Powerstroke 6.0: Tank cleaning, foot replacement, alternative sender replacement 

Very in depth analysis with inventive problem solving makes this video a must watch for anyone tackling the 6.0 fuel tank. Thank you.

I lost count of how many pieces of invaluable info you dropped in this video. Wow. This man has in-depth knowledge of the Superduty fuel supply system.

That was my truck on the tow hook, he pulled it with the 5th wheel connected. It’s now working well with the sump installed. Good video TMT. Complete and detailed 👍

Well, my pick-up in the fuel take fell off/broke apart. Somehow found the entire Motorcraft Sending unit for $96 on Amazon because someone received it with damaged packaging. It turned out not being the correct part because it was for a 38 gallon tank where I have the 29 gallon tank. So, I did just as you did and I pulled the sending unit, wiring and pickup and put on the original! Works Great! Thank you for this Video!

HUGE fan of your uploads! The thorough explanation and attention to detail really speaks to me. Further, that retrofit of the level sender is SMART and cost efficient. We'll see you on the next one. :) Looks like it'll be Grilled Cheese for me at breakfast tomorrow morning. :P

Dang these videos are super good. I need to drop the tank on my 03 7.3, I believe the pickup is broken, and runs out of fuel at 1/8 tank. As usual, super solid, concise, clear and ultra detailed. It's like national geographic for old heui pickups. Excellent work once again sir! One of the best channels on RU-vid, hands down. Glad I found it!

Sir, you are so very thorough on all your videos, thank you so very much!

Wow! I watched your video all the way to the end You did great job working on your fuel tank 👏🏾 I like the way you explained everything, thank you so much for sharing with us a great video of how we should take care purr truck You did everything manually and smartly 👌🏾 I have a float problem in my f250 04 6.0 and I might be doing the job myself in the same way you did it 👍🏾 May God bless you so much 🙏🏾 Oscar Barrientos From Jax Beach FL

good video my friend thanks for sharing this video bless you and your family from NJ

Awesome video, really good information here. I work on these trucks all the time. I was seeking info like this once when I was replacing a sending unit for a friend. It must have been before your video was posted because at the time I felt like I was spending too much time figuring something out for fuel level sensor replacement so we just ended up getting the whole unit from ford. Not gonna do that anymore. Also, are your replies being limited on other comments? I was trying to chime in on someone’s amazon find but trying to warn everyone that there are a lot of counterfeit parts, especially motorcraft, on amazon, beware everyone.

Oh no sweat, thanx for all your help. I can assure you that it was the fix. I tested without and with the added resistor and nothing else was done between the problem existing and the problem disappearing. I know it seems bizarre, but nothing else can really explain the results. I guarantee if I took that resistor out it would reappear. The thing I was thinking you might have access to is some comprehensive list or other source of what are all the things that cause limp mode, and does that cause the RPM fluctuations. Because that seems like a strange effect of limp mode. All said and done, I am stoked to watch your videos, get pointed in the direction I went, and be able to make it work. I did see one supposed Ford description saying limp mode cuts out injectors to protect them, and the guy on the forum said that the PCM does initiate it when the tank is well below the low fuel indicator coming on. You are the only one I know that digs deep enough on these types of things. Another rabbit hole, eh? Two more things…you are behind on your video editing because of your massive attention to detail and high quality standards, and “Won’t Get Fooled Again” is a KILLER TUNE!

i'd rather buy somemones 6.0 thats not Listed as "bullet proof" but TooManyToys follow along project. im selling my new 4th gen 6.7 powerstroke and keeping my 2005 Harley Davidson F250. the new truck has barely any miles and has been down for half the time i've owned it. the 6.0 broke on me once. Chaffed inside the main wiring harness. 1000 dollars and an afternoon. fixed the issue. new truck has half the mpg highway and even less towing. less power too. and i gotta wait for warranty to come around to do weight reduction for longevity. i plan on Adding a Third Battery to my truck soon with E series Van battery box. it mounts to the frame plus the ground upgrades you've mentioned in prior videos.

