What an amazing tip. I've been cranking wrenches for almost 40 years and never thought of such a simple idea. It just goes to show you never stop learning.
The best way is to join Powerstroke.org and once a member, you can initiate a private conversation or start a post and get input from everyone. I've rebuilt only one 6.0L, so I may not have all the answers.
I wish the fuel filters weren’t so expensive. Plus there are Chinese made counterfeits all over the internet. Also when you remove the cover you must plug all the fuel lines or the fuel can siphon out of the tank until your tank is empty.
DieselFilterOnline or RockAuto, either Motorcraft or Racor; Racor is the filter manufacturer that sells to Ford. If you are draining fuel from the tank, the anti-siphon valve (blue inside the filter area) is not working.
Good catch. One comes from the International manual, and the other from the Ford manual. The Ford manual has you sequence the two next to each other before going to the opposite side, the International goes across sides, back and forth. I've never found an answer for which is the better way.
My earlier video, which was the basis for this one, goes through all of that: Powerstroke 6.0L Electrical System Negative / Grounding locations ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QYM-KD5vNWM.html
I proceeded with doing this and I've noticed some fall off at the edges of the cylinder bores and large hole features... Seems like the paper is sagging in the middle or pushing out at the corners where it folds, applying additional pressure to edges. Wondering if you noticed this when doing your block?
First, are you using a hard, flat surface for the paper to ride on? The surface must be free of any give, and the paper should be relatively tight. And the surface has to be as flat as you are trying to achieve. ANY convex or concave bow will cause an issue. The second is technique. You want to keep at or preferably below 50% of the tool from going past the edge of the block, and while going over the edge, put more pressure on the rear that is still over the block. In one video, I mentioned hand sanding vereer plywood being a good teaching tool. If you subconsciously push down in front or "roll over" the edge, you will get more abrasion at the edges. Superduty Service has a video of him using a bodywork air sander, which has a rubber surface between the paper and the bedplate. If you look closely at the block he does, you can see the falloff, the edges, and the cylinder. That is not what you want, and I would also not recommend the technique. I did have one corner of the block that rolled over. I noted it in the video where I used tracing paper to evaluate head-to-block contact. I mentioned it probably where I got lazy in my technique. However, it was the edge of the block, not at the seal around the cylinders, and the gasket would be compliant to make that seal. It's been fine for two years. It was also under 0.0002" fall off, even though the tracing/transfer paper showed it.
Sorry, at this time, I'm not. I spend an hour for the Version 3 and almost 3 hours to get the Version 6 made and get them in the mailbox. I never had the intent of making money with these, but I don't have the time right now to do these, or to buy all the components and wait months to recoup my outlay. Maybe in the future if I have enough people on a wait list I may do it again.
Once I found out this crankshaft was mis-ground (later video) and started the replacement of the crank (another video), I found the anaerobic sealer did not fully cure everywhere I put it. Talking to Permatex initially, they said I did not need to use the primer, and during the second call, this was not the proper application for the anaerobic. I did not have an issue with the TA-31, which is made for use with HEIU engines and has the best grab of any RTV I've ever used.
So if you were to summarize what your findings were for the best possible setup of ground cables what would it be? I commented on your video that preceded this one with the issues I am experiencing.
I just responded - sometimes I don't get to RU-vid for a few days. It depends if you are enhancing the stock cabling, or going to redesign the entire system. For the FICM, running an 8ga wire from the driver's negative post to the FICM and PCM ground points should be done. If looking at ground cables only, the next would be a 1/0 cable from where the drivers ground cable connects to the frame rail, and run that to a point on the engine block. I have two other designs I plan to test in the future, but I got a lot in my way before that.
Looks like I'm going down the rabbit hole..... Had a hard rain yesterday and drove the truck 3-4 hours. Today no rain and now I have 4 fault codes (B1318, P0276, P0278, P0341) 3 of the 4 (B1318, P0276, P0341) are related to low voltage. I just installed a new 130 amp alternator with the smaller pulley and output at idle is ~14 volts. After the 4 hour driving yesterday and about 1 hour drive time today batteries are reading ~11.3 volts before cranking the engine. I know that anything under 12.6V can harm the FICM. Additionally, about a month ago I had the cab lifted about 6 inches to get the turbo out and install S&B body mounts, so I definitely need to check those flat braided cables.
With the draw of the glow plugs, that's a common voltage before hitting the starter. If you look at some of the graphs when I did alternator testing, you can see how the voltage changes during the "wait-to-start" point to when the glow plugs turn off.
@@toomanytoys Thanks for the reply! As an admission of me not being observant I have seen many of your 6.0 Videos, and have read many of your posts on FTE over the last couple years, but just put it all together this morning as I am reading one of your threads on FTE that all of it was you!
