Welcome to Karmieh Design. Join me in the exciting world of toy design, digital sculpting, 3D modeling, and rendering tools. Let's dive into the fun of creating toys, bringing virtual sculptures to life, and mastering 3D design software.
🔷 Hands-On Learning: Explore digital sculpting and 3D modeling with easy-to-follow tutorials. Whether you're a beginner or advanced, I've got you covered.
🔷 Creative Showcase: Watch concepts come alive as we craft detailed 3D models. Get inspired by the magic of creation.
🔷 Software Made Simple: Navigate rendering tools and software effortlessly. Stay up-to-date with practical tips and tricks.
🔷 Behind the Scenes: Peek into our design studio. Experience my creative process, challenges, and aha moments.
Hit subscribe, turn on notifications, and be a part of Karmieh Toy Design. Let's enjoy sculpting dreams and bringing ideas to life, one pixel at a time! 🎨🔗
Yes, well one of the reasons is that I am not great at moulding or casting, and to get good casts you need a pressure pot, and you need to know what you are doing. I used to cast and mould and it takes a lot of time to learn to cast clean pieces and at one point I decided that I want to be a good designer and sculptor and that I can't do everything, so I focused on what I can do best, most of the pieces I do in-house are low runa or one offs so it works out ok for me.
Yes! And this is a medium print length, it can go up to 100 hours, but it's done in stages, so each build plate would take 20 hours and sometimes a piece would be split into five separate build plates.
@@BluelineDesignStudio Not more than a minute, but usually I will fill the holes before I cute the figures, so after the holes are filled and I hit the with the lamp it sits in the booth for 3 minutes. Sometimes I forget or I miss a whole or I find and error in the piece while sanding I'll fill that and then try to hit with the lamp a bit longer. hope this helps.
Such an amazing work! 👏 Just a question, how long do the sanding pieces last? I tried with some 200 grain and I don't know if it because of the resin but it only sands for maybe 30min,then it becomes clumped with resin and I have to change it 😅
Thank you so much for the kind words. First of all 200 is way too coarse, I always start with 400 maybe 320, I used to start with 200 when I printed in FDM cause resin is a "soft" material and you want to clean that surface without adding scratch marks, as for the gunk, well if you wet sand it will last longer cause the resin get cleaned up, if you dry sand then it's normal to get clumped pretty fast.
Hi Oasim, great work and thanks for being inspirational! I have a question. For mass production, do u print all of that part using your 3d printer or with resin casting? Thank you
Thank you so much for the kind words! It really depends on the run, if I decide to make a limited edition of 15-25 pieces I'll 3d print all of them, if I make runs of 30+ then I always hire a casting studio to help produce them, sometimes I'll have them cast in blanks and hand paint each one, it really depends on the project.
Hi Oasim! Thanks for this video! I just had a question about the stitch brush - Is this good for 3d printing as well? Or will it have some gaps between the modeling so will it be hard to print? Thanks so much for your work
Hey, thank you so much for the kind words! For 3d printing, make sure to make them a bit larger, exaggerate them, cause you have to keep mind that all renders get softned. Once you have them layer out merge them with the mesh they are sitting on, dynamesh them and you should be ready to decimate and send to printer. I hope this helps
@@user-cu1dc5mz1m Yes, just make sure the stitching touches the model so there is no gap between the stitching and the model, this way when you Dynamesh you get clean results.
for anyone reading this: I went to Art Center for product design, and these are the classes that I paid tens of thousands of dollars for. This is an incredible resource.
Helps reveal rough spots, easier to catch them with a light prime. I take a similar approach, his is way more professional tho, I’m definitely taking notes. 📝
Thank you @emmamarx9284 Yes it is exactly that. But on top of that, it also acts as a filler, if you have seen my primer video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hfXSz8zFFUU.htmlsi=p9havzTtD-1V7dMd So it's a double advantage, I hope it helps!
Are you still using VR sculpting? Seems like blocking out in this software then taking it into zbrush for detailing and polishing could be a very effective workflow for hardsurface designs. Not sure how much work it is to make the mesh usable in Zbrush though, does zremesher do a good job of it?
I wanted to, I tried, I did a couple of sculpts and it's an amazing tool for sculpting, but where the technology was back them I had 3 cables going from the headset, satlites trackers in the room, it became too cumbersome, when I moved to a new studio I didn't want to go into the hassle into setting it up, and now I finally did set it back up and I want to do another project to see if I can call it quits or maybe not. As fr the mesh that you get out of Medium, It's pretty clean and if you work with layers and you make sure to split them keeping in mind that you need to zeremesh, the workflow is not bad at all. If you are a concept artist and you want to create, spaceships, robots and machinery, it's a great tool because everything feels more fluid than working in ZBrush.
Sure, 3d printer, UV curing booth, I use formlabs Form 3+ and cure from formlabs as well, you need sanding paper, scratch pads and paint I use paint from Vallejo, mr.hobby and Tamiya and if you a sander you can Dremel or a linear sander, the one I have is from a company called proxxon. Hope this helps
Thank you, Well the item is sculpted by me and if you would like to 3d print your own you can check out my patreon www.patreon.com/karmieh/shop/rick-oconnell-mummy-178759?source=storefront But if you would like to order one custom piece you can check out my store www.karmieh.com/products/rick-oconnell-custom-made-to-order-scale-figure?_pos=1&_sid=760836a25&_ss=r As for the paints, I am using MrHobby, Tamiya and vallejo paints, for the sealer I am using Vallejo sealer and this piece was 3d printed on the Form 3+, I hope this helps!
thank q so much for your respond can u do a video on next topic please i'm a digital artist and starting with 3D modeling around 1year right now i want to start with a 3D print cus it good for future it what my ( pov ) but it really hard to say in my country there are no interest at all of 3D printer they only use fdm printer to help a work like in architecture work im really suck and it hard to order a machine and find a airbrush a color or sth that relate with process im interesting with doing a figure i hope i can see clearly what machine should i first start ? which store that i can order and deliver to my country and which acessories should i get after i a get a machine
@@Minhminh-nc8kj am planning to do more videos about the tools that I use, I have uploaded one about primers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hfXSz8zFFUU.htmlsi=9qhtk2nWi-u5nrtw