Which methods should be / not be used for 1” main line before solenoid? It seems all of these wouldn’t hold under constant pressure, or would they? What about a PVC union connection? Thanks.
I know this is old, and I don't know if I will get a timely response, but, any ideas or experience on how FAR this thing will go? I need to go under about, oh, I dont know, at least 25 feet of concrete... trying to do the smarter thing, not harder here... any help, any wisdom will be cherished. Thanks~
Hey, don’t glue the ends on. Use a small aluminum nail drill tiny hole , insert nail, bend over, can re use a couple times maybe, or for wide walk or drive way. Drill half way, short pipe, short trench. Add more pipe finish water drill. That is drill 12 foot wide walk, with 3 pvc 3ft 6 inches long, add couplings, move hose end to next piece, keep drilling. Fun fun fun!
Here’s a $3,000 way to do the same thing. Congratulations on your inexpensive adaptation. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Am7qi2GNUYo.html
Repair Couplings 1". Cost fitting $1 pipe $2 If you can not find repair couplings just make Dyi Repair Coupling buy Std coupling remove the stop and some taper and slide coupling on Pvc pipe. Fusion-One-Step-PVC-Cement | Oatey is a must self priming long slow set time it is expensive $10 but remember you need time to do repairs and you do not want to add primer to your Store bought / Dyi Repair Couplings. Easy cheep fast strong what more do you want.
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Nice intro to these products. Thanks for the demo... Also recall the great moments we had with Prof. John Beard from the Oklahoma State Uni 20 years ago in my country - Sri Lanka. He was a nice person. Cheers!
These are more for when u don't have a lot room or don't have alot of flexibility in the pipe to work and make a proper weld. Obviously making a connection with primer and cement will never leak because you are essentially melting the two pipes together.
I wanted to run an electric cable to my shed at the bottom of my garden and used one of these kits to tunnel under an odd path that crosses my garden one side to the other half way down. I found the instructions very clear, and the components super easy to assemble. It was so easy to operate, and very very quick, especially in the loamy soil on my property. Everything went superbly well, until I discovered that it wasn't a path at all, but a duct cover on an 11,000 volt cable. Now I'm paralysed down my left side and want to know who to sue. Do you own the company?
A: I highly doubt you would have anything higher than 440v in your yard, and even that's a stretch. B: electrical conduit can not be pierced with a simple garden hose. C: From the sounds of it we would all benefit from your electrocution.
I am going to deploy a few of these in my grow room, Does the signal wire just go to a solenoid controller? I have a leeder 1hp pump, 500 gallon reservoir, and a Galcon irrigation timer, it is a pressure compensating system as well. Any input would be great.
I used the compression coupling to fix a hole in my sprinkler system piping. The part cost $4.50 and the pipe cutting tool cost me $12.00. Using the information in this video I saved over $150. I just had to get dirty to dig up the rest of the sink hole caused by the broken pipe. Thank you !!!
I'm thinking of trying the compression coupling but am having doubts that it will provide a reliable seal.... how did it perform for you since this comment? No leaks?
Compression couplings should be a last resort. They will leak and eventually fail if under constant pressure. I've had a few fail right before a valve assembly. The only time I think I would ever use one now is down like beyond the valves. They really should be a last resort.
the flexible one seems to be the best , some idiot wearing my clothes drove a metal breaking bar thru my 1 inch pipe under a huge pile of landscape boulders , now I need a tractor to move them prior to repair . I am an idiot
Did you ever catch the guy who stole your clothes and did the damage? maybe you can sue them for damages... at least make his life a little bit worse for doing it.
Thanks for the informative video. I know it's a demo video but if doing it for real life use, the pipe should probably be deeper underground? I've read a foot below the sidewalk should suffice. Would you agree with that?
It all depends for what the pipe will be used. If you are going to use it as a water pipe, not as a sleeve, then yes it should be deeper. If you are using it as a sleeve for a drip lateral then it does not need to be deeper. Thanks, Lou
There is no need to unscrew anything on the slip fix in order to glue it in. why not just use the "slip" feature to make your final connection? You also want to measure and cut the pipe so the slip fix is fully extended when glued in. This is because when the line comes under pressure ( if not fully extended) it will act like a hydraulic ram and want to fully extend. This is usually not a problem if its just a long run of pipe but if there is a ELL or TEE not far from either side of the slip fix this can put pressure on the fitting breaking it causing future leaks. I teach my guys to get in the habit of installing the slip fix so it is fully extended.