Welcome to CuForming Where Copper and Nature Fuse together! Immerse yourself in the enchanting world of electroforming which is a celebration of creativity, craftsmanship and the fascinating science of electrochemistry. Join this world and explore the symbiotic relationship between art and nature to embark on the journey that inspire all our designs.
You can find all the info you need in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uBw9jD5rmYw.html If you need more clarifications, come find me on my social media.
Hey man been watching your stuff and pop in from time to time. I finally saved up and have enough to start getting into electroplating/electroforming as a hobby; getting all the chemicals this weekend. I'm wondering though, how to store the copper sulfate solution? You mentioned plastic #5 for the setup, though I can't find a large enough jug that is plastic #5. Could I instead use plastic #7 as storage? Thanks in advanced; keep up the cool stuff.
Thanks for your support! To store electroforming solution and almost anything else, you should use Polypropylene which is #5 and Polyethylene which is #2. The number #7 is other plastic, which includes a lot of different kinds... so No! #2 and #5 are the best, you just keep your solution sealed to avoid water evaporation and dust to go in.
If you want a consistent and shiny green, you can use the electropatina solution to make it, the process is a little tricky, but after you gain enough experience with it, you will manage to make green and lot more colors. Check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M6U_wIUnH-E.html to see what I'm talking about and if you want the recipe for the solution I have it in my shop: www.cuforming.com/tutorials.php
this video is at the same time technical as it is easy to follow and to understand. THANK YOU!!! I have more than one power supply at home. One has the following specs: 3-15 Volt DC adjustable / 25 Amps (continous) It has only one adjuster knob just for the Volts. I assume this power supply is not suitable for electroforming in baths? It should be however suited for pen electroforming...? One last question: The manufacturer or my acidic copper electrolyte stated, that the ideal voltage for the solution is between 1 and 1.5 Volts. The current should be set between 1 and 2 Amps per square decimeter. I assume that 1 Amp is then analog to your miminum value you've mentioned and 2 Amp would be the max? Again - thank you so much!!!
a) You could use the 3/15V power supply with enough pieces in the bath to reach the minimum amperes required. I don't think, at 3 volts, you will have 0.1 amperes for 1 inch of cathode. It's gonna be way higher. b) Even if your electrolyte solution should be used with a specific voltage, you always need to make a calculation based on the surface of the pieces you are going to plate, If you use constant current. You can follow the manufacture suggestion only If you operate with Constant voltage. Does your power supply allow you to select CC or CV mode? Thank you for your support and appreciation!
thanks you for your help! the power supply I've mentioned does only have a regulator for the voltage, however it does indicate both, voltage and amps. There are no indicator lamps for CC or CV mode. My much weaker power supply (3A max) however has them. I've visited Gateros plating today and bought the eBook for beginners - great great stuff, thank you for mentioning them!!
@@orakeljoe9611 The more ampere a power supply gives, the better. You can use a PS with 100A, but if it can't be keep constant, is not good for precision. Buy one of these: amzn.to/3WjbeBK
Thank you!!!! Watch this video to see how I do it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M6U_wIUnH-E.html and check my website for the recipe www.cuforming.com/tutorials.php
The letter "I" stand for Intensity, which is another way to name the Current in electric engineering, so they use the "I" to define the current, because the letter "C" is used differently. The letter "A" stands for Amperes, which is the unit of measure for the Current or the Intensity. So I = is a number x of A
Hello, i already wrote you on others video about terra cota which is clay fired once but without glaze. I can cover it with latex rubber may be. First, think you for your answer. I have an other question about the solution, how long could we use it, what to do with it if we have to throw it ? I've seen that we must take a look to the level and re add distilled water on it, that's all ? well, i already say it, you really make a great job with your teaching videos ! (sorry for my english, i'm french !)
Thank you!!! The solution could work for very long time, you don't throw it away. You just need to adjust it based on the issues you have. If water evaporate, you add it, for different issues you add acid or brightener, or you might need to filter it with different kind of filters. If you need any specific advice about it, just contact me on Facebook or Instagram. I'm always available. Thanks and don't worry about your English, it's perfect!
You mean, instead of the glass bottle? Or you mean using clay to sculpt the object? Either way, you need to deal with the porosity of the terracotta, since you need to paint it with conductive paint and also to dip it in the electroforming solution. It will absorb the liquid, and you will encounter a few issues... the copper coat could not stick to the material, it's an example. You could seal it with some varnishing or sealer, but I'm not sure about keeping the beauty of the terracotta intact. You need to experiment with that.
Unless it's like ceramic, and it as the glass coat on it. I don't know what you exactly mean with "terra cota"... for me terracotta and argilla (clay) are the same thing in italian language.
Vraiment excellente cette vidéo, didactique, précise, et qui donne envie de s'y mettre ! Mais ce n'est pas tout, superbement filmée, pleine de créativité, petits ballets de perles jouant dans le rythme. Bref, on découvre, on apprend et on se fait plaisir ! Merci !
I use a drip-tank instead of an electric pump. I also installed a see-through splash-guard above the cutting disc. This is perfect for cutting $$$$ rough to minimize loss.
You live in a hot place and the water evaporates quickly, especially in the summer season. You need to add water every time to top the solution to its original level, or more.
@@anne-gretealbechnielsen5991 check Gateros Plating UK, they can ship to Denmark, but you need to contact them. They have a little issue with their new website.
Eu uso solvente com grafite. A purpurina ouro é condutora? Vendo a minha receita de tinta aqui: website.beacons.ai/cuforming/tutorials-shop - Envie-me uma mensagem privada no Instagram ou Facebook para que eu possa ajudá-la a comprar os produtos necessários instagram.com/cuforming/ - facebook.com/profile.php?id=61558919078595
With this method, you can have vibrant colors without protection for 6 months... after that they will start to fade. I have a few pieces around, that still have their colors after a year. Check the related video out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M6U_wIUnH-E.html
@@cuforming Very informative, thanks! Keep up the good work. I wonder if you could electroform a large 3D print or casting, and what an electropatina finish would look like on it. I haven't found any (relatively) large-scale electroforming on RU-vid. It might be a challenging project, but maybe you and others will find it as interesting as I do.
I make at least a video a month. If you have any request about experiments related to jewelry making, chemistry and electroforming I'm opened to any idea.
@@cuforming To be honest, I have absoluely no experiences with everything connected to electroforming, I am just collecting stuff to be able to start it, one day. But the experiments you made are great. You could try citrus on the jewellery, Coca Cola and incence fumes, for example. Or hair dye, fish sauce or coffee.. the possibilities are endless. Thanks for your efforts and for sharing your experiences!
