In this video, I'll take you through the steps to remove your Honda Accord side mirror and replace your window molding/Belt molding. Honda Parts Unlimited www.hondaparts...
Thank you for making this video! All of my molding disintegrated this year. The mechanic wanted to charge me $1000 to replace all 4. Now I'm going to do it myself.
Just finished the passenger side. Hint: when removing the mirror, plug up the space below the three 8MM bolts with wads of paper towel. This way when (not if, when) you drop one of the nuts, it doesn't fall down into the door panel. And use gloves for this job. The rubber molding has turned into some kind of tar and it's hard to wash off your hands.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me
@Dean Korbin thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Just replaced all 4 of mine pretty easily thanks to your tutorial. I used a magnet while unscrewing the bolt behind the mirror and put a rag in the gap in case one dropped. I was sent the newer TAO-A02 versions for all 4 windows, hopefully they last longer. 72410-TA0-A02 R FR 72910-TA0-A02 R RR 72450-TA0-A02 L FR 72950-TA0-A02 L RR Note: Always double check the fit guide on the site to make sure it fits your car. Thanks again!!
I really appreciate you making this video. I just changed out my 2012 Honda Accord moldings and felt badass afterward because I seemed pro. It worked out beautifully and saved hundreds thanks to your instruction. Thanks, buddy.
Great video, thanks for putting this together. I followed it almost to the T, but started with the rear trim which was real simple (no mirror removal). Follow the steps as the video says and you’ll have no problem. Only had one of the white clips break during removal but wasn’t too worried about it since my new trim pieces came with them. I’ll admit it was the last piece and I was in a time crunch to finish. One tip for the mirrors: the one nut that’s in the tight corner wasn’t too bad. The universal/swivel is one way to go but I opted just to break the initial torque with a small 5/16” wrench then worked it mostly off with my fingers and for the final turns I put my magnet on it as I spun it off so it wouldn’t drop. Not bad just take your time.
Thanks for this great how-to! Just finished all 4 windows on my '12 Accord; (3rd one for drivers' door). Seems like the part number was incremented, so hopefully never again. Was really dreading that one mirror bolt, but had plenty of room for a skinny box-wrench. Glad I stuffed the hole with a plastic grocery bag; I fumble-fingered the first one...bag saved the day! All told, 1.5 hours start-to-finish, for all 4 windows.
I really appreciate the time you took to make this. It really simplified the process and saved me some time figuring this out. A tip for getting out that lower mirror nut without having to take the panel off, if you have a Klein tools screwdriver the shaft that holds the bits is 8mm like the size you need to get those out. Using a needle file you can file out an opening in the door interior to where you can get the screwdriver shaft in there and break it that way. When you pop the speaker cover back on it hides it as well. Thanks again for the video
Thank you for making and posting this. I did all four windows yesterday. Before seeing this I didn't even know there were molding elements; I thought they glued the weather stripping onto the chrome part at the factory or something. All went smooth and quickly except for those lower forward mirror nuts. I found after detaching the two electrical connectors (speaker and mirror) and moving them to the rear, I could get a finger into the slot, under the bolt. I used a driver extension with a small hex bit that easily fit into the hole of the nut, and pressed the bit, through the nut, against the bolt, to help hold it in place as I turned the nut with my finger. It was a little awkward, but it worked.
Super thank you. I order the parts online for my sister 2011 honda accord. Well lets say with your guidance was something not out of this world. In parts about $200 and the dealer charging $686 so I was able to save her about $400. I did it my self and took me about 2 hours because I took my time to make sure I don't do any further damage. Thank you so much
Thanks for this! Your video definitely saved me some time. I packed some paper towel into that crevice & it prevented the bolt from falling in. The same bolt was missing on the driver's side so Honda lost it when they did the same job 30,000 miles ago😑
Thanks for the video! Just thought I’d throw my little two cents in. If you remove the rubber trim on the top of the door and the plastic trim next to where the speaker was a little bit it makes it a whole lot easier to get that bottom nut. Still may want to plug it with some paper towels but sure does give you some more room to get to it. Easy fix thanks!
