Watching a Klipper video while I wait for my Klipper to ship. I've had a printer for a week, and people online say "get used to your printer before klipperizing", but I print at least one thing per day, and I need the speed gainz.
I had to teach myself Klipper when I built my V0. The learning curve is a vertical line. I'm glad I learned how though. Gave me a good understanding of how printers work.
@@LostInTech3D It's great to satisfy you! We will try our best to do better. Of course, if you have suggestions for improvement, please provide them to us. friend!
I like your video/commentary style. Amusing and informative at the same time and NO CRAPPY MUSIC in the background. Videos without commentary are useless. I'll have to subscribe.
Great review. I built a Voron 2.4 about a year ago upgrading from a ender3 v2.. I have been in IT for over 20 years, most of those years working with some flavor of *nix. Building and configuration were still a challenge but easier due to my work experience. I couldn't imagine someone with little to no linux/hardware experience starting with Klipper. Thanks again for sharing. New subscriber.
Have an X-smart 3 with Klipper and absolutely love the web interface and everything. I'm an intermediate user and had zero issues. It has a very fluid (no pun intended 😂) and modern feel to everything. I plugged a USB camera in to the QiDi X-smart 3 and bam I have camera over WiFi immediately. Can calibrate pressure advance and any other setting from web console and easily control everything.
Honestly I thoroughly love klipper. I was skeptical of it when i bought my sonic pad but i now have an Anycubic Chiron and Ender 3 V2 NEO running off it. I literally just not 30min ago used an old z-endstop from an ender 3 pro i also have to make a filament runout sensor for my v2 neo. Took me all of 20mins of reading online which pin was needed and where to plug in the sensor and enable it in klipper, no need to recompile firmware or anything, just change some settings in a CFG file and boom its enabled and ready to test.
Didn't know this was an option. I've got a superfluous endstop kicking around due to a BLTouch installation on my Ender3 v2, will have to look into it to see if I can do it too!
Also, people think Klipper is somewhat "magical", but there's a reason why big print farms don't run klipper. A marlin based printer hooked up to power is nearly a bug-free setup. While Klipper and its connectivity features, and linux and whatnot can cause a lot of problems along the way. And this is coming from someone, that uses both, Marlin and Klipper and i'm happy with both of them.
I agree. Pretty simple, literally. Software is always susceptible to issues, so the simpler the software can be, the more robust the overall system will be.
I'm waiting for the dust to settle before driving into a stock klipper machine. Honestly, that video felt disjointed and I'm not sure I know any more about how to actually use it than I did before. I usually enjoy your videos very much, so I'll be back for round 2. Keep up the good work.
I think it was a good overview, but for something so complex it would seem disjointed to someone not familiar with the topics. Maybe it would be more appropriate to watch a “how to do basic things in Klipper” video first, then watch this video to learn a little about the underlying components that make it all work. I’d say this is a great video for intermediate to advanced 3D printing makers, but too dense information for beginners that aren’t familiar with circuit boards or Linux.
I can't believe you had this (really good) image as a possible thumbnail option and decided to go with the klippers at first xD By the way I don't really get why people call Klipper less user-friendly. Changing stuff is just so much easier and everything is where you expect it to be. Not to mention that having the interface in a browser just shows you a lot more information. The only "difficult" part is flashing some firmware and getting a starting point for your settings which are both not an issue for premade solutions.
Just because the tools are convient, doesn't make them beginner-friendly. Those are two seperate things, that gets mixed up a lot, no offense. There is a diference between able to edit a config file vs understanding it and able to editing.
@@TuncayAyhanEditing a config file on the fly is much easier than the Marlin way of editing it all and then compiling the firmware. Then if you need to change something, you need to do it all again.
Just a helpful note: ChatGPT and Bing, understand Klipper Config and Macros. So if you do get an error, it will walk you though them. Also If you need to make a change or want to add something, you can copy and paste your PRINTER.CFG into the AI after telling it what you want to change and it will do it for you.
