Yeah, still have full water pressure at this height! When I bought this Jack plate the guy at OTF recommended shallow scoops made by TR Machining. They kinda act like a little ram intake and grab the water that is sliding up the lower unit from the nose cone.
@@SofuQTwofor sure. You can get all types of jackplates. Most inexpensive ones have just bolts to adjust the height which is great if you just need a permanent lift. This one is more performance minded to change while moving. In your case you could also mount the plate 1-2 inches high and then be able to lift the motor 6-7 inches. Oops. Read that backwards. You'd likely run into the issue of tiller arm clearance and other issues if you mount a short shaft on a long transom and tried to mount it lower.
It's a stainless solas hr Titan 4. Moderate factory cupping and high rake. Been happy with it so far. I made a longer video too with more detail about the prop towards the end of the video
Thanks, Mr. Long! The eBay link in the description goes to a missing page. Please could you post the Webasto part number? I'm not seeing many / any Webasto screens with a concentric hole. If yours didn't come that way, how did you accomplish it? Thanks for your time.
That's too bad about the link, I can't even look back on it to view. It also doesn't have a part number or anything listed. Mine did come with the center hole. I don't believe it was a genuine Webasto part, so you may get lucky using creative search words.
@@timlong1462Ah, well. Thank you for replying. After some clicking around, I wonder whether it's maybe the Chinese 'Kindgreat' aftermarket part for the Webasto Thermo Pro 50? I have measured the Omnifuel priming pads from my service kit at 40mm OD x 4mm thick, center hole 8mm. The Kindgreat mesh screen is listed at 36mm OD x 3mm thick, but no mention of the dia. of the center hole. Maybe it'll work, hopefully without rattling.
I sure think so. It seemed like a lot at the time I got it. It was almost 50% of what I got my boat for haha. I waited almost 2 years eyeballing it. I ended up getting it and wishing I got it sooner. Just keep in mind you'll need to either mod your prop or get a cupped prop which adds to the cost too, and some sort of low water pickup. I went with TR machining shallow scoops on FB. He custom makes em in TX for most motors. If you have a spare prop you could try to cup and shape yourself. I have like 3 now but this stainless 4 blade rocks. I've got a few videos running the croix and the top of the prop is out of the water. The whole hydrofoil is like 4" above water. It's impressive what you can do with one of these setups. Loud as all get out when you run that high though with the exhaust above water. One off side effect of a high rake cupped 4 blade is prop walk on plane when you have the motor down. It's got so much grip that in a light little boat you can feel the boat almost drift at speed which feels sketch at 28mph. It's almost like the prop likes to run in a blow out state if you know what I mean. When it hooks that rake literally pushes the rear sideways. It's a trade off for running 25mph in 8" of water though haha. Tons of fun though, it's not a setup you just let your buddy run, gotta get the feel for it and learn how to work it.
@@timlong1462 I was looking for a Titan 4 in a 13spd. But can only find 12. Expensive props too. 300 shipped. A 4 blade aluminum Solas Amita 2213-100-13 isn't going to cut itel eh? Caught some nice smallies in the Croix. Fish it often still
@@sculpinator14 it's nearly impossible for me to say. I did a ton of research prior to buying because it was $259 at the time and I've wrecked a prop before so it felt kinda crazy to drop on one. If you are wanting to get to actual surface piercing height you will basically need stainless. They are much thinner in the body of the blade. I couldn't get on plane with my aluminum prop while raised, but it's no problem with this stainless. Part of that will be due to this blade design though. Prop cupping is the number 1 thing for shallow running though when you start looking at forums etc. you may be able to get by with a heavy cupped alu prop, but you will probably have to custom make it which will cost more likely unless you do it yourself. That HR Titan 4 is factory cupped so it might be the cheapest option if you're truly wanting to get up to surface piercing running. If you can keep the prop low enough to not ventilate and that works for what you want then standard prop may be perfectly fine. Also when you go to 4 blade be sure to drop at least an inch of pitch. I went from a 3 blade 10.3x13 to this 10x12 4 blade and it feels comparable to a 10.3x14-15 3 blade. I probably could've dropped 1 more to a 10x11 4 blade
@@sculpinator14I've got a super short little video I'll put up as a YT short. Running top speed with the motor fully raised up and stainless prop. You'll see what I mean by surface piercing. You can't actually see the prop because of the foil, but the tops of the blades break the surface and would probably throw a huge rooster tail without the foil on. I like the foil though because it helps pop me up on plane pretty fast if I need to.
What's the point in building one of these when they sell all in one units for the same price? I mean this isn't water proof. There issue an internal battery. Scars the advantage to this?
