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@mikem5475 you never mentioned using just an epoxy type fill. You mentioned a loose fit block guard. Epoxy or cement fill isn't anything, old school guys have been doing that for sometime. Does it work, sure, are there better methods, yep. The pull out method also works....but well...not all the time.
I'm unsure on the loose aluminum filler, but look into the stuff summit racing sells. If you're trying to save money I'd recommend that by itself. Be mindful on the coolant flow as well and how it will hinder it.
If it has the hatch pull down (not sure of the year) it can get into a state where it hits max torque and doesn't shut off and will kill the battery, however it will reset itself when it drops below a certain voltage, so when you charge back up it doesn't drain the battery until the next time you open and close the trunk. The fuse for the pull down isn't in the fuse box it is from the factory a inline fuse that hangs out beside the fuse block. (my 89 firebird did this to me in 2001 took me forever to figure out , I did my LS/t56 swap on it 7 years ago). The factory harness on thirdgen fbodies runs through the fender there and in to the car, it is very common in swaps to use the same routing. As long as you use the plastic block that clamps around the harness and closes in that hole to keep the weather out of the car interior and there are no splices in the harness there it will never cause an issue. I did all the work on my car, even did the tuning with HP tuners on it (I used a GM computer not Holley on my LS swap). I will say I've seen very few cars people pay to have swapped turn out well, if anyone is paying to do a swap they need to do a lot of research on the shop.
@@RCautoworks yeah figured it was something else with the wiring modifications but thought I would mention it. First place I look on third gens with a battery draw that is hard to track down. My car looks factory, all gauges work, AC works etc, I wish more thirdgen swaps were clean and not hacked in.
No but keeping this in mind, if you buy a used engine that's been sitting for awhile, you may not get 100% accurate results. It's usually optimal to do a test after the engines been running to ensure expansion is happening. So to answer the question, yes it can be done outside of the vehicle but be cautious with the results as well.
Good stuff man. I do love the way you explain everything. You're truly an OG and a mentor for the community. I recently learned that people don't know what they don't know and just because I understand something doesn't mean that they understand it I think you know this also and why you make these videos keep up the good work I know editing and reviewing things is very hard but you do a great job man we're all here for it❤
Sir, good evening, I am super motivated to know how you carried out the work of adapting the H23 engine to the Corvair. I ask you to please send me the video of that work, if you can. I will be eternally grateful. I believe that you adapted that engine. to the original Corvair drive train, thank you for your attention.
I have a question just finished the install and AFR is set at 13.5 but Sniper is @15. Also it is adding 50% fuel @ idle any suggestion or is this normal? It idles fine have not driven it yet as it needs a accelerator cable
Hey. I bought a pistons / rod kit and my wrist pins won’t fit into my rod small bore. Some people say pins need to be fitted at a shop? Is that common? Thanks
@@RCautoworks unfortunatly this is a Chinese brand and instructions are limited. They mentioned heating up the rod and try getting it in, but these are not press, and these are floating to my understanding.
FOR ANYONE reading THIS comment! DO NOT WASTE your hard earned money on Hondata Kpro!!! They have ZERO customer support!! The unit is DATED and ANTIQUATED!! Like an OVERPRICED DINOSAUR!! I TOTALLY REGRET EVER buying one!! I WILL be selling mine off to go Fueltech!!!
Unfortunately most of these young guys never had to match parts 30 years ago on a small block build etc and they hear from someone on facebook or TikTok running that part. Then want to argue, even though they don't understand the basics before they start throwing parts at a car
We used to love those kind when I started a speed shop with my racing buddies 30 years ago. Once we showed them what machining and matching could do, they didn't care about the brand names, they just wanted the performance gains.
@searlearnold2867 yeah, it was alot more about the specs and what fit together, more like proper pieces to a puzzle. Nowadays, kids hear this cool car is running this, or hear on social media that that is the best on the market and then they run out and buy it, and then blame the conpany when their car runs like shit because cam is too big, or runners are too big, for their specific application
What id i want to put my car back to stock ecu? I tried to do it because i wanted it to sell it but when i did it my car went into limp mode. What can i do?
Scan the check engine light and see why it came on. Most likely you have something installed like a lightweight flywheel, or if you have an intake on and flashed it back to stock, it could run rough. That's why you need to scan codes and figure it out.
