Wonderful job on your folding and sealing. Oatey instructions call for a pre slope UNDER their pan liner. Look it up in their specifications or on the Oatey company sponsored installation video.
You are correct, and I'm sure it does some good but I've taken out 40-year-old showers that don't have a pre-slope and they look the same as showers that do (mold underneath everything about 1/4" into the mortar bed). But it certainly won't hurt to do it that way, just an extra step.
Different fittings do have different barb gaps. I do a heavy 16th to 1/8. And I try to pay attention the the barb distance from where the PEX meets the fitting. Your 100 times better off being a little too close than 1/4 or more. But for like a copper stub like you have on the toilet there, it's going to be out a lot farther than a little 90. And a threaded fitting is going to be a little different than both. I like to hang the ring over the barb towards the fitting and it should just catch the second barb which is fine cuz you have 3 barbs. What you're looking for is the fitting not to blow off and flood the house in minutes. A drip that happens in the future could always be found and fixed without extensive damage. But intentionally putting them out as far as the directions say is asking for trouble if you ask me. Shine a flash light thru from the back when you're not sure. Or Mark it side by side before putting the fitting in the PEX. And I would never use a plastic fitting. Just me. No telling how brittle those black plastic fittings are going to be in 30 years.
I have 4 bulb fluorescent fixtures that are 8ft. with 2 ballast resistors. Is the wiring modification the same as your video with the 4' bulbs ? thank you
Yes, they're the same as long as you use the direct wire (ballast bypass) type. Neutral on one side and hot on the other. The box should show the wiring diagram as well.
09/06/2024 Update: Problem reported below last week is now solved. I get light on all the tubes inside the fixture from end to end of ea. tube. Detail: Went back to a different branch of Lowe's last week which had a pack of Type B T8 LED, 48"L 4,000 Lumens, 32Watt, a pack of two tubes/pack for $25. Both worked. All of the LED beads inside the tube lit this time for both tubes. I need to get another pair for the total of 4 tubes/fixture as in this video. So today, i called my local branch Lowe's n found they now have the Type B tubes. A lot of them the man said. So today, bought 4 packs = 8Qty LED tubes. They didn't have one more pack (total of 10 tubes, for my other 4 tube/fixture units). Problem: Two of the four tubes have a strip of dark grey stripe pointing down. Hey, the other pair have the stripe pointing up so i get more light shinning downward! So i kept on twisting the tube suspended betwn the two tumbstone connectors. Kant do it. The tube stops lighting. OK. I dink only one prong on ea. end of the tube has electrical conductivity. I may need to remove the tumbstones and short circuit (shunt) these female connectors? In this way, i can twist the tube 180 degree to align the dark grey stripe toward the fixture's ceiling. The Dark Grey stripe, ~3/8" - 1/2" wide across the tube's end to end must be where the LED beads are glued inside the tube. Later in the day, i've found a pack of 6,500 lumen pack of two tubes, same 32Watts. Hey! Why they (GE) bother to sell the orangish pinky colored weaker light tubes of 4K lumens? Who wants a red light district pinky lighting? Both tube packages r at the same price, 4-2-8ly.
Does anyone know a god chainsaw cain brand that makes a chain to cut nail embedded wood. If mine smells a nail its too late. And sawzall is out of the question.
Pex and crimp fittings are so forgiving.. all of those connections were probably fine if they didn't leak initially. I've even used expansion fittings with PEX-B.. no problem
You know your stuff - well done. There's nothing like rebuilding something that was built (incorrectly) only 12 years ago. My only suggestion is that they add a kick-out to their gutter for that rain water so that their next problem isn't a crumbling foundation.
Good eye, and yes, when they replaced the roof not long after, I made sure they put kick-outs on both sides. It always amazes me that roofers miss something that is code required and essential to preventing water damage.
A better way to do it is to use a glass cutter (unless they are tempered) and then to grab the frame with vice grips and use a type of mini come-along to pull the channels inward. And collapse it on itself. That's a specialty tool though. You don't have to demo the interior drywall, just score it where it is caulked to the window sill. If you have most other types of siding you can remove the trim that sits over the nailing flange and pry the flange up and the whole window can come out without removing the glass. With brick I have not found another way of doing it without removing the glass, or the brick on the front (which is a lot more costly).