YOU ALWAYS MAKE VERY GOOD AND INFORMATIVE VIDEOS.....KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.....

As always, excellent content.

This is a great video

Good video, thanks.

This guy is a true master

therockkkkher says thumbs up to this great man !!!

Another great instructional video , keep up the good work -- Hydro

Once again good info

WELL DONE !

Can I have a video like this for every aspect of life

Cool, thanx. I'm replacing my sender like you did except I got one from eBay for an Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer. Same exact mounting and locating pins as you pointed out. The ohmage sweep is 10 to 140, but I noticed that in your demonstration, there was little movement of the float arm between 140 and 160 ohms, and with 10 ohms at the bottom end, it will simply read empty a bit early. Fuel gauges aren't exactly delineated in ounces anyway. It was $30, and for $33 you can get an ohmage range matching device expressly for this purpose that is simple to wire in, if I wanted to get it exact. Also, another question, though it may sound silly. The fuel goes through the primary filter in the HFCM before it goes through the pump impeller itself, yes? I had a few 1/8 inch size bits of debris in the bottom of the tank, and the screen had fallen out of the pickup foot, so I'll blow out the lines from the tank, and check the water drain port, but was worried about any other places they might get lodged in the HFCM. Also, my vent tubes were crumbling to dust, and the metal connector tube is corroded, so, not remembering you replaced them with hose the whole length eliminating the metal tube, I decided to run a hose the whole way too. In addition, I'm using polyolefin shrink tubing, as it is highly resistive to all types of fuel, and McMasters wanted $61 to ship 6 inches of the 1/4 ID you used to Hawaii. Anyway, thanx for the great videos, you are on another level compared to any other auto mechanics utubers for sure. I used to work at a machine shop that did all the work for the San Diego city bus system.

Thank you Sir

The oem Ford foot screen is readily available in stock from both Tasca parts and Riff Raff diesel online, just for anyone wondering (at the time of this writing) haha

Very Good!... #94 ✝ {4-22-2024}

Love it. My fuel gauge is not the most accurate, often seeming stuck and then skipping down in steps as I drive. Now I think I know why. Out of curiosity, do you add fuel treatments to your diesel (e.g. Marvel mystery oil) to perhaps account for why (for example) your pickup foot deicing valve was still in such good shape? Also, your thoughts on using this opportunity to swap out your OEM filter with a Fass or like minded fuel pumps or do you prefer OEM? Good job as always.

Great video Jack. Upon inspection of my bed rails. One of my tank straps are about to snap. Long story short. Bed is setting on top of fuel tank. The rubber line is crushed and plastic tee. Where did you get that plastic vapor tee? I bought a HFCM months ago. So, I'm going to relocate and replace metal lines with Gates. I'm going to harpoon my tank also. As I did on my 2000 7.3 while I have the bed off welding new bed support rails. Thanks in advance. Ed!

Well, I got the tank clean and replaced the breather hose. Blew out the supply line between the pump and tank. Now the engine idles fine, starts fine, does not die, but when the RPMs get over about 1,000-1,100, sitting out of gear or driving, the engine drops rpms every 3-4 seconds for about 1 second, then comes right back. Revs up out of gear no sweat, has all normal power etc. between the drops.Fuel pressure is 65-70 lbs consistently, everything else looks good. I have a Scangauge II, and there are no unusual readings.I disconnected the vent tube and no improvement. Drained the water drain, and checked the primary filter, nothing except some amber colored bits and a few flakes of rust looking stuff. Drained it a second time. Still getting the RPM drops every few seconds. I'm at a loss here, and would appreciate any advice. I unplugged the ICP sensor, still no improvement. The only thing (I think I notice is possibly not as much turbo boost on hard acceleration and the pressure bleed after shutting down sounds a bit louder. Where does that pressure bleed come from, because it sounds like it is coming from the intercooler, and I don't remember it coming from there before. Can you please help?