@@RCautoworks i checked it out and the codes are: random/multiple cylinders misfire detecede And the codes are :P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304. I think it happened because my car is bone stock, and i have the stock flywheel and clutch. And the engine thinks that the car has a problem bc of that. But with the hondata i put it back to stock (the ecu) and now the car is going into limp mode, with the VsA,tmps,check engine flashing light and the car doesn’t go more than 3k rpms. And i want to sell the hondata. What should i do!?
@@scrappycoco2671 either you need to keep flashpro and have a tune installed disabled the misfire codes. Or you can remove the flywheel and install a stock one. Those are the only two options you really have. Unless you wanted to switch over to something like Haltech
I’m in the Chicagoland area and you appear to be a knowledgeable honest tech on S2Ks. I’m interested in a turbo build on my 2004 s2000. Roughly what is the cost including labor? Looking for around 500 whp.
Way to keep your boundaries. Why are people so glib and decisive rhetorical language that turns formerly crystal thinkers, into a Hatfields vs. MacCoys type conflict.
What's next- hood s sealed an the dealer is the only one to work on it. Stock wheels an exhaust or the cars crushed. Anyother words if you want a fast car, you have to buy stock fast. No vtec turbo k20. 😢
Too cool for school! A Spyder drove up beside her and took Ms Muffet's breath away ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-C1lHoNG2SHg.htmlsi=_kz4oTtf_qF0XrmO
Again, most guys dont have block guards installed correctly to begin with. Installing it outside a machine shop just wont provide the intended benefit. For any degree of proper benefit, a welded block guard, installed prior to final bore/hone is the only way to do it. This is where CSS came from. Same concept, different procedure. And you arent doing that on your own.
Sir, I would like if it is possible to see the video of the adaptation of the H23 Honda engine to the Corvair, I am very attentive to your work and I wish you success in your role. Thank you for your attention.
Did this problem solved out? Can you explain the issue of the vacuum line from turbine housing to manifold, do you have any experience on that as im having boost creep at high rpm and i suspect that wastegate is maxing out at high rpm.
I would need to know the setup, the tune and dyno sheet to exactly be able to see what's going on. There's so much that can come into play with boost creep.
Confirmed my dyno session today. Can't wait. But what motor oil do you recommend for turbo b series? Has break in oil in it now for the first few heat cycles.
Beautiful Car Dre.. I'm loving all the Hondas. The RSX is a beast. The engine bay is emasculate. About losing your Father is rough. I lost my dad to Covid in 21' and I'm still trying to come to terms of that. We'll never get past that as it's just apart of us and our daily. I really like this style of video of having some car friends hanging out and talking about their cars.
I really do appreciate your videos , man. Did you ever do a video on , Whats the first 5 upgrades to your K series Engine for Power?? I'm sure everyone has their thoughts but I'd like to hear what you have to say on it. I've got the CAI and Downpipe with Ktuner. I also have 410 injectors I haven't put in yet. I wanted to buy a new Fuel rail . My engine already has a 50VTC installed. Im really wanting to swap in a stick and take out the Auto. Everyone keeps telling me to just throw a Turbo on it and it'll be fine. All I really want is 350 hp and I'd be happy for a daily. It was nice to hear about the Block guard not being a good idea. Oh I'm running a K24z engine which I hardly see anyone doing anything with except the Miata boys.
You are my number one guy I go to because I enjoy your Tuning Video's. Great knowledge to know and learn. Tunning my 2012 Accord on Ktune can be a pain in the butt the way you have to tune Fuel and Air with the Curve map and not actual numbers for the Fuel.
Thank you for the positive words, ktuner is fairly different and can be complicated at times. We have other shops every now and then call with ktuner questions so don't beat yourself up to bad.
sr me gustaria si es posble ver ei video de la adactacion del motor h23 honda al corvair, estoy muy atento a su trabajo y le deseo exitos en su funcion gracias por su atencion
Kpro and Kpro 4 is VERY Very close to THIS. I watched a gazillion videos on the Hondata for Kpro And no one I mean no one explains it right you made it very concise very easy to understand thank you very much! Hopefully if you haven’t already done some videos you could do some Kpro 4 videos.
I really appreciate that comment, I do have a kpro video out there as well. I do have some more coming out soon. Thank you for watching and also commenting ❤️