At DashboardSymbols.com we address common questions asked of service departments: "what's that warning light" and "my key is dead, how do I get in and start my car?" The videos here are meant to help get into and start a push button start car when your key has gone dead. Many cars now have hidden key holes, an unnecessary attempt to make a car just a little bit prettier. The videos are for information sharing purposes only, and should not replace an OEM service manual or factory authorized service. We are not an auto repair business nor do we publish automotive service manuals. Nothing we say has been reviewed, approved or authorized by any manufacturer.
Only proper service and repair will ensure safe and reliable operation. Proper safety procedures and precautions should be followed at all times. Technology is always changing and when it comes to the auto industry, what is accurate today may be out-of-date tomorrow. In the mean time, we intend only to help.
@@DashboardSymbols yes you may. I searched other videos trying to figure out how to start a porche with a dead key fob. With no luck until I found yours
Recently my 2016 Tundra 4x4 has had random occasions where the check engine, ABS, Traction Control will all come on while driving. The truck seems to be running and driving fine. So I stop, turn off the engine and upon restarting it, sometimes, everything will reset to normal, ie. No warning lights. I took it O’reillys and Napa and their scan tool showed error U0155; abnormal communication with instrument panel. I took to the Toyota dealer and they couldn’t get any error codes! ? Told me to bring it back when the warning lights were on and charged me $197 for this expert diagnostic advice that didn’t find or fix anything! I called another Toyota dealer, described the issue and the U0155 code and after some research they said I’d have to bring it in while the lights were on. Right now it’s been off for over a week. All I can do is hope it doesn’t come back on. Anyone else have this problem come up?
Ok, wow, how unhelpful were they! Have not seen this particular issue come up. The code and diag are correct, which would make me look for a loose connection behind the inst panel and at the control module. Be better than paying for non help!! Good luck -- let us know how it comes together.
On my side I have the issue of the battery having shorten lifetime, even when not used. And like you said, unfortunately even in advanced more for updating the firmware, the previous one (where the time for going to protection mode) is not available... And from what I saw on web, replacing the battery is a nightmare, because Bose forces to use a special software after replacing the physical battery, available only for official dealers (so it will for sure be my last Bose speaker that I buy, I HATE this kind of commercial practices!!!)
@sebsoud We are at their mercy, at least for the most serious issues. I've been fortunate to keep mine going in the years since the vid (famous last words), which saved my speaker...
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH. After hours of research, numerous updates, repair videos and even ordering and putting in a replacement battery which did not do the trick, your A,V,D, Up arrow, Down Arrow information DID IT!!! You saved me so much money that I could not afford to spend, thank you AGAIN!
@@DashboardSymbols yes, and I’m not joking about how helpful this video was. I watched like 3 others first that all provided wrong or outdated information
@@Bubba451 Thank you again. And to give the others a break, Audi (and the other German manufacturers) make getting the right info very difficult. We run into models randomly and post what we learn...
Just found this after having the red blinking light for two days and numerous attempted remedies. All the button pushing, all the resetting, all the pull the charger while holding the button etc. Tried the Bose update but said it was updated. Had started to take it apart to start gettining ready to replace the battery when I found this. Followed the instructions, reconnected to the Bose update website, hooked up the Bose Mini II, entered the ADV, Up arrow, down arrow and got the option to update to the 1.1.4. It progressed to about 56 percent then stopped. I started the process again and it finally updated to 100 percent. The blinking red light stopped. It's now charging normally again. Thank you for the excellent guidance.
What do you do when the RFID is not working? Drove to a restaurant, the. An hour later fob was not recognized. Tried all these tips in the video, as well as taking battery out and resetting car.
If you're in the car, the fob will be recognized placed at the spot next to the 12-volt outlet. Let it sit for a minute. Otherwise, try a new battery in the fob. If that doesn't work, you'll need a Tesla service ctr. Good luck...
This was great for me except for one thing. When I used the command prompt and the BDE, all it showed was the numerical password, and not the Bitlocker password. I have tried multiple times to enter the key found in my Microsoft account information for this laptop. However, when I tried to use it in the recovery process, it is not recognized as vaild. Any ideas?
Well, I see that you noted a Numerical Password, which is what I saw as well. However, if what you actually got was numbers only, that's what you want! Otherwise getting into the BIOS is the only way I am aware of to complete a bypass. The fact that you actually HAVE a a key in your MS account suggests a deeper problem that I am unfamiliar with...
I have a 2012 kia optima LX and it doesnt have a key that comes out of a compartment. Its just a regular key. Battery has died. I cant fully inset the key into the key slot. How do i unlock my car?
Ok, sounds like a flip key, that fine. But if the key will not go all the way into the lock cylinder, you'll need a locksmith. But first, try a little oil on the key. Maybe things are just jammed. And I think you mean the start battery has died, so you'll need a jump start and go straight to the parts store for a battery/charge test...
First, you're welcome. Second, yes, take it to Hyundai. The latch is recalled and they'll replace it for free! Finally, can we add you comment to the website? (we have to ask...)
Hi, thank you a lot for this tutorial on how to fix the red flashing light. I have the Mini II series, and it worked fine, but using the combination of a, d, v and up and down arrows. Then, re-upgraded to last version of the firmware, that was already installed in the device. And it worked like magic. By the way, I did it on a MacBook Pro Intel. Thank you man.
You can login to your Microsoft account from another device and look for the key for your particular locked device. If you have multiple devices with same account, match with the specific key ID given on your locked device.
Not much that can be done from a chair. Do check your tire pressures, but beyond that, you need a good mechanic to do a hands-on diagnosis. Did u hit a pot hole recently?? No matter what, find a good tech...
It absolutely should and if the start battery is good, it WILL work. Did you get inside? Is the instrument panel showing you anything?? There is nothing else. Need more details to help...
THANK YOU for this very detailed information. I got all three of the lights on the night before I hosted a party for 45 at my home. Not having a car was not super helpful and I needed more information. Safely used the car for a 5 mile errand, hosted the event, care to the shop the next day!
Hi, I'm Angelo from Italy, I had lost hope because I had already updated the firmware once so the procedure was blocked, although the interface, the A, D, V, Up arrow, Down arrow keys have changed. they still work and by forcing the update the speaker stopped flashing with the red LED and now it works
