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On the reverse unit in the tender, make sure the rotating drum is clean and contact fingers are making contact with the contacts on the drum, In the engine make the brushes are making good contact with the commutator , sometimes you have take the brushes out clean them and the commutator plates , The item you have with the motor looks like Lionel whistle, if you blow into the opening you should heir a whistle sound
You can run the o gauge loco on dc, it will just run a little bit hotter. And the s guage loco is also ac powered and will do the same on dc power. Although that Bachmann transformer will probably not be enough power to run them, try using a higher voltage transformer to power them. Good luck!
This weekend I bought an American Flyer 75 watt AC transformer for the locomotives. The O gauge locomotive is missing its electric pick up shoes. I’ll probably post a video of my findings in 2 weeks. Thanks for Watching!!
@@lukesvintagetrains5495 I did hook up two Bachmann controllers to the S gauge locomotive and at full power all I got was a hum and a little bit of jittering, but no real movement. I am away from my set up currently so that is the most testing I could’ve done.
Based on the couplers the Lionel stuff is very late pre-war, say 1938-41. The couplers could be un-coupled remotely using a piece of push button accessory track. When production resumed in 1946 they'd switched to a knuckle coupler.
Nice video man but i need help with my athearn bluebox SP45, the couplers on it suck and i dont know how to open the coupler box thing like theres no screw on it or anything, do you know how to open it?
Awesome question. On my Athearn SD45 locomotive, the couplers are clipped on with small plastic black clips that wrap around the diecast chassis. You can either use a screwdriver or your fingernails to clip off the plastic clips. After that the coupler should fall out and you should be able to replace it. That is, if we both have the same generation of Athearn blue box locomotives I do not know how they varied in couplers over the years. Thanks for Watching!! 🚂
Depending on the space that was left after the weight was cut off, re-balance it with a motorcycle wheel weight and another crazy glued to the top of the inside shell roof. Run for a hour or so for the lub to work it's way through and put a little nox contact on the pick ups and slow starting should improve.
A thick white towel to lay these models on is extremely helpful, in keeping them from getting damaged while working on them to keeping tiny screws from getting scattered and lost. I've saved many a tiny screw just be having a white towel under the item I was working on! Nothing worse than to hear a tiny screw "bounce" on a hard tabletop and then it's like GONE... Just saying.
Awesome video. Very enjoyable and I feel very much more informed after watching this informative video, which made me feel very much more informed after watching this informative video, which made me feel very much more informed after watching this informative video 👍🏼
This is a European locomotive with a Ring-Field motor. You can remove the brushes by bending back the copper brush plates before removing the commutator cover, the brush plates are made of soft copper for this reason. I really like these motors, but they are noisy. I see that Luke commented below that it is a Lima locomotive and I agree. Lima is now part of Hornby, and the locomotive is probably 00 GAGE That runs well on HO track. The only difference to worry about is slightly deeper flanges. As for the gear, you can buy used by looking for ring field motor parts. I like the video and can't wait for the next.
Super. I am always looking for small steam locomotives for my railroads sugar mill, but I have never seen this 0-4-0 before in any hobby shop, store, garage sale, or catalog, and I'm pretty old. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
As far as I know for the past 10 years or so, they’ve had the name Maria painted on the side of the cabinet just underneath the windows. Thanks for Watching!!
Super. My Bachmann 0-6-0 shifter and tender with a pancake motor actually ran pretty well for about seven years or so, then I managed to drop it on a concrete floor and almost destroyed it. The cab broke in half, all three plastic pieces holding the axles together broke, (Yep, the geared one snapped.) the front pilot and headlight snapped off, and the valve and drive gear got messed up. After I pouted for awhile, I decided to use that locomotive as a stationary steam and power source. My railroad loads, hauls, and unloads sugar beets, (Small heavy brown beads.) and uses a conveyor belt to load beets into two of the loading silos. I decided to use the 0-6-0 as power for the belt, which was already motorized and functional. I glued the locomotive back together with its backhead, but without a cab, fixed the driving rods and rear drive wheels only, and set it on a foundation by the conveyor belt. I then hooked a drive belt to the grooved traction tire driving wheel, and hooked the drive belt to the pulley on the conveyor belt. Success. The former locomotive actually drives the conveyor belt, and a fake generator, and looks pretty good as scenery also, fitting right in with the sugar mill, and may actually be a better power source for the conveyor than it ever was as a locomotive. The 0-6-0 has been operating the conveyor belt for about twenty years now, and is still doing a fantastic job. A beautiful gently used Mantua/Tyco 0-4-0 steam shifter with tender was purchased and took over for the 0-6-0. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.😅
