Got to the solenoid and jumped across it. Started and ran for 15 or 20 seconds and died. Dash lights were going crazy. Didn't attempt a restart. Any ideas?
Man, great video! Went to fire my 2012 up yesterday, turn the key, nothing. The battery is new, but I've got a phantom draw somewhere. Anyway, have to charge it occasionally. Did that and discoverer the issue. Not sure I can handle the starter job (old and feeble) but maybe I can check out the solenoid. I learned a tremendous amount watching your video. Wish we could've seen some detail on plastics removal. I think I saw enough watching you put them back on to realize I probably won't be able to tackle it. Btw, I have a ton of missing body screws. The ones I'm finding online are really expensive. Tried to match them up at the hardware store but not having much luck. Do I just need to mussel up and pay the ransom from Kawasaki? Thanks for your help.
Hey man thanks for posting got a question i have a '13 assault 155. Thinking the bottom end is shot possibly main crank bearings. What were some of the symptoms your sled was having which led you to tear the engine down. Mine has become incredibly hard to roll over. My son who is a big guy has a hard time pulling the cord. Its not smooth, quite jerky like in 6 or 8 inch increments throughout each pull. Thanks any additional info will help. I had no time to look into it last ride and its kept up in Northern ontario not close to me.
My machine suffered a rod bearing failure that was caused by a lean burn due to mag side main seal failure. The first indication of a problem was higher than normal rpm due to the lean fuel mix. Your problem sounds a lot different. Hard to pull over could be bad main bearings from corrosion or even a bent crank. Could also be something else along the power train like seized brake caliper or bearing in the chain case.
With 2 stroke engines the intake process actually draws the fuel mixture through the crank case below then into the combustion chamber above the piston. If a crank seal is leaking then then air gets sucked in through the leak on the intake stroke. This changes the air/fuel mixture causing a lean burn in one cylinder. This will run hotter than wanted plus, because 2 strokes are lubricated by the fuel mixture, you get a situation of lower lubrication combined with higher heat. Then bearing start to fail.
@tracksnwheels I purchased a 2016 Polaris Rush Pro s 800 about a week ago, and got burned on the deal. More than likely I will be rebuilding the motor. There are so many different rebuild kits, that I am having a hard time deciding what to go with.
I have the back section of my rzr off, and I wanna go ahead and lower it like this, but would it be way off when I put it back on? I know most people do it on the rzr and pull an tweak to match it up .. in my head, I'm thinking, cut the bars, lower it, and then bolt it to the front section of the cage first, then just pull the back down? Would that be easier, or am I way off track?
The problem is that the rear main hoop is wider at the bottom than at the top, so, when you cut out the middle section the remaining top and bottom no longer match up. The bottom needs to be squeezed together and the top needs to be spread apart to match up properly. There are lots of ways to achieve this, it all depends on what tools you have available, but in most cases having the cage on the machine is the only way to get the leverage needed to do while making sure the attachment points don't drift away from where they need to be.
Check that you are getting power from the key to the solenoid. If power is there when you turn the key then it's most likely a bad solenoid and needs replacing.
Hi there, Cool video, I picked up a 22 XCR this spring in the same color with red components all over, love it. It came with the glove box liner. I didn’t realize this problem existed, since I haven’t ridden yet. Good to know and I’ll make the adjustments as per your suggestions. I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks, I’m SO Excited to ride this winter. I’m 8 miles from Canada right at the trail head. Sounds like your from Canada or Minnesota with the way you said “about”. Thanks! Enjoy!
The battery turns the machine over just fine but there is a trick to starting in temps below -5. Check out my follow-up video for a better idea of how it worked out for me last season. Thanks for watching! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vd6Pd3-5BVc.html
DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT. It's a SCAM. NOCO will not return my email request for support. Walmart will not allow return on it. It is"Non-returnable" And the NOCO website will not give you a refund if you bought it at walmart. Plus you have to pay 12 dollars recycling fee if you buy the little battery without an exchange MOST IMPORTANTLY NOCO says you will void the warranty if you try to charge it with anything other than THEIR chargers.
