I'm just having fun saving money by doing DIY jobs myself. It gives me the satisfaction of sitting back watching my work that is completely done with my own labor work and I'm happy to share it. Save money by doing it yourself :)
@@mandybest686 I used Texas Bermuda-grass Smart seed & Scott Grass seed Bermuda that is specifically designed for heat & drought. I live in DFW area. Here’s the link Smart Seed Texas 8.75-lb Bermuda Grass Seed www.lowes.com/pd/Pennington-Smart-Seed-Texas-8-75-lb-Bermuda-Grass-Seed/5013148109
Can provide links and additional info ? A) Wood Fillet Brand (if it still holding up) B) Dill bit grinding tool (grit, bit head size & brand) C) Sand paper grit & brand (pkg of ? Are needed)
The contractor accidently hit my fence pole when they were replacing the sewer line, and I need to do this. What side bags quickcrete are you using, and why three bags. Great video, and thanks.
Looks amazing good job from Scotland 🏴 where we have the iconic midgie !! and I think the hole would still be too big they would still get through 😞
0:23 what the fuck. you dont even show us how to remove the alarm from the wiring. You just completely skip over it. This is the part im having trouble with and other people are too in the comments. Yet you manage to show video of an amazon 9v battery for like 10 seconds and skip over the important part of how to remove the wired part
It’s supposed to just come off, if you’ve never taken it out before it might be a little tight but it does come off. If it’s too hard try cutting the power to where your alarm is, that works too.
Whatever you do, do NOT ALLOW your contractor to install this extremely poorly designed device in your home. It doesn’t have to be this annoying to change a battery while standing on a ladder with a deafening piercing alarm going off. Screw this company and its engineers.
@@chadripley2776THANK GOODNESS FOR YOU bc I just changed my batteries & it wouldn’t stop alarming so yes I did the circuit breaker method & it worked!!! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Might as well remove the post and swap it out with a replacement. Go 3 ft instead of the usual 2. A brick or 2 or multipurpose granite and not use the quickset cement. But hey what do I know I despise using a shovel and I'm going to have fun replacing our side fence for the 1st in 32 years since purchasing our home.
You could have bought the ones that are for like a garage for less openings. Either way nice job I hope it worked cause yeah bugs are the worse especially when you're trying to just enjoy a nice night outside
The manual says that 2 chirps approximately every 20 seconds, with the green light on and blinking every 20 seconds, with the other lights off = a Product End-of-Service Life Notification; and the alarm should be replaced immediately.
I'm renewing our old fence w/new rails and pickets and came across 2 posts, which should be straightened (they have ~ 30 degree deviation fm/vertical. I digged around them same way you did, but about 12" deep, the second one even about 10", then added water to dig more next day, but to my surprise, I could move that 2nd post easily any way I want after that water added. So I straighten them both planning to add cement mixture and water, but then got stuck on the doubts if I need to add any cement in the holes. The posts are aluminum and the fence is pretty light (cedar, 6'). The original cement has practically perfect cylindrical shape, so for the future possible repairs it would be so much easier to deal with those perfect cylinders than the mines of irregular shape. So my question is: what will happen if I just surround those now straight posts (with existing cement cylinders on the bottom of them) with the soil (it is in Texas, soil type of clay)? Will it keep them straight, or it is absolutely necessary to remove the old cement, or at least to add some more new? Thank you for the great film, very informative.
Hi, if you are concern about the straight posts leaning due to the type of soil in Texas, you can certainly do that. Any type of reinforcement can help to keep the post straight, but it would be labor intensive if you attempt to remove the existing cement due to its weight. Reinforcing the cement maybe a better option with a better base support by widening the soil around it then pouring more cement. Hope this help.
@@simplyworks8818 Thank you. I straightened the poles and simply put dirt and water around in 2-3 steps, so it dried out. Everything is very stable probably bcs of the nature of the clay soil here. I put rails on one post already. I think it is better to keep the perfect cylinders how they are. I always can dig out same way I did (it is pretty easy here, the soil is soft) and add cement if there is a need. Thank you for your replay again.
Red light: Smoke or Carbon Monoxide Green light: Alarm operating in normal service. Red light flashing with the green light: Alarm operator is in good condition. Blue light: Gas leak.
And yes, if it flashes blue all the time, it means that its having a gas test: If the blue light is on all the time, it is stuck on gas mode and must be replaced
