It all started with a faulty Vehicle Speed Sensor on a 2008 NS Mitsubishi Pajero (aka Montero aka Shogun) Transfer Case. [and as Greg pointed out in the comments - make sure your transfer case is earthed when testing]
Wicked video mate! Learned a whole heap of stuff from this video alone. Keep up the good work. That transfer actuator job doesn’t seem too stressful. Try pulling down an EA82 part time 4wd gearbox - the spring and dedent balls used in that setup are like a puzzle box! Thanks for sharing the video. 👍👍
Thanks mate, I’ve had a dual fuelled Pajero for nearly twenty years and this is by far the best thing I’ve seen on the transfer case set up. I’ve been trying to work out why there’s a whine starting in 4wd at higher speeds and this gives me a bit to work with.
Awesome video mate..👍 I'm about to do the exact same job, including fitting a transfer from an auto into a manual... I thought the front of case would have to be changed.. This video is priceless...👌👍
Great video mate! We need more people like you putting out quality videos for the pajero. My ns clunks when you throw the clutch under load and the mechanic thinks its coming from the transfer case. Ill drop the oil and see i guess.
Did you have any other symptoms of the planetary gear failing?? Mine is an 02 and it makes a shuttering and idle in gear at idle almost like its misfiring bit its clearly coming from the transfer case. I've had loads of electrical issues with the sensors all through the tranny and transfer case. Miss my good ole 89 Montero trying to find another one.
@@johnhayes9480 the first symptom was the cruise control not working and ultimately sourcing that issue to a worn sensor that shouldn’t physically wear..
I like this video as I have to remove my transfer soon making a bit of a whine but only in low range also I remove my actuator by taking all the cogs out of the box making sure everything is in the right spot when putting back together
Your video is very informative, thank you for sharing your experience. I'm experiencing an error code of C1453 SS4II Rear Wheel Speed Sensor on my 2011 NT 3.2 Manual and trying to find some answers.
Hi, Thank you very much for this video! I have the exact same problem on the same model (Pajero NS 2008) and I'm very happy to better understand what is probably going wrong now ! :) I have some questions because I have other problems, and I don't know if they can be linked. So my speedosensor is not working for approximately 5000 km now. No speed on the odometer, he had some startles but not anymore. I have this little metalic noise sometimes, since I bought the car beginning of July, coming from under the car I'd say. Maybe because of teeth moving in the transfer case... I didn't notice at that time. 10k km ago, with the previous owner after changing the transfercase seal, a mechanic has written that there was some metal near the seal, and advise to check with a gearbox specialist. I can go to 4H and low/high too, but when I drive in 4H, I'm sure that after 1 or 2 minutes, the diff lock light will be flashing and all the wheel lights OFF. Also, I have the same diff lock light blinking with wheel lights OFF after driving above 80 kph for ~15 minutes. So, my questions are : Do you think that I certainly have some teeth broken in the transfer case, just like you, and I most likely have to change the transfer case ? And do you think that this diff lock light flashing could be caused by that as well, or is it most likely the solenoid behind the right headlight that I have to change, as I have seen in many videos on YT ? Thank you again for this great video! And sorry if my English doesn't look good, I've been in Australia just for a few months now :)
G’day, can you pull the speedo sensor out and inspect for damage? - easiest way to check for damage from broken teeth. If there is a problem or damage with the centre differential inside the transfer case, then it can cause issues which can show as the blinking light also.
Hi, thank you for answering. The mechanic pulled it out and it was damaged yes, much more than yours on your video... I'm about to buy a "new" transfer case to the wreckers now, 230k km on the clock. My Pajero is NS diesel automatic from march 2008. The transfer case is from a Pajero NS diesel automatic december 2007. It will suit my Pajero right?
It’s very useful tutorial video. And wondering the transmission breather which you mentioned, any change you can show where it is come from the transmission?
good video! I wanted to ask you something. I have the same car and the transfer is making a little noise when it goes slow in traffic and in first gear. means something? I just changed the entire transmission and I'm still under warranty, but the repair was on the transmission and not the transfer. They tell me they refilled the transfer fluid with new oil but I've never had that little noise before. could it be something dangerous?
