Acrylic Case for DSO138 Oscilloscope 

Thanks I had this on while I built mine last night. Nice Jazz and commentary made for a good atmosphere so thanks for that. Was kinda like making one along with a friend haha - lockdown is getting to me :D Anyhow, going to try and remember all the things I figured out and put them down as tips if YT character limit allows. 1. Don't take the paper off till you absolutely need to. This means sometimes pulling up corners to free the area round screw holes so you can put those in without needing to remov the the paper till the end. 2. When doing 1, make sure to not get caught out leaving a bit of paper on an inside you loose access to. 3. Also when doing 1, remember to free up the paper from the tabs so bits can fit together without paper being in the way before the final removal 4. get a small corner up on all paper covers (front and back) while you have free access to them. It will make the final peel much faster/easier. Take the peeling steady, and angle into tabs so you don't tear (needing them to be scraped off with a fingernail) 5. Check what parts you have before you start and that nothing is broken. I had 1 spare slider but two were broken so I'm going to have to make a new one (although actually the sliders are [surprisingly] so firm I may not need to - not checked yet, left it on the AC/DC/GD slider as less likely to need that so often. 6. Check hole alignment for the USB on the front panel (the part can go 2 ways round and one doesn't align) 7. Test as you go to make sure you didn't damage anything 8. Mine had the signal loop holes filled in so I had to melt and drill out the solder before being able to add a loop. I made mine from a jump wire kit that I took the insulation off. Be sure to use enough to be able to position the loop behind the hole and bend it over so it pokes out (or almost out) dead center of the hole (so you have room to get the clips or probe in to use it). Marry stuff up to get a good judgement on it. 9. Once you have the clip in place use blue tak to hold while you solder so it stays in the correct position. Some small adjustments will likely be needed anyhow later. Use blutak to remove blutak - trust me, it works. 10. Check the mounting holes on the main board. One of mine had a big blob of solder I had to melt/suck off to avoid an uneven sit on the nuts. 11. Don't talk about sucking things off or sitting on nuts in youtube comments 12. 2 nuts are needed on each shaft/long screw, not to give board clearance for the solder joints, but to get the BNC high enough to go through the rear hole. 13. Don't talk about shafts, long screws, sliders or rear holes on youtube comments 14. Don't forget there is paper on the 5 buttons and 3 sliders that will need removing. I'd advise doing this first (I almost forgot till the very end - which was anti-climatic). Note, you didn't need those fingernails so say your good byes before starting. 15. I'd advise only putting the nuts on the long screws very loosely at first, so they have plenty of room to rock about. The reason for this is that, if you make them really rigid from the get go (...), it will be quite hard to get the screen back on (and subsequent layers) as it has to marry up with the pin holes AND the screws. 16. There is a lot of talk in this video about a spare nut. I didn't need it as the way this thing works is that there is a backing plate that fits behind the screen PCB, and this supports everything that goes on, there after (2 more plates that, when on, will sit flush with the top of the case sides). It does this by virtue of the fact that the screen PCB is supported by the two corner supports on the main board and the data connector, which are all pretty solid. 17. Be careful with the edges of the perspex on the screen PCB backing plate. I snapped a bit of the acrylic while applying pressure without realising I was pushing on a weak part (wasn't noticable though) 18. My board had some "creative" ceramic capacitor soldering, putting many of them on par height wise with the Electrolytic capacitors and other tall components that the backing plate has holes for. Check this to make sure you are not squishing anything when you put the screen PCB back and if needed bend the caps over taking care to avoid over stressing any point on the wire (don't snap them) 19. The back plate has to go on before you start adding anything more than the main board (as otherwise you'll find yourself wiggling several boards up on the screws to get enough clearance to add it later). 20. Tightening the nuts on the screws after you have the screen PCB (with it's backing plate and maybe the other 2 plates too) on is kinda tricky. I had to use pliers to hold the screws in place while I screwed from the underside. 21. Don't talk about screwing from the underside in youtube comments. 22. At the end, everything should be nicely flush with the top of the sides and there should be enough protrusion on the long screws to get the lid and screw caps on. 23. Don't forget to put the buttons and sliders in before putting the lid on! XD OK, that was a lot of words and maybe I should have just made my own video! Anyhow, hopefully someone got through them all and found them of help. I'm really pleased with the final result as it feels really solid (I expected flimsyness and rattles) and even the sliders are pretty stiff (...) Incidentally, it looks better IRL than it does in photos too. All the best Wist

I wondered about that. I watched other videos where they explain the functionality and the trace was blinking. I was sure it was video because you see that in a TV screen that is being videoed. It is steady to the human eye in "real life". Thanks again for an exemplary job.

I really enjoyed your video and like the way you explain things. Well done video.

Thank you for your very well done and entertaining video, you probably saved me hours of frustration.

Thanks for making this video it helped me put my case together.

Excellent vid and narration. I plan to drill holes to access the trim pots to accommodate different probes. If anyone does this BE SURE to use a drill bit made for drilling plastic, otherwise you stand the possibility of breaking the case.

Thanks for making this video

Very helpful, thank you!

