Pro tip: Use hand lotion on your hands before using the foam. Foam sticks to your hands worse than super glue, the skin comes off not the foam but if you use lotion it wipes right off with no problem. Also it will ruin clothes that the foam touches, your never going to remove the foam from your shirt or shorts. Gaps and cracks does not put as much pressure on surrounding wood when curing. If you use big gap to seal in a newly installed front door the door will hit the frame once it cures. The foam pushes on the door frame and forces it to move. Window and door does not expand as forcefully and is much less likely to force the frame over or with a window the window may be difficult to open and close because the pressure making the frame fit tighter. Each one has a slightly different formulation for different projects.
very good video thank you very much for the information. I am building out a school bus into an RV and I’m planning on taking the ceiling down and the walls and insulating and putting the steel back up. I don’t plan on having a wooden ceiling like most everybody else does because I want to be different lol but having proper installation will be a game changer as I spend some time in northern Minnesota in the winter.
For filling a wall i used GE. It went in líquid, then expanded. The others came out as foam and wouldnt grow an fill. It mainly stayed in one place. Hard to find the stuff though
Are you talking about the stuff that comes in a bag with a smaller bag inside that you rupture and then shake it to mix it up? That stuff is a totally different monster. Lol I've only seen that used in setting poles in the ground.
You can do whatever you want, as long as it works for your region. An insulation contractor said you can even use sheet foam. Cut it to size and spray foam the edges. Not as high on the r-value, but pretty cheap in comparison.
john cass I was a bit premature on the "after" portion. The locktite foam expanded way more afterwards. They are all pretty solid and still haven't lost thierluster
They weren't exposed to sunlight, so there isn't any deterioration of the foams. They all look the same. I can't show you anything because they've been covered with drywall now.
I do like this comparison yet need to mention that there is no controlled comparison of expansion, density, and linear footage per cost. The application area might be a bit larger than what come of these cans are designed for. "Gaps and Cracks" typically is for those gaps between framing and the sash of a window or door, pipe or electrical penetrations. Sticky-ness is also a good point of this test since you might be working overhead, perhaps a 1" gap. A true comparison would be first to show the density and R value specs. Then, for each can at suggested working temperatures and touching the surface, run a single 1 foot line of each to measure expansion when FULLY cured. Then, dispense the can in measurable lines to determine total linear footage. Either way thumbs up.
Xavom I just did my own thing and used each can completely and gave my opinion on each one. I didn't consider doing actual comparison in a specific and controlled way...... it was on a whim. Lol I just wanted to see for myself and give an opinion. I'm seeing now that maybe I should actually do a real comparison. People seem to want a fully scientific example instead of my bumblefuckery. As far as temperature, it was hot as frigg up there. Lol
I think this stuff will expand even more over the next 3 days. I'm building an 8x8 metal arched metal shed and looking to fill 2 inch space between my paneling and the metal exterior (Yeah I have no intention of ever taking it apart). In all I think I need to fill about Four 4x8 panels x 2 inches ( I think about 800 cubic inches). Possible with cans? How many?
It will cure in a few hours. It doesn't keep expanding for days. If you are doing an entire shed and don't mind going slowly like this, I'd suggest you get a bigger can. www.ebay.com/itm/383001989359 Or install foam board and use the canned foam for glue around the edges.
I bought a spray foam kit. Huge mess and looks terrible. It was applied to a low sloped roof in the rafter bays. It's very uneven and in some areas I don't have the recommended depth in some places. I'm wondering if I can just fill out the uneven parts with one of these products since the other stuff costs like $30 a can and I don't want to buy more and wait. Would there be a problem with doing this? I'm assuming I'd go with Locktite since it seems to have the best adhesion...
Data Science with R Depending on the area you're filling, you might need to use the one for doors and windows. It doesn't expand as much and it won't push the door out of square.
I had a vandal punch my travel trailer several times in anger when the deadbolt didn't give way and allow them to enter. The dent is the size of a dinner plate, about 2 inches deep. I've thought I could pull the dent out with a wood and bolt pulling system, and that spray foam would fill it from inside. Then fill the small bolt holes as needed with body repair. Do you think this will work?
The foam might actually pop the dent out for you. They are usually made of very thin materials. Also, using a suction type dent puller would be better. No holes that way.
You might try a suction cup such as a temporary handicap grab bar. Very powerful hold. Research the problem on youTube. You are not the fist with this problem. Learn from other’s mistakes. You don’t want to over pull the metal. Ask a body shop how they do it. Really big dents can be quickly fixed. Good Luck JoeB
The biggest problem is this guy is closing up the eves which is supposed to allow air to flow thru to the roof vent so moisture can dry out the wood ant take heat away thru the linear vent which is supposed to be on-top the ridge. That is a no no!!
John Nadratowski I'm actually doing a complete closed cell insulation spray, which is applied directly to the roof and completely seals out moisture and then putting a steel roof on top of 1x3s. Construction is changing
So is the attic a heated space as well now? I'm still confused! Is having your home that air and vapor tight a good idea, or has it lead to humidity and mold issues? Air exchanger?
