Thanks for watching. It's 42" inches wide by 24" inches deep and 14 and 1/2" inches tall. Wood is 3/4" inch birch plywood for lightness and strength. Door is 1/2" inch thick.
Nice work man. Looks good. So what are the exact dimensions of the box please. And thickness of plywood. My cherokee is in the shop getting an extreme overhaul so I'm unable to measure it. Thanks.
Hello, Sorry it took so long to answer. The cargo cover is from any Explorer from 96 to 2001. The hardware is from the earlier cherokees from about 87 to 93. The only modification was to cut the pull bar slightly shorter to fit in between the cherokee cargo hatch where it secures in the closed position.
@@FerrariLamborghini24 Thats a nice compliment. But I don't think it would be worth it for you. They're really easy to make. Just build a box, throw on some drawer slides and mount it using turnbuckle. ALOT CHEAPER if you do it.
Wow it can flex, but that’s not usable travel as evidenced by the spring popping out and the tight brake line. Long arm setups flex like that without falling apart
Lol... I installed longer brake lines and longer coils. Now it flexes great and the coil doesn't pop out. Went to Moab a couple years ago and didn't lift a tire on the trails!
Hello, It's still around... Search Rubicon Express RE 6200 short arm lift kit. After all these years, it still performs great on the trails. All replacement bushings are still available and just keep everything greased. Tracks like stock on the highway doing 80!
Hello, I usually run about 15 psi without bead locks. They were 33x12.50 r15 tires on 15x8 rims. The narrow rims hold the bead of the tire better at low pressure. A 10 inch wide rim would not hold the bead as well due to lower pressure.
Hey bud, The stock bump stops were pretty short and were deteriorated and still wouldn't prevent the springs from popping out. I noticed that in the garage when I installed the drop brackets and was checking droop. I went to 7.5" springs and longer stops. Now they flex awesome and haven't popped out yet. Thanks for watching.
LOL... Sorry. I just figured out TB is throttle body! Its a rubber distributor cover from a Fox body mustang with the old 5.0L engine. I had trouble with water ruining my TPS sensor so I added dielectric grease to the connections and modified the rubber boot to cover the whole thing. Works perfect.
Hey William, Lol, yeah I considered long arms but these were designed for heavy trail running from the start. People think their XJ can ride like a Cadillac if they go longarms. News flash... 101" wheelbase, straight axles , and unibody. With drop brackets I'm still using the factory four link geometry (five link with track bar) and can cruise at 80 on the freeway no problems. It flexes PLENTY for what I do and is rock solid. BTW, I'm now on 7.5" of lift and no regrets with drop brackets. If you go this route, be patient with the install. Leave ALL bolts loose so you can move and position the brackets as you go. Take your time, they're a pain in the behind but worth it! I ended up stitch welding the brackets to my frame stiffeners for strength Thanks for watching.
Your name is Randy? Hello, David here. Enjoyed another of your videos today, 2 for 2 . I like your mods, ingenuity and positive mental attitude. Make more videos so we can enjoy your creativity on your Jeep, and your ideas for improving it👍👍
Hi David, Thank you for the encouragement. I'll try and do more stuff. Just need to get some basic editing software and learn how to use it! Truth be told...laziness takes over and wins alot! Lol. Thanks again.
I just revisited your storage box build after a year or so ago watching it and being inspired. I just re-watched the diy overview and appreciated it all over again, then I thought about your heart scare you mentioned in the video and thought I haven't seen any new videos from this fella and so I looked in your playlist hoping to see something new posted and here is a muffler update on Zoe. Cool, at least your alive and on the other side of all the craziness of the last year or so. I don't know you or you me but thru Jeeps we are jeepfam. Glad you and Zoe are still kicking 🤪🤗
Hey David, Yeah I'm ok. Thanks for your concern. I really haven't done much to her except get the steering done and the new muffler. Oh, and added 35s on JK wheels. Maybe time for another walkaround.
Great video and sense of humour 😀. Thanks for sharing! Your design is really clever and I think that’s probably how I’d go about myself when I purchase the right XJ. I like how it’s something removable if you’re going to trade it for another XJ but sturdy enough that it’s not moving around or loose in any way. Great solution!
@@zoexj4872 The arms are RC but I'm running Iron Rock rear springs and Fox shocks. The Metalcloak springs have a tight coil pack at the top that stabilizes the spring. Ride is good, plenty of flex and enough wheel travel to run desert washes. I also have the Currie swaybar.
@@zoexj4872 There is one on TrailRecon ' s site and there are about 45 videos of the build on BleepinJeep. The solar panel on the roof, the Dometic fridge and the hydro steering have all come after these videos. Working on a camping trailer right now.
What's up LB? Thanks for asking. Yeah, all is good, but having knee problems. Possible surgery down the road. Haven't traveled cause of covid and no mods added to the XJ. But she still runs every day. Looking to regear the axles and go to 35s and more armor. Take care and stay safe! Thanks again.
Sir, what is your opinion of the Easter Bunny and the Tooth Fairy if you don't believe in Santa? I really liked your video and the drop down lid. Lots of useful gear in the ammo cans! Stay safe.
Oh. LOL. I think my finger hit the stop button. Sorry. I was going to say I used a 5 foot long crowbar to check wheel bearing play and ball joint movement when it was on Jack stands. Gives you more leverage to move the wheel assembly up and down when visually inspecting for loose components. Thanks for watching.
