Oh how lovely. Earrape and fine font captions with no voice overdubbed narration during the demonstrative informational segment of the video, for those viewers who have impaired vision and might be watching somewhere they can't just put on their glasses. *Nice*.
Fitting rectangular parts into rectangular recesses is a problem even in far more accurate metal CNC machining because the round tool can't leave sharp right-angle internal corners. To get around this cheaply (without the need for high precision tolerancing) we use undercuts. Essentially you machine out the corners of the rectangular recess, so that the external part corners have nothing that will interfere with them. You could introduce undercuts or internal corner relief into your designs too.
I would love to see printers that can mix melted filament the way inkjets mix ink, so full color CMYKW (we need additional color for white as it can't be inferred from the paper) 3d prints could be done.
Inkjet printers do not mix the color. Our brain does that. If you look at the paper with a microscope, you can see many small individual dots of color in cyan, magenta, yellow or black. Our eyes just can't resolve the individual dots and so our brain mixes the colors and creates the impression of these many colors that don't actually exist on the paper. There are full-color printers such as those from Mimaki. As far as I know, a layer of resin is applied and cured in one go. Then ink is applied on top of the cured resin as with an inkjet printer. You can see the result in the latest video from 3D Printing Nerd, for example.
You should design and get PCBway to make you an "Operation" PCB like the seventies toy that lights up the patients eyes/nose and sounds a buzzer if you touch the sides while trying to remove the organs from him with a pair of metal tweezers. For extra points model the patient on yourself instead of the cartoon figure originally used.
If you're interested in looking at more filament switcher addons, there's an interesting one called Tradrack by Annex Engineering that I'd love to see an in-depth look at. It's open-source like the ERCF, but with a design philosophy centered around making it easy to add more colors; even the small builds are eight or nine colors, and it can supposedly go quite large. It's pretty new so I haven't seen much about it yet.
I honestly love PCBways sponsorships. So far, every one of those sponsored videos across different RU-vidrs are really creative, and they mostly really benefitted from the Sponsor.
I've had 3 failures on my MMU during printing, none were the fault of the MMU itself: 1. Idler tension too low (I had failed to get the bolt on the right/5 end engaged, so it could't load filaments 4 and 5 because no pressure on the filament. 2. Extruder tension too high (had cranked the screws too much by accident) 3. Old brittle filament broke in the reverse bowden between the MMU and the extruder caused it to get into confused state and spool join was off so it politely waited for me to load new filament. Other than that, rock solid. For loading I have found that printables model 829946 "MMU3 Loading Fork MK2" is super nice. It slots into the buffer and completes the path around the cassette wheel so you can load all the way to the MMU without having to fiddle with the cassette. I can load all 5 filaments in about 2 minutes that way versus 5+ dealing with the cassettes and tubing tangles. Edit: Also on the space front: Something like a Sunlu Filadryer X4 saves a ton of space and you can run your PTFE direct from it to the buffer, that gets you 4 rolls, and your 5th and just sit on top or in a single roll dryer or whatever. It's a little more space than an EMS but not by much.
2:45 "and... you paint things" But why don't you just... paint things? Why all these elaborate solutions to a problem that has already been solved by a $1 paint brush? Why don't they "just" create a tool where the bit you paint in the slicer gets converted into a separate print that with some convenient way to mount it to the original print. Also: why not "just" have two nozzels so one can print while the other is preparing the next filament? Or just have four nozzles that the stored in a holder and are picked up as needed, the same way that.. uhm.... every other CNC machining tool does. Perhaps I should say: why does 3D printing want to re-invent the wheel all the time?
My MMU three is pretty reliable. I do 60 hour prints two or three times a week with five colors and go a week or two without any errors over the last two months none of the errors have resulted in loss of a print.
Nice. Are you printing on a Mk4 printer? Prusa had some trouble to get the MMU3 to work on that model, but it seems they solved whatever the problem was.
For me, with very occasional multi-color, the AMS is the winner. Yes more waste, but filament is cheap. Setting up the MMU, the space and time needed getting the MMU ready is just too much. The XL is fine if you will pay $5000+ but even then, its not enclosed, which is pretty embarrassing for a $5000 printer.
Ironic how you are using spools of Bambu Lab filament to show us how wacky the MMU is. I had the MMU1 and MMU2 and they never worked. My AMS eliminates the need for one now.
You should look into the Annex engineering tradrack mmu. Like the ERCF it can run on any klipper printer. But it is way cheaper as it only has one set of extruder gears. I think people said like $4 per extra color vs $16.
The MMU2 was a piece of junk. I finally removed it from the Mk3S that I have. When it would run into a problem, the feedback was worthless to understand what to do to get it going again. It was almost impossible to complete a print with it. I was able to complete a few prints and that is it.
4:18 No, they are all retracting the filament. You talk about cleaning out the nozzle. There, bambu cut‘s the filament and pushes out (maybe) more in a much faster process. To prove the difference you would need to measure the purge tower (and poop) of both.
@@kimmotoivanen I also dont want to deal with the headache of IDEX printers. I also print with a kobra max and theres no IDEX that is similar in size that doesn't cost a fortune
@@lonewolfsstuck Chameleon Mk4 4-filament switcher could be installed to current (they say: any) printer. Not sure how it (or any MMU / slicer in general) handles temperature change and proper purging when switching between PLA and PETG... If board has connections for second hotend and extruder (not many have :/ ) Makertech dual switching hotend would be better choice
Your videos and the girl at TADA 3D Printing are both covering the MMU3 install and setup and together your channel and hers have been very valuable. The Prusa MMU3 is quite a design and engineering marvel. It's not nearly as easy or plug n play as an AMS and AMS light, but it's very cool to see the different design.
Can you bypass the MMU and feed TPU directly into the head of the MK4 after the MMU has been installed once? I have heard different answers to this question.
The easiest way to do that is: --> go in to the hardware menu, disable MMU --> remove PTFE tube from the extruder Now it's basically a standard Prusa Mk4 and works exactly as before.
As someone who struggled with the MMU2, it's nice to see that they managed to get it sorted. The mechanism looks the same, and it's not clear to me what has changed. My MMU2 kept jamming when retracting filament, regardless of how many cooling moves it did. I believe the root cause was the E3D V6 simply not being designed for it, filament tips coming out too wide. I would expect that the nextruder was designed with this consideration, but I wonder what they did to make MMU3 work with the MK3S?
It uses wider PTFE tubing. Even if the MK3 extruder made the "fat tip" it won't jam in the tube like the tight MMU2 did. It's noticeably easier to load and unload as well.
I'm basically sold on getting a MK4 with an MMU3. I've been thinking a lot about getting a Bambu Lab printer, as I want a good and fast printer. But i've slowly realized that I would love to be able to multi color printing, but my main type of prints are single color, and I just want a super reliable printer, that is easily repairable. And from what I can gather is the Prusa printer is simply the king here. I can also see that most print farms rock Prusa printers, as they are simply more stable. Cannot wait to be able to switch from a Creality CR-6 SE to a MK4 :)
