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Good video! My car is 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS, currently at 125k. About a month ago it wasn’t blowing cold air so I decided to use one of this refrigerant cans and accidentally put to much in the system. Had to take it to a shop so they evacuated the whole system, changed the expansion valve and refilled it. It didn’t seem to work cause a/c was working but not getting cold air as it should. Now I’m having this issue with my RPM at idle when the A/C is on. It also have this little noise coming from the blower motor, but it only seems to happen when idling. Car runs smooth, but at red lights or stop signs RPM goes down and it becomes shaky and then this noise from the blower motor comes out (it only happens when a/c is on). Also replaced the throttle body, coils, spark plugs, MAP sensor, PCV valve because of this rough idle, and right now IDK what else to do with this. Dealer was asking for $550 for just a diagnosis and I don’t trust them anymore, so I’m running out of ideas.
Only use seafoam a few days before you do an oil change. Seafoam will cause the viscosity in oil to break down and will not be able to lubricate your engine and likely result in damage.
This is a good video but sadly after Test for Echo he went back to his old “habits” per se. Steve Smith seemed to have taken Fred’s teachings more to heart.
I have the same one. It fires the 1st nail fine but the steel striker or slide doesn't retract back up into the cylinder allowing the brad nail to move forward in track. I clean everything out, no go. Stumped!
Same situation as most comments, mine sat unused for years and stopped firing. I followed your advice and cleaned it out and gave it a generous amount of oil. I just wanted to add that I used to oil I had at hand, Google told me hydraulic oil could be a good substitute for air tools. I happen to have hydraulic oil in my garage, there were a few other suggested substitutes. Thanks for the help! Happy building everyone!
Looks like my piston bumper disintegrated, because it will fire one nail after reassembly, but then dry fires again because the piston will not return back up.
Having the same issues currently. Started with stalling while in park, then to stalling at stop lights. Then finally rpms would sit at 0 while driving. Check engine light finally came on and threw the p0335 crankshaft sensor. Putting in a new one tomorrow. Thanks to this video. Hope it works.
Bonjour. Merci pour le vidéo de votre Mistral 16. Comme la vidéo a 5 ans, je me risque à vous demander si vous l’avez toujours. Je viens d’en acheter un semblable et tout comme vous au début, on essai de comprendre son montage et l’utilisation de chaque pièces d’accastillage. Bref si vous voulez m’aider à assembler le tout au printemps, ça serait très apprécié. Sinon, je suis aussi preneur pour quelques trucs ici et là que vous pourriez me partager sur la façon que vous avez préparé le vôtre. Je vous laisse mon adresse courriel pour me joindre : stephane.christine@bell.net Au plaisir !
My friend has been pleased with this vacuum. I put it together and other than one of the wheels coming back out(which I had a bit of difficulty with) ru-vid.comUgkxnBiz5H40H0BTcRcPDEHZkcV2smSjfUD0 it was easy to assemble. It's worked well and the large size has been handy for vacuuming up sawdust around my friend's tablesaw. The wheels and handle make it simple to move around, so the bulky size isn't overly a negative, unless you're lacking on space. It has a bag that can be used to collect the dust, though it doesn't have to be used. It works perfectly great without it and it is an added expense when replacing the bag. If vacumming water, just leave it out. It comes with various attachments, which are handy. A durable bag attaches to the handle to hold them and I love this feature. It has good power and it's a nice option for a shop vac.
For the love if Godz PLEASE USE BACTINE *NUMBING* SPRAY & ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENT or atleast something like clove oil (which doesnt just work as an antiseptic, it can kill staph too.)
Same issue here, specifically the right-most latch never stays down. Moved the whole kit up like you did which didn’t make a difference. Even pushing that latch as far as it can go with a tool it will never stay in place. Any ideas
It might be the structural support which is slightly crooked. See if you can push it back into a straight bar if there's any bend to it. That might give you the extra eighth of an inch to need.
