At the 16:48 mark I was waiting for the Crazy Lady Next Door (TM) to come running out yelling "YOU CAN'T PARK THERE!!" The finish work they did looks first rate.
Thanks, the guys who did the work had a tube screed like you described. I used the flat bar since I can use it for machinig stock later on. Thanks for watching!
I do appreciate to download Very useful and easily understanding videos . If you can make another video how to adjust scew position, residence area and cuscine area.. injection pressure and speed,hold pressure and time etc etc. Water temperature for polipropilene,ABS,FB,POM metrial.
You really want to give a 3 axis robot ago with a wide long conveyor belt. As you can do most things if all the tooling has conventional ejector frames, a 6 axis robot is just not needed like in a car industrial assembly line. It would speed up the de-moulding time by 5 times and then you can program the robot to stack the parts on the conveyor belt and if you need rotation other than the standard wrist on a 3 axis robot you can add an extra rotate cylinders for 90 and 180 degrees rotation or a motor drive for any axis on the head. Once you try it you will not go back, as you can just increase the size of the conveyor to run a machine 48 hours if required. This is if you have the space of course, but if you have I'd try one even if it's an older pneumatic one.
@@DragonflyEngineering If you do get one, I would recommend a ATM robot, the palletising is easy, you have like 9 settings on one page for height,width,depth,etc, it's very easy to program compared to say a Wittmann, Sepro or Star, with them robots you keep a master program and modify it to suit but an ATM (Automatic Timing Machine Co) robot you can write a program from scratch as it's very intuitive, as it uses pictures for your i/o's. Just get one with a touch screen pendant, the older type (touch screen) are bigger and easier to use the touch screen, it's faster to write with, but heavy, but the new ones use a generic touch screen with it's own software which works but the screen is 40% smaller, but it 50% lighter but I like the old ones, but they are 20 years old. But if you can even get them over your side of the world, they are worth a look. The older ATM robots before the touchscreens are a nightmare in comparison if you do look out for one. All the best.
Your obviously a very clever man much smarter then I ever could wish to be. But I have 1 question why Hass to me their garbage and i personally would not give any shop work that use Haas
You are not a smart man. You said it yourself. Haas are just fine. They are deployed far more than any other machine brand on the planet, they get a bad rep from low information people such as yourself spreading superstition.
Hi Chris, the biggest factor is cost to enter 5 axis milling...Yes, In the past, 12 years ago, I had to get ridd of a new Haas VM2 mill due to the spindle being thermally unstable and would change height during my long run mold surface mill cut. This 2019 5 axis mill is really good so far. It holds less than 0.001" blend from side mill to top mill. 3 axis drift is ~0.0001" so far. So I changed my mind for this mill, not sure about their other mills but they may have fixed their spindle problems from the past. Thanks for watching!
@@DragonflyEngineering thermal compensation wasnt a problem with the spindle it was a feature that didnt exist in the software. which it does now, just like a dmg. :)
@@DragonflyEngineering I can’t disagree with that…spent 30 years on the APPS started @ Mazak worked for Deckel Maho now DMG Amongst others all 🇬🇧 based..Been in thousands of companies ranging from 5 machines to literally 100s in all shapes and sizes..The Amount of Horror stories I can tell you about Haas is terrifying…I wish you all the luck in the world with that UMC I can’t think of anyone who deserves it more…
@@DieselRamcharger the problem I had was a bad bearing that would get itself into a chatter 5 hours into a 10k rpm run, so it would get hotter for about 1/2 hour, then fix itself then cool down again. The machine had thermal comp and I would let it spin for 45 minutes before I start the cut
If you intend to stretch out the battery life by replacing the bad cell(s)(it only takes one bad cell to do this) then find the cell(s) that aren't boiling and you'll find the bad ones. Get good cells of the same capacity and replace those bad cells and you might get awhile out of that battery. The cells are bubbling when it's not on the charger because the good cells are discharging through the bad cells to equalize the battery voltage. However, it's the good cells that are bubbling, the bad cells are shorted. Bubbling only comes from the hydrolysis that's happening as current passes through the electrolyte in the good cells. Really, this battery is toast. Rebuilding it by replacing out the bad cells will arrive you at one of the good cells taking a crap soon thereafter and you're back to square 1. That battery should cost somewhere around $6K, start saving. The salvaged old battery is going to net you somewhere around $1500 so there's a savings there. I've fought lead acid batteries for decades. When they go - they go.