Thanks mate Hey what happened to the transmission? And are there any noises when shifting through the 4wd modes? Check the oil level in the transfer or drain it and check if any bits in the oil
Nice video! Was it driving normally, in all 4x4 modes before you decides to look at it? Mine goes into all 4 modes, sometimes with centre diff light flashing because it couldn't engage... But when it does, it drives around fine, no special noise. Slight tapping in second gear under acceleration, which I can't localise... It also says rear and front output shaft speed sensor error... I hope that it's not the same outcome😅
Mine was normal except for the cruise control not working and after that the centre diff bound up when I was testing through the modes and then it went out with a bang. You could check the operation of the free wheel clutch system, on the front diff (vacuum lines and actuator, solenoids, detection switch on the diff)
great video. since I chagend my 2011 pajero transfert case to a 2003 modek transfert case, my speedometer dosent work, neither the RPM gage. also, I cant lock the différentiel neither go to LOW. I can hear the actuator going halfway through the coming back ( only hear) the sound is smooth between 2H and 4H. I really dont know what to do next, and I really need that differential locked a lot of times.
Great video, I was trying to find something that would show what was behind the rear cover as I have just replaced my rear tail shaft with a new after market shaft as mine had some play in the joint on the transfer case end. However i can still feel a slight vibration when driving or stationary. Checked it out again and found there seems to be some play side to side from the out put shaft so I'm hoping its the large bearing on the shaft behind that cover?? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Great video, and very detailed. Thanks mate
Hey mate, sounds unusual for the bearing.. how many k’s? Tracing vibrations can drive you bat sh!t crazy. When does it occur and from what end of the car - can a passenger sit elsewhere in the car and describe differently, etc. Is it speed or load related. I’ve seen causes everything from tyres, wheel alignment, ball joints, shock absorbers, cv joints, brake rotors, uni’s, diff angle, pinion bearing (either stuffed or just simply loose nut). Interested to hear how you go with it
Great video mate, I followed this procedure today. BUT... can I please add one really important detail please which may affect people with a NW like me and possibly NX? This is no fault of yours, but this little difference cost me a whole day thinking my 'new' case was faulty when it wasn't. TLDR: Make sure the transfer case is earthed to the chassis before testing the 4WD modes or it won't work properly. At 19:35 when you're testing the 4WD switches before installing the case: I did what you showed, but got a centre diff light flashing only. The actuator sounded like it tried to move and couldn't, like it was jammed. "Phew thanks Traveling Banker for getting me to test this beforehand!" I thought. I pulled it all back down (2 hour job with three small jacks), changed over the actuator from my old case, put it back up in position, another two hours, same thing! When I knew that actuator worked! And the mechanism worked too! The problem was that the five 4WD switches on top of the case only have one wire going to them - the other side of the switch just connects to the body of the switch, to the transfer case and eventually back to the negative terminal of the battery. Not an uncommon thing to do on cars. But ... because my transfer case wasn't connected to the vehicle yet, those switches couldn't complete the circuit and connect to negative when actuated. This told the computer none of the switches were working so it couldn't work out where to drive the actuator! I note at 19:36 your transfer case has a braided strap which looks like an earth wire. Presuming that's connected to earth that's why yours worked when it was still 'off' the vehicle. Mine does not have that strap which is why mine didn't, and that may be a NW vs NT difference. Once I worked this out, I connected a jumper lead from the transfer case to the chassis and it worked. So basically if I HADN'T tested the case before installing it, it would have worked fine when I did!😆🙄 I hope this helps someone. Thanks again for such a helpful video, it gave me the confidence to tackle this myself when I wouldn't have otherwise. Cheers, Greg
Good spotting Greg and thanks for sharing. I’d love to know why the earth strap was deleted in later models (you can never have enough earths!). I’ve added text, into the captions, at that point in the video to remind of the earth and in the description =)
Did you have to reset the ECU transfer through OBD?? I replaced my transfer for a reconditioned one and now the transfer ECU is always in “fail mode” with the central lock light blinking and all the green lights off. It remains in 4wd and dont let me do nothing. I have checked all the sensors and seems fine. Dont know if new transfer needs some type of calibration. Thanks!
