Hey mate, need that same tray (mine broke exactly like yours) the link you provided is no longer available, do you know the store name or have another link to it? thanks!
Your video is very informative, thank you for sharing your experience. I'm experiencing an error code of C1453 SS4II Rear Wheel Speed Sensor on my 2011 NT 3.2 Manual and trying to find some answers.
👏👏congratulations on a successful conversion. I was very impressed by your detailed video and reading everyone’s questions and seeing your replies to them. This is what a youtube channel should be all about. Your precise filmed and explained video have educated many and sparked great conversation on the topic. Thank you for your time and effort. 🙌
From memory I used a bit of the same white silastic I had there to glue the door film back. It is a pressure fit when you screw it all together and you should still consider sealing the speaker to the frame
Is that the viscous coupler he pull out at 15:19 if anyone can tell me thanks I'm looking for these super select 4WD II to see how it really is inside Thanks for the video
That is indeed the viscous coupler. You’ll note there is a shaft within a shaft - the middle one is the transfer input shaft and the outer one is the sun gear for the planetary gear set that distributes the torque. Have you read this resource faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2011/22/html/M222000800022100ENG.HTM
@@TravelingBanker the left rear has movement when jacked up and last time I drove it the wheel hummed and I could feel heaps of vibration through the vehicle, the noise and vibration went away whenever I turned left and weight was taken off that wheel lol I don’t know if it’s premature wear from spending a night stuck in a mud hole in the glasshouse mountains a while back 😂 I’ll let you know how it goes mate. There’s a video of my ns on ultimate diesel from a few years ago getting tuned. I had DPF issues last year so I deleted the old exhaust and got a 3 inch turbo back and a new tune from a different shop 🤙
Hey, just out of curiousity (may have been said in video and i missed it) what was the original problem? Im having an issue with my nx atm that i cant engage 4hlc or 4llc. replaced all 5 switches and the actuator on the case. Could posibly be simillar to this, Thanks Nick.
It would shift through the modes OK but the cruise control wasn’t working. Then one day, whilst I was troubleshooting, I managed to bind up the centre diff - couldn’t get it to shift out of 4LLC and car didn’t want to move. Tried rocking it back and forth and then it went bang. What are the error codes? The shift to 4HLC/4LLC needs the differential lock hub to engage, so if there is a problem there it could prevent selection of 4HLC/4LLC.
@@nickwoods3039 C1456 can relate to an issue in the transfer switch circuit - one or multiple switches not reporting the position correctly. A couple of questions: is the earth strap connected between the transfer case and the chassis? Can you hear the actuator moving when selecting between modes? After that, you should check you have power to the switches and the continuity of the switches at each mode.
not sure about the earth strap, but definetly can hear the actuator moving for all modes. Where would i measure the voltage on the switch? and from which 2 points do i measure the continuity
Nice video! Was it driving normally, in all 4x4 modes before you decides to look at it? Mine goes into all 4 modes, sometimes with centre diff light flashing because it couldn't engage... But when it does, it drives around fine, no special noise. Slight tapping in second gear under acceleration, which I can't localise... It also says rear and front output shaft speed sensor error... I hope that it's not the same outcome😅
Mine was normal except for the cruise control not working and after that the centre diff bound up when I was testing through the modes and then it went out with a bang. You could check the operation of the free wheel clutch system, on the front diff (vacuum lines and actuator, solenoids, detection switch on the diff)
Thanks mate, I’ve had a dual fuelled Pajero for nearly twenty years and this is by far the best thing I’ve seen on the transfer case set up. I’ve been trying to work out why there’s a whine starting in 4wd at higher speeds and this gives me a bit to work with.
Great video!!! Quick question though, before you put the big hub nut on, did it have a washer? I remember reading in the manual that there is supposed to be one there, but when i started trying to replace my wheel bearings a while ago, i noticed that there was no washer present. I'm keen to give it another go coz the first time i couldn't undo the 4 wheel bearing hub nuts, but I'm a bit confused as to whether it not it needs the big washer.
😂😂😂Left and right is always based on perspective when sitting in the car, so: Driver side is the left. Passenger side is on the right. That’s why the struts were not straight.😂😂😂
awesome vid mate very informative! I am trying to self diagnose my transmission issues after it has had some water in the tranny, what device and program did you use on your laptop? I am trying to find out whether i have an ECU, Wiring or other electrical issue or water damage to the tranny before i replace my tranny, i have a 2020 NX with the Aisin V5AWF. Thanks in advance.