Hi Jesus, It really helped to let the hot air escape. It keeps the hoses, belts, and sensors at a reasonable temperature. The only way to keep your vehicle from overheating is to just maintain your cooling system and make sure it all works well together. Air in the system is a big problem and cause the lower radiator hose to collapse. So making sure the cooling system is bled properly and always topped off is a plus. The hood vents score big points for bling.
Sorry. Replied to wrong video. The waterproofing helped alot to keep the connections working properly. Haven't had a problem since. One thing I learned is to use OEM sensors when possible. Parts store stuff sucks as far as sensors go. Your engine relies on quality and accurate sensors.
Hey Travis, Yeah I thought about that, but the slides telescope out from each other and I can't drill into the slides to screw in an eye hook. Otherwise the slides won't work. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Would like to know how you added that cargo cover I used to have a 94 ford explore a couple of years ago I still have the cargo cover and now I have a 99 jeep xj I would like to install on. Any tips?
Hey Gabriel, Yeah, so check out my other video titled "my XJ Cherokee walkaround part 2." About 7 minutes and 20 seconds into the video I talk about the cover install. One thing I forgot to mention was I removed the original metal grab bar that you grab hold of to pull out. I replaced it with an aluminum rod trimmed to fit the narrower Cherokee hatch opening. I'll try and do a better video showing how easy it is. Keep an eye out at the junk yard for the stock XJ pieces that hold the cargo cover in place. I believe you can still get some on the internet. Take care and thanks for watching.
HATE those Allen head bolts. Used this Solid 8.25 cover on my '01 XJ ~ 1 year back... had a bear of a time getting all those bolts to line up and go in. Replaced the gear oil this past weekend and couldn't get 3 of those bolts to line up anymore. Ended up not using 3 of the bolts this time... knock on wood, the LubeLocker is doing it's job and no leaks as of 2 days driving. We'll see how long it holds up. I'm getting rid of the Solid cover (heavy as hell!! and a few of the bolt holes are a mm or 2 off from the differential). I'll use something else next go around... Great job on your install!!
Hey bud, LOL, yeah I had a hell of a time that I didn't show on camera getting that heavy cover lined up too. So it's not just me that feels the same way. I'd go with ruff stuff next time. One of the bolts felt like it was starting to cross thread, but no leaks yet. Time for another oil change soon. Take care and thanks for watching!
@@zoexj4872 good luck on your next gear oil change. My next time I'm going to try another maker and chase out all the bolt hole and re-tap as needed before installing the new cover. Still not sure who I'll use. If mine starts leaking soon I'll have to make that decision sooner rather than later. :) Thanks for posting your vid!!
A lot, meaning most, of people have talked about how the holes don't line up on these covers and they have to bore them out to actually fit. At least they are cheaper. Now I'm considering the Poison Spider ones and paint the spider. *Poison for the front 30 and not sure about the rear yet. I didn't specify in my comment.
@@ProjectXJ , I was thinking of that kit, the Cavfab, and a guy in Tennessee called BK fabworks. I went with Bk fabworks. A guy in my neighborhood runs it, and he likes it. Still waiting for delivery. Also going taller with coils and adding a couple leaves with relocation brackets in back.
@@zoexj4872 I am not a fan of the heim joints. I think they wear fast and I don't like having one bolt holding everything together, but I know a lot of people run it and like it.
@@ProjectXJ , Yeah, I felt the same way since it would be easier to replace Chevy tie rods almost anywhere, but if this setup is problematic then I'll go a different route.
Hello, Thank you for watching. It's a 1996 with 4.0L and automatic transmission. Dana 30 with Lokka locker and HD 5-760X u-joints. Chrysler 8.25 with stock internals in the rear. NP231 with SYE and Adams driveshafts. Custom transmission crossmember and skid plate. Rubicon Express 4.5 inch lift with drop brackets stitch welded to unibody frame stiffeners and custom rock sliders welded in. Home made swaybar disconnects, Chrysler LeBaron hood vents, ZJ clutch fan and tie rod. Trimmed fenders for 33 inch BFG KO2s on Mickey Thompson wheels. Going to upgrade to 7.5 inch coils, thicker leaf spring packs, and crossover steering with over the axle track bar. Also going to install an Aussi locker for the rear. Take care!
" I just need lockers, maybe body armor to, and sliders... prolly front and back bumper to" hahahaaha typical xj owner right there. I'm slowly building my 92 xj
I have a few new parts to install right now, just sitting next to my bed. New one ton steering, HD steering box spacer, synergy ball joints and C Gussets. Just need the time to get it done!
Yes sir. Saving up for long arms, OTK steering, and a Detroit locker like yours. Some places say they are not as strong as they used to be. Any thoughts? I know you run it.
@@zoexj4872 I haven't had any problems with mine. There is also the Yukon Grizzly locker which is the same thing just different brand. I have a friend running that front and rear and he likes it. Honestly I think either one is great!
@@zoexj4872 I think you will really like the long arms! I need to get some frame stiffeners like you have. I just need the money and the time. I have to cut off my sliders in order to install them, and I welded on my track bar bracket so that will have to come off as well. Then I will have to get the long arm brackets on again. I hear its not that hard but just a lot of work. Its on my short list of upgrades though!
