Live, local, direct (well, not really...), coming to you free of charge from Central Texas...some random videos, lately mostly van/RV/Revel/Sprinter- related, posted infrequently, blahblahblah...
Excellent video to outline the wind noise. My local dealer's solution was to replace the windows with the same exact part. They also refused to watch the videos I took while driving clearly showing the wind noise. They simply claim that videos of the issues are not acceptable as per Mercedes guidelines and since they couldn't "Replicate" the problem they refused to do anything further. Nice going Fletcher Jones Mercedes Newport Beach, such a simple solution to a major problem. Thank you for sharing.
I love your videos and tips! Seems like you keep adding to the list of to-do's for my van! How do you create the labels for the water panel and for the ones you you showed in your "More Upgrades" Video? Would you be able to share the templates for the labels or create a video on how you do this?
thank you. Most of the signs and labels I make with Affinity Designer, a super powerful (and relatively cheap) graphics design tool. You get a glimpse of it in my "Custom Switch Panel" video. I then either print the design on paper or transparent film or cut it out with a vinyl cutter. I can send you the template, just reach out via email and I'll send you what I have. if you want to learn more about Affinity Designer and its "sister product" Affinity Photo, head over to the www.youtube.com/@AffinityRevolution RU-vid channel.
Nice video, well done! Very informative and clear. Nice job with sound difference. And the tip with the wiring is pure gold! I'm going to try this first. I Subscribed. Keep up the good work!
Well I finally received my new switch panel and I picked up one that has 4 switches, 12v cigarette plug and one USB/ type C combo and a voltmeter, I would like to ask if you have the details of how you connected up your incredible custom switch panel? Could you please help this old man whose brain is fried trying to over complicate this wiring? The awning has - 3 yellow - 1 white The in/out switch has - 3 yellow (larger gauge) The under light has 3 yellow 1 white Side light has - 2 yellow My new switch has 1 yellow, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 red wanting to go somewhere important, and each toggle has 1 male pin open per switch and everything else is connected or daisy chained together, I'm sure it's straightforward, but I can't find any specific instructions or diagrams for hooking up this type of switch in a 22 Revel. I'm having trouble understanding why the Revel's wiring isn't color-coded or organized in a way that's easy to find online. Any advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated, and I'd be happy to buy you a few German beers if I see you at one of the van meetups! Thanks again for all your hard work! I'm looking forward to your next video! After I hit send to you I thought I should ask GPT to help me and this is what she said to do, let me know if its correct, it's going to take some time to get used to this Ai stuff! Sure, Mr. Shaw! Let's simplify this wiring process for you. Here's a step-by-step guide to connect your custom switch panel with the details provided: ### Components: 1. **Switch Panel:** - **4 Switches:** Each has 1 yellow, 1 blue, 1 black, 1 red wire. - **12V Cigarette Plug** - **USB/Type C Combo** - **Voltmeter** 2. **Devices to be Connected:** - **Awning:** 3 yellow, 1 white - **In/Out Switch for Awning:** 3 yellow (larger gauge) - **Under Light:** 3 yellow, 1 white - **Side Light:** 2 yellow ### Understanding the Wires: - **Yellow:** Likely the positive (12V) wire. - **White:** Likely the ground (negative) wire. - **Switch Panel Wires:** - **Yellow:** Typically the switch output. - **Blue:** Auxiliary (often used for illumination). - **Black:** Ground. - **Red:** Positive (12V input). ### Step-by-Step Connection: #### 1. Power Source: - Connect the **red wire** from your switch panel to a 12V positive source (battery or fuse box). - Connect the **black wire** from your switch panel to a ground (negative) point. #### 2. Switch Connections: Each switch on your panel will have four wires: - **Red (Input):** Connect to the main 12V positive source. - **Black (Ground):** Connect to the ground. - **Yellow (Output):** Connect to the device you want to control. - **Blue (Auxiliary):** This wire can be used to power a light in the switch. Connect it to the 12V positive if you want the switch to light up when activated. #### 3. Device Connections: - **Awning:** - Connect the three yellow wires from the awning to the yellow output of one switch. - Connect the white wire from the awning to the ground (black wire). - **In/Out Switch for Awning:** - Connect the three larger gauge yellow wires to the yellow output of another switch. - **Under Light:** - Connect the three yellow wires from the under light to the yellow output of a switch. - Connect the white wire to the ground. - **Side Light:** - Connect the two yellow wires from the side light to the yellow output of another switch. #### 4. Switch Panel Connections: - **Switch 1: Awning** - **Yellow:** Connect to the three yellow wires of the awning. - **Black:** Connect to the ground. - **Red:** Connect to the 12V positive. - **Blue:** Connect to 12V positive for illumination. - **Switch 2: In/Out Switch for Awning** - **Yellow:** Connect to the three yellow (larger gauge) wires. - **Black:** Connect to the ground. - **Red:** Connect to the 12V positive. - **Blue:** Connect to 12V positive for illumination. - **Switch 3: Under Light** - **Yellow:** Connect to the three yellow