Do you remember how long it took to cut the entire sheet ? And what was the plunge rate each time , trying to get a time line on how long it would take with how many passes for cutting 4 by 8 5/8 melamine for kitchen cabinets
So this project was cut as a box with square tabs which always takes longer due to all the tabs and fillets to be cut. The vcarve estimator was showing as 60 minutes for the box parts, shelf peg holes and accessories. A single 16mm think, 600mm wall cabinet would take around 40 minutes to cut out including shelves and shelf peg hole/hinge holes but adding pockets for specific fixing like Lamello cabinet fixing would take longer again. Yeti pilot would reduce this time again to somewhere in the region of 30 minutes per cabinet at a guess. I regularly use a 5mm compression cutter at 3-4mm deep pre pass (first pass 4mm), 1850-19000rpm at 3000mm per minute feed rate. pilot will take the feed rate up as high as 6000mm per minute feed rate which will double production. I hope some of this helps. Marty
Holly that’s a lot of information ! So If I was to use a 3/8 compression bit with out the pin holes and just boxes I should be able to bring it down pretty good to maybe 20 minutes ?
@TheUofastudent if memory serves 3/8 is like 9.5mm Personally, I would not go that big for profile cuts of this type as it's just a lot of resistance on the spindle for no real benefit. I would personally opt for between 3/16 & 1/4. Thinner than 3/16 can develop a fair amount of flex and increase inaccuracies, and bigger than 1/4 will increase load on the spindle for no real reason or benefit. I use 5/16 on 2" oak just because the length of the cutter needs the extra thickness to reduce flex. For the 5/8 material you mentioned, I would personally opt for a flute length of around 3/4 - 7/8 again to keep the cutter nice and rigid. 3/8 cutter would ultimately see you reduce the feed rate and / or the pass depth, which will increase the run time and be counter intuitive. Also worth mentioning that melamine face material is hard wearing in cutters, so again for that reason I would want to think about cost efficency. There is no point paying out for larger, more expensive cutters if smaller, more cost-effective cutters are less burden on your spindle and machine.
Good Video. I like that you just give it straight, no side jokes trying to be funny or lengthy apologies for this and that. Been looking into the SmartBench and you've helped my understanding a great deal, Thank You.
I'm not a big enough content creator to indulge you in my life as a creator, nor do I want to make videos any longer than they need to be. I try to keep to the point as I am just greatfull if anybody sticks around long enough to watch something I've made. 🤣 I don't do many full videos with me talking as I don't feel I'm any good at it, plus my equipment is very lacking. Thank you so much for your feedback. Smartbench is a phenomenal piece of equipment for any beginner or experienced cnc operator. I am still in awe of this machine 2 years into ownership. If you have any questions Smartbench related the "yeti tool talk group" on Facebook is a fantastic platform. 👍 hope to see you as a member of the smartbench family soon. Marty
Me again bro.. I have some 1/4" bits for a CNC. One is a Tapered Spiral End Mill ball nose bit but I haven't used it yet bcos I haven't built my CNC machine. Can u only use them on a CNC? Would it be possible to use one of these type pf bits with a hand held Plunge router or do these bits need the exactingness (if that is a word) LMAO of the computer/CNC machine?? Apologies for the questions pal.. Take it easy
You can use spiral bits in a hand router but you will also need to be mindful that the spiral geometry can pull the cutter into the material as it can act like a corkscrew. Not really an issue if you have a side fence setup but of you are doing a design freehand then it could make the lines very uneven. Hope you get your own cnc machine all ready to make dust soon. Its a very addictive hobby and great fun when it's all working out.
New subscriber here pal. I love that CNC machine u have there. So I have a question if u have a minute? Q. Why did u router out those grooves in the 2 parts? I'm tying to think of why and all that comes to mid is to help with the weight of the project?? Is this door for under a stairs cabinet? The machine is wicked though man. I really like those small grooves the make the door look like it's been panelled? Real nice piece of OAK there too btw mate. Keep up the awesome work and I will be watching more of ur content. I have the makings of my own home built CNC but the electronics have done my head in.. LOL Look forward to see this machine some more..
Hey, thank for your message and kind words. Yes the internal grooves are just purely to reduce the physical weight of the door. This understairs cupboard door was made to match to there existing doors in the property so the small vee groove was just to mimic the design.
I can not remember specifically what tools were used in this example but you can use pretty much any end mill for the clearance passes and either ball nose of tapered ball nose for the finishing passes. Hope this helps.