Helped with a conversion once, and we just melted the lead down and cast it in to bars. Put the bars in the bottom of the battery tray. Was enough room for the lithium on top with the rest of the bars around them.
PBRchaeology? Those beer cans were a poor excuse for rebar! With regard to the chisel shaft lube- it reminds me of the case lube used when resizing brass cartridges back when I reloaded my own ammunition. The cartridges expand radially when the powder burns, and you typically use carbide dies to return the cartridge to the proper O.D. If you don't use lubricant, the brass cartridge will conform to the I.D. of the sizing die and be difficult (at best) to remove. I'm guessing that the chisel shaft lube serves a similar purpose. GREAT music!
For larger projects like this, I've seen a few people recommend the larger electric jackhammer from harbor freight. It's like the size of a pneumatic one, but electric, and supposed to be pretty decent. Being taller, you might have less back ache from bending over all day
@@advicevice yes, the garage is really old and is built on the property line, so if I knocked it down the I would need to build a replacement 6 ft back from the property, thus a smaller garage
That Boy 90, check and clean the oil water cooling solenoid, and then water flow check when open, if the water temp is below 18°C it shouldn't have a problem 22°C max. If all that is o.k, I would pump acid through the oil transfer cooler and make sure you treat the water and monitor the PH level correctly. It's best to have two in-closed chillers, one for the tooling and one for the machines. Using 1" flex pipe would help to supply the water too. Good luck
@@PeckhamHall thanks for the tip! There isnt a solenoid back there anymore, I just run the water full on, 3/4” hose. I tried CLR flush but didnt notice change.
@@DragonflyEngineering yeah was going to correct it 3/4" after I had wrote it but I thought you would get the idea, insulated metal pipe until close to the machine would be the best.
If you have a filter on the inlet at 45° it probably just that possible thinking about it, but you need an in-line filter on the inlet to stop an contam getting into the cooler.
Your "tank trucks" will work a lot better if you take the wheels off, and turn off the red soft plastic they put on there and just have bare steel wheels. They copied the design, and the got the "plastic" and "red" part right, but they messed up on the "super hard" aspect of those "tires". I have 2 sets of those, both with bare steel wheels, and they roll really nice now. They even sell them with an option of bare steel wheels now instead of the soft rubber.
With bare steel wheels, you definitely wouldn't need a winch to move it. I have a ~7000lb cnc lathe and a 12000lb mill (though the mill isn't currently 12,000 because a bunch of stuff is off of it), and on a smooth concrete floor, I can push either machine myself on those yellow skates.
@@DragonflyEngineering I got that tip from one of the guys at NYC CNC yt channel - I saw them using those amzn/eby skates to move a mill, and made a comment about it, and they replied "turn the rubber/plastic off the wheels on the lathe - they work fantastically after that", so the credit goes to them!
What a tough job.😯The man is a Capable person.💪Our company offers Vacuum Casting and Sheet Metal.If you have any project needs it,It 's my pleasure to help you.😊
It really pleases me to see a young person getting on the job experience. Was he a local engineering student? [EDIT] ahh, nephew Simon... still a big help.
Yes, you can but there can be a limmit for thin small pieces if your clamp is way oversized. The 250 ton toggle clamp cannot detect a soft 1 mm tall parts in it's back pressure,,,usually. Thanks for watching
The guys who have been there have already made most of the possible mistakes, so listen to them and watch how they do things because they do it a certain way based on their past hard lessons. Take you time and think twice befor you hit any controller buttons. "what can go wrong with this set up or button I am about to push." Good luck!
Cool! - Proof that: Lots of Sweat, Elbow grease and Muscle/Machine power can accomplish anything, with additional mental preparation, perseverance and time.❤👍👍
@@DragonflyEngineering Yes, I agree. I just watched few of the single person lawn cleanup videos, ended up cleaning my backyard without an issue, while my neighbors would spend several hundreds. Definitely your video is inspirational as well, esp. digging to install pipes. Look forward to the final garage transformation.❤️👍
Wow! That's a heckuva find. I feel like I need to comb craigslist in California for stuff like this... We don't see kuka machines on the used market here in Colorado.
I just got myself a used ar3 robot arm that I plan to use for molding. I’m still in the same “tinkering” phase with it but hope to get it producing by the end of the year. Can’t wait to see more updates on this project!