wires of the under light. - **Black:** Connect to the ground. - **Red:** Connect to the 12V positive. - **Blue:** Connect to 12V positive for illumination. - **Switch 4: Side Light** - **Yellow:** Connect to the two yellow wires of the side light. - **Black:** Connect to the ground. - **Red:** Connect to the 12V positive. - **Blue:** Connect to 12V positive for illumination. #### 5. Additional Components: - **12V Cigarette Plug:** - Connect the positive terminal to the 12V positive source. - Connect the negative terminal to the ground. - **USB/Type C Combo:** - Connect the positive terminal to the 12V positive source. - Connect the negative terminal to the ground. - **Voltmeter:** - Connect the positive terminal to the 12V positive source. - Connect the negative terminal to the ground. ### Diagram: Here's a simplified diagram to help visualize the connections: ``` Battery (+) ------------------- Red (Switch Panel) | |--- Red (Switch 1, 2, 3, 4) Battery (-) ------------------- Black (Switch Panel) | |--- Black (Switch 1, 2, 3, 4) |--- Black (Devices) Switch 1: Awning Yellow (Switch 1) ----------- Yellow (Awning 3) Black (Switch 1) ------------ White (Awning 1) [Ground] Blue (Switch 1) ------------- 12V Positive [Illumination] Switch 2: In/Out Switch Yellow (Switch 2) ----------- Yellow (In/Out 3) Black (Switch 2) ------------ Ground Blue (Switch 2) ------------- 12V Positive [Illumination] Switch 3: Under Light Yellow (Switch 3) ----------- Yellow (Under Light 3) Black (Switch 3) ------------ White (Under Light 1) [Ground] Blue (Switch 3) ------------- 12V Positive [Illumination] Switch 4: Side Light Yellow (Switch 4) ----------- Yellow (Side Light 2) Black (Switch 4) ------------ Ground Blue (Switch 4) ------------- 12V Positive [Illumination] Additional Components 12V Cigarette Plug Positive ---------------- 12V Positive Negative ---------------- Ground USB/Type C Combo Positive ---------------- 12V Positive Negative ---------------- Ground Voltmeter Positive ---------------- 12V Positive Negative ---------------- Ground ``` ### Tips: - **Use Heat Shrink Tubing or Electrical Tape:** Secure connections to prevent short circuits. - **Label Wires:** If possible, label the wires to make future troubleshooting easier. - **Test Connections:** After wiring, test each switch and device to ensure proper functionality before finalizing the setup. Let me know if you need further assistance or clarification on any part of the wiring process!
Hey Darrin, first of all, let me say that I am going to ignore (not read) anything ChatGPT had to say. While AI has its merits, I don't think it can be trusted enough with these very specific problems. Anyway, in the Winnebago world, all yellow cables are +12V positive and the white ones are negative (ground). Allegedly, they all have a code written on them giving away the function or reference to the wiring diagrams which Winnebago made public: here is the 12V one for a 2022 Revel: www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Diagram/2020/20_b44e_wire.htm The awning has - 3 yellow - 1 white this is the awning on/off (main) switch, right? I don't think my Revel had that (I added one later) so I can only assume one of the yellows is +12V into the switch and the other 2 yellows are connected together a little further up the the wiring loom. one of them is connected to the 'output' side of the switch so when the switch is in the 'on' position, the input side is connected to the output side and feeds the awning. and the 3rd yellow is for the control light in the switch which turns on when the switch is on. and the white one is ground for the control light. How you match this to your new switches I don't really know, they should have come with some sort of diagram which should explain which of the wires are switched and which one is for the control LED. one of them will be ground for the LED The under light has 3 yellow 1 white i'd say this is identical to the awing switch. one 12V in, one 12V out and a 'backfeed' of the switched 'out' back into the switch for the control LED Side light has - 2 yellow if this switch doesn't have a control light build in then it is a simple 12V in - switch - 12V out towards the light. of course if your new switch does have a control LED build in, you can use it by wiring it to the 'output' side of the switch, just like the awning and side board lights are wired. you need to connect ground, of course, you can easily tap into one of the other white wires The in/out switch has - 3 yellow (larger gauge) this one I think is 12V in and then the switch toggles it between the other 2 wires. I'd say the middle one in +12V in and then the other ones, when energized via the switch, are for awing out and awing in. in my switch panel, I did not use a toggle switch, i simulated the function with 2 separate switches. but the concept is the same. if you think about it, a toggle switch is really 2 separate switches in a single housing I don't know if any of this helps, It might be easier if you share some pics of the new switches and what exactly you are up to. you can email me directly (contact details are here in RU-vid somewhere) or join the winnebagorevelforum.com and ask your question there. there are a lot of helpful people in the forum and I'm sure we can help you out
Why not just a float on a thin rigid rod?... with the top of the rod protruding through the top of the barrel...and a flag or some such on the top of the rod. The rod would need some sort of rigid guide to keep it vertical. There would be no algae concerns. And the barrel's level could be known at a glance from a distance. That said, thankyou for the video.
