This is the RU-vid Channel for Awen Lutherie, makers of fine electric guitars. This channel will host videos of our work, tips tricks and lessons, as well as video diaries of entire custom builds. Here, you can a watch a piece of wood transform into an instrument in front of your eyes, maybe learn a little something along the way and hopefully enjoy yourself!
We are also on Facebook and Instagram, where we post regularly about our day to day work. Don't forget to subscribe to our channel, and share it with your friends if you enjoy what we are doing!
Of course, if you like our work and are interested in getting something built, don't hesitate to get in touch and we can have a chat! There's every chance that your guitar build may well make it onto the channel!
If you're getting premade neck shims, you can measure the distance from the front of the neck pocket to the bridge saddles, plug that figure along with the desired increase in bridge saddle height into an online triangle calculator to give you an angle for the shim.
I am poised on the edge of jumping into the expense and time of doing a proper level, crown dress and polish on my guitar. This video was very helpful - it definitely goes beyond what I have seen on the Crimson Guitars website - which seems to be the main online Luthier site here in the UK. Great job - thanks very much for taking the time to do this
I advise those who have heavy fingers to use 6130 stainless steel frets. 6130 frets avoid accuracy problems, and stainless steel avoids premature wear of the frets which also produces tuning issues to a lesser extent.
And I thought I knew all about intonation🤣 The more I learn the less I know. I solved my tune-o-matic problems by using Nashville bridges, which has a wider setting range than a standard ABR-1 bridge. Nice grain on the guitar. Is that swamp ash (my favourite)? Thanks for the really useful and well presented info. I will definitely check out the rest of your stuff 𝄢🎶
There is one aspect I'd like to see addressed that NO ONE talks about. First I'll say, I'm a fan of SS simply because I have to see shady luthiers much less frequently if at all. But the only thing I DON'T like is they never get ANY flat spot on them, that flat spot you get when a well broken in guitar has the BEST tone. That contact point is so important. And yes, I know the intonation isn't perfect. But I've played on pointy frets with great intonation but felt like SHT. That flat spot needs to be engineered into the scale and understood from a tone aspect. SS doesn't give the best tone, not because of the material, but because they never get that broken in contact point. Would love a response and a respectful conversation about it. I know this is not an unknown subject, because Gibson used to put flat crowns on their guitars. My 99 SG Std. had them, until I eventually needed work on it. Totally changed the tone and feel.
@@artysanmobile It's a matter of perspective. I don't miss flat spots when they're so flat that it buzzes the next fret. I'm saying that there is a solid connection that gives better tone. They should all be crowned slightly flat. Like I said, Gibson has done this straight from the factory. And it takes a long time before fretwork is needed because the contact area is larger so the string isn't grinding down a small area with all the pressure.
@@artysanmobile Look up Gibson School Bus frets or Train Track frets. They did this for a long time. It has advantages and disadvantages. Tone is amazing. Wear time is amazing. But as it wears it does tend to create a burr on the side of the frets that catches your fingers, but only over a long period of time.
Absolutely brilliant! You described all the concepts of neck angles fully and explained the options and how to decide which option you need to choose. It's everything I wanted to know for building my first electric guitar. Thank you!
Hobbyists woodworker here, been a machine tool woodworker for 35 years (a Disciple of Norm) but have in the last 15 years been turned on to hand tool woodworking. I’ve been mesmerized by some of the amazing “tool walls” on RU-vid but am leaning towards a traditional English tool box possibly on top of a rolling cart with drawers in it to bring the height up a bit (I’m apparently not getting any younger, which I must say is seriously annoying;) great video and nice kit !
I'm adding a trem block to a body where the routing is already done for the block, but no mounting holes for the bridge screws...so use the same 'high E saddle all the way forward' system?...find the scale length point using the high E saddle all the way forward, then square and center the bridge, and...voila...correct?...mark where the screw holes shall be drilled and that should be the correct spot for the trem bridge... Also, do you have any videos on how to set the spring/string tension for a Strat-style floating tremolo system that will ultimately stay in tune? Just discovered your channel, you explain it in easy to understand terms...thanks! Subscribed.
Need to refret my 1971 Silvertone Teisco. It has ( medium?) jumbo fret on it. Doing as much research(and buying tools) before I dare start. Ps my Squire CV 70’s Jaguar has the vintage tiny frets in stainless.
Superb video, this has saved me countless headaches and time. Awesome job and I’m going to be digging through your others. Keep up the great work. Nice looking bass too
You said that compound radius numbers represent 1st and last fret, but most common explanation is that it is 1st and 12th fret. Is there any luthier standard on this?
at 3:10 when you measure the scale length, the ruler is bending from the height of the neck to the lower height of the body. Doesn't that cause issues with the actual measurement? Should the ruler stay straight and not bend down?
I'm about to do this on my first "build", a parts P Bass with fretless neck and Longhorn pickups/electronics. I've drilled and fitted the neckplate and neck. It was a tad low but otherwise accurate. This is an excellent explanation as I had already finished the body and was concerned about messing up the finish.
Loved your video. I'm planning to build an inexpensive headless, weight reduced Les Paul. Any suggestions you have on bridges & necks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again
Metal strips are fretWIRES. Frets are the spaces between the fretwires. There is no such thing as a tremolo bridge. It is a "vibrato bridge" because the bar is a vibrato bar, NOT a tremolo bar.