Super. My railroad still operates five Athearn EMD SW-7 Bluebox switchers, bought back when Athearn identified them as SW-1500 locomotives. Three cows and two calves, almost fifty years old, call my railroad home. Two, a cow and calf set, had radial couplers installed to allow them to work the freight on the trolley line, which has 4 3/4 inch radius curves and is mostly paved street trackage in the city. Good job fixing a classic. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Super. My railroad still has six surviving MU-2 truck drive (A single truck mounted motor with four wheel/two axle geared drive.) powered Mantua/Tyco locomotives in operation. (And one Powertorque drive, and a few steamers, but we won't go there.) Two Plymouth CR-4 center cab switchers, one EMD F-7A, (Featuring an Aussie designed MU-2 drive truck with the screw on, not rivited, bottom cover plate and sideframes.) one Plymouth MDT switcher, a Brill Trolley, and an EMD GP-20, along with a matching EMD GP-20 dummy, call my railroad home. These models are a joy to operate, and MU well with my more modern locomotives. These, and other locomotives, survived my youth (Many didn't.) to become part of my model railroad. All of them operate quite well, even at almost 50 years old. I added dynamic brake blisters to the two GP-20 locomotives, from Lionel HO GP-9s, (Easy, one piece.) as only New York Central had GP-20s without dynamic brakes. I also added lots of weight, (Trolley too.) windows, lighting, Kadee knuckle couplers, better horns, details, and a picture of me in the cabs and at the controls of everything. The trolley got RADIAL X2-f couplers mounted to it (Decades ago.) so that I could haul passenger, freight, or maintenance cars around the 4 3/4 inch radius trolley curves. (Awesome) About 10% of my locomotive fleet, and about 25% of my train cars, are Mantua/Tyco, and all are operated constantly, both inside and outside, even in the rain and snow, which gives them a realistic patina after all these years. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Super. Is that a Baldwin BP-20 Passenger Sharknose and matching "B" unit? Nice passenger train, I hope that you find more matching passenger cars. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Super. If that is a Mantua/Tyco MU-2 drive Plymouth MDT switcher, rather than a Tyco Powertorque drive Plymouth MDT switcher, I have one, and it runs great. It will take 4 3/4 inch radius curves on my trolley street trackage, looks great after detailing, has a full lighting package, operates fine inside or outside in the rain and snow, and the patina from almost 50 years of operation makes it look very realistic. The biggest change was when I put glass in the windows, as it made the switcher look much more like a real locomotive. Nice video. About 10% of my locomotives, and about 25% of my rolling stock is Old school Mantua/Tyco. Take heart Tyco fans, I still have one slightly modified 40 year old dual motored 12 wheel Powertorque drive Baldwin RF-16 Sharknose locomotive in actual operation. (And six other MU-2 drive locomotives survive as well.) This Frankenstein locomotive that resulted from a fall to the concrete floor and destruction for my Tyco ALCO C-630, allowed me to put both drive trucks in one locomotive. (Edit: I was trying for a Baldwin BP-20 Passenger Sharknose C-C locomotive.) I love my short, chunky, pseudo version of a Baldwin BP-20 Passenger Shark, and it can pull 40 cars with ease, but it is usually found pulling my commuter train vs. being a roundhouse scenery queen. I'm glad I got the early Powertorque drives for the Shark, but I destroyed six other Powertorque locomotives before I learned my lesson by trying to pull too many freight cars with too few locomotives. Every locomotive that died on my railroad got turned into a dummy, including the poor ALCO C-630 that I dropped on the floor and had to glue back together, and now I have 19 dummies, from almost every manufacturer, and I have never bought an unpowered locomotive in my life. 🙂 I bet not many of you have a GE 44 tonner dummy. Yes, I cooked both motors on my Bachmann centercab locomotive recently, and it is floating around my layout as a dummy until I can get new motors. My railroad has managed to destroy a lot of "basic" locomotives over the years, but I guess that leaves me with a lot of extra parts for the Shark and some of the other locomotives, just in case, and a yard full of sturdy locomotives that will probably outlive me. P.S. I love my Mantua/Tyco Plymouth MDT switcher. It runs quite well after all the birthdays it has seen. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Super. I still operate two Mantua/Tyco Baltimore and Ohio 4-6-2 Heavy Pacific steam locomotives with long haul tenders on my railroad. When I was a kid, I worked all summer for $1.85 an hour (Yep, telephone operator.) and saved enough for my dream train, an 18 car Athearn Baltimore and Ohio Blue and Gray "Royal Blue" heavyweight express passenger train, (Multiple duplicate cars) along with not only one but TWO Tyco Pacific locomotives. I called six different hobby shops and confirmed a few things and went shopping. I was excited, and it was great having my arms and the back seat full of my new model trains. I actually ended up with 21 B&O passenger cars, (One even has oihO, not Ohio, misprinted on the letterboards. I love it.) one standard Black B&O Tyco Pacific, one "Royal Blue" Tyco Pacific, one "Royal Blue" lighted drumhead for my observation car, and a kit to pick up power from the wheels for my observation car, (Thanks Mr. Mizell.) and a pair of RADIAL X2-f couplers, with mounts, for the fronts of both locomotives to allow double heading. (Thanks Caboose Hobbies.) Sharp curves of 15" radius at the time prevented me from using a regular coupler on the front, but now I may own the only two Mantua/Tyco Pacific locomotives with radial front couplers that exist in the world. I probably spent too much that day, but it was incredible. The Locomotives were $19.99 and $22.97, Athearn heavyweight passenger cars were between $2.99 and $3.59, (Avg. $3.29 each, different stores) and add in the couplers, lighted tailsign, and power pickups, and I spent a little less than $135.00 that day and got 21 passenger cars and two powered locomotives. Nowadays, I spend more than that just buying a single locomotive. Good video. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Super. I still operate a Mantua/Tyco F-7A locomotive that I bought brand new almost 50 years ago, and I kitbashed two Tyco F-7A bodies onto two Athearn Superpower F unit frames (Easy) so I had two single headlight F-7A locomotives with 36" dynamic brake fans, and a filled in pilot with an integral coupler mount instead of the large holes in the body for the frame mounted couplers that most Athearn Bluebox locomotives have. I have had about an equal number of "survivor" Tyco locomotives and "Turn it into a dummy, it disintegrated," Tyco locomotives, but all were fun to buy, open the box, and then bring them to life on my railroad. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