What size hose for the fuel lines. Was that 1/4 inch also or did u mention 3/8. Did u use same hose since the suction and return are two different sizes? I have dropped tank several times. The tank is clear and the sending unit is clear. Foot has been modified to not drop the screen insert. But hoses were “repaired” before I bought the truck. They were spliced and i feel that they are creating a restriction and possibly have some of the disintegrated foot sucked up in it. Anyway want to replace the lines from the tank to the HFCM. I did find foot debris inside the HFCM manifold inside the suction intake line.

First, another great production. The highlight for me was using the new 98 sender board on your existing pickup, saving money. I like affordable options. Only thing I don't know if you addressed was the vent hose drooping down. The hose should be ran along the top of the tank in order to have proper drain back. If left drooped, it potentially will fill with fuel. There are conditions if this occurred it may burp fuel out of the vent. This is my opinion. What think you?

Just curious but is that float material compatible with ULSD?unlike the coating inside those old style steel tanks

Where did you get the new pickup foot? And do you think Delphi is a good brand?

Could you post or send me a list of everything you used parts-wise in this video? I’m about to undertake this job on my 04 and want to have everything in order before I begin. Thanks for the great video as always

For those who don’t know, you can get an aftermarket fuel sender assembly on Amazon for $65 now. FINALLY

What is that tool you used to remove the black plastic ring on the sender unit? Thanks

At 2:55 in your video you show a print. Can you point me in the direction of purchasing such documentation?

Do you know why a 2005 Ford 6.0 fuel pump would keep blowing fuses ? Any ideas ?

Alrighty then. I searched Utube for an hour and a half last night, no videos on a 6.0 losing RPMs every few seconds above 1,100. Lost roughly 200-300 each time, real consistent driving or revving when parked. So I did a web search, and one guy said he had a duplicate problem. His happened after letting the fuel run lower after the low fuel indicator came on. I had just dropped my tank and did basically what Toomanytoys did, except I used a sending reostat from a Mercury Mountaneer/Ford Explorer. The ohmage sweep read 10-140 ohms until I got it mounted in, then went to 7-140. I guess I didn’t bench test it carefully enough. Sorry, some redundancy here from other posts of mine here. I also used polyolefin shrink tubing, as many web pages espouse it’s resistance to chemicals and all types of fuels. So I get it in, the mounting clips and locating pins being identical to my 2006 Powerstroke existing one like TMTs. The part number was different on the reostat. We did the oil and filter, shocks and suspension stops, trani fluid and filters, oil cooler back flush, coolant flush with Ford C9 iron cleaner, steering dampner replacement, all four shocks..well, I digress. So I start it up with 10 gallons of fuel, and the gauge reading very very low. Then I noticed the symptoms, checked the water drain and fuel pressure again, fretted and mulled, finally found the mention of low fuel causing the “limp mode” and symptoms on the web mentioned above, found some, though VERY little, corroborating info on the web. Then more mulling…so maybe my problem was the 7 ohms when empty instead of 15. Next morning, today, I tried unplugging the sender, no improvement. Even though the meter read 30 ohms with 10 gallons. So I put a 30 ohm resistor in the circuit, got 48 ohms (?) but presto change-o, the symptoms went away. Whew! It’s running normally now, though a bit of sticktion when cold still. Funny, the first time I started it yesterday there was none at all. So thanx to all the Utube guys, especially TMT, for leading me down this rabbit hole!!!! The reostat was $30 on EBay, and the resistor and shrink tubing were $3. The gauge reads almost exactly correct now. Later I may get the gauge/sending unit ohmage matching device specifically for this purpose, but for now it looks like the gauge will read very close to, if not exactly, correctly. Thanx again buddy, and keep those excellent videos coming!!

My question is wouldn't it be easier to remove the truck bed to access the tank.

Ps176 is not the sending unit but the float only

What hose for the breathers. Mines dryrotted.

It baffles me that someone hasn’t made a metal version of that foot, since they break so much