Cruise control stopped working.. traced that to the vehicle speed sensor and then noticed the transfer case wasnt shifting smoothly between 4wd modes.. it got stuck in one of the 4wd modes, bound up and went bang.
Great video! Do you by any chance know if it's possible to fit the factory diff lock from a 2001~2006 to a 2016 that came without one? I know there are aftermarket options, but getting the parts from an scrapped montero would be WAY cheaper for me. Keep up the good work!
G’day, I don’t know about this one. There’s some interchangeable bits between the models. If the ratio is the same you might be able to use the whole diff but drive shafts are different (likely use the diff lock version shafts for your model). A few pieces to unlock.
Hi,just watched your video it was great,I've been chasing a rotational clonking sound from the rear end of my December 2006 built diesel auto pajero, i have replaced both wheel bearings, both axles,replaced the tailshaft,removed the diff and had new bearings fitted and the noise is still there.i am now going to remove the transfeer case and get it inspected, how much was the case from the wreckers,thanks again verry helpful video,date 24th of august 2023,regards Denis
Gday Denis, about $500 delivered back in 2020. It was a short lived purchase as when I replaced the transmission it had newer one attached. What is the rotational clonk? When does it happen? Is it speed or shock/bump related?
Great camera work there mate, my newly bought pajero NP 3.8l auto is making a rumbling bearing sound but i changed the front bearings and sound still there, do you know if that output shaft where relucter is has a bearing you showed always spinning when car drives and picks up speed..starts at 35kph and keeps getting louder rumble..got told that it's tyres when i bought car but hmmmm i smell a ratbag. any advise please.?
Thanks mate 👍 There is a bearing on the output shaft but rare for it to go bad Wouldnt rule out tyres or alignment. I had some noisy bfg’s with alignment wear that sounded like a rumble at lower speeds. Swapped them for yokohamas and it’s like a brand new car again.
@@TravelingBanker ahh ok Thank's for the tips mate, i will keep digging, tyres down to min wear about 4mm coopers on front..so that's next step i guess..if it was going to be a transfer bearing "that End one 6208N" would be doable for me lol but hey life don't work that way i guess.
@@TravelingBanker your spot on,never could i imagined rumbling that bad from tyres "coopers", 2 new tyres and wheel alignment most sounds GONE..well at least i got to experience wheel bearing hubs change on a pajero last week lol..what a C of a job when they stuck on with rust and looked like OEM ones from 2004..i'm on NSW east coast. next job cruise control not working and passenger window won't go down, joy of new ownership of 2x lady owner 4x4 cars on the plus side not had every bolt rounded off with vice grips LOL..
@@TravelingBanker umm lot's of other things like travel? OR?..got same tyres on rears today and 95% good now, it's an old NP pajero with 263,000 so doing quite well..
Hello! I have just come from the workshop and my Mitsubishi has exactly the same thing. How this failure could have happened. I almost always drive in 2H. My car has 70,000km. How could it happen? thanks so much
Not the first case I've heard of either but I don't know if it is a widespread issue. My transmission started having problems around the same time (another video coming, on how I fixed this) The engine has been tuned: maybe I overloaded something at one point but I don't have a specific event to pin this on.
I wish I had the answer. Started having trouble with the torque converter around the same time. I don't even have a specific event to suggest how it happened.
Is that the viscous coupler he pull out at 15:19 if anyone can tell me thanks I'm looking for these super select 4WD II to see how it really is inside Thanks for the video
That is indeed the viscous coupler. You’ll note there is a shaft within a shaft - the middle one is the transfer input shaft and the outer one is the sun gear for the planetary gear set that distributes the torque. Have you read this resource faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2011/22/html/M222000800022100ENG.HTM
Hey, just out of curiousity (may have been said in video and i missed it) what was the original problem? Im having an issue with my nx atm that i cant engage 4hlc or 4llc. replaced all 5 switches and the actuator on the case. Could posibly be simillar to this, Thanks Nick.
