Thank you for making this video! All of my molding disintegrated this year. The mechanic wanted to charge me $1000 to replace all 4. Now I'm going to do it myself.
In 1982 I bought a 25K Mercury Bobcat, sister to a Ford Pinto , and Mustang II. In my opinion that setup isn't heavy enough for a V8. I'll use a Jag IFS, and IRS in a Model A I have here. Part of the reason is: I don't want to redesign anything, and this stuff is coming off the same car. Narrowing the width is pretty straight forward. I'll probly go with Double adjustable, spring over shocks.
It had the rot when I purchased vehicle. After a couple years it happened again and that is when I made this video. I’m not sure if it’s because my climate here in AZ but based off views and comments it seems to be a common problem.
@@garagebuildznfab2861 OK thanks, just wondering if Honda ever replaced the part/rubber vendor with one who adds UV protection to the rubber. I am actually going to install a 3rd party set of parts this weekend at a price of ~$42 for all four. Let's see if I get what I paid for.
@@thailover5 Like a couple other comments here say.. that ebay trim crap is not good. Use OEM or dont replace it. And yes the OEM replacement will hold up, just as long as you give it a little care and maintenance. The original owner of your car or mine, back in 2008-2012.. did not know that their window trim rubber would deteriorate over time if not taken care of... so they did nothing to protect it, so it wore out. Now we know, so when we replace the trim with new OEM stuff, we can apply a protectant to the piece occasionally so that it protects it from the sun and heat and cold. And yes, I guarantee it will then hold up for at least 25-30 years without issue. 303 Aerospace protectant is a good one but there are many products meant to preserve rubber and protect it. Apply it every time you wash your car or once every few weeks or 1x a month, whatever. The original owners never did that on 99% of these cars so all of our trim became trash.
Great video, thanks for putting this together. I followed it almost to the T, but started with the rear trim which was real simple (no mirror removal). Follow the steps as the video says and you’ll have no problem. Only had one of the white clips break during removal but wasn’t too worried about it since my new trim pieces came with them. I’ll admit it was the last piece and I was in a time crunch to finish. One tip for the mirrors: the one nut that’s in the tight corner wasn’t too bad. The universal/swivel is one way to go but I opted just to break the initial torque with a small 5/16” wrench then worked it mostly off with my fingers and for the final turns I put my magnet on it as I spun it off so it wouldn’t drop. Not bad just take your time.
Thanks for the video! Just thought I’d throw my little two cents in. If you remove the rubber trim on the top of the door and the plastic trim next to where the speaker was a little bit it makes it a whole lot easier to get that bottom nut. Still may want to plug it with some paper towels but sure does give you some more room to get to it. Easy fix thanks!
Thanks for this great how-to! Just finished all 4 windows on my '12 Accord; (3rd one for drivers' door). Seems like the part number was incremented, so hopefully never again. Was really dreading that one mirror bolt, but had plenty of room for a skinny box-wrench. Glad I stuffed the hole with a plastic grocery bag; I fumble-fingered the first one...bag saved the day! All told, 1.5 hours start-to-finish, for all 4 windows.
Lovely video man! Do you know how to replace the weather strip on the door? Trying to find video about it but I can't find any. I have a 2009 honda accord sedan so I don't think it would be too much different!
I really appreciate the time you took to make this. It really simplified the process and saved me some time figuring this out. A tip for getting out that lower mirror nut without having to take the panel off, if you have a Klein tools screwdriver the shaft that holds the bits is 8mm like the size you need to get those out. Using a needle file you can file out an opening in the door interior to where you can get the screwdriver shaft in there and break it that way. When you pop the speaker cover back on it hides it as well. Thanks again for the video
Doing it this way is certainly tickling the tail of the dragon. If this goes wrong you won't be injured but likely killed. I've removed these springs many times over the years and would always recommend the correct churchill/spx tool. Buy or hire... your life is worth it.
Thank you for posting these videos. Please could we have an update, I'm particularly interested in how you mounted the top of the shocks to the subframe and what shocks you used.