I made it with my vinyl cutter. if you have access to a Silhouette cutter (common in the scrapbook community) I can email you the cut file. or if you send me your address, I mail a cut version to you. my contact details are in the about section here in RU-vid
The method shown would only be used if you did not own a tractor w/ a front end loader. Having a front end loader place a strap around front axe and lift up. Quicker, easier and safer than the method shown.
Great upgrade as usual. I have another for you to look at if your interested, the bathroom vent push it up and go up on the roof and look at it see if your foam seal around the lid is still attached mine was foam held on with double face tape that the heat made it not stick and was bouncing around on the fan.
Thank you for every single video you have made! Seriously, THANK YOU! Unfortunately, with the Revel, you have the opportunity to make 50 more upgrade videos! I would like to remove the top half of the shower and install a folding countertop, along with designing a pull-up shower curtain since I rarely use the shower. Additionally, I want to completely redo the plumbing with a simpler, more practical solution. I'm also looking to pull out all the large wiring and install the Ecoflow system or a 24V system, removing the second alternator because it's unnecessary and I believe it stresses the engine and affects the MPG. The motor and its parts weren't designed for a second alternator, making it a potential hazard waiting to happen. Winnebago's approach lacks common sense in many aspects; they didn't do anything correctly. Everything they touched was wrong, cheap, and easy. I just watched a video on 27North, and you will never see a video of the Winnebago Revel factory floor. The 27North video shows a real quality factory-made van, which is the polar opposite of the Winnebago factory. Everything at 27North is engineered for a reason and uses the best possible parts. It's perfection. They haven't had a single van return for issues, unlike Winnebago, which likely has problems with every Revel van made. Their customer service is practically non-existent, operating only a few hours on select days, with one person answering the phone. This shows a lack of care once the van leaves the factory. God forbid you need dealer service; there are fewer than five trustworthy dealers in the entire country. It's very sad, but we're all stuck with them, so keep making the videos to help us fix their junk. Thank you!
thank you for your comment, I really appreciate it. I do agree that Winnie's build quality and QC leaves a lot to be desired, however, I think at least the overall design and engineering is solid. the aluminum exoskeleton of the upper cabinets and shower and pantry and around the battery bay isn't something I have seen in many other vans and certainly not what any of the small builders can do. Of course this is no excuse for sloppy assembly and for sure not for a van that has a list price of $200k+ With all the modifications you have on your list, it might be better and in the long run cheaper if you build your own van from scratch. 27North are for sure nice vans but they cost quite a bit more than the Revel. One thing you should not need to worry about is the 2nd alternator. The MB engine is designed for a 2nd alternator and in fact the bracket it attaches to is an OEM Mercedes part. In Mercedes speak, it is called option 'N62 PTO at front with bracket for extra alternator'. Of course running the 2nd alternator impacts MPGs, this is simple physics, you need to put power in (burn diesel fuel) to get energy (Watts to charge the battery) out. I think the 2nd alternator is rated at 280A at 14V, this equals to about 4000W or a little over 5hp. and this is when it runs at full output - which it mostly don't as the batteries cannot be charged with 280A for extended periods. So really, these 5hp max, don't put a lot of extra stress on the engine and even if you remove the 2nd alternator and have the primary one charge the batteries, it would need to burn just as much fuel. at the end of the day, you need a certain amount of fuel that the alternator converts into battery power. a 2nd alternator has a little extra mechanical resistance but that is neglectable.