It might be better now, I did a few shorts on how misleading gpt was with 3d printing but people got mad so I stopped..it's a good source as long as you check it's not making stuff up 🤣
I had ChatGPT write a Klipper macro but deleted printer.cfg after looking through it and finding an added macro called Human Eradication Mode. I'm pretty sure my 3D printer was going to kill me in my sleep the microsecond after the AI singularity occurred.
@@roccocroce - Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner. Chef's fancy new TV entered Human Eradication Mode when the wrong button was pressed on the remote and it started killing everyone in South Park.
I just upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to Klipper, and it's great. I would love to see a video with more about adding to the config file bc the basic file for my main board was basically empty with just macros for steppers and temperatures. Coming from Marlin where everything is commented in was a big step😅 Very helpful video, thanks!
I can add it to the list but in the meantime there should be in the folder tree somewhere a bunch of sample configs including for the ender 3. You can copy and paste out of those into the main config. 👍
I would love more Klipper type videos in the future, I have just put Klipper on my main printer and not being too computer/Linux savvy it was pretty rough. It is all working now however I got a canbus board for my hotend and have no idea how to go about setting it up. Big tree tech told me I don’t need a U2C board to get it working, but unfortunately they have no documentation on how to install it on their site/GitHub page. Awesome video as always sir 👍🇦🇺😊
These days, I'm shooting the print jobs over directly from PrusaSlicer. Strangely, it has options in the print host queue setup for Mainsail/Fluidd, but selecting the Octoprint option is the one you still select to make it work (I'm not running Octoprint, but I guess Moonraker does octoprint handling on its own)
Your START_PRINT macro doesn't heat up anything and you don't do it in slicer either. Does cura always put them in the start of the G-code no matter what's in the "Start G-code" field?
Definitely need more episodes; I think a start to finish setup of the SV07 would be good, since I think a lot of people are about to receive an SV07 soon! (Set it up as in calibrate it, set up a slicer for it, etc.)
Raspberry Pi's are definitely a lot more available at regular prices, starting just after this video was released. I'm enjoying Klipper and RepRap (on Voron and Railcore) after years of Marlin it is refreshing to move on to better software.
Just purchase an orange pi or something like that and never thing about shortage of raspberry again. It's basically the same thing but cheap as dirt and available nearly everywhere.
You don’t need a Pi or even an SBC to use Klipper. I’ve got an older SFF desktop running Ubuntu and then I used the KIAUH install script for setup. My SFF runs four Klipper printers without any issues.
Yep, mine is running on an OLD laptop (Core 2 Duo CPU, lol) that I saved from the scrap pile for this purpose (though I'd be surprised if it'd run more than one printer simultaneously).
I love Klipper but setting it up was a huuuuuge pain. I wish there was a drop down with common commands. I get that you can type in the commands but most folks aren't about command lines and don't want to go search the klipper docs to do something you could do easily in Marlin. It wouldn't be hard to make a beginner friendly iface that will give you suggestions on different things to do to set it up.
It's interesting how we've progressed from the ANET A8, which required manual wiring and had a questionable mainboard and power supply, to beginner-friendly 3D printers like the Ender Series. However, it's ironic that with the addition of Klipper to these style of printers, newcomers find it more complex than Marlin. It feels like we've taken two steps forward and one step back.
I had a Anet A8, the most parts i still have and still use, the ONLY dodgy part on that printer was the traces for the heated bed output were too small for the current. if you didn't connect the bed or used a mosfet mod that machine was perfectly safe.
I like the Reprap firmware but the duet boards are expensive. I like Reprap because you don't need to fool with linux but looks like Klipper is the future so might as well embrace it
Marlin and klipper has their ups and downs Marlin is mainly for lower price point printers as it is just firmware whilst klipper requires a relatively high performing cpu making it more suited for more costly printers.
I don't have a Klipper printer so I really don't know much about it. One thing that raised a concern is with the start macro. On my setup PrusaSlicer substitutes the first-layer print temperatures (extruder and bed) with what I have configured in the filament settings into the start gcode. If I replace the start gcode with a call to the printer based start macro, how does the printer's macro know what type of filament that I've sliced the print for so it can set up the first layer print temperatures?