Most of those have the little controller mounted on the outside which is a no go if you camp and this stays outside of the vehicle or tent. That's my number one use for this thing. That's why all of the temperatures I took here are important. My initial worry was the temps in the box would be too hot for the controller to live long. This is not waterproof, but I transport it on too of the vehicle and drive through rain and snow. I is rain proof and stayed dry inside even after a 10 hour drive. I also wanted something a bit more durable construction than paper thin sheet metal and generally cheap construction. Those all in ones just look so incredibly flimsy and cheaply made I chose to make this.
Hey man I have the same problem with my boat with the same outboard and I been looking for a prop. Just wanted to ask if you have the part number to that prop?
This is the stock pump mounted in the little rubber isolation mount that comes with the kit. I've never really considered it being quite or loud. You can hear it in person, but I've never been bothered by it.
No I haven't, I wanted a stainless mesh to get away from a fiberglass or felt type of fabric since the supplied one just kinda disintegrated. I've only tried this one and it works the same as stock, haven't needed to try anything else.
Seems to be same brightness, I can't tell when I switch back and forth. Have not done a run time test. The orifice in the tip of the generator is slightly smaller for the kerosene one, so I could see this running slightly longer at similar tank pressures but that's just a guess. Mostly converted in order to carry one fuel for tent heater, stove and lantern.
@@timlong1462 In particular was wondering if it ran longer and by how much. Smaller orifice = less fuel used for the same job. More energy in Kerosene so it should be a bit brighter since it burn hotter.
Great Gear, do you have any info about the heat it produces? Maybe even in Watt or BTUs? I guess if you replace the lid with a flat surface you can easily boil water and even cook a meal.
No idea of heat. It makes similar heat as with white gas. The kerosene has more odor so I wouldn't use long indoors. I made this switch to use same fuel for stove tent heater and lantern so this will always be outside the tent.
I bought it at a hardware store by the lawnmower stuff. You can get them anywhere, or order them. It's just a Briggs and Stratton fuel filter 150 micron. This is not where I ordered from, but it's the same thing. Briggs & Stratton 4105 5-Pack Of 298090S Fuel Filter 150 Micron For Engines without Fuel Pump a.co/d/hXgBSq9
I'm not sure because I didn't measure. There's a lot of videos on fuel usage. Also you can do the math because it's a dose pump that moves a specific volume, and the hz measures pumps per second.
The difference is being able to set this one outdoors in rain/snow and then throw it up on the roof during travel. None of the premade versions are waterproof or water resistant at all. While this design cant be dunked under water, it could be sprayed with a hose no worries or set out in the rain with the addition of a 3 inch plug, or with the output heat hose in place. The only design I saw built similar was the Hcalory (I think spelled that way) and it looked extremely cheaply made for $300 or $150 more than the kit I built this with. The metal case ones just look cheap and flimsy in my opinion. To each their own though. If one of those works for you then save the time and just go with a premade design.
This heater came with the hard nylon line which depending on who you trust is probably the correct stuff to use. Since it's a very small inner diameter it helps bleed the air out of the system faster, won't bulge outward under stroke presser from the pump, and it's very heat resistant. The line from the tank to the pump intake doesn't really matter, so I just used some gates fuel line that felt like it would stand up to the elements and be durable in the cold. There are plenty of other videos here on RU-vid of how to properly install using the clear nylon fuel line. You use the small chunk of rubber fuel line they supply to essentially sheath the connection between the pump and heater and the nylon line. If yours comes with the orange or green fuel line my advice would be take the pump, whatever fuel filter you plan to use and the fuel tank outlet to an auto parts store and get better fuel line.
Hey man, this is a nice build. I like that extra exhaust wrap!! It works so well!!?? Would you consider wrapping that outer exhaust pipe as well for safety? Or put the sleeve on it? I’m doing a similar build now
I actually want the section inside the garage exposed, might as well get all the heat out of it that I can. If this was not a rental, I would put an 8-10 foot chunk of black pipe the length of the garage before exiting out the back to get more of the radiant exhaust heat into the garage. Since I can't cut holes in the wall I have to run the exhaust under the garage door, so the only part I have put the sleeve over is a 4 inch section that gets sandwiched under the door. I was able to layer three chunks of the heat tubing over one another on that small piece under the door to protect the rubber sweep. Then I fill the gaps under the rest of the door with assorted lengths of 2X4 lumber. Helps keep the draft from coming under the gap.