It wasn't hard. Just fill the block before putting the thermostat back on and fill the hoses too. Fill the charge tank and when you start running crack the bleed screw on the thermostat housing until the air is out. Your charge tank should drop after running and you may need to top it up. Put your hand on the rear heat exchanger to see if its getting hot. If not raise the front end a bit and keep bleeding.
Are these the scratchers you got? SPI supplies them for Doo: 15-64031 (Assuming they were the right size), would the holders that come with them mount where you pointed out no problem? Thanks!
The spi kit i used is for doo but the 1 rig adapters make them fit poo matryx skid with no drilling required. I don't think there is enough material to on the matryx skid to mount the springs without the adapters. The hangers that come with the spi kit for stowing them in the up position can be used but would need drilling. The location I mounted mine is working fine but I would probably go a bit lower if I did it again. The torsion springs are just touching the hangers at full compression.
Thanks for the video! I have A XC 137" When you say "i'd prolly go a bit lower" Don't you mean a bit higher? to clear aforementioned spring that obviously slides ahead and sort of levels out as it does? this In regards to the spring in the >stowed< position?@@tracksnwheels
Sorry for the delay. I didnt see this question. You are correct. Higher is better. Where I have mine the springs just kiss the hangers. 1/2" higher would have been better.
Did relocate the snorkels? If so is there any way you still have the old stock piping? I have been hunting someone that is parting out a highlifter or something so I can get the factory highlifter snorkels off so I put them on my xp turbo. I know it’s a long shot but I figured I’d ask lol. I’ll take whatever you have left of what you took off!! Thanks
Those AMPS ARE FALSE CLAIM! This battery cannot provide 500A under any temperature condition and any given time NLP14 can peak at 280A Some of my customers have these batteries self discharge in a manner of days You gotta be lucky to buy the right batch
I had an Earth X lithium battery for 3 seasons in my 2020 Ski-Doo Summit. I would definitively buy another one if I didn't have the SHOT now. The only time I needed to "heat" my battery was at -25 Celcius and colder. On these cold days, I sometimes needed to try 2 or 3 times like you did in your video. I remember one time that I had to try it about 4-5 times before it finally started but it was an exceptionally cold that morning. Note that I didn't had the recoil starter on my Summit otherwise I would had simply pull start it. I know the E-tec engine start really easily so maybe that help but I think the battery has to do a lot with it.
I have found that -5c or lower the first 1 or 2 attempts to start will fail. I think it has a lot to do with the protection circuit built into the battery. It's probably less noticeable on a machine with less electronics but on my vr1 it causes the 7s display to restart, which gets annoying. Ive effectively ended up using it like a skidoo "Shot" system. I pull the first start of the day, and then its button starts for the rest of the day.
Started in Gunter then headed to McCarthers Mills across to Griffith up to Eganville and over to Wilno then back through Barry's Bay, Combermere, Manooth, Bancroft..
Awesome, we have family in Pet and Deep river and road a lot there last year ,mostly north to Mattawa,we have a cottage in Dwight where we set up every Feb and are trying to see how the ride from there to Deep river would go . Dwight to Whitney was alright . Traveled through this area to Wilno and up through round lake when traveling to visit . Love the Madawaska valley area. What type of trails would you say they are . Dwight /Muskoka is tight twisty . A trail Pet to Mattawa is more wide open with some fun bush as well. great vid man. .looking forward to exploring there. cheers
I used that wiseco fix kit on mine this year too. Seems good, was a great price at Royal Distributing. I’ve put about 300 kms on it. It’s just a spare sled . What do you think of the VR1 ?
You are correct. I was speaking from my experience with LiPo rc batteries but I've read that LiFePO4 Iron phosphate batteries are much easier to store.
