Hey thanks for that video. I need to buy a controller and i see ebay sells a few but used. I hope they work. Secondly, i changed a blending valve, mechanic ran a scan and suspects controller issue because scanner read the opening and closing of targets were off. Im going to try this and thanks for your very helpful video.
Buy a trim tool kit,plastic wont hurt it 👍 Also if you pull gently the chrome from the bottom side and then you do the same with the black piece it will come off without breaking.
I’ve always had great results with Stihl…but the last ms201 I bought I think is having this problem. So I’m going to try this method out thanks didn’t even think about that.
Not always the case , I just recently lost my heat , on my Grand Caravan , had it to Garage, changed that unit , u just did in the film , still didn’t work , couldn’t find the problem , tried another Garage Chysler Dodge , Garage, was in for 6 Days , finally found it was the Cluster, .$2200 later, i
Hello, can i fly you in to check my car, i put in a new engine, transmission and starter. The car still won't start. The dealership can't figure it out
Is the reason this was replaced because the air location buttons were not working ...ie (windshield, floor, directly at you, mix of directly at you and floor ) or was it because the heater knobs werent working? I ask because my 2012 the heat and ac work fine on every setting but the floor...so i was thinking i needed to change 1 of the 3 blend door actuators , but now i am wondering if this is what i need to change? My fan speed also works perfectly when i dial it up higher or lower , the only thing that doesn't work is when i set the hot or cold towards the floor, otherwise it all works perfect.
I think you're getting a lot of 'jobsworths' making comments. I plug big/small cavities everywhere. If I see a hole - I fill it. No rude comments please!
Nice video. My 201 is about 6 years old and seems to leak from this area. Hopefully it’s just vibrated loose over time and I can tighten it like you did. Thanks for sharing this tip
I bought a spray foam kit. Huge mess and looks terrible. It was applied to a low sloped roof in the rafter bays. It's very uneven and in some areas I don't have the recommended depth in some places. I'm wondering if I can just fill out the uneven parts with one of these products since the other stuff costs like $30 a can and I don't want to buy more and wait. Would there be a problem with doing this? I'm assuming I'd go with Locktite since it seems to have the best adhesion...
very good video thank you very much for the information. I am building out a school bus into an RV and I’m planning on taking the ceiling down and the walls and insulating and putting the steel back up. I don’t plan on having a wooden ceiling like most everybody else does because I want to be different lol but having proper installation will be a game changer as I spend some time in northern Minnesota in the winter.
Question: May I open the control inside, change some bulbs, my controller can't see the light when night, it's not easy to switch the wind port, thank you!
You failed to mention on the onset WHY you had to change the controls (always mention this), what symptoms led you to think that control panel needed replacement, what sounds, visuals, etc. led you to that diagnosis and need to replace. That's quite important to youtube viewers about an issue.
Gee, thanks Dad. I don't need to tell anyone anything. As I stated, the purpose of the video was simply to show the proper way to remove it because the other videos on this were destroying the dash. Get your nose out of the air and mind your business. I don't give a fuck about RU-vid and the normal people who wanted to know why I changed it just asked me...... And I answered.
So Hot-diggity-dog-diggity Ooh what you done to me? I was not as bitter as you are an old man with a mentality issue. If you failed to mention WHY you had to change the controls, it could have helped others and doing a youtube video doesn't make you a mechanic or a celebrity. Asking why you needed a replacement is common and I'll try my best not be bea jerk about the matter as you've been. Others will see the hate in your as well. If how you acted normal, I don't want to visit a sanitarium to visit you. Thanks for the complements and I appreciate it, even though you never answered the questions others wanted to know. And, I didn't have to curse once to show my illiteracy. I suggest that you do the video over and this time what needed to be done. Oh, and I appreciated your video. I just wanted to comment on what you left out which is important to ALL. Good day... 8-)
What were the symptoms for you to do this repair? My heater blows warm for a little while, then blows cold on both the driver's and passenger's side. Looking at the temp gauges, I do not believe it to be a thermostat problem. I though maybe the valve that controls the water flow through the heater core, but I can not find that valve on the van or online looking for parts. Thanks for your help and the video.
Perhaps if you're having "blending of the warm/cold air" issue, you may think it be the "blending actuator?" Someone tell me if this is correct, or what was the solution (part to replace).
Maverick, yes. When I put the new blending actuator in, there's no more clicking and resolved the issue. I don't know if it's related, but thereafter, I cleared the ECM codes, and since I replaced the actuator in May, I am unable to see DTC Codes (electronic module which expresses if there's an issue in the EVAP system and my meter reads yellow light and EVAP. I have been unable to get all the system to ok everything for an inspection sticker which failed in May. I ran the car since then, for hundreds of miles for the car's computer system to register all codes during driving. I was told to drive the car for about 100-200 miles for that to happen, but thus far it hasn't because I'm retired and don't travel anywhere or work so limited use of my car. A couple of mechanics told me that it would be the solution to get the car's system to pick up all the checked codes (all sensors) and return to normal. It hasn't happened yet. I'm a bit frustrated. Perhaps a ECM FUSE?
I’m grateful for this, thanks. I ordered a new gasket set but your suggestion will definitely be tried first and I will go ahead and put some locktite in there to help prevent it from doing it again.
*Thank you.* *I have to remove all of this SH!T from my basement because it traps moisture and causes humidity and mold problem that destroyed my entire basement.* *I made the biggest mistake of my life to remove the fiberglass insulation and instead put spray foam. It turned out to be horrible. NEVER AGAIN.*
@@JM.TheComposer Yes, I had to put one. However, note the bigger issue. What started in the exponential growth in the humidity level in my basement that was JUST PERFECTLY FINE for 20 years? It was this spray foam junk that choked the life out of my basement.
@@JM.TheComposer Midwestern United States. I had a couple of experts and professionals examine the situation and they all pointed out to the suffocation of basement caused by spray foam.
I wear eye protection, long sleeve shirt and rubber dish washing style gloves when using this stuff. You do NOT want to come in contact with any of this foam material.
Appreciate the video, I had issues the the door actuators but lost power to the driver's side. I noticed the blinking defrost light in the bottom right after the new install in your video. Did this fix your problem or did you still have issues with the hot/cold change? That's how my 2012 grand caravan started with the problem. The actuator was missing teeth in one of the gears and the flashing light began with the "clicking noise".
Brad, mine is the same issue (hot cold out different dual controls to cover both sides), and the clattering/fast clicking as if the gear or damaged gear is the issue).
@@hotdognonesky3766 But when did an ad man or marketing man ever do DIY? lol The stuff I was using today had nothing but danger warnings on it, but bought from a Builders Merchant and not a DIY shop, so maybe you were supposed to know which way up. Once I found out to turn it upside down it worked well and filled the gap rather than covering me.
@@ianwoodward4993 Lol. I've found that it actually matters which can you get as well. They make smaller ones that don't seem to work as well in an upright position, but these show it right on the label in a picture of the product being used.
I'm looking for foam that doesn't turn yellow. I'm doing an art project outside and the foam turns yellow after a few days from the Sun. Does anybody know what kind of foam that wont turn yellow??