@@JohnC-kc5uh Nah, keep it real. Lol. I don't mind. I know I don't do the best job, and I find it funny when people spend their time to tell me I'm horrible. It helped me develop a little more character after the first few hundred times. ;)
I've seen that before too. And no manufacturer recommends it, but I don't think it would necessarily hurt anything... Many times there are very specific scenarios where a method will fail, though it will be fine in every other scenario. Those methods are still discarded so as to ensure a good outcome. Double rings are one of those things I believe. If not just for the higher cost/inconvenience.
So I wasn't pleased with the operation of this and switched to the M18 version which has been excellent. The only Ryobi tool that I might recommend (based on others reviews of it) is the Ryobi P660 which is for the stainless steel type pinch clamps. I've heard good things and you don't have to swap heads between 3/8"-1" (not sure about larger sizes). I'd recommend looking into it.
Yes, it seems like a good system, but there's no supplier for it nearby and the space needed for connections is pretty bad. There are multiple scenarios where you'd have to use a standard crimp ring just because of space.
What my poor verbiage was trying to relay at that point was simply that they aren't using the neutral to carry hot. When you see black and red, usually that means it's from a three conductor cable (Two hots and a neutral plus ground), so they have black and red carrying power in, neutral bringing it back and a ground wire acting as safety in case something shorts. That's all correct and good for most 240v fixtures. Many times you will see people use a black and white (two conductor cable) to carry hot for a 240v circuit and then they use the ground to bring back the current and act as the neutral. That is bad for two reasons. One, since the ground does not have its own protective sheathing it can turn any metal box or fixture into a conductive path for electricity (leading to potential shocks for the unwary user), and two, there is no ground serving to protect the fixture since the ground has been taken to be the neutral (leading to potential shocks for the unwary user again). The only place in most residential construction, is in regards to a water heater. Those don't require a neutral since they are what is considered a "balanced load". There isn't a 120v system in the water heat that needs that neutral to carry back the electricity so that it's balanced. So, moral of the story is that almost all fixtures in a residential house need a neutral whether they are 120v or 240v (except for most water heaters), and every fixture needs a ground.
you humble me, the work you did on this project was absolutely top notch. hopefully i can take some of your advice and guidance and make my project possible. thanks for the video!
Glad you enjoyed it and looking back I'm shocked it worked out so well. I think God had some angels working double-time on it. 😆 But just take your time and don't skimp on any safety measures!
(0:31) I don't even bother to re-install this sheet metal ballast hiding U-channel. My fixture is the same as this video's and even after unhooking the tabs, i couldn't get it out of the fixture housing, no matter how i angled it in 3D space up dare(there). So, i just bent it down, mangled it. No going back. Besides, it'll b EZr to replace the LED long tube w/o it!!! Even the fat old Florescent tubes were hard to get it out of the 'Old' fixture bc. of this center sheet metal. And, i almost broke those fragile square female plastic connectors. So what if the wiring shows. Actually, if u managed to remove this crap, perhaps cut the ends short to hide most of the Ughh-lie wires or even cut it in two w Mr. Dremel, then re-install it. Or, even better, after u unhook the U-channel off the tabs, u can c where the wires are at by tilting. Then, use Mr. Dremel to cut the ends or cut it in half. Make sure to wear goggles and don't open ur mouth while cutting. Für mich ist es zu spät! Liked that 'Split Connector' idea. I've found that 5 prong connectors at Autozon, at their bottom shelf as most of the connectors are single wire to single wire connectors. Thx for this two ballast type video! Oh, make sure u shut off the main breaker panel and do this during daylight hours. Thumbs up n subscribed. Hope my experience wld help the audience here, rather than the 'me too' goody goody gum drop comments i c below.
What I hate are workers who can't / won't even use RU-vid to learn. They show up and do things the wrong way - even though I sent them a video of the right way. Of course these days - especially in our area - getting someone to show up is nearly impossible so you can't fire them. For PEX, a detailed oriented high school student with one hour of instruction and one our of mentoring will do better than 99% of handymen and many plumbers.
The most important rule for ped b is always go up 1/4 in size than code says. Code states its size based off the id of copper pipe. It takes 3/4 pex b to have the same id as 1/2 copper because of the fittings for pex. I use pex a and typically only need two or three fittings which helps flow.
