) Dry chemicals in small portions are also a good option. D-76 and ID-11 are excellent developers with very long (indefinite for ID-11) shelf life. Once diluted though, they go off in a few weeks or months. Given their price, it may not be economically smart for developing 2 films every 3 months, but they provide better grain control than Rodinal on fast films. For fixers, stick to traditional sodium thiosulfate (can be obtained from pool supply or aquarium stores) in water, or a proper "rapid" ammonium thiosulfate fixer, but in powder form. Adofix P is a personal favorite. Easy to mix whenever I need a fresh batch (mixing temp is within normal photographic dev range), unopened bags last forever and cheap. If you stick to Rodinal/Adofix combo, 30 € (15€ for 500ml of Rodinal, and 5x 3€ pack of Adofix for 1l) of chemistry may well last you years. :)
The Olympus Trip probably did more to popularise the 35mm film format with the general public than any other camera, in the U.K. at least. Before this, the format was mainly limited to pro's and fairly serious enthusiasts, with the mass market being dominated by instamatics. The Trip, with it's ease of use and excellent adverts featuring David Bailey and George Cole, changed all that. My father had one of these, which I borrowed at times, also using a XA2 and OM10, which belonged to my brothers. When the time came for me to buy my own cameras, initially second hand, I started with an OM-10, upgrading to an OM-2 Spot Program and OM-1. When the time came to move into mainly digital photography I stayed with Olympus, first an E-330, then an OMD E-M10ii. I know my next camera will be an Olympus or OM System, as they are now being rebranded😎
Ask yourself why you want to do photography. You're obviously not a very visually curious person. You don't see the magic in the mundane. You don't love looking at things. You make excuses for giving up. Be like a kid and take delight in the world around you.
Digital thermometer.........never buy it.......... a waste of money. A cheap alcohol thermometer will do. Buy it at the pots and pans shop; costs 75 cents. No black bottle is needed. Any bottle will do as long as you store it in a closet in the dark. No need to heat the the developng.real: this is a 100% bull shit Over 60 ears developing tons of film. Paterson, Johnson. Jobo, Kindermann, LPL never told to ue a hair dryer.
Not using the stopbath ? Is like using the handbrake, when driving a 100 miles/h. I am getting sick of the reviews done by the young generation. I will tell: ILFORD, AGFA, ORWO, ADOX, FOMA, FORTE, BERGGER, MACO, FERRANIA, ROLLEI, KODAK, FUJ, GEVAERT, ANSCO, KONICA, POLAROI, CINESTILL, ARISTA, LOMOGRAPHY and 3M that Gart Murphy thinks he is doing well by not using a stopbath. Next year he will skip the fixing bath. The year thereafter he will develope his B&W films without any chemicals and water. The results can only be seen by the true professional photographers. Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam - The Netherlands.