Cura adds it from the slicer settings, and klipper understands it (as gcode) I think it might be the same in prusa, sometimes people are adding stuff that makes it worse not better, but I don't really use the prusa with klipper much yet.
Linux system administration isn't my strong skill, but on a system I've setup myself, I like klipper. on a factory machine I'm a bit apprehensive. There have been a lot of totally unsecured Linux internet of things devices sold in the last decade. Pis being unobtainable, I'm running my Voron 2.4 on an old thin client with an upgraded ssd. Kiauh is a lifesaver. Ironically I had been planning to script the install. they saved me a lot of trouble.
I've still not got round to kiauh, but I seem to be moving in the direction of pre-made images, this vid was meant for people with pre-installed klipper, and I shudder at the thought of trying to make a klipper from scratch video...where would you even start lol.
@@LostInTech3D OS installation, the Klipper User setup and installation of the tools basically. I'm using a bare Ubuntu Server install and just the dependencies for Klipper. With kiauh, the hard parts are all linux administration. Kiauh handles most of that too. That tends to be why the pi installation is so favoured. The crunchy bit is done for the end user.
Well this has been a disappointment. Lots of of overview about problems but nothing showing how to use Klipper. But with the hope of more videos to come. I bought an Ender 3 when they first came out. Since that time I have used about 25% of a roll of filament that I used in the first month. Then it was left to collect dust until a couple of months ago. I decided Klipper as the way to go. Got a touch probe, modified the 8 bit board for a BL Touch, and got it configured using an old Raspberry Pi 3. (which I have about a dozen of) So I had Klipper working in some ways. I was able to home, execute a bed mesh command (but am not sure it is used in a print). The next problem I had was getting a slicer to feed a useful file to Klipper. I followed one video to add in the start and stop macros to Prusia slicer and it seems to work. (still no idea on the bed mesh) There are a few videos on setting up Klipper on specific printers. The problem for me was that they were not the same hardware (than my old 8 bit board) of they did a different image construction process (I used a Mainsail Klipper Moonraker image via the Raspberry Pi imager) or they used Octoprint, or some other slicer. In the end I cobbled something together but I didn't have any videos that showed me how to use it all. Slicer to Klipper and then print. That is what I thought this video might have been initially based on the title. What I want? Instructions on how to setup slicers to feed Klipper. A list of checks to see if I set things up properly. At some point to be able to connect a ADXL345 and get input shaping to work. To make some optimizations to make use of the advantages of the Klipper platform. (eg. faster printing) I used to design electronic products (recently retired) so the technical level in this video was no problem. I'm not a programmer but I have written useful programs for hardware. I have limited understanding of Linux, but I manage.
The KIAUH script to setup Klipper on a linux machine greatly simplifies the config process on the PC side, and writing a working printer.cfg, etc., can be achieved by following the Klipper documentation. You also don't need special hardware to get input shaping to work, you can do it with a test print and some calipers, though the hardware method will certainly be more accurate. That said, I've eliminated ghosting, and can print twice as fast on my Ender 3 v2 than before I was running Klipper.
The KIAUH script seems a lot more steps compared to using the available Klipper/Moonraker/Mainsail prebuilt image available with the Raspberry Pi imager tool. The bigger problem I had was to do with using the 8 bit board from the earliest release of the Ender 3. There was no clear examples when it came to IO port values to use. Most of the information is for newer boards. I already have some ADXL345 boards so that isn't an issue. I haven't bother looking into implementing input shaping until I get the slicer, bed leveling, and workflow worked out. Input shaping is a later enhancement.
Well, I figured Klipper or something like it, was coming. I really don't want to buy a new printer (to replace my LARGE volume Creality-CR10S). I would like to figure out an upgrade path, however, that include Klipper. I bought the BTT SKR Pico V1.0 Control Board and a nice screen, of course when the market for Raspberry PIs tanked. I just now need to figure out a proper path to switch out the stock CR10 controller for the BTT Pico, find a Raspberry PI ( 4? ) and learn some nuggets of knowledge from your upcoming "migration to Klipper" videos!