@@toomanytoys I had my engine "bullet proofed" by a local shop about 2 years ago and after I got it back I had 2 dead batteries, and within a month 2 burned (yes burned like scorched) Warren injectors, and have been chasing electrical gremlins since.... I've not taken the truck back to them as they caused more harm to my truck than good and I no longer trust them. After recently having a Cyl. 6 Imbalance code I replaced my FICM harness, VGT solenoid, and cleaned the inner turbo exhaust housing and replaced the unison ring as it had a "keyhole" going on, and did a couple pigtail fixes on some cracked wiring while I had it all apart. I'm at the point right now that I just want to redo as much of the wiring as I can and trying to get the ground issues fixed first.
I actually just did this for my 02 F350 xl. I tied into my dome lights. Theres a black with blue tracer wire there as well. But this looks easier. My only question is: when you open say just the driver door, do all of the door panel lights come on?
When you made this video three years ago, the only people I ever watched on RU-vid doing something like this were BS backyard. No one was using a profilometer to check the surface finish or show flatness, and no one really mentioned how critical surface finish is. Today, in 2024, I've found Powerstroke "Pros" using the method, although I would say not to the detail you have documented, and I don't think they know what they are doing. And I've seen shops and mechanics openly commenting they have 'sanded' decks where they never admitted it before. Thanks for making these videos and showing the way. It's still the most professional way I've watched.
Dealing with this right now and I've known there is some sort of battery issue. It's below freezing in Wyoming. Just got the truck out of the shop and two days later it was chugging and in a no start condition. I have two brand new batteries on the truck, but noticed corrosion on the passenger side positive cable. The lights flicker at night, especially under load. Great video! Now I have a place to start tracking this down.
If you are talking about the images at 34:36, those images came from Pete, and the problem part and the new part were both from a Ford dealer and how the seal was installed at the factory.
@toomanytoys outch had mine installed the other way for about a year on my 7.3 until I looked at the poppet career it has a 45 cut into it that matches up with the 45 on the seat.I you install it backwards like me there is nothing to guide the seat into the carrier.
Love the deep dive into this subject. It’s something I’ve been looking into since purchasing my 05 Excursion two years ago. Your theory about it not being a bolt issue confirms my suspicion that “studs fix the HGs” is a flawed premise. My trucks was going on 296k with stock HG and bolts and never tuned. Only mod being an external oil cooler kit. Currently rebuilding it after finding one bent pushrod while tearing it down to fix an oil leak from the rocker housing gaskets. It still had the original length pushrods in it but with no lifter failure.
When the gaskets first started to fail, many did the Ford clean to the heads and installed the studs. If they still ran the tune, 20,000 to 25,000 miles later, many blew the gaskets again. When I talked to ARP, they stated the standard studs clamp load, preload, was about the same as the stock bolts, so there was no real difference in clamping pressure. Yet, those who had the heads milled flat had no issue. So studs didn't fix it, no-tunes or well-tuned trucks did have issues, and milled-flat heads were fine. The head bolts clamp down 4x the stock combustion pressure, a 4x1 safety factor. They are not going to stretch. If it sat for a while, one of the valve guides may have hung a valve, letting the lifter pump up on the next revolution and probably a light tap on the piston, enough to bend the pushrod. But pushrods are supposed to be the safety fuse in the valvetrain.
@@toomanytoys that’s a very possible explanation for the pushrod. We don’t drive the truck everyday and generally only use it when my whole family of 6 needs to go somewhere together. Unfortunitly the pushrod rubbed on the inside of the head and put some metal shaving through the oil. Found scaring on the LPOP, main and rod bearings. So it’s a full rebuild as I want this motor to go another 10+ years. The truck is in very good shape for its age. Thank for the reply!
I tried using my smoke machine to find the leak, but that did not work. So I used the vacuum of the shop vac and a microphone I hadn't used in quite some time, which was connected to my iPhone. There are many dB meter APPs for the iPhone, but this is just one. It worked very well to hunt for where the leak actually was. Utilizing a 3ft dowel rod with the setup was much easier than using a stethoscope. No reason to narrate over the vacuum squeal.
That is how I found my downtube had a crack in it. Right near the turbo but on the back side out of view. I used a commercial electronic kit to find the leak with a handheld microphone probe and a headset. But that even had issues, so I hosed it down with soapy water from a spray bottle and searched for the foam...
@@python929 I used an Olympus ME-15 Microphone I bought from Amazon years ago. But any microphone compatible with your cell phone will work, wired or wireless. I use wireless now for recording speech. And any app for your phone that measures decibels.
In general, it depends on the mileage. These engines are not known to wear out the cam bearings after 500k miles. My rebuilt engine had 75k on it, which looked like they kept the OE bearings in the block for however long it was run. Unless there was a serious oil contamination issue, I think most people are fine unless you have very high mileage.
@@toomanytoysthank you sir! I love your content and the great detail you go into with everything you cover. I especially enjoyed your video detailing head gasket issues and head bolt clamping force.
doorman 800-403 is the wrong part number for the heater core that was on my 03 f350. its too small and doesnt fit. needs one size bigger. not sure if its the original heater core, but the hoses are deff original. i did have enough hose to cut the connector off and hose clamp it onto the heater core though! hopefully this helps someone in a jam!