I just finished this project, and this video was extremely helpful. I had a lot of trouble with that last screw. I found that if I was careful, I could remove and replace the molding without removing that screw. Thank you very much for providing this video.
Outstanding video! Working on this kind of stuff always seems so difficult if you don't do it very often. It was nice to see it done, so I know what to expect. My 2011 Accord has this same problem.
Same issue on my 2009 Accord...gooey rubber strip that peels away. Horrible materials. Had to be the vendor, my Element is older and the belt moulding on the windows has held up for 15 years! Shout out to SO CAL SPEED SHOPS too! Nice how ya got that in the opening shots!!
JT Garcia Yep that molding was gooey alright. I used to be somewhat local to SoCal Speedshop when I lived in Cali. I really liked Jimmy Shine’s work. That truck of his was so bad ass.
Thanks for the video. I just bought a used 2010 Accord and the seals on all 4 doors are bad. I ordered the parts, and thanks to your video, I'll be replacing them this week.
Thanks for the great video - Purchased 2011 Window molding strips for all 4 doors ($35 from Ebay including shipping + tax). Correct, that corner nut is the most the Mirror difficult. Here's what worked for me (Didn't have to call the wife LOL) .... 1. TAKING THE 8mm NUT OFF ---- Placed small 2"x2" plastic bag, open at the top, under the difficult 8mm nut and secured the bag with Duct tape, sure enough the nut fell into the plastic bag and I was able to remove the bag and take out the 8mm nut. 2. PLACING THE 8mm NUT BACK ON ---- Placed small 2"x2" plastic bag under the difficult 8mm bolt, open at the top, and secured the bag with Duct tape. Cannot get my medium size finger into the area, so I placed 8mm nut onto small size flat screwdriver and move the nut about 1" from the flat tip. Now place the tip of the screwdriver onto the flat end onto mirror bolt and keeping it pressed there. Next slide the nut onto bolt and use pinky finger or pointed pick to rotate the nut to start threads onto the bolt. Remove the 2"x2" plastic bag and tighten 8mm with pliers or 8mm spanner.
Kelly Dugger Good luck! The only thing to pay attention to is that one bottom nut holding the mirror and just remember it’s like “a rolling off motion” to remove the molding.
Thank u very much for making the video 🙏 I just bought mine off amazon for under $90 and they seem pretty good... the dealership is a rip-off!!! Thank again for making it easier for me to swap these out 👊
Almost 3 years later Honda still has not upgraded their product. I am trying to save and Honda had made it so difficult. Honda still needs to get their s*** together and get a new vendor. I could not find OEM parts without going directly to Honda and I refuse to pay their cost which was over $500 for parts and labor. :0 --- I ordered parts but not from Honda. I don't have a garage go figure as a gal but I'll give it a shot :). I really appreciate this video. Thanks so much \/ peace out...
Thank you for video..and yes taking out Booger nut was Painful !! And since I didn't have Tool like you I had to use a lot of strength to make room to loosen the nut ..and I also dropped nut despite your warning ( and left nut inside door ) ..Sorry !!
Thanks bro. I have the same issue with my 2012, but only on the front driver side so far. The other three windows are doing fine. Guess I’m lucky. Thanks for the detailed info. It will make it way easier for me. You’re awesome bro!
Used a small 90 degree needle nose pliers to catch that front bolt and then used the same pliers to put it back. Once I had it on the stud I used the pliers pushed against the stud as a guide to finger the bolt on. I know, but it was pretty easy. I too bought aftermarket on Amazon for the low $40’s for the set of 4. They line up perfectly and look great. Guess I’ll see how they last. Thanks for your video. It really helped.
Here are what I think the part numbers are for 2008 - 2012 Honda Accords. My car is a 2011 and this is what came up. 72410-TA0-A01 MOLDING ASSY., Right Front Door $58.97 72910-TA0-A02 MOLDING ASSY., Right Rear Door $54.15 72950-TA0-A01 MOLDING ASSY., Left Rear Door $54.15 72450-TA0-A01 MOLDING ASSY., Left Front Door $58.97 The prices shown are from Honda Parts Unlimited. They seem to be the cheapest I can find. You can probably do better if you start looking at used parts, but the used ones will most likely be in the same, crappy condition as yours.