Will you be making a video on Orca Slicer? I downloaded it yesterday and quite like it as it is similar to Prusa Slicer which I only use for my MKIIIs as I dont like its GUI, I do like Cura's GUI though and Orca is laid out in a similar fashion to the Cura GUI. I have had to make profiles for my printers for Orca as none of mine are in Orca but I found that quite simple, I am currently integrating the API calls to Octoprint into it for my Marlin machines and will later attempt to do the same for Web Control for my Duet equipped RepRap printer, having the slicer and wireless GUI all in one without having to manually change to Octoprint and Web Control will be great, I did convert one of my printers to Klipper but missed the multitude of plugins that Octoprint has so i swapped back, I am thinking of flashing Klipper again to see if Octoklipper will run my plugin library.
Nice video. Inbound love to see a step by step video on how to set klipper on the SV06 with klipper screen. ..lol. I have the pi 3b already and have a screen on the way. It seems a bit daunting of a process.
I am quite happy with Marlin, It still revolves around the quality of your G code, garbage in, garbage out . Latest version of Marlin is just as competative with Klipper. Learning how use Cura or other slicer to its full extent is a requirement. Quite happy to flash an SD card with the required file and go for a walk and plug it in to a printer (occasional exercise is good). It is no harder to re-flash the firmware using Marlin, and at the end of the day how many times do people do it after getting it right. Couple of things I have against Klipper, the rip off price of Pi boards, lack of availability and extra complexity in setting them up. And until I can can change over a roll of filament, pack the used roll away properly and clean the printer out over WiFi I am quite happy to stick with Marlin. PS. I also am a member of the Luddites Anonymous Society. 🙂
I'm sorry, but I have had Klipper printers since the very "early" days of klipper and compiling and updating Marlin was a b***h... Along came Klipper and all of a sudden it was easy to build software for 3D printers and let them evolve and be in the forefront on what is possible with a FDM printer. I do respect that alot of people is having problems with klipper, but more often than not it's a user error or just not reading on the screen 😅 So for some of us, its just plain easier and faster than having to fight with Marlin
@@LostInTech3D i do not want to come out too harsh (I'm Danish) I know that there are alot of Klipper "religious" people that sometimes trolls 🧌 other believers...
I'd like to get Klipper running in a pc with windows! I think is possible but I have only seen people replacing windows with Linux to install klipper. There should be a way to run klipper with some sort of Linux simulator in Windows. Now that I think about it I could live with just a partition running Linux as long as I don't have to get rid of windows. Is to check klipper with an ender Neo btw.
Ok I'm running Klipper and mainsail in Linux pc but controlling it from my windows pc. In orca slicer you can send the print job directly to mainsail to start printing, that alone (vs having to deal with the sd card for every print) makes the update worth it. About speed, I'm not seeing any advantage on my ender neo, because the hotend seems to be the bottleneck of my printer, it starts underextruding at around 70mm/s. Maybe I didn't set up something correctly (actually i'm using the start g code that I was using for marlin 😅) but not sure that will solve the underextrusion. I'll get there eventually, maybe changing the hotend and/or extruder. And that would be an amazing video Lost in Tech, make a video showing how to get an ender running at more than 100 mm/s wih klipper and enjoy a million viewers.
I've recently (this week) changed my Ender 3 V2 to use klipper. It was fairly simple but there was plenty of YT help and I know my way around non-gui os's. What I want to learn is how to run my printer faster, beyond the original mcu capability but within the hardware limitations.
I have the same printer and I'm looking at changing to Klipper too. I'm struggling to find YT content relevent to my setup. I have a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B with 8gb of Ram. Most of the documentation I am finding is for earlier versions of Rasberry pi Would you be willing to share your reccomended sources? Happy to do it in private messages if you prefer.
