Neither of those two marks are top dead center for the front rotor. Top dead center is about 5 degrees to the right of the right one. Ish. Factory marks are all over the show.
@ThomasReynolds-ey1ps cas will slide in any angle as long as the gears mesh.. your going to have to verify you have the right pulley and right pulley hub for the motor, they are different between 12a and several variations throughout the 13b.
Just want to say thank you. Your video is very detailed vs the other videos and it help me with my brain fart. I was trying to start my engine in the tailing mark. Thank you
Ok I got this far on my own, I was looking for the dynamic timing with the gun since I’ve never used one b4. Is that video out? I’d not I’ll do some google searches.
That's pretty easy give it a quick Google and remember on. Fc you need to use the ECU jumpers to adjust CAS timing. I haven't gotten a video out on dynamic yet, now that my set up is a FFE trigger and controlled with a Haltech I haven't had to play with anything other than verify my timing is correct per what my ECU is putting out
Mercedes diesel 4x4 no longer sells them, and to be fair if i did it again I wouldn't use them your going to have to go through doomsday diesel for the adapter. Absolutely get the new flywheel balanced like the original and make sure you mark orientation of it how it goes on the crank shaft
I used a high amp starter solenoid and wired in a push button in the cab, just hold it for like 15 seconds and it was good enough to start it. I daily drove it that winter and we had multiple weeks in the single digit Temps.
Just did mine January in the dark and wat too many budweiser..pretty simple..my advice when in doubt pull it out and have it checked it will save you some hard ache..
Dynamic is easy, and my set up has changed since this video, the car still wouldn't run correctly on megasquirt so I trashed that and ended up installing AEM smart coils, A FFE trigger wheel and a Haltech Elite 750.
Currently taking a little break from the restoration, getting married in 2 weeks and have been concentrating on light restoration on some Porsches at work Currently. I'll be getting back on it soon I hope, hard to justify spending money on the Lotus when the economy is the way it is.
Depends on how rusty every is, I think if I had to do it again on an assembled car I can probably get it done in a day working at it most of the day. Other wise I think it took me a few hours a evening after work. That's also bagging and tagging every bolt that came out of it
Sorry to dig up an old video.. so to clarify there was no need for the second factory screw from the Volkswagen handle (missing from the Porsche) to secure onto the door? Looked like the door jam screw did the job just fine?!
im getting code p1698 which is usually bad crank sensor. crank sensor is new, distrib, cap rotor plugs wires all new. idle air sensor new, only thing havent touched is throttle sensor. my dtc code error is no ccd trans bus messages so im thinking TCM or ECM as u called it in this video. u think it could be ECM or the PCM even?
I have a 1965 Spitfire Mark 1 that I am putting back together. Purchased as a basket case, yes I agree, British wiring is always suspect and poorly done!
Is this the same for the gsl-se. Do you know if the pullies only go on one diretion? I think my timing marks are 180 but the engine runs, just cant see the timing marks with the timing gun.
Hello,thanks for the video. Having my shoes replaced this week, 99 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 4 wheel. When I called part's store, they said they had the 9 inch and 10inch shoes, and didn't know which one's would fit my jeep. I'm thinking 9 inch, what do you think? Thank you, guess I'll buy both and take the other back, they only have kit for 9 inch and Wil have to order kit for brakes if they are 10 inch. So hopefully they are 9 inch shoes. Thank you
It would depend on which axle is in the jeep and to my knowledge in those years it's either a Dana 30 or a Chrysler 8.25 I'm not sure. Maybe pull a wheel off and measure the drum quick to be sure
10:56. When I went to headers, I found the heat unbearable as your feet are right next to them. Easy and cheap fix is to go into the kitchen when your wife's not watching and steal an aluminum Bakelite baking sheet. It consists of two aluminum sheets with an air space in between. Figure out where the headers are going to be next to on the chassis. Place the sheet on the chassis so it will face the headers. Scribe a line to cut to make it fit and attach with sheet metal screws. You've now solved 90% of your heat problems and as a bonus, your car will smell like chocolate chip cookies when you warm it up. Best of luck.
Recently located an OM617 in my local yard and plan to grab it soon. I also managed to score a TJ from a friend for a damn good price in this Narnia market. Always wanted to do this, looks like something I could get done relatively quickly. Great job fabbing that all together
Thanks man, it was good fun while I had it and was pretty simple to do, might I suggest the doomsday diesel adapter kit. There's some thing that look a little nicer on their adapter plate than the Mercedes 4x4 one.
@@CowbellCustoms I will absolutely look into that. Trying to get comfortable behind a camera, everyone around me says I should document these projects I’m about to tackle. Thanks for the input, maybe you’ll see my 3rd gen dodge complete rebuild pop up on the YT Airwaves.
That would be cool, getting started and comfortable in front of the camera is the biggest hurddle, once you do it and get in the flow of stopping and filming you can do great things. Unfortunately I get focused and forget to film alot