GREAT JOB

thanks! that took me 15mins instead of an hour pissing about!

Thanks for the well done instruction with out the load music as with others. And a note about the acorn nuts being on the bottom since i am new to electronics but I am a woodworker I just clued some homemade wooden feet on the bottom with anti slip material works fine for me.

Thanks. This really helped me with my case assembly.

some good tips thank you

Nice video. I would suggest taking the extra switch cap and putting it inside the case on under the circuit board so it does not get lost. it could simply be wedged in between somewhere where it's barely noticeable or a dab of tape to the acrylic to still have a clean look. I'll likely do the same when my case gets here later in the week.

This is a valuable video. I have the case and there are no instructions at all. I figured it out myself, but It would be helpful to see how it goes together. The hardest thing with the case is removing the protective covering on the plexiglass. :-) I wound up just leaving the bottom plate bolted on. It's clunky when it's all assembled and makes it more difficult to use. There are variations in the design of the same case. Mine did not have as many parts and did not have the long studs. The sliding switch extenders are hard and stiff to use.

You NAILED it! I was wondering what I was going to have to go through to put mine together. You just took all the hard work out of it! OCD my ass! That is the way to do it! Now all I have to do is make a pristine clean work area to do this. Thank You so much OaklandMisfit. Misfit, my ass!! :-)

Dear Sir, Can we find Laser Cutting File / template as Case is not available in local market? Thanks.

26:19 mind did get static charge when a transformer gave strong kick back. It started displaying random stuff. Restarting didn't work. Had to turnoff and put it in anti-static bag after a while it started working normally.

Video starts at 8:50 if you want to know about the case. If you wonder to the comments wondering , FTW !!

Nice video thanks. I don't know if my DSO138 will come with a case since the description on Amazon doesn't list one but many of the reviews talk about how difficult it was to assemble the case. I'll find out later today when it arrives. If it doesn't come with a case I'll just 3D print one, there are lots of case designs on Thingiverse but I'll probably end up designing my own.

Thanks for the video , would it be more convenient to drill a hole above the adjustable capacitors for future calibration ?

this is very useful look about you might get it cheaper for a few quid already assembled not unless you like modular things and i guess you do :)

what do you do when there is a part of the case missing? The part is the one that has the 4 holes for the small screws and attaches to the screen board.

Nice and quite helpful, thank you. Does the DSO 138 has a cursors? I would really appreciate the answer.

There are long "arms" on the slider switch outside devices... Might that 2nd screen surround panel be used to keep them in position (can't fall out then)? With over 2 years passing since you posted this I can understand if you don't read and reply to this post.

with mine some of the tabs were misaligned or the holes too small I don't know but I broke it a few places to get it to fit. I think the tolerances were a bit too tight. And it should come with instructions.

Tried to find the video on the converted power supply you show in the video. Would love to see the video on it! Thanks!

yeah, nuts... in germany we say "Nuss" :D ich liebe Kraut, Sauerkraut mit Thüringer Rostwurst ;)

Maybe some plastic spacers would have made the unit more stable???

Hey does the oscilloscope comes with a power supply?

The nuts are called "Acorn" nuts. My case came with plastic standoffs, one shorter for the board to rest on and the second for a spacer for the screen and button board. the other two boards were not in my kit.

The DSO138 scope tested ➡ Read this article chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/dso138-very-cheap-scope-tested.html

Nice music.

We have 3 long and 3 short buttons

i have a sameoscolliscope,iuseforhobby. itsgreaat

Dude..test points on Mine are doubled..pre assembled

Why not buy 2 extra nuts?Rob

The extra nut middle of the screw is useless, first u need to attach the LCD, then it would be okay...

Just so you know, I heard that RU-vid is going to discontinue annotations to videos (Starting Jan. 2019). I don't know why but something to look into. Seems like a silly decision by RU-vid. Maybe they will come to their senses and allow annotations to continue. I rely on those as a viewer and it is a useful tool for the channel creators. Just like anything else in life. If it works, "they" do away with it. I got this from one of Fran's videos and she knows RU-vid. Hope this heads up helps.

You needed to put the long screws in from the top and used the nuts to lock PCB to the board cutout the LCD display locates the other 2 acrylic boards and then fit the bottom with the castled nuts to act as feet.

you should be using plastic tools for adjusting your meter, not metal screwdriver... just saying. Otherwise thanks for the heads-up for when my meter arrivers!

your long screws with the round nuts, the round nuts should be on the bottom.

I have many specks of dust in mine. Lol

Also your third point is completely wrong. The first layer is supported by the pin headers that connect the LCD display to the main board. It will NOT rest on the BNC connector.

I stopped watchiong at 12min, The case literally had taken a side path. And the video is about a connection that was not made during the first construction. I thought the video might have started at 8:50 but just look for another one if you reach the comments in 8 minutes wondering.

There are different versions o this case. The one on aliexpress is a real piece of shit. Nice tut.

These half assed scopes are a waste of time! Half of the are counterfeit and arrive damaged.

I just put this case together and it is total TRASH. Save your money.

I'm sorry but you built it upside down!