Welcome to my channel! This series of videos documents my attempts to brew beer from grains and hops I've grown myself. I hope you enjoy them. For more detailed information about the process check out my blog brewingbeerthehardway.wordpress.com/
Great content, I'm getting into home malting mainly because I want to make smoked malt the proper way. I'll give brown mal a try, it's almost impossible to get some here in Germany.
Thanks madchem, most of my malts are smoked these days since I try to use my barrel kiln as much as possible, we have oak pellets here for Bar-b-queing which give a nice mellow smoke flavour.
@@JFDyment great to know you're still malting at home! Did you stop publishing your content? I got a pellet smoker but it's difficult to control the temperature under 70C. Why do you kiln the malt at low temperatures during the first stage? Would a higher starting temperature somehow denature the enzymes faster in the early stages compared to when the malt is almost dry? I know that dark Munich is kilned "out" at over 100C so maybe there is a different degradation of the enzymes depending on moisture content in the kernels, I just couldn't find any info about this.
I'm sorry, but you're talking about cyanides, alkalis, picking dark grains... Listening to you on youtube, african women will probably be amazed - these americans are afraid of all this, How can they even leave the house, after all there are so many dangers on the doorstep! :))) In Black Africa, sorghum malt beer is a traditional drink prepared by housewives in every village. Look at other movies like these good women making beer for their families, they really don't bother with everything you talk about. The grain of sorghum is soaked, malted, dried in the sun, crushed, poured into warm water, often with the addition of corn flour and slowly brought to a boil. Once the liquid is drained, it is fermented. And that's it! If you often prepare such a drink, choose from the grains only the thickest rubbish, otherwise life would not be enough to play Cinderella! If we do not allow to get into it various unwanted and inevitable in a simple rural farm extras such as flies, manure and worms, then this beer is certainly more natural than those highly processed beer products of industrial civilization. And if this beer doesn't harm africans, why would it harm us? Did God make us from another clay?:)) Best regards, and I hope I didn't offend you with my post since that wasn't my goal.
I also have to ask how you are carbing your beer? If you are using priming sugar, I would suggest not. I would recommend krausen carbing your oat beer. Save some wort back after boil and freeze it until after fermentation and thaw it a day or so before you pitch a little yeast to get it going, or just pitch the thawed out wort before bottling as a gyle. There is a calculator on Brewers Friend that will assist in getting the amount right. These might be great options for cleaning up flavors as they should. DISCLAIMER: I have never brewed a 100% oat beer.
I wonder what your temperature was during germination on the second test. When we plant oats, the cold isn't as big a factor for germinating in the ground. We can pant in mid March before the ground temperature reaches 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
I recently tried to malt some Pearl Barley, since it was husk-less i steeped it for a much shorter time and got chitting on the first soak, i think it drowned as i didn't weigh out the grains and calculate the water content. A few grains have germinated so i presume i've just screwed up. it's much harder than one might think
The problem is the pearl barley. Pearl barley has had the husk and outer layers removed and all your left with is the starchy part of the grain. I'm surprised that you got any germination. You will have a much easier time if you can find some whole grain barley
So the drill tool (Sheetrock mud mixer) with the chains are used to seperate the barley from the stalk? Is that correct? Then you just use a fan to blow the stalks away and collect the grain like that?
Hi, I am just getting into this now, its nice to see others going through this process. As far as flavor, de Clerck (p.480) states that "On no account must the pitch impart any flavor to the beer." I think it is just for protection from infection as you stated. His formula is the resin you have, 10%-20% resin oil (obtained from the distilling process) and 2-5% paraffin. It should be soft at 40ºC and should melt at 55ºC.
By couching; you are referring to fermenting correct? I'm unfamiliar with the technical terms used in brewing so I have to ask, but it makes sense because that would cause the rise in temperature you witnessed.
I know this is old, but just had to say your resources have been invaluable. Being from Australia, really appreciate the metric conversions! Malting my first batch this week, has all gone to plan because of you. Cheers mate👍
He mentioned he paid ($12/44lb) = $0.27 (assuming canadian $) per lb. If we assume malt is $0.80/lb, his feed barley is still a third of the cost. That being said malt is way more expensive than $0.80/lb. The cheapest malt I can find nowadays is about $1.40/lb (Briess 2-row) which would still be 2.8 times more expensive than your $0.50 feed barley.
Brewers pitch is more than just pine resin. There is also a proprietary blend of oil and paraffin. This is described in another Pilsner Urquell documentary. They also cooked the resin at 180-200⁰ C until the pitch turned olive/brown/black I'm on the hunt for how they did it in 14th century recipes. I'm going to try adding beeswax.
late to the party by a few years, but you say you can do up to 30 lbs at a time with this setup? do you turn the malt throughout? or does the fan make that a non-issue?
Cool. I tried malting sorgam as well. I wanted to make African umcombiti beer. I ran into the same problems as you did. Instead of using lye I used diluted hydrogen peroxide. It is pretty harmless and very effective at killing mold spore. I only let it soak in the hydrogen peroxide for 15 min. That was not enough. I should have left it longer. I did start to get mold after 3 days. So I stopped the germination and roster them. I soured the mash for 24hrs and assed white corn flower and brewed the rest like a normal beer process. The result was ok. According to a South African friend it was very authentic tasting. But it was not something I could drink a lot of. Also I search a list for a place to buy sorgam from. Finally I found it at Ethiopian grocery store.
Kiwi john here, what you need is a old clothes dryer, i set mine to warm it holds15-20 on dry its 45- 50 on dry. A plane malt done in 2 hours and you don't have to stand watch it , job done.
I am about to use it for mushroom cultivation Could you please tell us how to make light malt extract powder? Or any steps to be added to this vedio to achieve that? Thanks alot
I'll have to give it a try, from their description of "sourdough/tangy" my guess would be that it spends some time in the 40-50C range while green before bringing the temperatures up to dry it and toast it. Just a guess.
For my last batch I super-aerated the steep with about 100ppm hydrogen peroxide, which is also enough to act as a sanitizer and substantially reduce microbial growth, though h2o2 has a very short half-life under these sort of conditions (like 12hours) the decomposition products are water and oxygen. I did notice a distinct lacto-yogurt smell (maybe a touch of vinegar) a day or two after chitting but I didn't taste any noticeable sourness and the smell subsided by the time I was ready to wither it. I was also using a fairly high moisture target adding water throughout germination.
100ppm is about 3.3ml(3/4 teaspoon) of 3% peroxide per liter of water, or 2.5 teaspoons per gallon, 1/4 cup per 5gallons. 25ppm is actually enough to treat reasonably clean water for drinking(given enough standing time), I just used 100ppm because all the organic matter(pounds of barley) and the chlorine in my city water tends to neutralize some of the h2o2 right away. Also H2O2 is good for removing chlorine and chloramines.(though I forget if it is a reduction or oxidation reaction, which will be determined by acid or basic pH) Ascorbic acid or sodium thiosulfate(cheap, sold for film photography, and several other uses) are also good at dechlorination.
So would you say for a similar amber color, the low and slow roast gives a more sweet and malty roasted sort of flavor while hot and fast gives more of a toasted dry flavor? Might try 275f and 325f, there is a big change in the rate of caramelizing around 300f (not specific to malt, just general cooking science) 250f is really at the bottom of the range and 350f is just hot enough to cause reactions all the way up to carbonizing.(The only reason to go higher than 350f is for reasonable speed when going very dark or quickly toasting the surface without over cooking the insides.) At 250f I would guess most color is from mailard reactions or oxidization and very little from caramel.