@@cncbuss1 Thanks for the reply! I am actually thinking it may be that the wire is too long/stretched out because the connected mechanism appears to be frozen. Is that a possibility? I think my next step may be to replace the wire which seem like a pain in the ass
Thanks very much for posting. It was your title (FIX ZERO RPM WITH ENGINE RUNNING) that I was finally able to identify what my issue was. I changed the Crank Sensor and its been running perfectly for a week now. No more zero rpm or difficult starts
Yeah- just my luck. Disappointed is a good way to describe it. VS was in business for over 85 years then goes belly under a few years after I decide to quit my office job and go full-time into the industry with their machines. Thanks for sharing your comment nonetheless. Cheers from Montreal, Canada!
I'm not sure if you're still on this. Hey anyway. My problem is the drive blade doesn't retract once a nail fires it then just shoots blanks? I'll clean and oil more tomorrow. It does technically fire after resetting the drive blade. Though I did find small plastic pieces in the inside side of the exhaust plate, not sure if it has anything to do with parts. Any ideas? I'm also looking for parts websites, if you good ones? Thanks
I would start with lubricating it. You'll be surprised how much better it will fire with all the parts sliding smoothly like they're supposed to. Let me know how it turns out.
Hi my 2013 Elantra sometimes goes to 0 RPM sometimes when stopped at signal and doesn't move when I press the gas pedal as if it's in limp mode. Do you know what might be the issue?
In my case, it was a faulty crank case sensor which was causing the engine's computer to send no signal to the rpm gauge. This might be the same problem occurring in your vehicle. Best of luck!
@@everythingunwrapped well, in my case it cost the price of the part and that was it. I figured out how to change it on my own (watching a RU-vid video )and it made my problem go away. Less than $100 if memory serves correctly.
Car turns on fine. While the car is in motion the car will loose revs while foot is on gas pedal. I have to step off the gas pedal and then step on it again and it picks up again.
Je projettes de m'acheter un mistral 16 cabin. Je voudrais savoir s'il est dangereux de chavirer lorsque la dérive est remontée? Parce que sur les petits dériveur léger habituellement fallait toujours remonter la dérive aux vents arrières. La dérive sert-elle de poids pour stabiliser le bateau un peu comme un quillard ?
C'est une dérive en acier sur le mien alors oui, ca sert à ajouter du poids et de la stabilité. Avec la dérive remonté, le risque de chavirer augmente.
@@cncbuss1 donc c'est bien vrai que la dérive doit être toujours descendue même au vent arrière. Contrairement à un dériveur léger, tu doit remonter la dérive au vent arrière sinon tu chavire. C'est mieux le tiens dans ce cas.👍🍺😉
You should take this down, This video is trash, everyone has pointed out the same thing, you're using the stuff thats supposed to stay tacky and not approved for fuel to do this test. Pissing in peoples faces and calling it champagne.
I'm 6 minutes into this video and I still don't know how to use it to clean the carpet. You show how to clean the hose, how about showing how to get hose dirty?
it’s simpler than you may think Fred. No need to get anxious. You simply turn the machine on, and the suction hose starts up right away. Pull the trigger and the jet nozzle sprays liquid detergent onto the fabric just in front of the vacuum pick up. Cheers!
The gray in the red definitely do not work. In less than 24 hours they had both lost their integrity and become wavy little strands of what used to be a gasket. However the Permatex blue gasket sealer does work in conjunction with a gasket, as in if your gasket is old or is aftermarket and doesn't quite fit. However, Permatex is the wrong name for it because it does eventually fail.... I used it because I have a 40-year-old motorcycle and I needed my carbs to work while the gaskets were on order.... it did its job for about 3 weeks before I got another small leak indicating that I had forgotten to order the gaskets at all LOL. Don't get caught up and get the right gaskets. But that stuff does work well in a pinch.... Permatex in the orange tube it'll say fuel resistant and when you open it you'll realize for no good reason at all it's blue. Like a translucent blue and it stays that way it's weird. It never becomes a gasket it stays tacky