Ngl, I'm still unsure what the difference is or what would make someone choose this over what's been being used (other than fast[?] but I'm not sure what makes it faster versus the others, or how it achieves that 🤷🏿♀️)
Good news, Digikey does have RPi SBC's in stock. However, you can use ANY computer running Linux to run klipper, you can even run klipper on your desktop or laptop computer (if it runs Linux, though maybe Klipper will be or already is ported to Windows or Mac). In that case, just connect your printer to your computer via USB as you already do. You will have to leave your PC running while printing though. Another SBC that wasn't mentioned are the Beagle Bone / Beagle board. You could also use any micro ATX mother board with an el-cheapo Atom, Celeron, or other X86ish processor. If you can develop Android apps, you could also run Klilpper on an old smart phone.
you didn't even cover the most important thing to talk about related to clipper, which is why. why would people want to use clipper? what's so special about what clipper does compared to what Marlin does? does clipper do something about ringing that Marlon doesn't or can't does clipper take information from accelerometers in order to smooth out and clean up some printing artifacts like ringing.
I need some literature about this, honestly. I'm clicking through a 1000 videos and try to understand the subject, everyone is doing different stuff and says different things. Can you suggest any literature?
I install klipper 5 days ago, really its was not so hard , i just hava trubles with my bltouch clone but i just solved conecting them to the probe port of my skr mini e3 v2.The documentation is very good , now im making a usb acelerometer with a pico + adxl345 , chang the printer.cfg file its so esay now😊 , and i can print pretty fast. (300 mm/s infill,150 mm/s walls , 5000 accel, on modified ender3 plus e3d volcano hotend/TItan extruder
Thank you for this video. I was considering getting a Bigu machine (have been use Prusa's for years). Now I'm so depressed about Bigu/Clipper machines I think I'll just curl up into a ball and whimper for a couple of hours.
I use the 3D printer as a hobby. Never once have I printed a calibration cube or a benchy cos I am just printing fun stuff. My Ender 3 does everything I need. It takes its time but I never needed it to go any faster anyway cos I work 12 hour shifts and usually I let it run through ny shift til I come back. I just find it relaxing to have something being built and printed while I go on about my day. Never needed it for business or trying to monetize this hobby. Parts for Ender 3 are easily and cheaply procured online. I always keep spares of parts cos they are so cheap. I am so good at bed levelling that I dont even run tests anymore. Just watch the skirt print and adjust along the way.
Thanks that’s was exactly what I was looking for. I would like to understand things just a little bit deeper, like what ssh is and why each board have to be flashed with / for klipper. Ie canbus and the U2C. While I really appreciate the high level explanation, I’m now ready to learn more.
I would still prefer Marlin. I want my actually powerful PC to generate the instruction set for the weak board to read and execute. I don't want a 3rd world desktop in charge of continually making code and adjustments and then feeding it to the printer in real time. Especially since I run enclosures and don't want the hassle of replacing more expensive boards or piggybacked boards. The reason Marlin printer boards are so under spec'd is because they only read and execute GCODE and some other easy to handle instructions and sensors. They even run out of memory on complex prints. Not a hard or expensive fix, 64 bit would help, as would more memory etc. I do understand that people running Klipper have been getting excellent results, but Marlin is capable of high speed printing too, and will catch up. Costs would be low to quadruple the compute power of a 64mhz 32bit cortex chip lol. This is gonna flame some fuzzballs out there, so I will say this: I know how to use Linux and am no stranger to hardware either. I am willing to bet this pendulum swings back to Marlin within a year to 18 months. Klipper is the bitcoin of 3D printing and most people will jump on board because of influencers, not because they understand it. Most people who watch this channel are exempt from this rant as well, and can actually make use of Klipper too.
Past this video im decide the klipper is pointless if u have repetier server or octoprint :) Just next copy funky software of repetier or octo ... Where is the gool to have klipper ?
I've recently installed klipper on an old PC i had connected to an old ender 3, it's so much faster and more convenient to use, even on the stock garbage ender 3 v1 board
Octoprint certainly does work with Klipper and used to be quite common before Mainsail and Fluidd were created. I used Octoprint with Klipper for at least a couple years. Mainsail and Fluidd are more native to Klipper they are the better option now.