Gday, I’m using the Mitsubishi diagnostic, “MUT3” and the companion software on a windows laptop. What happened to your box? And what are the symptoms?
@TravelingBanker is it possible to buy this MUT3 device? After a full forward flush using about 15L of Penrith ATF LV for my Aisin, it's not shifting past 3rd, TC feels like it's slipping a lot and doesn't lock up in gear even with Auto Mate. Is there a way to DM you about this?
@@johnsmith-ek8mf a quick google will bring up your MUT3 options. How did the water get in? And have you taken the sump off the transmission to inspect? Your issue does sound mechanical and I suggest you seek out a reputable transmission specialist to help you diagnose the repair. There’s a link to my instagram page in the About tab - open to connect with you there.
Great video mate, I followed this procedure today. BUT... can I please add one really important detail please which may affect people with a NW like me and possibly NX? This is no fault of yours, but this little difference cost me a whole day thinking my 'new' case was faulty when it wasn't. TLDR: Make sure the transfer case is earthed to the chassis before testing the 4WD modes or it won't work properly. At 19:35 when you're testing the 4WD switches before installing the case: I did what you showed, but got a centre diff light flashing only. The actuator sounded like it tried to move and couldn't, like it was jammed. "Phew thanks Traveling Banker for getting me to test this beforehand!" I thought. I pulled it all back down (2 hour job with three small jacks), changed over the actuator from my old case, put it back up in position, another two hours, same thing! When I knew that actuator worked! And the mechanism worked too! The problem was that the five 4WD switches on top of the case only have one wire going to them - the other side of the switch just connects to the body of the switch, to the transfer case and eventually back to the negative terminal of the battery. Not an uncommon thing to do on cars. But ... because my transfer case wasn't connected to the vehicle yet, those switches couldn't complete the circuit and connect to negative when actuated. This told the computer none of the switches were working so it couldn't work out where to drive the actuator! I note at 19:36 your transfer case has a braided strap which looks like an earth wire. Presuming that's connected to earth that's why yours worked when it was still 'off' the vehicle. Mine does not have that strap which is why mine didn't, and that may be a NW vs NT difference. Once I worked this out, I connected a jumper lead from the transfer case to the chassis and it worked. So basically if I HADN'T tested the case before installing it, it would have worked fine when I did!😆🙄 I hope this helps someone. Thanks again for such a helpful video, it gave me the confidence to tackle this myself when I wouldn't have otherwise. Cheers, Greg
Good spotting Greg and thanks for sharing. I’d love to know why the earth strap was deleted in later models (you can never have enough earths!). I’ve added text, into the captions, at that point in the video to remind of the earth and in the description =)
Great video mate! We need more people like you putting out quality videos for the pajero. My ns clunks when you throw the clutch under load and the mechanic thinks its coming from the transfer case. Ill drop the oil and see i guess.
I've always wondered what is under that hatch! Now I know - thanks for that. Unfortunately I have constructed a false floor over this part of the back of the Paj so doubly difficult to access now. Strange but I have never seen this on the Pajero Service Maintenance Schedule? Mines done 105k so will probably have to think about replacing it one day.
Bit late I know but you’re mental , I’d rather park it somewhere and leave the keys on the bonnet and hope some little scrotum would flog it and burn it. I’m sincerely jealous of your skills tho. Good work mate 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Hi, Thank you very much for this video! I have the exact same problem on the same model (Pajero NS 2008) and I'm very happy to better understand what is probably going wrong now ! :) I have some questions because I have other problems, and I don't know if they can be linked. So my speedosensor is not working for approximately 5000 km now. No speed on the odometer, he had some startles but not anymore. I have this little metalic noise sometimes, since I bought the car beginning of July, coming from under the car I'd say. Maybe because of teeth moving in the transfer case... I didn't notice at that time. 10k km ago, with the previous owner after changing the transfercase seal, a mechanic has written that there was some metal near the seal, and advise to check with a gearbox specialist. I can go to 4H and low/high too, but when I drive in 4H, I'm sure that after 1 or 2 minutes, the diff lock light will be flashing and all the wheel lights OFF. Also, I have the same diff lock light blinking with wheel lights OFF after driving above 80 kph for ~15 minutes. So, my questions are : Do you think that I certainly have some teeth broken in the transfer case, just like you, and I most likely have to change the transfer case ? And do you think that this diff lock light flashing could be caused by that as well, or is it most likely the solenoid behind the right headlight that I have to change, as I have seen in many videos on YT ? Thank you again for this great video! And sorry if my English doesn't look good, I've been in Australia just for a few months now :)
G’day, can you pull the speedo sensor out and inspect for damage? - easiest way to check for damage from broken teeth. If there is a problem or damage with the centre differential inside the transfer case, then it can cause issues which can show as the blinking light also.
