Ever wonder how excruciating it is to make a dream happen? We’re turning a daily driven 4runner into a Baja1000 race truck, and here you’ll get to see it made, one piece at a time.
Howdy Rich, I responded to your message on FB. I've added your options to my log. Once you finish paying, you're will be in the system for Ambers with Plug-And-Plays .
Hey man! I thought I responded to everyone's messages. I'll look for yours. If you can respond from the receipt email with your preference of Amber, White, or Sequential LED's, and hardwire or plug in play. Thanks!
Thanks. This was very helpful. It took me about 15 mins to figure it out. I added a folded towel to the lumbar area until I can find something better. I got the zipper open no problem. I can't get the clip on the bottom loose. There's 2 plastic pieces that slide back and forth.
Awesome build mate, that dry brake is really high up, having a 25-30L jug up that high to refuel is not ideal. Unless you have a really tall friend haha
Anytime there's oil, grease or rust protectant on the steel, that's when it's time to use acetone or mineral spirits. Acetone is better, mineral spirits is a backup option if there's no acetone available.
I could have missed the sqft of your home? The E100V 8190FFwould be larger than what we need at 1,550 sqft, but it would be used with the fresh air damper, so I think the larger size will run more often, will be efficient, and won't be oversized.
Thanks for the info. We have a two-story home, and the first floor with brick cladding acts like a convection oven for the upstairs. I just completed residing using Zip R6 and reinsulating the attic, which helped mitigate the upstairs temp. I have a question: Where is the best place for the humidity gauge sensor? Upstairs has more humidity, and it would be the best place for it, logically, but the installer said not since it is going to be connected to the HVAC blower--the humidity gauge should go into the HVAC return supply. To achieve lower upstairs humidity, the whole house Humidity % will have to be lower, so then you adjust the gauge, and it doesn't matter where the control is located. Seems reasonable, any thoughts?
@@foodlaw5778 Answer Part 1 of 2. The Model 76 is good if you’re going to change your humidity on a regular basis. Once you figure out your ideal humidity though, it’s probably not going to be touched ever again. If you have walk-in access to the dehumidifier, I would use the controller on the machine itself and forgo the 76. The Ventilation addition I’m using, the 8190FF, can’t use the Model 76 or any remote dehumidify control at all, so I have to use the control on the machine anyways.
@@foodlaw5778 Answer Part 2 of 2. The remote humidity sensor, if used, needs to be in the place you’re having humidity problems, in this case, upstairs. The Model 76 is both sensor and control. In your case, I’d focus on dehumidifying the upstairs only, if that’s the only place that’s uncomfortable. Duct the dehumidifier in parallel to the HVAC system with it’s own dedicated return, so the dehumidified air bypasses the AC compressor and coils entirely. That’ll help alot.
Awesome project. Would you do it again? I am considering having one installed here in Austin. We have a two-story home, and the first floor with brick cladding acts like a convection oven for the upstairs. I just completed residing using Zip R6 and reinsulating the attic, which helped mitigate the upstairs temp. I have a question: Where is the best place for the humidity gauge sensor? Upstairs has more humidity, and it would be the best place for it, logically, but the installer said not since it is going to be connected to the HVAC blower--the humidity gauge should go into the HVAC return supply. To achieve lower upstairs humidity, the whole house Humidity % will have to be lower, so then you adjust the gauge, and it doesn't matter where the control is located. Seems reasonable, any thoughts?
I cannot stress that "second guessing the Pro's" statement. Im also in tech and I see it so much in my own field going back over previous contractors work. To expound on that, Im also in tech and I see it so much in my own field going back over previous contractors work. I think its mostly complacency/laziness as well as lack of knowledge by lower level installers trying to get the job done as fast as possible. I would guess its rare the HVAC "engineer" that designed your HVAC system will also be doing the installation. Thats why its critical to project manage as much as possible. That said, like you...I just DIY as much as possible. Nobody is going to care about your own stuff as much as you.
My dude, I am 6 mins into the video and I love it! I am welding nerd and this is great!!! I seen “ welding engineer “ in the title and I was all over it. I am super pumped to watch the rest. I was a NDT dude for 19 years and I have my CAWI , I missed my CWI but 4 points as of right now (womp womp 😅). I can weld but I am not a welder by trade. And I am working on that right now . I am trying to get into the welding program at my local nuclear plant right now . Keep crushing it dude! EDIT: I am not at 32:31 where you talk about the grain growth. I had no idea thats called epitaxial growth . And whats really cool, is I had no idea you could 4130 thats over an 1/8” with a mild steel filler metal and not need a post weld hear treatment. This is exciting news for myslef, as I to have have some trail rig projects I could use 4130 on possible. Again my dude. I love this stuff. I am actually getting ready to make a video today for my IG. Where I am going to repair a cracked aluminum flywheel from a lawnmower. But I am going to tig half of it . And stick weld the other half . But I am going to run the stick weld with the tig settings on AC and pulse . See if I can manipulate the settings to get the stick rods to weld better. Then I am going to PT it and maybe a cut and etch. I might even go to my old work place and have them shoot it (x ray) for me. I am not to sure yet. Double edit: ahhhh I just got to the end. So you are going to post weld heat treat the parts.