You’re incredible! Thank you for your wisdom! I would like to upgrade the wooden bed slats to something that will span the full width of the bed. It seems like my hips hit right in the center where they join. If I remove the under-bed plastic, it would be nice to upgrade the center “lump,” and I don’t want to do it without your engineering wisdom first! Also, have you thought about having your own Amazon page with all your recommendations for parts, products, and upgrades? Thank you so much!
@@ShawsRU-vid actually, I did upgrade my bed for the same reason you are having. hip pain in the morning caused by the center hump. I fixed this by buying a new mattress. I went with the one from RoamRest (medium firm). it is not super cheap but totally worth the money. I did not make a video about this upgrade because there isn't much to it. toss out the old one, drop in the new one. I'll think about the Amazon page. Indeed I get a lot of questions about the parts and while I don't want to be a channel selling things to my viewers, an overview on Amazon might be helpful.
Ich beneide Dich um Deinen Mut in die Elektronik des Fzgs. einzugreifen. Ich hätte da Bedenken wg. eventueller Fehlermeldungen im Nachhinein. Es macht sehr viel Spaß Dir zuzuschauen wie begeistert und penibel Du an Deinem Sprinter handwerkst. Ansonsten ein Top-Video !!! Herzlichen Dank !!!
Ich habe Dein Video zu dem Hupeneinbau gesehen. Der Einbau eines Relais kommt sonst in keinem ähnlichen Video vor. Teile Deine Argumentation pro Relais zu 100%, würde es auch gerne in meinem Sprinter Bj. 2022 so einbauen. Für Dich alles Gute !!!
This is same principle as a pressure tank for a well water pump (many videos on RU-vid). The accumulator is a pressure tank with an "air balloon" and as water is removed from the system, the balloon expands. The pump motor draws very high electrical current at start up, so the short cycling can over heat the motor. The pressure tank prevents / reduces short cycling of the pump and will extend the life of the pump motor.
My thetford plastic door lock doesn't lock or seal. Coming from a yachting background I find these land based "yachts" incrediblly fragile. Obviously they build them to fail so we can continue to pay these greedy motorhome manufacturers mortgage. Should have stuck to yachts. They can't justify making yachts out of this type of plastic otherwise 100% of owners would reside at the bottom of Davy Jones's locker and the manufacturers would go bust and their md would live in prison
for the cargo nets I used M4. I sized them by the head of the bolt that needs to go through the mounting holes in the net. I think M4 is a good size for most of the small things that are not super heavy. M4 is a little smaller than 3/16" if you prefer freedom units 🙂
no.the correct size is 608 which means it has an outside diameter of 22mm, an inside (shaft) diameter of 8mm and a width of 7mm. because the new ones I used have a seal on both sides, they also have a 2RS in their name: 608-2RS. 6203-2RS are way too big, they have an OD of 40mm, an ID of 17mm and a width of 12mm
Instead of RivNuts in plastic use jacknuts. They expand better and don’t risk cracking the plastic like RivNuts. BTW jacknuts were designed for use in plastic and light gauge sheet metal.
Thank you! My Mercedes 2022 GLE 350 front passenger window started making an awful, loud whistle at high speeds at 13,500 mi. Two days ago the dealer had my car, as planned, for half a day & "never got to it". 🙄 Been driving 56 years & never encountered this before. Your suggestion sounds great!
thank you but I doubt it is the same issue for your GLE. My Sprinter has the problem because of the fixed front triangle window. the GLE doesn't have a fixed window in the front doors. of course you can tape over the door window and see if it fixes the problem but I'd say it can only be a temporary fix - to verify where the noise is coming from. you don't want o permanently tape your window shut. Good luck. tracking down noises is hard.
thank you. the shelf is a hack job, using some pieces of Plexiglass (polycarbonate) , cut, sanded and melted into shape with a hot air gun. then painted red. If I only had a 3D printer.....
What an absolute genious way to save your screws! Good Lord in all my years I have never seen that. I always lean many tings and get great insperation from your uploads but this one just blows my mind. I cant tell you how many times I have tried ow to figure puting something back together. Problem solved! Pure genious!
Thanks for this video! I did the center speaker disconnect on my 24 and am now considering this upgrade. The manual that you linked to also shows the driver side tweeter panel as also being a bit skewed (page 14) so my guess is the fit/build of the trim is slightly off. Thanks again.