I do size up, but you don't need to size up with everything. Most valves and fittings in a house restrict the flow of water to smaller than what 1/2" pex-B will be able to provide. It's only an issue when you are providing enough volume to a high flow faucet like a tub filler, or multiple fixtures are feeding off the same line. While it's not a perfect formula, due to fittings, length of pipe and psi coming into the house, my rule of thumb is 1/2" pex can provide a maximum of 5 gpm and 3/4 pex can provide 10 gpm. That's if the run isn't more than 30' or so from the main trunk/manifold. The longer the run, the more the psi drops at those flow rates. If I am putting in a tub filler then I am bringing over two 3/4" lines (hot and cold) and connecting to a TMV which will have 3/4" npt connections anyways and I don't have any issues since most fillers are between 8-14 gpm. Hot and cold 1/2" pex lines going to a shower valve with one shower head is totally fine too since it only requires 2.5 gpm. Where I see people complaining is when a 1/2" trunk line is servicing an entire bathroom. At least use 3/4" to each branch...
Agree. If you had to buy a new tool to keep going, maybe you could at least fix the old tool and try to sell the old one for at least $100, or something. Or maybe have a machine shop make you one out of metal. 🤷🏼♂️ Sucks to have to spend $600, because some plastic part broke that is vital to its operation.
If you're really talented, you should make your own replacement part, or get some kid with a 3D printer to make you a new one, if you can't just buy the part.
You're are CRAZY!!! What the heck are you thinking wanting a quality tool. They had to cut cost somewhere. Does the broken part say Ryobi on it? Made in CHINA?
Lol, no Ryobi on it, but the part is actually super cheap ($5 plus shipping). It wouldn't be a huge deal if I could source it locally, but no one has it so I had to order it. One place quoted me a month to get it. Found another place but had to buy another tool to keep going. I also do have a 3d printer, but since the heat melted it, and heat is what you use to create 3d parts, I don't think it'd go too well together... Might last 20 minutes though! It's crazy how hot the motor housing gets... Anyways, a $600 tool should be able to handle removing vinyl!
perfect for my application thanks. My bulbs are marked LN on one side and L on the other. Turns out that they're switchable. All load on one side and and all neutral on the other side and doesn't matter how I place the bulbs. I also use the 4 in 1 plastic connectors - they are excellent! Thanks!
It still leaks, but not near as much as the gen. one 16". All of my saws have leaked bar oil in the past though the 16" was the worst. Now I'd say it's about half as much.
@@MyFortressConstruction Thanks so much for the update. I really appreciate it. Dewalt has done good on so many tools, I just don't understand why they failed with this part!
That's almost impossible to know since it was a remodel and apartment addition on top of a "fix". Could be anywhere from $4k-$15k... So many variables.
best way to fix these problems is to use copper pipe..... proven good for a 100 years.... that grey pipe they used in mobile homes lasted about 30 years ..... i have done repairs on that... if you think copper is too costly ...... how much do you think all these pex plastic pipe repairs cost????..... my parents house in so Cal, was plumed with iron pipe .... still working..... out with the new in with the old ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
It's true, copper and iron have lasted decades upon decades. And typically rats don't chew through copper, though I have yet to experience that with PEX though others have said it's a problem in certain areas. If you plan to be in the home for 40+ years then it's probably a good idea to invest in copper. I've seen a lot of older homes with leaks due to galvanized iron so I'd prefer PEX over that. However, everyone has to weigh the pros and cons of each type of building material for every stage of construction. Brick, stone, Hardie, or wood siding? Tension, or rebar slab? Metal, clay, stone or composite roofing? There's a million options, many better than others (typically higher in cost too) so each person should be informed and they can decide what's most important to them. I definitely put foundation, siding, roofing, plumbing and electrical first when I build. If any of those aren't correct then it gets expensive.
My question is do they readily sell a replacement part for that? ...bc ive had machinery where it was a good thing to have plastic parts sheer off to save the rest of the equipment. Idk if thats the case here though.. seems to be what you said. And if so..? tsk tsk well well now thats not very GREEN now is it milwaukee? ...
Very "climate friendly"" isnt it? To make more resources used when they could just make stuff last. Nope. Whats funny is these companies sign all kinds of "agreements" with the climate initiatives.
