I have been using this for 3 months almost daily now on a 55lb Newport. It's on an 11ft Zodiac inflatable. I put it in a project box, I added a fan directly on the heatsink, and another fan to move air in the box. So far I didn't have a single problem with it and I ran it for about 20 min at 35A continuously. I have a temp probe installed and it went fro m 28C ambient to 32C on load, which is perfect. If anyone is interested in the components: there are 2 channels, one for fwd and one for reverse. For each channel, it has 2 relays with no inscription on them (they look like 80A each, so 160A per channel), 2 flyback STPS41H100CG Schottky diodes (80A per channel, which seems undersized), 8 mosfets STP75NF68 (80A each). The Mosfets have proper gate protection. The 8 capacitors are 470mf rated at 63V. As a tip for anyone, I am using an APC propeller (10x5LH) instead of the stock prop. My speed increased from 3.9mph to 4.8 mph, while the max amp draw dropped from 48A to 34A. It's a huge battery saver. There are some videos on youtube with tests for speed and amps. Anyway, about the speed controller - so far so good, seems like a well made board.
With the yak power system I'm wondering if you could use the same port to power your ex system as you do to plug in your charger as long as you weren't trying to use both of the same time.
Good info! I'm finally looking into the tiller steering method for my kayak as I move my NK300 back to my Native slayer 13. I have not been happy with my original homemade hand steering and the foot pedal steering when using it on my ATAK 120. I just find that with a powerful motor like the NK300 (3hp) the steering cables become hard to move, even with pulleys. My preference for the actual tiller is a thin fiberglass rod with flex on the end. I could run them through eyelets and the flex should allow raising the motor. I'm not likely to stand while running - too old for that!!! I'm even considering trying an old broken tipped graphite fishing pole. I'm curious about your opinion since you are one of YT's top kayak innovators, IMO!
Thanks Michael. You could try driveway markers. I used one for an outboard extension. Here is the link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MmliRN_Th9Y.html
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks - longest driveway markers I found were 6' and I needed a little more. I just produced what looks like a perfect tiller handle using old graphite fishing rods with broken tips, epoxying together sections to make a lightweight, strong 7' tiller with a perfect handle. I screwed and epoxied a stainless eye into the end and used a 12" yakattack track screwed to the triangle offset to one side to attach to the motor. It is extremely smooth and easy to control in my garage. I will be testing with the NK300 on the water in a couple of days.
Strictly speaking, this is NOT a servo because you can't move the motor in small increments to precise locations. From an anglers perspective, this is pretty awesome, but with an *actual* servo, you could have an Arkanoid style paddle that corresponds 1:1 with position / direction of the motor.
@@Aksmaniyak now THAT i didn't know! I spent a few hours today researching Synchros and Servos because i was dreaming of something electronic but still a little more precise. :)
@@Aksmaniyak I love the simplicity of the 2-channel remote setup! But i'm also an electronics nut and know there's a way to make the remote control be 1:1 and VERY snappy by using a different control scheme. A synchro/servo setup would be electromechanical and VERY reliable, but the parts are pretty obscure at this point. Servos and steppers are available which would be ALMOST as accurate, using a potentiometer for input. The key difference is that the remote would work like a steering wheel, where the position of the wheel sets the position of the motor. With a synchro, there would even be force-feedback from the servo on the motor!
In the previous version you used a separate BEC that stepped down to 7.4v The 880s internal BEC steps down to 6v per the specs. Do you notice any difference?
This works perfect for my Ascent FS10 Kayak. I now have a triple layer Old Town Loon Hull and it does not pass signal through the hull.. Anyone have suggestions?
Ha! Wish I saw this before screwing on a 6” mending plate on my Crescent CK1 transom. But I got it done regardless :). Loving your videos and can’t wait to add steering and ESC sometime
Hi mate,,,,That's amazing how it works good idea could i order one from you please,,,,,,,i don't know what to buy,,,or could you send me the parts list please
I have haswing 12v 65lb 50a 600w trolling motor, will a 50a circuit breaker work or do I need a 60a circuit breaker? My battery is a 12v200ah.. thanks in advance
why is it that people can use these type of kill switches on their trolling motors when they are rated for 5 amps? the maximum draw on the smallest 30 lb thrust motors is 30 amps. Being that these are normally closed switches how are they not toast after constantly being under an amp load that's significantly higher than what their rated for.
@@Aksmaniyak Your pedal steering is great. Would it be possible to add the speed control to, say, the right pedal? Almost like an old-school riding lawnmower? That would make everthing to do with the moter handsfree.
@@rickasisco Ok, now I understand. That box is sealed and came with the kit. I'm sure it's just an adjustable UBEC set at 6V circuit like I used in another project.
Great video! I noticed the server would steer the kayak in the opposite direction of the joystick. Is there a way to reverse this so the joystick point would also steer the kayak in the same direction?
Hey I did this to my kayak. When I start my controller and motor and go foward it works fine sometimes but for the most part when I throttle it in either reverse or foward for more than 3 seconds, the power seems to go out a lot and isn’t as powerful. It won’t go any faster and will stay loosing power until it just doesn’t work. Do you think this is my battery or what am I doing. Wrong
My controller when I installed this makes my motor go foward and all of a sudden just stops out of nowhere and goes randomly when I press. What could be the problems?
Do you need to disassemble the head unit to bypass the onboard controls? or do you just leave it turned on and on high and plug the PWM in the power lines going to the unit and just use the pwm to control it and that's it? I'm looking to get a small trolling motor and be able to control forward and reverse, and speed from a controller box in my kayak cockpit. And I know nothing about trolling motors. Anything you can share would be greatly appreciated!! Hope to hear back from you, I know this is an older video but I hope you see this! Thanks!
Glad to help. With this build, you need to remove the stock switch and connect directly to the +,- of the wires that go down the motor shaft. Other PWMs, can be run with the original head unit with the speed set on high.
Congratulations sir. You showed me the rabbit hole and I've jumped in. If I wanted to add a kill switch, would I just put it in line with one of the leads from the pot? (please excuse my ignorance. I'm great with wood, terrible with electronics). Thanks in advance!
Thanks! The Haswing kill switch is much more complicated. I'm the admin of a FB group that has members who can help you with that. Here is the link if interested. facebook.com/groups/3521517597860461
this has to be the best video on this I have viewed. I love the way the install is clean and neat with the line guides and internal line run. I have 2 Titan 12's that I am going to put Trolling Motors on and needed a way to handle the steering. This definitely helps. Thanks a ton.
Is this a complete no go for salt water use? Would you recommend the other type of steering you used in other videos due to salt water use? Thanks for the videos man you’re knowledge and abilities are amazing!
Thanks Gabriel! I would not use this in salt water. Although some DIY builds may hold up in salt water, I would recommend a motor specifically made for SW.
