I have a 2005 Sequoia Limited 2WD (225,000 miles) with air ride suspension and of course it doesn't hold air in the rear bags. I was thinking about doing a 2.5" suspension lift and delete the entire air ride suspension but then I saw your video. Is it cheaper to just replace the bags and rear shock and just add the 3"spacer lift? Do the 3"spacer lift change the suspension geometry enough to lower ride quality for a city dwelling Sequoia? I can get a 2.5 suspension lift for $1,400 and install myself or is it cheaper to do it your way? Beautiful transformation btw. Where did you get the red air bags for the rear and what part number d8d you go with that was compatible?
If im honest ive been daily driving the sequoia and it rides okay, lift looks good and cheap upgrade, but if its within your budget to buy an actual lift i would go tjat route instead. Im cheap and dont care much about ride quality or little clunks here and there.
Something that may be throwing off the hall sensor for your cam as it heats up is the fact you are using the stock metal cam gears. With there being no break in the surface in front of the hall sensor for the cam gears specifically and the magnet flush with the back of the gear, I've heard it can transfer the magnetism through the metal, confusing the ecu where it is at and causing bad trigger signal. Just a thought since you were dealing with gap issues. If you get the aluminum adjustable gears, you shouldn't have that issue.
Understandable, its actually my crank sensor that miss reads though, and its due to the actual bracket moving from the engine i gotta find a stiffer or thicker aluminum bracket that wont flex or move with the heat or engine itself
www.amazon.com/dp/B072BQJ63D/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_2PSSN88VRMN0YXNNG5Y9?linkCode=ml2&tag=luisarreaza-20 Had to modify the ends of the grips and bar if needed
Im not sure honestly, but i might have to move it because the signal is not strong, but when its connected to my phone maps gets signal through my phone and not the gps i installed
@@tommyhajimoto6968 allowing full time 12v supply, not allowing any dips in voltage.. you can do your settup however you would like. You can leave your oem stuff and wiring.
@@-LFATVawesome. I have some CNC cut CPS gears on the way to replace my broken one and I just wanted to check that it was worth pressing it back together at all
How about Sirius satellite Radio, I purchased a Fisher system for my Camry, back when I had my Supra I had a double dinn Jensen. I don't even use the radio, it's always on Sirius radio. Those flat screen double dinn radio's really do set the interior of these MK III's off nicely
Hey man so I have a ‘92 sc400. When I turn it on it surges. When I come to a complete stop the battery dies. Do you think it’s the alternator not working and just taking charge? I would have to jump it each time then it would happen again.
Hey I really loved the video and I want to do the exact same upgrade to my taco! Can you let me know the part # of those control arms? I'm having a tough time finding them. Thanks!
@@nativeflight7079 oh. Just what people talk about on the facebook tacoma groups honestly, search lifts and people show pictures and what not and just buy what you like or want
Maybe when the engine warmed up the Crank & Cam sensors/bracket would experience thermal expansion and moved the sensors far enough away to stop picking up the teeth. Then you had to wait for those bracket to cool enough to pickup the teeth.
Yes this is definitely a factor i learned in other videos i posted, plus the brackets design due to normal engine movement also can cause missed trigger readings depending on engine movement
@@remkye it’s not heat its movement of the crank sensor bracket due to engine natural movement, i get faulty readings and or readings jump or miss a tooth due to the movement
@-LFATV have you tried the magnet mod from driftmotion? I understand the bracket is moving but maybe this might help you keep the signal. They also make an aftermarket CPS
Looks good! I can’t wait to lift my sequoia! Did you ever adjust the positive camber or did you leave it as is? Mine has positive camber and I hate how it looks!
tbh if you’re not wheeling it hard, this works just fine. did the same on mine. but i wheeled it hard and now i’m replacing everything with bilstein/ome/dobs lol
@@-LFATV I just got rid of a 72k mile 87 turbo hardtop car, if I get another it will be 89+ again, but I've owned 24 since 1998, I don't think I need anymore, I have an aristo swapped 2jzgte vvti single turbo gs300 right now!
Info on display? Next time you do a video like this describe and show any interesting items on the cars. Also, pick a few owners and ask them some general overview question about their car, Such as, how long they've had the car, what got them into supras, a quick description of what they did to the car, how long was the project, any uniqueness of their car or build, etc. Would make for good interested vid.
@@-LFATVMy dad's factory Turbo 7M lost it's power steering, some kind of electrical solenoid on the power steering rack went bad and there was no more in Toyota stock system. He found two on line, but they were asking six & seven hundred dollars for them.
Pro tip. If you’re gonna hit a castle nut with a hammer, turn it upside down and then run it down to where it’s almost flush. That way you don’t bend the tabs of the nut.
I left FB groups because it seem all people know how to do is call it a "tree"and harass people for not using high $$ parts. Sure, OEM is great, but you did what you did and used good sense.