Hi, thank you for answering. The mechanic pulled it out and it was damaged yes, much more than yours on your video... I'm about to buy a "new" transfer case to the wreckers now, 230k km on the clock. My Pajero is NS diesel automatic from march 2008. The transfer case is from a Pajero NS diesel automatic december 2007. It will suit my Pajero right?
Hi,just watched your video it was great,I've been chasing a rotational clonking sound from the rear end of my December 2006 built diesel auto pajero, i have replaced both wheel bearings, both axles,replaced the tailshaft,removed the diff and had new bearings fitted and the noise is still there.i am now going to remove the transfeer case and get it inspected, how much was the case from the wreckers,thanks again verry helpful video,date 24th of august 2023,regards Denis
Gday Denis, about $500 delivered back in 2020. It was a short lived purchase as when I replaced the transmission it had newer one attached. What is the rotational clonk? When does it happen? Is it speed or shock/bump related?
looks very similar to NP pajero in there even down to the broken white square clip MS480010 "mine broke too" when i went in there last week, back in there again to fit window regulator..yep 3week wait on that white OEM clip in meantime i made one up from some clips i bought on ebay years ago..reason i'm here is actually thinking about speaker replacement "mine got no tweeter" and did a you tube search and wolla we meet again mate..hehehehe..btw brilliant idea using the old speaker carrier..are yours 3way or 2way? thinking of these "Rockford Fosgate P1675 Punch 6.75" 3-Way Full-Range Speaker".
Ah that’s gold. I’m using 2-way component speakers - if you can mount the tweeter separately, this is better than 2-way / 3-way all-in-ones. Hey, you can use champion TF33 square screw grommets in place of the MS480010
@@TravelingBanker ahh thanks for the tip on the square grommet, we got a autobarn here that sells those tf33..cool..i see 2way..looks like i got wires 7 going up to power mirrors/top speaker grill is there but only 3 wires being used in the plug hmm..this glx is the poverty pack NP pajero, i dont mind that less to break down also LOL..
@@stigonutube I have the pov pack NS. Would you believe even in the rear doors the wires are there for the tweeters. I have a towing mirror video I haven’t posted yet that shows even the wiring is there for heated mirrors!
@@TravelingBanker hahaha imagine that heated mirrors in OZ, classic mate.. i will keep my eye on wiring inside barn door if i get in there, guess i will need a amp,not sure if i'm that keen to go back to my 20s doof doof, however front door tweeters YES..btw got the tf33 grommets this arvo 6.99 at autobarn for 6. i also got 2 oem coming soon.wink..
Great camera work there mate, my newly bought pajero NP 3.8l auto is making a rumbling bearing sound but i changed the front bearings and sound still there, do you know if that output shaft where relucter is has a bearing you showed always spinning when car drives and picks up speed..starts at 35kph and keeps getting louder rumble..got told that it's tyres when i bought car but hmmmm i smell a ratbag. any advise please.?
Thanks mate 👍 There is a bearing on the output shaft but rare for it to go bad Wouldnt rule out tyres or alignment. I had some noisy bfg’s with alignment wear that sounded like a rumble at lower speeds. Swapped them for yokohamas and it’s like a brand new car again.
@@TravelingBanker ahh ok Thank's for the tips mate, i will keep digging, tyres down to min wear about 4mm coopers on front..so that's next step i guess..if it was going to be a transfer bearing "that End one 6208N" would be doable for me lol but hey life don't work that way i guess.
@@TravelingBanker your spot on,never could i imagined rumbling that bad from tyres "coopers", 2 new tyres and wheel alignment most sounds GONE..well at least i got to experience wheel bearing hubs change on a pajero last week lol..what a C of a job when they stuck on with rust and looked like OEM ones from 2004..i'm on NSW east coast. next job cruise control not working and passenger window won't go down, joy of new ownership of 2x lady owner 4x4 cars on the plus side not had every bolt rounded off with vice grips LOL..