Excellent Tutorial Marty, I got a yeti 2 years ago and never had chance to use it believe it or not, this will give me a great head start, anymore tips mate would be great, excellent, thank you 🙏
Hi! Excellent work! Can you please tell what is the maximum thickness of material that can be used with this CNC machine? For example, if I have solid wood with thickness of 2 inch, will it handle it? Is these enough room by Z zxis for that thickness? Thanks in advance.
hard to answer really as they are all bespoke. different sizes, materials etc. if you are interested in something please email me and we can discuss. mapurdy.84@gmail.com
I've just got this to replace my DeWalt job site saw as space is limited in my shop. Also have festool ts55 and CTL midi so great news that it fits the router table dust collector. You must be ex Mil with that lingo? Love the vid dude
Hey dude. Thank you for your kind words. I am not ex military but I am blessed to be related and friends with current and ex serving military personnel. I love the triton work center. The router table is an absolute god send with a flush cut but for cutting tabs off of cnc cut parts. I use it almost daily at times and it is a great work horse. I am still surprised how accurate the fence systems are and it's a real plus to have in the shop. I quite like the added contractors saw attachment as it looks really good for cross cutting stick timber.
Maybe one more tip, for the final cut-out, to edit-node the rounded square, and delete the long straight edges, so you just have the half circles on the left and right, Goes a lot faster,
Maybe it's a good idea to first look at a few lessons on v-carve, the best ones are from "Mark Lyndsay" ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qnOmsJZMiTg.html It's a bit slow in pace, but very good The first 10 lessons gives a very good base (and he is doing it all for free), does not even got the software from Vectric.
Unfortunately I am 100% kinaesthetic. I watch a lot of videos and read articles but Unfortunately I really struggle to retain information that way. I only really learn from just doing and picking up things as I go. All these videos are from my early journey with my cnc. Feel free to search @gifts_in_wood on Instagram to see the types of projects I ha e moved on to. I have picked up a lot along the way in the last 5 months and enjoying the learning journey. Thank you so much for your feed back, it's all greatly appreciated 🙏 ❤
@@gifts_in_wood2294 Well I'm just old, and I also have problems remembering Until I do it often enough, then it will stick, but watching those video's I know that some things are possible but I forgot how to do it, that leaves me searching youtube again and again I don't even have a cnc anymore, I generate some gcode for the guy that bought my machine But who doesn't have the time to learn all these v-carve commands. So he emails me a list of what he wants, And I make the gcodes for him Kind regards Hans
There are 2 paths, one called v-carve and one called (clear)-(your flat depth) to select the clear one and turn it blue, then watch the preview, next select the v-carve toolpath for the Vtool, the radio buttons are for selecting to create a gcode Hope this makes sense, it's not the clearest in the vectric menu. Kind regards Hans
Oh one more tip, the latest fonts you have used in v_carve are kept at the top of the list Speaking of fonts, most (hand written ) fonts are a nightmare in v-carve all the connecting letters need to be node edited . The way to go is loose letters-fonts Specially if you got very much text, for a few words or a one time design logo not a huge problem Kind regards Hans
Hi, you know you can draw guide lines? just klick in the dashed border and drag the mouse to the desired location . In your case from the top row down to the 40 mm mark Kind regards Hans Oh and if you click in the corner of these 2 dashed lines, you hide all the guides, without deleting them Kind regards Hans
Cheers fella. Used to do the same but without the gecko. It was hit and miss if something slipped but with the gecko it's an absolute winner. Clamps can work too but I tend not to use them any more as clamps can be a pain. I actually use dewalt quick clamps with my festool rails now as they are a lot better compared to the festool clamps.
@@williamwallace410 I just find the dewalt slide clamps easier and quicker to adjust. The festool twist and quick release clamps can be a pain at times but they still hold well. I find the dewalt clamps I never have to bend down to adjust or lock off.
Its called a gecko. Festool make them. When you Google it make sure you buy it with the rail attachment. Don't know why but they also sell it without for some reason.
If I'm not mistaken the table saw fence has two scales; one to be used when using the normal/higher part of the fence, the other is used when you remove the fence and turn it around for use with thin/narrow cuts on the shorter side of the fence, as opposed to 45 degree cuts, which you suggested. Good to see someone, who is not a professional, showing the system on RU-vid though.
That is exactly why I wanted to purchase form a company like yourselves. Can't imaging a big corporates or a foreign manufacturer going to the lengths you guys do to meet your customer requests. Please don't ever loose that 👍
I bought one last week with the router module saw module and the TRA001 router. The router is real nice. Although on mine the fence cheeks are a different thickness about a 1mm but out. How you finding it?
Mine is absolutely spot on. Os the indeed or the out feed higher? You could swap out so the in feed is higher and put some shims behind the outfeed to make it right but ultimately I would contact triton. I'm sure their customer service would honour something to make it right.
@@gifts_in_wood2294 yes it is the out feed that is low. Been in contact with them and they just keep saying they haven’t had any other complaints with that. My point to them is if I buy two new fence cheeks will I end up with the same problem. I have now asked if they can tell me the thickness so I know what’s right and what’s wrong. It was a second hard item but very little use as the guy got frustrated with it.
@@markjarman7819 of the out feednis 1mm low can you not add the outfeed spacers in it and bring it back to level? The long orange rods located in the back of the fence are the spacers.
@@gifts_in_wood2294 yes I thought of that myself but the In feed fence as a slight kick at the bottom so I’m bugged both ways. I think today I’m going to make new fences myself. Like I said triton not helpful and new from them I think there £23 each and for mdf I think that’s silly.
