I am automotive tech with 25 years of experience helping family and friends keep their vehicles on the road. The vehicle repairs I upload all have unique problems and solutions that most DIY consumers can do from home. My goal is to show you how to do most repairs with basic tools from tips a tricks I have learned over the years. Subscribe today and learn how to do automotive repairs yourself and save yourself thousands of dollars in the process!
So I’m in the process of trying to get the bolts out of the power steering pump where in the hell r they located I came across three above the oil filter.
Should hold full fuel pressure minus 5-10 lbs max for 10 minutes so no less then 44 lbs key off @10 minutes. Sadly most aftermarket fuel pumps bleed back after 30 minutes. /K&K
can you change the front thermostat not not the rear thermostat. i notice my qx4 température gauges goes slightly up to H when im waiting for a long time
You can change the front thermostat only sure, but if the rear thermostat (water control valve) is stuck shut you will still have an over heating situation. If it has over 150k miles you might want to do both to make sure it runs at the temp it was designed to. /K&K
@@KNKRNR as a first timer , is it a hard thing to do myself ? i bet scared but then again i am confident i can do it by being extra cautious. a mechanic charging close to 900 to replace just that one
So I do have a question what part of the motor do you use the jack on to lift the motor up just a bit. As I’m in the process of replacing the timing chain. But mine hasn’t broke I do believe it’s just the chain tension hopefully 😊. Let me know thx.
We will a floor jack and a block of wood to disperse the weight right under the oil pan . Be careful with the jack as you don't need much lift to remove the mount and support the engine. Doesn't take much to dent the oil pan. /K&K
Mine did 55 psi with key on, 45 psi running. Very hard start, but did fine when warm. It did hold pressure. The low pressure would give a lean code bank 1 and 2. Replacing the pump this weekend. Great video. FFI, take off the brackets that hold the fuel lines in the frame rail. The very front has flex lines. This way you can lower the tank and get to the top of it way easier. Also, the tank can sit on the ground hooked up and test the pump.
@@KNKRNR I replaced the fuel pump today. Solid 55 PSI and fixed the issue. My friend owns a shop and said it should be between 55-60 PSI while running.
It's a safety factory, liquid fuel is safer to work with then a tank full of vapor. It's not to bad to remove a tank with fuel in it but going back up is a different story. Other issue then you gotta store siphoned fuel in 5 gallon tanks. These new EPA fuel cans are just awful to work with. /K&K
My timing cover gasket on my 09 Lacrosse 3800 Series III with 65k miles went, but it wasnt oil, it was coolant. And THANKFULLY it leaked coolant EXTERNALLY, and NOT into the crankcase. A bunch of work for a stupid $5 gasket... 🤬 WHY G.M. used a "paper" gasket there, and NOT metal like the replacement one was, is BEYOND me... 🤷🏻 Probably so that it DOES fail, and then the Stealership can charge you about $1500 to replace that $5 gasket. I just did the job myself in a few hours. Wasn't all that difficult.
My Aveo's temp gauge goes up beyond the half way mark after I turn the car off. It immediately goes down when I turn on the heater. Have you seen this before? Thanks for the very informative video
Its normal for an engine to heat up after you shut it off. The temp sensor is close to the heater hoses so its possible the temp sensor is see the temp different in the coolant temperature when you run the heater. If its not running hot when on I wouldn't be to concerned about it. Most of the vehicle I have owned over the years do the same thing. /K&K
Be aware that the '96 may have come with wiring that is different than the poster has shown. It looks like some of the cars in the early part of the build still have the '95 2 connectors under the seat arrangement where the 2 power wires for the pump are in their own 2-wire connector.
Why would you skip the part about putting the bracket in place the put the pulley back on? I mean we know you know how yo do it and what it looks like but some of us are going through this for the first time and don't or haven't seen how that instalation bolt fits or screws in place when putting the wheel back on.... Just saying 😅😂
How many miles? Do you have heat coning out of the vents? Does it have a fan clutch or electric fan only model? If its running hot sounds there may be air in the system and coolant isn't moving. Did you use a new radiator cap? If it wasn't running hot before and is now there's a problem. /K&K
Yes it helps shed a twisting force because the pump is making high pressure. With out that bracket you will most likely blow the seals in the pump. Its a pain in the rear but there's a reason why GM used it. /K&K
You need to trace it back to its source. What year are you working? There is some minor changes over the years on power grounds for the 4WD system. /K&K
@@TheSlimerider looking at the diagram I have, the transfer case switch sends the power to both the TLA, front axel switch. If it worked prior to the transmission removal and installation than you need to make sure the transfer case switch is getting power from the 4WD fuse in the panel. You need to figure out if its a power side problem or ground issue. Put it in 4WD turn the key switch on and test for power (light blue wire) with an alternate ground. If you have battery voltage its a ground issue, if no power is present then its a power side problem. For the power side check the transfer case switch on the transfer case. The ground side of the circuit looks like its on the engine block using a bell housing bolt. It may be possible when you installed the transmission the ground wire(s) may be not be making a good connection. Hope this information helps, please let me know what the issue was, I'm very interested to see what the issue is. /K&K
Just saw your video. Doing the same thing. My OEM fuel pump had the foam black sleeve around the pump. Notice new pump didn’t have black foam sleeve. I ordered the OEM pump Module and it had the black sleeve on the pump. The black Steve deteriorated causing to block the filter. Should I remove the black sleeve and leave it off? What would be the advantage and disadvantage.
