@ding501 How did it work with all the binding posts connected directly to the case? Must of missed the part when the binding post holes were drilled out to accommodate the insulators.
Yeah I did not show that part. It's very simple, there are 4 pins on a USB type A connector, and the two outermost pins are the +5V and ground. I simply soldered red 5V wire and black ground wire to the correct pins. Most USB connectors have the 5V and ground on the outermost pins. Hope that helps!
One would work just fine from an electric perspective, but space could be a problem. I like being able to connect multiple devices or tools at the same time on the power supply, and jamming all the negative connections on the same post could be difficult. Plus, it looks pretty!
i need to ask you a question, my psu is Antec VP-450 PSU , the 12v wires is yellow ok, but i also have other 4 yellow wires with black stripes, arent they the same. Thanks
Hopefully you found the answer to your question already, but the wiring details should be on the label of your PSU, like I show at 7:58. If not, the manufacturer website should have it readily available. The colors red, yellow, orange and black are pretty universal for 5V, 12V, 3.3V and ground, but other colors are used by manufacturers for various things. Good luck!
Can I solder a normal 100 kOhm resistor to a 100 kOhm multiturn potentiometer in order to get to 200 kOhm? Can't find a 200 kOhm multiturn potentiometer! My step up booster uses the 204w trimmpot
Excellent vid and narration. I plan to drill holes to access the trim pots to accommodate different probes. If anyone does this BE SURE to use a drill bit made for drilling plastic, otherwise you stand the possibility of breaking the case.
26:19 mind did get static charge when a transformer gave strong kick back. It started displaying random stuff. Restarting didn't work. Had to turnoff and put it in anti-static bag after a while it started working normally.
Thanks I had this on while I built mine last night. Nice Jazz and commentary made for a good atmosphere so thanks for that. Was kinda like making one along with a friend haha - lockdown is getting to me :D Anyhow, going to try and remember all the things I figured out and put them down as tips if YT character limit allows. 1. Don't take the paper off till you absolutely need to. This means sometimes pulling up corners to free the area round screw holes so you can put those in without needing to remov the the paper till the end. 2. When doing 1, make sure to not get caught out leaving a bit of paper on an inside you loose access to. 3. Also when doing 1, remember to free up the paper from the tabs so bits can fit together without paper being in the way before the final removal 4. get a small corner up on all paper covers (front and back) while you have free access to them. It will make the final peel much faster/easier. Take the peeling steady, and angle into tabs so you don't tear (needing them to be scraped off with a fingernail) 5. Check what parts you have before you start and that nothing is broken. I had 1 spare slider but two were broken so I'm going to have to make a new one (although actually the sliders are [surprisingly] so firm I may not need to - not checked yet, left it on the AC/DC/GD slider as less likely to need that so often. 6. Check hole alignment for the USB on the front panel (the part can go 2 ways round and one doesn't align) 7. Test as you go to make sure you didn't damage anything 8. Mine had the signal loop holes filled in so I had to melt and drill out the solder before being able to add a loop. I made mine from a jump wire kit that I took the insulation off. Be sure to use enough to be able to position the loop behind the hole and bend it over so it pokes out (or almost out) dead center of the hole (so you have room to get the clips or probe in to use it). Marry stuff up to get a good judgement on it. 9. Once you have the clip in place use blue tak to hold while you solder so it stays in the correct position. Some small adjustments will likely be needed anyhow later. Use blutak to remove blutak - trust me, it works. 10. Check the mounting holes on the main board. One of mine had a big blob of solder I had to melt/suck off to avoid an uneven sit on the nuts. 11. Don't talk about sucking things off or sitting on nuts in youtube comments 12. 2 nuts are needed on each shaft/long screw, not to give board clearance for the solder joints, but to get the BNC high enough to go through the rear hole. 13. Don't talk about shafts, long screws, sliders or rear holes on youtube comments 14. Don't forget there is paper on the 5 buttons and 3 sliders that will need removing. I'd advise doing this first (I almost forgot till the very end - which was anti-climatic). Note, you didn't need those fingernails so say your good byes before starting. 