GREAT VIDEO. THANK YOU. I HOPE THAT IS NOT MOLD I SEE ON THE WOOD ABOVE WHERE YOU PUT THE FOAM (ESPECIALLY THE LOCTITE). IF IT IS, IT DEFINITELY NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. THANK YOU FOR YOUR INFORMATION. GOS BLESS
Why would you do that? Did I miss something? Soffits are intended to be vented. Id plan to be redoing your roof when the shingles bake off your roof! If you know something I don't know, please share, i don't mind being proved wrong if I can learn something from it! Hopefully I'm wrong, thanks for the comparison.
@@victorvek5227 They will be. There is no ventilation needed. It amazes me that there are so many ignorant people out there. We used to ventilate to deal with moisture in the insulation. Where did the moisture come from? The air that was vented in. It was causation as well as a cure. These days everything is completely sealed and homes are even vaccuum tested. You seal the outside of your sheeting, bond boards, Soffits and interior walls so they are basically air tight. All exterior wall applications require closed cell foam and you can use open cell foam in interior walls and flooring. Does anyone else need to be caught up on modern construction science?
@@hotdognonesky3766 Dude you are seriously confused about building science fundamentals. Start here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ld8pzIu45F8.html When one “air seals” in the attic, the *purpose is to prevent moisture from the living area from getting in the attic*. This moisture comes from human exhalation, showers, cooking, etc. You might have heard the phrase “air seal the ceiling plane”. Look it up. Houses that have sealed attic ROOFS (like you are attempting to do here) have all sorts of mechanical stuff up there (and THAT is a whole issue up for debate - see above link), and - importantly - the roof itself is insulated. For an example of this “new” way of doing things, see Matt Rinsinger on RU-vid. I wouldn’t recommend doing what he’s doing unless you have many thousands of dollars and a top flight engineer (and I still wouldn’t do it). In sealing up your soffit vents, you are asking for mold in your attic. Creating the perfect conditions for it, really.
They are the right way. Here we go again. There are entire discussions on here about this. There are different types of cans. These are held upright. It's even on the pictures on the can.
Thought I would use this (either types - small or large gaps) to spot fill sprayed on insulation in my Cal Spa. Had to " rip remove" areas of the foam(that seemed to be the same stuff ) to fix the chewed up led light wires from a RAT!!! Any one care to comment if I am not coming up with a cheap, decent fix?
Is this house a new build, from the little I've seen it doesn't look like it , to do a air tight seal as is done in an new build ,it has to done from the ground up. In an existing structure to refit to achieve a modern efficiency is going to be difficult and expensive. You would be better off buying a house built to meet this efficiency. But good luck your gonna need it
No, it's over 100 years old. Total remodel. All siding coming off, complete wrap and seal, all roofing coming off, adding sheeting over 1" boards, ice shielding, radiant heat barrier, 1x3 slats and metal roof. All together with new windows, doors, siding and full closed cell spray foam insulation at a full 4" thickness because of true 2x4 construction = energy efficient farm 5 bedroom 3 bath home with formal dining room and an office. All on top of a basement that houses a full woodshop to boot. So.... YUP!
I mean.... Maybe you know more than the manufacturer, but there's a straw inside the can that goes to the bottom. I think they may have done that for a reason.
@@hotdognonesky3766 watch the great stuff pro demonstration video on RU-vid. Also note that the cans that come with the gun all dispense upside down...
I've read a multitude of your replies to comments in which you say the wood is not wet or damp etc and never will be? I beg to differ, surely you'll get condensation? Without a circulation of air you'll get a build up of mildew and dank smell,,, I'm curious to find out why you're exempt from condensation? Cheers 🍻
Obviously you don't know anything about where the moisture in your attic comes from. Moisture is carried in with the air that flows through. The difference in temperature causes moisture to be deposited. Equalization of temperature allows the moisture to evaporate so the insulation can dry. If you remove all airflow and completely fill the cavity with closed cell foam, there isn't any moisture because there isn't any air going through to carry it in and deposit it. The cavity is completely filled and drywall is on the studs. No moisture can get into it unless for some reason a leak forms from the outside. If something goes through the metal roofing, heat reflecting layer, foam board, ice and water shield, 3/4" plywood and 1" boards..... I think I'll notice.
Once again..... Yes you do. It's now a sealed house. All spray foam insulation. There is no need for ventilation because there is no moisture to dry out. I get a bunch of these comments. New homes are wrapped and air tight, no reason not to do it to an old one. Lol
Your roof needs to breath to reduce cooling loads in warm temperatures and dispelling that heat also prolongs the life of your shingles. What your referring to is a hot roof. Which isn’t even close to what you did. A hot roof the entire underside is spray foamed thus the heat stays at the shingle surface and does not penetrate into the attic area. Not just your soffit openings. Your cutting off any air flow to your ridge vent or can vents from your soffit vents. Good tutorial on the expanding foam though. I will buy loctite from now on.