The black sleeve is a noise insulator. The pump is cooled internally so keeping at least 1/4 or more of fuel at all times in the tank would be better then removing the noise insulator. /K&K
Things in China are not good…for that matter where they source products from is down right spooky….I ordered and received a rather nasty rear drum for a 99 Chevy 1 ton…I received a cast iron POS that had a gob of cast welded to the outside edge as a supposed counterweight/ balancer?????….as soon as I touched it it came off….I went over to NAPA and paid twice the price and received a rather well fitting well balanced repair part!
We use good coolant to neutralize the rusted coolant from the heater core then back flush with distilled water. Distilled water does not have additive to loosen scale up. As shown that heater core had a lot of scale build up. /K&K
I'm replacing my broken chain right now in my '98 Sunfire. I'm stuck and can't get the cam bolt loose because it turns. How did you guys do it? I already have it timed and ready to replace everything, just have to break bolt free and put parts back on.
I don't have an impact :( I'll keep trying to figure something else out. I was able to use the belt for the crank pully to bind it, but that won't work with the cam.
Hey, seriously, thank you for these videos. It is helping so much on my 03 qx4, is there anyway to contact you? I have a few more issues that I'm hoping you'd be able to help me with, if it's not too much a bother. But you're right about what you say about it not being easy this my first modern car and I must say it's challenging. Any other help would be appreciated my friend.
The QX4 can be a difficult engine to learn on which is why we have done these videos to help others out. Our business email is enshoptechproductions@gmail.com. We look forward to hearing from you. /K&K
That year uses an encoder motor on the transfer case to engage the 4Hi/4Low, you need to lift the truck up in the air as shown in the video and see if the front drive shaft is moving when engaged. If its not spinning either you have no power / signal to the encoder motor or the encoder motor is bad. It odd to me you hear a clunk from the front diff. Normally you would hear a noise from the encoder motor on the transfer case once you hit the switch to change modes 2hi/4hi/4low. /K&K
@@KNKRNRThank you for the quick response. The clunk could be the transfer case I just know it’s under the truck. So you don’t think it could be the actuator motor?
@@KNKRNR I’m sorry I listed the wrong truck the correct truck is a 1997 k2500 GMC suburban that I put a new switch in and all it does is make a clunk when switched to 4hi or 4lo. Would this truck also have the encoder motor that I should check?
I don't see you tube team videos where your both under the truck heck yes going ham and potatoes with class. Very informative. My dad has a 2004 dodge ram 1500 we are replacing a tcase. Like the pictures you showed it grenades and my dad bought it because of that. He got it for 1,000. Truck has 200000 plus miles. I now consider the seals may have caused the tcase to burn up and go kaboom . Salute to you two for taking your time to teach a real world view. 🫡
@@KNKRNR Yeah I think it was a good deal. My dad was wanting to put a engine in the same truck he already has that blew. It was a 2wd so and engine would have been more work then the transfer case. I'm glad I didn't have to mess with the exhaust to fit that big old transfer case in. At a junkyard about 100 miles away he got it for 300ish and he bought a used front drive shaft to which was like 60 that he didn't necessarily need. It was a but thicker and had bigger ujoints so that was a plus. I actually went to the wrong junkyard one time and wasted a day doing that but oh well what can I say. There was also a company LKQ selling one for 300 deliverd to their department like an hour and half away. I'm glad for your video and glad to leave a good response on your channel.
Oh and no back fees on the truck but registration will be due and also a check engine light which we were told has something to do with the fuel tank but I haven't googled the code or nothing.
That little ground wire is broken on my 1995 Buick Park Avenue. I have a crank no start with fuel pressure and spark. Would that control the injector fire? I know it’s been years, but I’m hoping you can help.
The ignition module under the coil pack controls the fuel injectors. if you have constant B+ voltage but no ground switching at the fuel injector connector(s) then replace the ignition module. You need to fix that ground wire first before condemning the ignition module. /K&K
Hello and thanks for the video. Sorry if you addressed this somewhere but did you replace the engine core plug that sits behind the timing chain? Part # 14033197. It's what supposedly makes the tensioner and chain go bad after the orifice gets plugged with carbon from not changing oil regularly and then the chain/tensioner doesn't get any oil. I'm wondering if it is even possible to replace it with the engine in the car because it apparently requires the use of a slide hammer to remove it. -Thanks Again
We don't normally replace the oil feed weep cap unless its gone, at that point you would have low oil pressure if it was gone. We make sure that the feed hole is open and clear. Generally chain stretch is what destroys the tensioner. The valve springs are a little heavy for this engine but they use them to keep valve float at bay during high rpm operations. If the weep hole is clear and clean I wouldn't waste the time to replace it. Most timing chains are feed from splash oil returning from the head to the oil pan. /K&K
