A little update for some people attempting this with the 314mm rotor, it will RUB against the caliper, there is a spacer that no one really tells you about that is placed at the wheel hub to give you the necessary offset to clear the caliper and center the rotor. Stainless Steel Brembo Caliper Hub Spacer CED2708 or you can find a member ace9-5 on SaabCentral, he'll make spacers.
Do Not remove the hub via Allen bolts. Disconnect the shaft by holding the acc gear shaft in place with a wrench and loosening the hub with a wrench on the compressor side. Do Not rotate the shaft. Always grease the shaft splines with high end lithium grease for splines 0:26 . The shaft simply pulls out. The compressor is removed without removing the water pump - rotating the compressor left and right while pulling for clearance. You Must remove coolant tank and dip-stick tube. Pull the orifice tube/restrictor and inspect for debris, If it’s completed coated replace rec/dryer and condenser after flushing all lines and evap. If no debris , the new compressor comes prefilled so do the math for oil balance when replacing just the compressor. The steps mentioned here are not “tricks”, they are the official Audi procedure.
Do you know if the shaft can be pulled out without removing the compressor? Just to more or less bypass the ac until I can get around to replacing it? The compressor is whining and I want to drive the car some before I replace the compressor.
@@TheRockstarJay You can. Loosen the shaft from the compressor. Important! Turn the 19mm nut on the compressor while keeping the 17 mm (shaft) stationary - do NOT turn the shaft to loosen. Rotate the compressor head to loosen it from the shaft. Then push the shaft forward into the acc gear. Remove the head on the compressor side (allen bolts). that should give you enough room to remove the shaft. If you are going to drive without the shaft - squirt some lithium grease in the hole and plug it with rubber or silicon plug..
@@9line5 thank you! I’ve been searching all over for an answer online to no avail haha! I got the car and drove it for a week and the compressor started whining. I just want to enjoy it while the weather is nice until I decide to tackle it.
Thankyou thankyou thankyou about pushing the tab up to pop off the shade! Finally my regulator replacement can continue! Yours is the 4th I've found mentioning the tab, but the only one to correctly advise to push it UP!!!!!!
hey wow am I late to this video, was just wondering if all u need is the bumper or are there any other pieces that need to be changed along with the bumper to make sure everything fits tightly
you didn't mention there are 2 screws holding the mirror cover, maybe there's a difference between euro and us versions? It should hold on clips alone perhaps (we'll see) but I screwed up my "screw holes" whatever they are called
For any of you who don't think it is working, particularly the part where you press the garage door remote button, you REALLY need to stand near that sensor and move the opener ridiculously close. Nearly touch the bumper. It should be that easy. (You may have to press a learn button on your garage door opener itself after doing these steps, the press the button in the car for that door.)
I will check this tonight thank you I'm about to check combi valves and smoke test my car. Hope this is my issue. Was frosty around here this time of year. Hoping I just shorted a fuse I'm getting same codes and don't think I have a vac leak
I know this video is old, but I was wondering is that Intercooler a little big for a stage 1 tune Saab 9-3 2.0T? Plan going stage 2 next year with bigger injector and DP
There's a reason that the fuse blows. Often times it because of the defective wiring which goes to the pump. The red and brown plastic covering on the wires disintegrates and shorts the wires, causing the fuse to blow. This is a very common known issue. You should remove some of the wire wrap and check the wires. It will probably be cracked from the fuse box to the pump (red), and from the pump to the ground on the firewall (brown).
Many years and miles later and the fuse is still going strong. I think it was because water/then turned to ice and got built up in the pump and blew the fuse that I replaced. No issues since then.
@@beaulamper3558 It's quite possible in your case, but the wiring issue is something which I believe affects every single B6 S4. I wish I could post photos on here. There are a couple of write-ups on Audi forums about it.
@@beaulamper3558I hope this is my issue car started and ran fine then while driving this showed up for me. It's been 1 degrees out where I live tho. Water re freezes pretty fast. Hopefully that is my issue. Will be checking fuse tonight.