@@nicknass4647 And as I've stated in previous comments, there is a metal roof that is obviously self venting and a heat reflective membrane on the deck. Not that it's needed, because moisture cannot get into closed cell foam. The 1.5" area under the steel plus the corrugation are more than enough for airflow and a consistent temperature on the decking.
I'm looking for foam that doesn't turn yellow. I'm doing an art project outside and the foam turns yellow after a few days from the Sun. Does anybody know what kind of foam that wont turn yellow??
@@hotdognonesky3766 If I understand correctly closed cell foam doesn't absorb water. Great Stuff soaks up water like a sponge if you break the surface skin that forms when it cures. Dunno about Loctite.
@@tinman1955 It says it's closed cell. I'm not really worried about it though. It's covered by the expensive stuff now. That was just in preperation for the foam to be sprayed in with a gun. That was way faster than the cans.
I wear eye protection, long sleeve shirt and rubber dish washing style gloves when using this stuff. You do NOT want to come in contact with any of this foam material.
@@hotdognonesky3766 But when did an ad man or marketing man ever do DIY? lol The stuff I was using today had nothing but danger warnings on it, but bought from a Builders Merchant and not a DIY shop, so maybe you were supposed to know which way up. Once I found out to turn it upside down it worked well and filled the gap rather than covering me.
@@ianwoodward4993 Lol. I've found that it actually matters which can you get as well. They make smaller ones that don't seem to work as well in an upright position, but these show it right on the label in a picture of the product being used.
*Thank you.* *I have to remove all of this SH!T from my basement because it traps moisture and causes humidity and mold problem that destroyed my entire basement.* *I made the biggest mistake of my life to remove the fiberglass insulation and instead put spray foam. It turned out to be horrible. NEVER AGAIN.*
@@JM.TheComposer Yes, I had to put one. However, note the bigger issue. What started in the exponential growth in the humidity level in my basement that was JUST PERFECTLY FINE for 20 years? It was this spray foam junk that choked the life out of my basement.
@@JM.TheComposer Midwestern United States. I had a couple of experts and professionals examine the situation and they all pointed out to the suffocation of basement caused by spray foam.
You should of filled them to the exact same line as a control. This way you could see EXACTLY how each one responded. I appreciate you making the video, but I'm still confused bc you sprayed a lot more of the regular gap and crack - so did it REALLY have as much volume... 🤔
@@hotdognonesky3766 Thanks! I bought 2 cans of the Great Stuff Big gap filler. They even chewed through the tv cable running to the bedrooms. Do they make razor wire to scale (rat size)? I also have a bottle of Mercury oxide powder from my chemistry kit. I might put some in there, maybe a gram in each of the holes before I seal the holes up. I dont want to have to use it, but I dont want to deal with rats crawling in the walls.
Drip out after you use it? You mean when you're done with it you don't throw it away? If you try to use it as a stopper between uses, it will shoot out violently when you pop it open again. Meanwhile, if you bump it, it closes. It sucks.
Yes. However.....those people are notably less intelligent and boring. It's also possible that they are simply trying to make money on RU-vid. I am not.
Actually, it's not mold. And the venting isn't necessary any longer as it's now a closed and sealed house and all closed cell spray foam insulation is used. Anything else you'd like to know?
Again. Yes it is. I'm doing a complete seal on my home. All foam. Houses today are as air tight as possible. The purpose of air flow is to make it so the insulation can dry and moisture can't build up in it. If the house is wrapped and completely sealed, no moisture can get in there in the first place. New home construction is vaccumm tested to be sure it doesn't leak air. Also, there will be an air gap between the roof deck and the metal which vents it externally and leaves the air tight seal intact.
Uuuuuummmmm. What? It's definitely not water cleanup. It's a closed cell polyurethane foam. Water can be used as a mist to speed up the process, but that's all.
Okay as I can see on your video first of all you messed up because on the first can that you use you didn't put the same amount and on the second and third can you put more of those two then the first one does not going to come out correctly you need to redo this video the right way put the same amount you cannot put more 10 number 2 and then put way more of Care number 3 and expect you all have the same results I hope you redo the video so I can actually see it cuz I want to see it. and also thanks for the videos
What? Grammar has completely escaped you, my friend. I think what you're trying to say is that you think the amounts are proportionally unmatched. I just used these spaces for reference. I actually used the entire can of each one and gave my opinion on it. It's not a scientific study where I'm measuring CFM, volume and density. There were several areas that I used the foam, including straight runs that were roughly 15" long and 1" wide. These were considered in my opinion as well.
This cracks me up... seems your getting alot of unnecessary (but hilarious) feedback over a couple cans of foam... idk why I started reading in the first place but im glad I did... He really wants to see it bro, make the video over!! Blocked off vents what's wrong with you!! LOL 👍👍👍🤣🤣
I think you're getting a lot of 'jobsworths' making comments. I plug big/small cavities everywhere. If I see a hole - I fill it. No rude comments please!
It's me. It's the way I communicate. You don't have to like it. In fact, you can completely hate it! I don't care. Most of the people who comment on my stuff are more like me than they are like you. Those are my people.
