Nice intro to these products. Thanks for the demo... Also recall the great moments we had with Prof. John Beard from the Oklahoma State Uni 20 years ago in my country - Sri Lanka. He was a nice person. Cheers!
I used the compression coupling to fix a hole in my sprinkler system piping. The part cost $4.50 and the pipe cutting tool cost me $12.00. Using the information in this video I saved over $150. I just had to get dirty to dig up the rest of the sink hole caused by the broken pipe. Thank you !!!
I'm thinking of trying the compression coupling but am having doubts that it will provide a reliable seal.... how did it perform for you since this comment? No leaks?
Compression couplings should be a last resort. They will leak and eventually fail if under constant pressure. I've had a few fail right before a valve assembly. The only time I think I would ever use one now is down like beyond the valves. They really should be a last resort.
Repair Couplings 1". Cost fitting $1 pipe $2 If you can not find repair couplings just make Dyi Repair Coupling buy Std coupling remove the stop and some taper and slide coupling on Pvc pipe. Fusion-One-Step-PVC-Cement | Oatey is a must self priming long slow set time it is expensive $10 but remember you need time to do repairs and you do not want to add primer to your Store bought / Dyi Repair Couplings. Easy cheep fast strong what more do you want.
the flexible one seems to be the best , some idiot wearing my clothes drove a metal breaking bar thru my 1 inch pipe under a huge pile of landscape boulders , now I need a tractor to move them prior to repair . I am an idiot
Did you ever catch the guy who stole your clothes and did the damage? maybe you can sue them for damages... at least make his life a little bit worse for doing it.
Which methods should be / not be used for 1” main line before solenoid? It seems all of these wouldn’t hold under constant pressure, or would they? What about a PVC union connection? Thanks.
There is no need to unscrew anything on the slip fix in order to glue it in. why not just use the "slip" feature to make your final connection? You also want to measure and cut the pipe so the slip fix is fully extended when glued in. This is because when the line comes under pressure ( if not fully extended) it will act like a hydraulic ram and want to fully extend. This is usually not a problem if its just a long run of pipe but if there is a ELL or TEE not far from either side of the slip fix this can put pressure on the fitting breaking it causing future leaks. I teach my guys to get in the habit of installing the slip fix so it is fully extended.
These are more for when u don't have a lot room or don't have alot of flexibility in the pipe to work and make a proper weld. Obviously making a connection with primer and cement will never leak because you are essentially melting the two pipes together.
