Hello, "BOND Garage" How are you?? Hope you are well, recently I have looked to your channel. And saw that in your channel have many many problems, for this reason channel videos not getting much engagements. Not growing, If you can solve these problems, channel will grow, You want to know these main main problems??? I can tell if you want to know. here or in email!! Where?????
Thanks for the video. I have a M5 Competition package sway bar on my f10. I also have the same issue as yours. The part number for my sway bar is 31-35-7-850-119. I could not find a bushing for the competition package. The diameter reading at the bushing is 29mm. Do you think the bushing part number you mentioned would fit? Your help is very much appreciated.
the size mentioned is always the effective diameter. the mounting diameter of the comp should be the same as the regular M5. so the same bushings I used should work for the comp. at least that would be my best guess.
that's interesting. the braking system should be the same across F10 and F01 other than rotor sizes. try again lol and if it doesn't work there might be a connection problem.
So my tank was pretty full when I did this which I know was not the right way to do this but I didn’t really have a choice. Anyways, when I opened the tank gas spilled all over garage floor. Replaced pump, and now it spills all over floor when running. Did something happen to my tank? Ugh, nevermind, when I was putting everything back together I realized I had lost the little red clip keeping the fuel line attached. No, it will not stay attached without that and now I can’t find the clip. It’s probably in the fuel tank….
Thank's for your video Can you think an failure EKPS can make a long crank when the engine is cold and a low fuel pressure ? But all is ok when you start up after drive it à little bit
aliexpress. there's a video on it on the channel. made a custom layout and had some leds go out already. the internals are kinda flimsy but haven't found anything more substantial. absolute love it though!
Hi, hope all is well thanks so much for your RU-vid videos. They have helped me with my 2011 535ix. I have a question one of my front sway bolts broke and I'm unsure how to extract it. Would you happen to have any ideas on how I can remove it?
that's where experience and the right tools come to play. sorry for the late reply. it really depends on where the bolt breaks. have you gotten it out?
Perfect video, I was searching everywhere for ideas and this video is exactly what I needed to give me an idea. Thank you 👍👍 only worry I have is he heat
if it's same model, engine and year, it should work right away since it has the right coding on there. if it's brand new you'll have to code it. ISTA will do. But somehow it didn't work with my version so I had to get it coded elsewhere. Not sure if you can re-code a module that has been coded already. if anyone knows, pls chime in.
I did a chrisfix. got myself some gauges, vacuum pump and freon. cost me about the same as taking it elsewhere and since I have more cars that might need a refill, totally worth it. Also my system was empty since the compressor leaked it all out.
that's a good question. I've never seen a UK version. if they use the same switch cluster it'll work just fine. but if it's inverted then you'd have to deal with the reverse button order (if it works that is)
I am the same way. Rattles and squeaks drive me nuts. When I'm riding in a friend's car and I hear a noise, I start touching everything trying to find the location of the squeak. I'm always like "dont you hear that noise?!?!"
😂 I understand you 100% sometimes my sunglasses rattler in the ceiling cubby and it bothers the crap out of me. but it's already rubber-lined.. just glad I got this trunk rattle sorted. felt like some ancient truck
you could cross switch components. meaning you take for example a module of which you know it fits and is working as it should, and swap it into the problem car. problem gone it's the module. not gone, might be sth else. other than that it's not worth running any kind of diagnosis on this since it's know to fail, so people just toss a module at it. 90% of times that's probably the end of it.
there are different types. the ones on my 5 are static. rubber only. on my buddies 535xd they are fluid filled. you'll see a little hose on them to differentiate. if you run your VIN through realm you should find the right part number for your car.
@@BONDGarage thanks for your message. I already searched for the right mount with my vin. The resolution says, I have two different mounts. But that's not possible. I already contacted an bmw dealer who will have a look which mount is Bild in. Thank you again.
WOW! I've had my car for over 10 years and never knew that. It's a 2011 F10 535i. This also worked on my wife's 2017 F15 X5 sDrive35i! Thanks so much!!!
Did you torque the e torx when wheels were on ground or used a jack while car was up in the air? I measured the normal ride height from center of wheel to bottom of fender as a reference. Used my jack but the suspension is so stiff that I don’t reach the normal height up in the air. Is that because I may have preloaded the bushing bolt?
I'd subscribe to your logic. if you tighten it with fully unloaded suspension, you won't reach normal ride height since the bushing is working against gravity pushing the car up. as to how much that is.. prolly just couple mills but it'll end the bushing rather quickly. I pushed the wheel up to torque.
@@BONDGarage ya. I’m getting about an inch more when pushing up on the suspension when the bolt is loose. I have torqued the swivel portion. Makes sense since the arm is new and needs to settle. Figure that one inch is fine and I can torque. I don’t think I’ll room to get a breaker bar when the wheel is on the ground
it is but at this point it's actually within my comfort zone. at least with BMW I'm familiar and with realoem and a good manual for torque specs it's not that scary. there's something bigger you might have seen in the background which is pushing me a lot more.
@@BONDGarage I see I was able to do it. I need your help can't remove the sub frame. I see the 2 bolts in the back to remove but don't see the bolts in the front to remove it. Can you help to understand this and I can explain how I did it.
@@Tony-jv5pr I wouldn't and didn't touch the subframe. you loosen that thing, you'll have to align your wheels. just support the engine and remove the engine mount and arm like I did. you'll have to feel for the bolts that connect the arm to the block though. they'r tucked in.
Your videos are amazing! Very helpful thank you. For the rear shock lower bolt some other videos are showing 250nm and normal position for suspension? This does not sound right however?
Hey, looks great! Was thinking of doing this upgrade myself. Would you say the front calipers weigh a lot more/ can you tell any difference while driving?
the weight difference is about what you'd expect. coming from the smaller 535i brakes here in the US it's notable heavier. from the bigger 550 brakes probably barely noticeable. feeling-wise, the first thing I've noticed were the braided lines. so much better pedal feel. they also have a lot more initial bite. can be somewhat annoying around town when coming to a stop. I'm no longer able to stop without jerk. but that's the only downside. absolutely love em! oh yea and the spray paint is meh. better to powder coat them.
@@mattbattinieri6269 yea I haven't considered those when swapping mine. but from what I've read, the pads won't be a perfect fit like with the alpinas. but then again those are single piston and they dust like nothing I've seen before. it's not all just happiness
@@mattbattinieri6269 what do the forums say about a G12 swap? any issues or restrictions you need to look out for? look-wise I'd go for the newer M-perf caliper but also depends on budget.
@@BONDGarage so i ended up ordering the g12 brake calipers and from what i understand from the vids online and a facebook post is the it bolts up same at f01 it just takes a few extra adjustments and a 4.5-5mm spacer instead. I got them delivered today and even the box they were in felt so much lighter than when i ordered the f01 alpina ones
@BONDGarage they claim direct fit on both website of the seller and motorad website. However, I don't know if any coding required. I got it because it was a great discount. I'll update after installation but it will not be soon)