Topp 3.6hz in secret menu code 1688 is much better fuel consume. Ane burn more clean. Now you clogs it slowly up. 3.6hz at topp and 1.2hz at low. Over you only clogs it up slow but for shure. You get the same heat
I don't know about that… Look up any reliable source on these and they say the exact opposite of what you have said. Running these at low fuel rates results in more carbon buildup. You have to keep the combustion temperature high enough in order to reduce this.
@@timlong1462 that depens how much experience you wanna listening to. If you want it clean and same heat for lower cost you use them. If you wanna open and clean it and use more waste of money for same heat, good luck to you. I am still burning 3 years stright
@@vin9976 try low Hz 1.2 and max 3.6hz at topp. Fan speed 2000 2200 low. 3600 to 4000 high. Burn cleaner and saves fuel. And gives the same heat. If not go see fine tune china air heater here in RU-vid. Abaout same same if not remember wrong. Am on hospital now. But can send exactly later
I just got my one active today. Mine is in a large wooden box we were going to throw away. I wondered the temperature in that Keegan ‘case.’ Interesting to see your temp findings. They are great little machines - Although mine has used FAR more fuel in the first two hours than I thought! T’will be a learning curve.
@@Zekerose I don’t think they are particularly noteworthy for fuel consumption but they give a dry heat. Good for a caravan where the wooden carcass tend to rot.
I just built my own from an All-In-One tin box into a HF Apache case. I like your install. Was curious about running the box closed and having the controller overheat auto shut off kick on? I put in a vent and a fan inside the box, but still ended up having to mount the controller on the outside of the case if I wanted to run it while closed. Just curious if you have seen anything similar?
I have not had that happen in many hours of run time. Set up like this in the box you cannot use the thermostat function, you have to go to the Hz setting. Your questions are exactly why I made this video though. I was curious what the temperatures inside would be, and how close it would be to auto shut off or cooking the controller. It's a non-issue though.
Cool build. I just got a 5kw heater and it’s still in the box. I’ve been watching builds and you did one hell of a job. Thank you for the video. Take care my friebd
Looks good, I plan on making the same build. Two questions. What size or number harbor freight box did you use? Regards to the fan, is the fan pulling outside air from the exhaust side or pulling air into the box from the fan side?
It is the Apache 4800 usually about $60 at Harbor freight. The fan is blowing to the inside of the box. That way it is blowing the exhaust out the shortest distance and not drawing it across the controller, fuel pump and combustion intake. I'm planning to add a small switch in line on the fan and mount it on the outside of the box. Mostly just for curiosity's sake to see how much it actually changes the temperature inside. With the heat wrap being so incredibly effective it may not be necessary, but since it draws so little current it can't hurt to have.
Timestamps for various temperatures 3:00 Inside the box temp on intake side 4:30 Exhaust Temperature 5:30 Inside box temp exhaust side 6:30 intake air temp (ambient temp) 7:00 Hot air outlet temp 8:35 inside view of build with box open 10:25 Exhaust temperature with header wrap and exhaust insulation Due to the way I put the amp meter over both the positive and negative wires of the fan I got an incorrect reading. This computer fan only pulls 0.33 A at 12 V.
I'm looking to do same but on a 17' canoe. My crossbar will be u-bolted to the center thwart and unlike you I need to build some vertical adjustment to account for how heavy the boat is with gear and people. I was thinking 2" crossbar with 2" tees and 1-1/2" verticals that I can pin into height adjustment. So because I need a static crossbar width could you tell me how far out your outriggers are from the side of your boat? It appears to be 24-30"? I know the longer out it gets the more stable it will be but I won't know until I try. I can also retract the outriggers off the water for paddling or motoring with an electric motor. The added length and height obviously adding flexibility and losing strength.
I drilled multiple holes I could drop a pin through to change the width of the stance. It all depends on how much overlap of the pipe you think you will need. Obviously as you said the further out the less support there is, and the more flexing there will be. Something I have had to do since making these was to support the T into the reducer coupling area. I had to do some fiberglass/resin repair wrap around it, because that was a weak link in the system. As far as the width goes I don’t think you will see much benefit beyond the outriggers sticking out past 3 feet. Beyond that the flexing will become too much of an issue. I think 2.5 feet is a good distance from the side of the hull. If you design yours as I did and make multiple holes you can easily adjust that distance though which is handy for squeezing through a narrow area.
@@timlong1462 thanks for the feedback. My crossmember will be a 2” non adjustable and will be ABS so a little stiffer. The vertical members will terminate in a tee with a crab float fore and aft. The small piping here will be a weakness but I might fill them with a broomstick or something to provide stiffness.
This is great! Wanna increase your speed? Retrofit a couple Hobiecat hulls on! Dying to try it on my Catalina 25. Try to find a cheap 20' Hobiecat instead of a 16'.