@@TravelingBanker umm lot's of other things like travel? OR?..got same tyres on rears today and 95% good now, it's an old NP pajero with 263,000 so doing quite well..
G’day, sorry, I don’t know much about previous model. The SWB models have the 12mm bolts in current gen - best to check part number against your VIN eg partsouq.com
Great video! I would never attempt this myself but it is great to see it done. I have an nx 2018 with the Aisin A/T and I'm encouraged by your comparison of it against the jatco... my impression is these pajeros are well built and will last if looked after... I had a nissan xtrail with the jatco cvt and it was pretty ordinary, noisy and not terribly responsive to driver input. Glad I'm rid of it.. 😅
Thanks Peter, they are well built but the NS model is a bit rough around the edges compared to the later models. I had an outlander with a CVT, similar experience! Next video will be the engine swap from an NX - stay tuned :)
Hello from Spain!!! I have 1 problem with my pulse rotor, it is scratched and deformed, there is no speed on the odometer. In the official diagram for Montero 2007 there is a description error and I always receive a different rotor. The MR367029 rotor has a single line of holes, , my rotor is the same as yours, 2 lines of holes. Please do you have the reference of your new rotor? Greetings and congratulations for the tutorial, it is very helpful. Tino Alba
G’day Tino, that part # is showing up in partsouq.com as for the front of the transfer case. The rear one for mine is MR486082 and you should check using your VIN on partsouq.com - hope this helps and all the best, will you check your speed sensor as well?
Did this last week, I found from past experience the easiest way to do the top bracket for the hinge mount is remove one bolt, put in the bracket on an angle loosely. The remove the second and line it up. I also left the factory holder in place. Did the same job on my Lancer years ago!
Hi Mate, very clear guide, thanks a lot. Could you also inform what’s the part number of the O ring seal? I think it’s better to replace it as well. Many thanks!
Great video, I was trying to find something that would show what was behind the rear cover as I have just replaced my rear tail shaft with a new after market shaft as mine had some play in the joint on the transfer case end. However i can still feel a slight vibration when driving or stationary. Checked it out again and found there seems to be some play side to side from the out put shaft so I'm hoping its the large bearing on the shaft behind that cover?? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Great video, and very detailed. Thanks mate
Hey mate, sounds unusual for the bearing.. how many k’s? Tracing vibrations can drive you bat sh!t crazy. When does it occur and from what end of the car - can a passenger sit elsewhere in the car and describe differently, etc. Is it speed or load related. I’ve seen causes everything from tyres, wheel alignment, ball joints, shock absorbers, cv joints, brake rotors, uni’s, diff angle, pinion bearing (either stuffed or just simply loose nut). Interested to hear how you go with it
does this apply to both gasoline and diesel? If not, please tell us wich one it is in the title so we don't need to look the video until 0:32 ;) This video did match my car!
@@TravelingBanker Keep on doing good videos. This did encourage me to do the same. My high pressure pump failed last year, and i replaced it (1600 euros :| ) haven't changed this yet. But i keep looking the main fuel filter. BTW the fuel level sensor, does it have own inspection hatch?
@@SergeyPRKL cheers mate. Fuel sender access should be forward from the fuel filter access, closer to the front seat. Supply pump is not cheap! I cracked a piston last year so next video is replacing engine with newer model engine and ECU.
Hi , good job. Next month I´ll swap a V5AWF (170.000 km few bad smell problems) with a newer V5AWF (30.000 km both from Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero 2016). I don´t have the transmission ECU for the new V5AWF. My questions to the expert: Can I expect problems with the Can Bus ? Will be necessary a ECU learning ? Many thanks.
Gday, sorry I missed your question. No dramas if its the same transmission. You can do an ECU relearn and covered here faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2013/23/html/M123114280001600ENG.HTM - once transmission is up to operating temp: In the 5th gear (D range) and with the throttle opening at 25 to 35%, drive until the vehicle speed becomes 80 km/h or more. Subsequently, release the accelerator pedal to decelerate, and stop the vehicle by taking 60 seconds or more. Repeat this process for 10 times. Check the shift shock is good, else repeat procedure.
Great job!!! Would you happen to know what inputs are required to make the original V5A51 transmission computer function correctly with the original transmission? Ie: in regard to an engine conversion on an '08 model, does the auto ecu just require throttle position from the pedal, vehicle speed sensor input and engine RPM siglal? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks mate. Does this link help? What is your project? faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2008_eur/23/html/M223010100020600ENG.HTM