Thanks @Blueweld75! You made my day with that comment! So there's some ways that 4130 can be welded with out a post weld heat treat, I'll bring them up in a future video.
Thank you for video! I’m also in Houston and looking at installing the same dehumidifier myself. I’m considering doing either dedicated return to HVAC supply or tying into HVAC return to HVAC supply. With your install, it looks like you are doing the former. Did you have to do any static pressure test to make sure it’s not going to cause high static pressure when running? Also, are you planning on running the dehumidifier while the HVAC is also running?
Thanks for the video! Looking at getting this same model installed in my home in north Georgia, USA. Quotes are coming in around $6500 for the install of the E100V. I've never done any HVAC work but the large cost has me thinking about it. I have a three story town home. The top floor is on its own HVAC system and the middle and bottom floors are on another HVAC system. The top floor has issues with humidity and keeping temp during the late summer heat when it can get around 90% humidity and around/over 100 degrees outside. To keep the top floor from getting above 60% humidity I have to set the temp low and the unit runs non-stop all day just about.
Dude, thanks for the comment! Yes, $6500 is very realistic for both labor, parts and materials for an E100V install. Since I’m splitting the ductwork, and doing the 8190FF outside air handler, my final cost will be in the $4500-$5000 in parts and materials. If you focus on the 3rd story only, and if you’re not doing the added outside air exchanger, I bet you could do everything yourself under $4K.
0:44 I absolutely agree. I've been floored how much people want for a freaking steel square. With the coupon I used most I've seen make them more expensive than I bought the jack for.
Congratulations Nate! Nathans help has been our key to success racing norra and score races. He is passionate and will leave no question unanswered. Also a fantastic guy all around. Please make a video about the mount you had in the racecar. Sell that sucker. Its something i think is revolutionary. After running norra with a ram mount for the tread i could barely read our course notes.
Cool stuff. If there's space, add a brace. Triangles help. Geometry makes it strong. The exotic materials add margin. Tubes best in tension > compression > bending. What wall thickness is the cross tube on the tubular version? The oe stamping is comparable to a bridge, where the height of the cross section adds stiffness. Of course packaging drives compromises.
It's not a bad idea on classic cars, because many builders are still using regular gas tanks. That, or they're using bladder-less fuel cells. Regular gas tanks allow for some amount of pressure and vacuum buildup, and that one way valve in the carb hat relieves that pressure and gives that fuel vapor somewhere to go. If that gas tank or bladder-less fuel cell suffers a vacuum (or negative pressure), it's not that big of deal. Fuel cells on the other hand are dangerous when they are above or below ambient air pressure. That one-way check valve is not a good idea with race-grade fuel Cells. With race-grade fuel cells like this fuelsafe, they have a woven fabric or polymer bladder that is shrouded in a metal case. The bladders are tensile, puncture and tear rated rather than pressure rated. Any pressure that builds up reduces bladder's ability to absorb energy during a crash. You know how balloons are easier to pop when they're stretched? Same problem with bladder-based fuel cells. They also loose strength when they're exposed to a vacuum, and that's why the one valve shouldn't be used.
Copy. Thank you. Was just second guessing myself. Im a Toyota guy as well with some pitcrew background with Ford . Helping on builds here and there. I love the build.
I'm using 14" shocks right now, but they're limited-strapped to 12" of stroke. I can run either 14" or 12" shocks in the rear, depending on which mounts I use.
@@dragon411320 Dude, kudos on the time stamps! No one's ever done that in a comment on my channel before. Thank you, you made my day. Why do I not like the chests? I grew up in a family that loved doing projects for others. We made many things in our garage, but most of the time, we brought tools to friend's homes to work on stuff at their place. There's plenty more, and I'll respond with a video!
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 ahh now that makes sense for transportation and a bit of insight into personal bias (not in a bad way, we all have bias one way or another for something) and in this case was communal projects of sorts, THAT makes sense in why you went with a PackOut first. I look forward to the video, was just confused as a first time viewer hearing "oh yea its a great system for doing it, but I don't like it" in summary really threw me off at first without the further perspective.
Milwaukee's biggest miss with the packout system is not having a rolling base unit with drawers. Seriously.. who wants to have to take everything on it off to get into that current rolling base?!