Laika052 hey bro, thanks for the part numbers. So, you say what you think are the part numbers right? Meaning, to the best of your knowledge or you’re really not sure? I’m sure you’re right, cuz I went to HPU and they have these part numbers. Thanks my brother from another mother.;)
Lovely video man! Do you know how to replace the weather strip on the door? Trying to find video about it but I can't find any. I have a 2009 honda accord sedan so I don't think it would be too much different!
Thank you so much for this video! The Honda dealer wanted to charge me close to $500 to replace the driver and passenger molding for one side! By any chance do you know the part # you used when you ordered the molding? I also have a 2012 accord, and just want to make sure I'm getting the right part.
Great video. I've already ordered the molding/Belts for all mine. When will we see you working on your 48 Truck? Would love to compare with my 52 Ford Panel truck. Cheers!
First of all, thanks for this video, it's great! Just curious if you asked a honda mx center if there was a service bulletin regarding this issue or if they would replace it for free? I'm guessing that they probably told you to pack sand... Anyway, it is crap that those seals are such poor quality!!!
Thanks' for the video, it is bullshit on Honda's part this is a constant money maker for them my local Honda dealer wanted close to $320 for the parts and like another $300 for labor. Our 2004 Yukon's stripping still looks brand new.
I have a 2008 Honda Accord with deteriorating window stripping/molding. I'm concerned with the daily rains might be short circuiting the wiring inside the doors and other electrical areas in my car. I'm not mechanically inclined with cars and can't afford the Honda dealership, so it looks like I'll be doing this job myself even though I don't even have the correct tools. I viewed the websites for both links mentioned in these comments -- HondaPartsUnlimited.com AND HondaPartsOnline.net. As of 8/13/2020 on HondaPartsUnlimited.com, the front door moldings are $89 and the back door moldings are $81. As of 8/13/2020 on HondaPartsOnline.net, the front door moldings are marked down from $87 to $65, and the back door moldings are marked down from $80 to $60. Garage Buildz n Fab mentioned this site in the comments, and the website claims to be "Honda Genuine Parts & Accessories". It definitely has the better price of the two websites.
It had the rot when I purchased vehicle. After a couple years it happened again and that is when I made this video. I’m not sure if it’s because my climate here in AZ but based off views and comments it seems to be a common problem.
@@garagebuildznfab2861 OK thanks, just wondering if Honda ever replaced the part/rubber vendor with one who adds UV protection to the rubber. I am actually going to install a 3rd party set of parts this weekend at a price of ~$42 for all four. Let's see if I get what I paid for.
@@thailover5 Like a couple other comments here say.. that ebay trim crap is not good. Use OEM or dont replace it. And yes the OEM replacement will hold up, just as long as you give it a little care and maintenance. The original owner of your car or mine, back in 2008-2012.. did not know that their window trim rubber would deteriorate over time if not taken care of... so they did nothing to protect it, so it wore out. Now we know, so when we replace the trim with new OEM stuff, we can apply a protectant to the piece occasionally so that it protects it from the sun and heat and cold. And yes, I guarantee it will then hold up for at least 25-30 years without issue. 303 Aerospace protectant is a good one but there are many products meant to preserve rubber and protect it. Apply it every time you wash your car or once every few weeks or 1x a month, whatever. The original owners never did that on 99% of these cars so all of our trim became trash.
Joshua Quinn did you find what you needed? I found this link for you www.hondapartsonline.net/v-2012-honda-accord-sedan--ex-l--5-speed-automatic/interior-bumper--molding. Basically search for belt molding or weather molding. If I remember correctly the part# end in ao2 like this 72410-TA0-A02.
Questionn: so as i wait for my parts, i am still getting car washes at this moment. Should i worry that water is hiding somewhere? Whats the worst that happens while these are damaged & it rains or u have car washes. ?
There are two squarish drain holes at the bottom of the door. Just check they're not clogged with garbage and the water should run through. I would avoid automatic car washes until it's fixed because the soap is pretty harsh