Nothing in the video shows why u would have so low lift on number 8. Ive done hubdreds of 6.0 and 6.4l lifters and cams. When its bad, its bad, simpe as that. Top came apart or roller failed ans ate cam. No need to take a lofter apart or messure anyhring.
On the contrary, taking the lifter apart was essential to see what was happening. Otherwise, how do we learn? From my other video, the camshaft was mis-ground by the rebuilder, trying to salvage a used cam that was gouged. The base circle's reduced size was incompatible with the reduced length of the updated pushrods from the 6.4L installed in the engine. I don't make metrology errors.
I lost count of how many pieces of invaluable info you dropped in this video. Wow. This man has in-depth knowledge of the Superduty fuel supply system.
Awesome video, really good information here. I work on these trucks all the time. I was seeking info like this once when I was replacing a sending unit for a friend. It must have been before your video was posted because at the time I felt like I was spending too much time figuring something out for fuel level sensor replacement so we just ended up getting the whole unit from ford. Not gonna do that anymore. Also, are your replies being limited on other comments? I was trying to chime in on someone’s amazon find but trying to warn everyone that there are a lot of counterfeit parts, especially motorcraft, on amazon, beware everyone.
Thanks. The only control I have set is for inappropriate comments, as for kids. I started my motorhead journey before I was a teenager, so I'm trying to allow their viewing. But nothing else. Maybe YT's AI interpreted something, but I really don't know for sure. On the other hand, there may be a control that I am unaware of, but I have not made any other changes from the YT standards.
Well, my pick-up in the fuel take fell off/broke apart. Somehow found the entire Motorcraft Sending unit for $96 on Amazon because someone received it with damaged packaging. It turned out not being the correct part because it was for a 38 gallon tank where I have the 29 gallon tank. So, I did just as you did and I pulled the sending unit, wiring and pickup and put on the original! Works Great! Thank you for this Video!
I just responded to another comment where the person was not able to place his comment, and I think it was to this. Amazon has a problem with counterfeit parts, so you need to be prudent
@@toomanytoys that was the one, let’s see if this comment goes thru. Was just trying to warn people when I can to be careful on there cause their are a lot of deep fakes, packaging, printing and even stamping of part numbers on the products. Maybe my previous mention of brands and website got flagged before, why my comment wouldn’t work
I just got a block back (different diesel engine but still iron) from a machine shop that took a couple thou off the deck and left, to my eye, a nice surface finish. That being said I don't get the impression the owner uses a profilometer... I imagine he feels after decades he can tell by eye or touch whether it's it's okay for Cometic MLS. My question is, if I wanted the ideal surface finish you speak of and some extra insurance in case the shop owner's eye is "out of calibration", would it be reasonable to use the technique you've shown in this video---starting at 180 grit doing four passes like you said, consisting of four angles with a left and right direction for each, with a paper swap each angle change (except for pass #4)---to get the ~10 Ra finish?
If you use Cometic gaskets, I would first ask them what they want to see as a surface finish. I've not dealt with them. I'm not surprised the shop did not have a profilometer; it's hard to find an automotive shop that does; it's more commonplace with the big industrial shops. You don't have to go down to 10Ra; 20-30Ra should be fine.
@@toomanytoys I'll definitely shoot an email to Cometic. Their website says a *max* of 50 "or lower". In that case, to get to 20-30 from a freshly cut deck, my intuition is saying maybe two or at most three passes.
@@synnovevikstrom9841 With each pass, wipe the surface down with alcohol or acetone and see how you like it. Also, when you stay with a grit repeatedly, it breaks down and abrades like a finer grit.
@@toomanytoys Spoke with Cometic. They echoed Felpro in saying "smoother the better". When doing this is there a preference for alu oxide or silicon carbide? Or does it all end up the same? On an aside, I've some questions concerning your Hertzian calculations wrt lifter rollers and cam lobes... would sending a message on FTE be good or some way else?
Ordered the Bosch 140amp alternator off Amazon, lasted 6 months. Put stock unit back on for the time being. Are there are any other alternator upgrades you recommend besides the Bosch 140a? Nearly everything I know about the 6.0 electrical system has been learned from your videos
Sorry to hear that happened. The Bosch does have a higher failure rate (5%?) than the brand-new OE alternators, but you can't buy them. I do hope you warranty it through Amazon; people have done that. I have seen the auto parts store rebuild alternators do much worse (25%+). After the Bosch, you have to go into the more expensive alternators like the Mechmann or Leece-Neville. And there are counterfeit L-Ns out there. About the only place that is safe to get an original L-N is XDP.
I put the purchasing information in the next video in the top pinned comment. The basic kit is $105, and the full kit with bolts, washers, and the shackle is $125, both with priority shipping included. Just follow the instructions. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ykM-AAjuliY.html