It would shift through the modes OK but the cruise control wasn’t working. Then one day, whilst I was troubleshooting, I managed to bind up the centre diff - couldn’t get it to shift out of 4LLC and car didn’t want to move. Tried rocking it back and forth and then it went bang. What are the error codes? The shift to 4HLC/4LLC needs the differential lock hub to engage, so if there is a problem there it could prevent selection of 4HLC/4LLC.
@@nickwoods3039 C1456 can relate to an issue in the transfer switch circuit - one or multiple switches not reporting the position correctly. A couple of questions: is the earth strap connected between the transfer case and the chassis? Can you hear the actuator moving when selecting between modes? After that, you should check you have power to the switches and the continuity of the switches at each mode.
not sure about the earth strap, but definetly can hear the actuator moving for all modes. Where would i measure the voltage on the switch? and from which 2 points do i measure the continuity
Thanks. Now I understand how this system works. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited, 3.8L, 217,000 miles. I've also got the infamous Differential Lock orange blinking light that would come and go for months and eventually stayed, and DTC 33 when I read the codes by jumping pins 1 & 4 on the OBD2 plug and counting the blinks. I also had codes 34 and 35 but after swapping the Freewheel Clutch Solenoid and disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes, the 34/35 codes went away and only 33 remains...the center orange light blinking and no control of the system remain also. The ground cable on the transfer case is good. All device plugs, vacuum hoses and wires are connected, clean and tight. Voltage reads 10.8-volts from each of the switches' harnesses with the ignition key On. I'm trying to figure out which Transfer Position Switch(s) (1 thru 5) is actually bad, before dropping the t-case to swap all 5 of them out. I want to be sure something else is not the issue making it look as of the switches are bad, as I hate swapping parts and doing unnecessary labor. I'm suspicious because I know the clutch solenoids were bad because I tested them, but I doubt they went bad, plus a t-case switch also...as in simultaneously. Maybe so, maybe not. I have a test light probe and a digital voltmeter/ohmmeter. Is there a test procedure to test each switch before dropping the t-case and removing them to be sure it is a switch (or maybe two) and not another issue? Thanks!
33 is usually a switch. Does it happen in 2H or one / all of the other modes? You should be getting battery voltage at each of the connectors on the switch harness. You can test the continuity/resistance of each switch - if you find a bad one, makes sense to replace all of them (you can do it without taking the case out). Have a look here - faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2007/2007/22/html/M1220110092503ENG.HTM
@@TravelingBanker yeah, I'll replace all of them if one is bad I just want to be sure one is actually bad first. There's only 10.8v at each plug when I test at their plugs, key On. I was curious why only 10.8v, vs 12ish. All 5 are all consistent. It gives the error 33 and blinking orange light in all t-case modes. It's either stuck in 4H or 2H mode presently. I read somewhere they default to 4H mode when it fails, and I think I am in 4H because I'm not slipping on the mud and snow. But I haven't verified. Did you test for resistance of each switch before removing them? How do you do that test?
@@thesetruths1404 10.8v is OK but not for all of them because when a switch is operated it grounds/earths to the transfer case, which should bring the voltage for that switch down to about 1v. You can test each switch (ignition OFF) by disconnecting the plugs at the transfer case and measure the continuity / resistance between the plug on the transfer case and the transfer case (earth). If you are in 2H then the 2H switch should be 2Ω or less (i.e. dead short) but if you are in 4H (or any other mode) it should be open circuit. Looking from the back of the transfer case, the 2H switch is on the right hand side, it is the left plug, up the top
@@TravelingBanker thanks. I ohm tested the 3 switches on the left side of the t-case (if looking at it from the rear) and all of those 3 read 1,600 to 1,800 ohms. That was with the ignition off. I will access the two one the right side and test them as well. The test procedures I read with the ohm checks say this has to be done with a gadget connected to the obd plug under the driver's side. It does something to turn off the voltage I think so the switches can have their resistance checked with the key On and the vehicle t-case lever in certain places. I didn't think it worked otherwise. Maybe it does.