Klipper is a very good firmware ,honestlly if yuo want to print faster without any problem , klipper is the awser , Marlin can run fast but Klipper have more bdter control , yuo can feel how esdy can made that high aceleration moves
My main question is... Is it worth converting a marlin printer TO klipper? Specifically... I have an ender 3v2 with MriscoC (Sept '23) which I run Octopi on a pi3A. I'm a bit of a tinkerer if there's an obvious benefit to tinkering, but I hate wasting my time. So do you think there's a benefit to moving to Klipper from marlin for this printer?
My opinion: no. But of course my opinion is tainted by having too many printers. I would advocate something like a btt manta and do klipper all on one board, if you're converting. Wires are... annoying
If you upgrade Klipper “HOST”, you will over time be required to update the Klipper Firmware as well. Ideally, you should always update both at the same time, but you don’t necessarily need to. The thought that you never have to upgrade the Klipper Firmware, is completely wrong.
I don't get it. What's the point of all this when my internet comes from my phone? Sure I'd like to watch my printer when I'm not home but if you don't have an internet connection while you're away no this s*** will work. As long as the printer can take the g code from an SD card I'm happy. I have three printers, all Ender 3 neos. One is an original and the other two are neo Max. The small one is quarter inch out of square in the risers and still Prints fine even with the cheapest of filaments. I also have a small CNC router and a laser. Neither one of those are a quarter of an inch out of alignment otherwise it wouldn't work. I've learned that moisture in the filament it's the biggest headache to 3D printing. So my biggest upgrade is going to be a dehumidifier for my room. :)
Thanks for this, I have 3 different large printers which I need to change to Klipper and now I have an idea where to start thanks to you. Looking forward to any videos on big tree boards. Keep up the amazing output.
I owe BTT a few videos so I'll be trying to combine it into something meaningful...it's tricky to get these kinds of things right but we'll see what happens :)
If you don't know if it's a forward or a backslash, just call it a slash. Otherwise you get nit picky people like me informing you that the slashes used for internet addresses are called forward slashes. 😉
This is such a bad introduction to the topic. You spend the entire video just going "klipper is good. It can get pretty technical but if your printer came with klipper, klipper is good" idk what you expected to do with this video but you didn't hit the mark
I have no idea what point you're trying to make, but if you click next to the video you can view the transcript, where you'll find I did not in fact spend the entire video just going "klipper is good. It can get pretty technical but if your printer came with klipper, klipper is good"
I also just decided to get on Klipper (after years of brewing custom firmware for my printers), and for the start, because the installation is quite point and click, I would like to learn how to edit custom stuff for a printer, for example, how to add BL Touch config, direct drive, different stepper motors (the E3D ones), etc. I think this is where Klipper is a bit "not welcoming" with Marlin veterans, there I knew what I can and can't do, here I'm like in a foreign country without google maps. I think a tutorial on how to config a brand new custom printer would be awesome. I do have a feeling this is might be like switching from PC to Mac, where I didn't know that in order to uninstall an app, I just needed to hold it and click on X and felt stupid when I found out.
Damn wish I seen this video sooner. I had a ender 5 plus that I converted to use the sonic pad and a micro Swiss extruder. I was having a lot of small problems that was very frustrating. I ended up buying the Bambu labs x1c and sold my ender because I was so sick of tinkering with it over the last 2 years just to get it to print consistently. The biggest problem was it seemed like the stepper motor for z axis wasn’t making big enough steps. Like say your printing a cylinder that like 10 inches tall. By the time it’s 25% done it’s like the nozzle was digging into the print and as it got further into the print the less the z axis changes between layers. I even replaced the motors and tried the z axis file Creality has to download but nothing was sorting that problem out for me.
Outstanding explination of Klipper. After watching, I was able to configure my Sovol Klipper screen (with builtin SBC) to my SV06 Plus and get it all working. I use a Windows browser to connect to Klipper through WiFi, and I am as happy as a clam in saltwater!
Using Klipper feels like using a modern programming language. Using Marlin feels like I'm writing assembly code to run on a horse chariot from 1800s to control a Soviet space probe.
I will, but it's pretty easy, most BTT stuff (pi, manta, pad 7) uses the same CB1 image, it's found on their github. The MCU part is in their install guide. The hard part with BTT products is knowing where to start so hope that helps!