15. I'd advise only putting the nuts on the long screws very loosely at first, so they have plenty of room to rock about. The reason for this is that, if you make them really rigid from the get go (...), it will be quite hard to get the screen back on (and subsequent layers) as it has to marry up with the pin holes AND the screws. 16. There is a lot of talk in this video about a spare nut. I didn't need it as the way this thing works is that there is a backing plate that fits behind the screen PCB, and this supports everything that goes on, there after (2 more plates that, when on, will sit flush with the top of the case sides). It does this by virtue of the fact that the screen PCB is supported by the two corner supports on the main board and the data connector, which are all pretty solid. 17. Be careful with the edges of the perspex on the screen PCB backing plate. I snapped a bit of the acrylic while applying pressure without realising I was pushing on a weak part (wasn't noticable though) 18. My board had some "creative" ceramic capacitor soldering, putting many of them on par height wise with the Electrolytic capacitors and other tall components that the backing plate has holes for. Check this to make sure you are not squishing anything when you put the screen PCB back and if needed bend the caps over taking care to avoid over stressing any point on the wire (don't snap them) 19. The back plate has to go on before you start adding anything more than the main board (as otherwise you'll find yourself wiggling several boards up on the screws to get enough clearance to add it later). 20. Tightening the nuts on the screws after you have the screen PCB (with it's backing plate and maybe the other 2 plates too) on is kinda tricky. I had to use pliers to hold the screws in place while I screwed from the underside. 21. Don't talk about screwing from the underside in youtube comments. 22. At the end, everything should be nicely flush with the top of the sides and there should be enough protrusion on the long screws to get the lid and screw caps on. 23. Don't forget to put the buttons and sliders in before putting the lid on! XD OK, that was a lot of words and maybe I should have just made my own video! Anyhow, hopefully someone got through them all and found them of help. I'm really pleased with the final result as it feels really solid (I expected flimsyness and rattles) and even the sliders are pretty stiff (...) Incidentally, it looks better IRL than it does in photos too. All the best Wist
Excellent product video OM. Thank You! I just returned my new and refurbished replacement Corsair K63 wired/wireless keyboard. The firmware update kept malfunctioning, deactivating the 2.4 wireless and wired function. Corsair couldn't explain why. Their only solution is to keep providing a refurbished replacement keyboard that suffers the same firmware upgrade issue. This firmware bug is inexcusable for a costly keyboard marketed and branded as one of the best of the best comparable to Das, GL Logitech, and others. So I did more research. I'm old-school and new-age. From the 70s to 80s, while cold-war serving overseas in the military, I used manual typewriters and the IBM selectives. MKs are just a high-tech version of these classics. I discovered the IBM-retro-looking Verocifire TKL02WS and VM02WS wireless/wired keyboards with Outemu Brown MK tactile non-clicky switches. The low price tags are awesome. I opted for the VM02WS 104-full keyboard on Amazon. Note, your o-ring issue (shorter keypress distance) may be the thickness (0.2mm to 04.mm). The higher number reduces activation and bottom-out distance, how far down one presses their switch. Checkout this primer I read to inform what type MK keyboard/switches I wanted: www.dygma.com/mechanical-switches/the-ultimate-guide-to-mechanical-keyboard-switches-for-2019/ My keyboard issue is, I have no clue what the windows logo "lock-symbol" does (lower left on keyboard) or the VM02WS 4th lock light symbol (upper right on keyboard). I googled both, using whatever search terms I could brainstorm. But I only get tutorials and videos on the windows logo and Fn key hot key functions, nothing about the "lock symbol" or 4th light. I'll email Verocifire. It's their keyboard. But when I saw your excellent video, I thought you might know these two "lock symbol" functions. If not, it's cool. And again thanks for your cool video!