@@thesetruths1404 the 3 on the left are: centre diff lock switch; 4H switch; 2wd/4WD detection switch - in 2H mode, the first 2 on the left should be open circuit and the 3rd one should be 2Ω or less. Can you hear the actuator motor moving when you move the transfer lever? If you have the Mitsubishi diagnostic (MUT-3) then use the test method you mentioned for the switches.. if not, then its a little more tedious - turn key on, move the selector, turn key off, test the switches for that mode (i.e. 2H).. and then repeat (4H and then 4HLc and then 4LLc)
Hello from Spain!!! I have 1 problem with my pulse rotor, it is scratched and deformed, there is no speed on the odometer. In the official diagram for Montero 2007 there is a description error and I always receive a different rotor. The MR367029 rotor has a single line of holes, , my rotor is the same as yours, 2 lines of holes. Please do you have the reference of your new rotor? Greetings and congratulations for the tutorial, it is very helpful. Tino Alba
G’day Tino, that part # is showing up in partsouq.com as for the front of the transfer case. The rear one for mine is MR486082 and you should check using your VIN on partsouq.com - hope this helps and all the best, will you check your speed sensor as well?
@@EWOverland the speed sensors in the rear housing were physically damaged but there was no other damage in the rear housing, suggesting something was wrong in the main transfer case.
@@TravelingBanker Well done,do you know what might have caused damage?I have 2003 NP exceed will this same thing happen just wann make sure I don't do anything that could cause this kind of damage 🙂
@@xboxice2005 the replacement was from an NP. They are the same box. Mechanical sympathy should give long life. I exceeded a design limit somewhere - I just can’t pinpoint it (2019 was Simpson desert trip in July followed by towing camper trailer through NSW in Sept including up Blue Mountains.. problems surfaced nov/dec and culminated around march 2020)
@@brandongoberdhan6335 i don’t know your model. Have a look here at the wiring diagrams. If in doubt, check with an auto electrician faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2008_eur/index_M2.htm
Awesome video. Have the same issue with my NT manual.. seems like its a very common fault... might be why Mitsubishi are not keen to help me. Sadly mines a manual so very hard to find a transfer case at the wreckers. Curious about the tone ring change.. is that the only difference between a petrol/diesel version? Wondering if that's the only difference for manual/diesel as well?
There are different part #s for the input shaft gear of the transfer case, to account for the differing output shafts from the transmission options. I’ve not done it, but you may be able to swap the input gear across from your case to one from an automatic model, as per here faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2010/22/html/M122200910010500ENG.HTM
Same prob with my 2011 paj, 3.2did, all stock, and i noticed small slips between gear changes, went to change the oil in my transfer case an on the magnet seal there were small gear chunks, then i opened the case and saw the same thing as you did but i bit less damage... idk why this happened but mybe previous owner went through all drive modes while driving...
@@patakdaca928 4H is the only mode the centre differential is working. I tow in 4H, as recommended.. maybe driveline shocks in 4H damage the centre differential? I don’t know.
@@TravelingBanker My mechanic said its probably due to bad usage of the super-select leaver, menaing that the last owner tried or was shifting to 4hlc and 4llc while moving and by force, and therefore one gear chiped a bit and than that piece slowly damaged all the gears more and more until they all fail. Idk is that the cause, but sure is wierd knowing that those gears are ment to be solid as rock...
@@TravelingBanker Its little bit tricky, but could posiible, you have to unplug connectors, then remove cover (plastic) of actuator, inside is 4 gears, I painted marks on them and remove them, then remove 3 bolts of actuator and remove whole actuator, inside transfercase is shaft and it has grove, where is connected small shaft, which is in actuator, so if you remove actuator this shaft is still connected with shaft in transfercase, then change O ring and put together in oposite way ( removing ).
