I am interested in all things EVs and like to share this info with others. I try to keep it short and to the point as your time is precious.
EVs in general as well as technology fascinate me, so I might sometimes venture into other topics like that.
Feel free to message or email me with any questions or comments. If you need a Tesla referral link, feel free to use mine at ts.la/cameron69468 but if you have a friend or family member that has a Tesla, use theirs first. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, I needed this, though found it fairly easy to see the coolant level with a flashlight without removing the tub. Shine it on the far side of the level lines or even down the spout.
That’s a good point! When I checked it, it was low enough that I couldn’t see it from the top, but I imagine most people’s levels will be higher than mine, and I probably could have seen it from the side with a flashlight. Thanks for sharing!
How many miles are you at? It’s a closed loop, so it really shouldn’t go down, but at the same time I don’t think (someone can correct me if I’m wrong) that it’s a sealed loop, so I imagine over time a bit can evaporate out or whatnot. I just checked the other day since I did the video, I just crossed 150k miles and it looks the same to me as when I topped it off. So I don’t think I have a leak, but do think slowly going down with lots of miles could be normal.
Great video but my hubcaps don't have them things at all & on my 19" Gemini Model Y tesla they make a popping noise from 2mph till about 10mph .... WTH can it be ???
I also have the problem that the middle part with the hub gets completely broken. Now it's all 4 wheels. Was imagining that it was that that causes the problem, but I will try this anyway, this might still be the main problem.
I think you’re on to something. Doing this solved my problem but it eventually came back and got to be worse. It was less of a creaking sound and more of a rattle (that’s the best word I can think of) and removing the aero caps completely resolved it for me. Two of the center rings had fallen off though, but lucky for me were still attached so I could out them back on. Cheers!
Not as far as I can tell. Just checked it and the level seems to be ever so slightly lower than where it was, so I may have a super slow leak somewhere. I’ll bring it up next time I take it in for service and have them take a look. I thought it might just be slowly evaporating or something as it is at almost 140k miles now. Hasn’t caused any issues yet, and no customer facing alerts. 🤷♂️
No need to replace it, another guy posted a video where all he did was loosen the 13mm bolt lifted the check strap while tightening it and that worked for me... the noise is gone. I did spray it with WD40 for longevity. I tried this fix after I bought a new check strap and it was louder than my original part with 146k miles. People should try this before they order parts.
I saw this and tried it. Fox lasted a few weeks for me and came back. Honestly think it’s hit or miss due to the quality not being that great. These check straps should be lasting quite a bit longer. I do think people should try that first before replacing though. Can’t hurt! That could be the solution. If not, they can always try swapping for a new one
By chance is your car 2020 or later? I’m wondering if the refreshed wheels that came out sometime in 2020 (I can’t remember when) no longer have the tabs. If that is the case, I wonder what is causing the sound.
Nice to see and follow the step by step instructions. Subbed the channel, since I may have to do it at some point(heard the creek sometime back, but not now). Also wondering, what caused the issue, is it a breakage of the part, or could it be remedied with some silicone grease? Just some 💭❤️👍
In my experience it is a bit worse when it’s colder outside, so hopefully you have some more time until it gets worse. I’m not exactly sure what the cause is. I tried to do some silicone based WD40 and it didn’t make a difference for me. Appreciate the sub! Means a lot for smaller channels like mine! Cheers!
My model s 85D 2015 didn’t have the original white light in both rear doors. However, I did find the power cable for it. But when I plug in the new lights, there no power to that plug in the rear doors. Only the front doors is working. Do you know if I need to add a fuse somewhere?
Mine just turned on and worked as soon as I plugged them in. I ordered lights from other companies over the years (I've purchased 3 more Teslas since this video was made) and some of the lights that have come have been duds. Maybe they are faulty lights? If not, I'm not sure what else it could be. Let me know if you find a solution, cause now I'm curious! I'll look around and let you know if I find any more info on this.
I thought about that but AutoZone’s cheapest one was like $80. For a few minutes I’d rather save $80. If you already have one or don’t mind spending the money though, a scope would be easier. Cheers!
@@UtahValleyEV It was a good refresh, to get the tub removed, in case, if needed. You could probably add a skip to link, in the description, for those impatient❤👍
Thanks for the suggestion! I want to make sure I'm helping people as best I can without wasting time. Will add that in to make it easier/quicker for those who want.
If you reach out to Tesla in the app under the "service" and let them know you want to buy a part. Just say you want the "check strap for the front left door" or whatever door it is. Then they will let you know how much it is ($50 when I got mine) and when you can pick it up. You could also order from eBay, just make sure you check the Tesla EPC (electronic parts catalog) for the right part number. Let me know if you have any questions!
I saw the alert in service mode stating it was low so I verified, saw it was low and figured it wouldn't hurt to top off. Car is at 129k miles, so I am out of warranty. If I was in warranty, I for sure would have had Tesla do it, even though it's simple.
@RyanCiesielski it was on the lower side, but not low enough to trigger a customer facing alert. No leak, just after that many miles it is normal for it to be lower.
Hope it helps! I added a bit to our Model Y as well and it was very similar to this process. Slightly different due to the placement of things, but you should have no issues. Cheers!
Follow up. The one hubcap making noise, tesla already cut the tabs. Very simple and less permanent changing by cutting, painters tape in the clips [hub cap to spokes] to snug up the fit. No noise now.
Brilliant! I didn't even think of that. I have a different Model 3 now and haven't done anything about the creak yet. I'll have to give this a try and see how it compares.
before we cut, why is only one of my wheels doing this if all the wheels have the tabs? it was after i popped off the cover to get rocks out of the dust cover. just strange that all wheels have that design but 1/4 now creek and only after removal and reinstallation.
@mingclv so nothing new found on my part other than I now use painters tape to snug up the fit between the rims and covers on all 4 wheels. Imho it just seems to be a fit tolerance that loosens over time
@borshardsd I think this is probably correct. The issue resolved for me after cutting them (obviously, hence the video) but then it came back with a vengeance. My car sounded like absolute junk at any little bump and removing the covers completely fixed it. This car I have now (different Model 3 from the video) is creeping up on 148k miles and I’m thinking it’s just due to wear and tear. Going to get some new, v2 aero covers and see how that goes.
Now what would cause another vehicle with the exact same wheel covers to NOT creak even with those areas you removed still in tack? Also, I've heard the same creaking on aftermarket wheel covers for Tesla.
I'm not sure what else could be causing it. I know that the tabs exist from the molding process and made the sound. Cutting them off resolved it for a lot of people, which is why I tried it. (Apologies for the delay in responding)
The only reason they can be creaking as the car rolls is that the wheels are flexing under the weight of the car. There seems to be a significant problem with Tesla wheels cracking as well.
Honestly, I'm the worst person to make a statement on this. I just hop in the car, click whatever Spotify is showing and cruise around. I pay almost zero attention to it. I do know some people have said this makes it way better for browsing. Playback has never been an issue for me at all though.
Yup! Someone else mentioned this as well. I usually carry on my person so I hadn’t thought about a glove box situation but I am glad to have it as a new option. 👍🏼
One thing I can see that would make having a pin for the glove box desirable. If you carry a pistol like I do it’s not a bad idea to have it locked up. And with the pen you can get to it relatively quick.