It's already been 3 months since you asked, so you may have already figured it out, but the Windows "lock" symbol simply deactivates that key. It happens on the keyboard, not in the operating system. Some people don't like the Windows key, because hitting it by accident while typing can result in all kinds of programs or functions being activated unintentionally. Personally I use this keyboard with a Mac, and the Windows key is mapped to the Command key, which is necessary for a lot of shortcuts, so I do not use the Windows lock. Hope that helps!
Does the inside smell like paint afterward? If so, how long did the smell linger? I'm not too sure that I should paint my mask because the mix of the smell of sweat and paint doesn't seem too appealing
That has not been an issue at all. Once the paint is dry, there is no lingering smell. Painting in thin layers is key, and the final coat of clear dries very quickly. The only smell is the delicious aroma of sweat. Yum.
Nice video! Good choice of background music. Not too loud, just right! And I totally agree that the whole project looks great! A small correction, though... The dummy load was not necessarily required to keep the PSU on, but rather to stabilize the output voltages. Your lack of a load on the higher amperage rail is why your voltage readings were a little off. You ignored it, but 5.23 volts is not OK for certain sensitive projects. One way to avoid this problem for the USB sockets would have been to reuse the circuit boards in the cigarette-lighter adapters you got the sockets from. Those, connected to the 12 volt rail, would provide a much more stable 5 volt supply for phones, tablets, Raspberry pi's, etc. That circuit, if well designed, would also read the data pins to provide the appropriate power to certain smart devices. Also a bit odd to me is that despite the limited space, you still installed all three black binding posts, where one or two would have sufficed. It would have greatly increase the available space, making the job much easier, but it would change absolutely nothing since all the black wires are the same connection. So, unless it was necessary to connect multiple devices to every single voltage rail pair at the same time, installing all three black posts is bit excessive. ;-) Dude, are you from Québec? Your accent is very similar. ;-)
Not sure if you’ll see this over 1 year later, BUT, I thought it was IMPORTANT to thank you for this detailed comment!! Also, to let you know that despite the content creator NOT seeing it, others (like me) have and found it to be of EXCEPTIONAL HELP…. I’m 41 and struggling desperately to learn all of this. I have around 15 salvaged PSU’s in a bin just begging to be repurposed but UNTIL NOW, I’ve been too intimidated to touch them. The reason for this is (in my opinion) the SAME REASON you felt compelled to leave this comment…. There are MANY videos on this specific subject, but ALL with varying advice…. Being as painfully articulate as I am, I’m always noticing these subtle differences and am ALWAYS left without any way to know which set of instructions were the best to follow… That’s why a comment JUST LIKE YOURS should be commended. I’d have NEVER knew to be aware of these discrepancies, and thanks to you I do. IF YOU HAPPEN TO SEE THIS, I’d respectfully wish to request your “LIGHT” assistance in completing my very first DIY PSU to bench PS project (so that I can BE CERTAIN it’s done right, and then use it as my foundation to build & elaborate on going forward!) - Reaching me via email is simple AT - protonmail - D0tt - c0MM - if you just add my RU-vid handle to the front!! (I’m sharing my address cryptically to avoid the spam filters 😆) What I’m basically wishing for is your NON-TIME-CONSUMING advice with the MANY MINOR uncertainties I’m still plagued with since you’re clearly the safe, articulate & experienced DIY builder I’m trying to be… Examples of these “minor uncertainties” would be things like “How could I add USB-C or QC3 USB-A ports to this?” -or- “Why must ALL the 12v Yellow wires be connected to the post when ONE gives me an 11.8v reading?” -or- “How can I incorporate other amazing features seen in other videos such as ADJUSTABLE OUTPUT(s), multimeter displays, additional switches/LEDs/etc??” I hope you get my point… Nothing major! Just all the things everyone else seems to fully understand that I cannot get a STRAIGHT ANSWER TO no matter how many months I’ve been searching…. 🤦♂️ I do hope to hear from you, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!
@@flojotube Thank you for your kind words! ;-] But I'm not as much of an expert as I may sound like, here. I've just watched A LOT of these conversion vids! It fascinates me how many different ways we can do the same things. For an extensive list of designs and tutorials, check out the Instructables website (yes, that's how they spell it). But, yeah sure, I'd be willing to answer a few questions now and then... Here's your first answer: The reason many yellow wires are used despite the fact that just one wire will also give the appropriate voltage is that multiple wires can carry much more current. Unlike an average power brick, or plug-in charger, these PSUs are built to deliver HUGE amounts of current. Much more than most people need. So, multiple wires act as one bigger wire, and share the load. ;-] Using more than one wire in these PSUs is easier and cheaper than replacing them with a larger caliber of wire. Consult the American Wire Gauge (AWG) chart to see how wire size relates to how much current a wire can handle at any given voltage. There is a similar chart for metric sizes too, obviously. An example of wire gauge and current handling is the fact that most of the wiring in your house is with AWG 14, which can handle up to 15 amps at 120 volts. But if wired properly, your kitchen counter sockets are wired with AWG 20 wires because they can handle up to 12 amps, and that is necessary if you are using high power appliances like an electric kettle, a toaster, and a microwave oven at the same time! ;-] WARNING: My answers tend to be longwinded! lol I will send this same text to your email...
@@robertcartier5088 - WARNING - no “articulate” person can possibly be anything OTHER THAN “long winded” - So you ARENT scaring me away with that!! Haha 😂 I got your email and appreciate this so much! I’ll reply later on!
Nice video thanks. I don't know if my DSO138 will come with a case since the description on Amazon doesn't list one but many of the reviews talk about how difficult it was to assemble the case. I'll find out later today when it arrives. If it doesn't come with a case I'll just 3D print one, there are lots of case designs on Thingiverse but I'll probably end up designing my own.
what do you do when there is a part of the case missing? The part is the one that has the 4 holes for the small screws and attaches to the screen board.
You can probably contact the seller and ask them to send the missing part. At that price point they may end up sending you the entire kit. Or, you could make the missing part out of balsa wood or carton. That's probably what I would do, to keep with the DIY theme.
You needed to put the long screws in from the top and used the nuts to lock PCB to the board cutout the LCD display locates the other 2 acrylic boards and then fit the bottom with the castled nuts to act as feet.
This is quite cool, I've got a spare PSU sitting about too which I might do this with. My only concern with this with respect that it was cheap and simple is what about any overload protection/fuses incase you short out that 12V rail or something like that? Might be worth considering a slight mod to put a fuse for each of the supply rails in series with the connectors?
There are long "arms" on the slider switch outside devices... Might that 2nd screen surround panel be used to keep them in position (can't fall out then)? With over 2 years passing since you posted this I can understand if you don't read and reply to this post.
Yes indeed, those inner panels help support and guide the extensions of the slider switches. They seem to serve a few purposes, mostly adding structure to the case.
@@OaklandMisfit Does it also keep the momentary buttons within the case somehow? I couldn't see anything on them in the video to enable as much, but perhaps there's a shape change that's not visible in the film.
The momentaries are "T" shaped, as well as the sliders. When the top cover goes on, all the extensions are captured. The cutouts in the top cover only allow for the tactile part to exit. The "T" keeps them in. Hope this helps. Great job, Oakland! Thank You! I finally assembled my DSO138 and it works! :-) Ready now, with your guidance, to put together the "infamous" acrylic case. I personally don't think I am going to have any problems and I LOVE how it looks. So cool. Cheers.
you should be using plastic tools for adjusting your meter, not metal screwdriver... just saying. Otherwise thanks for the heads-up for when my meter arrivers!
The slot in the adjustable capacitor is insulated. Not a bad idea, though, to use plastic tools to make such adjustments. Good habit. I like the idea of spacers on the screws. I think I will try that. Thanks, Tim!
