@@Thomas-fo9zu customer! Though I’m slowly collecting parts to build one for myself 😂

@@inthelandofmilkandhoney457 take the shroud, intake and exhaust off and you should be able to fit it in the trunk

@@wickedwerks it’s worth a try. Thanks bro. 🙂

Haha, watching more of the vid, you may not need anything!

@@alfredrey3556 no respect for the French period 😂

@@wickedwerks , we've got a Dauphine Gordini in Spain from 1963 to 1973 and It was not that bad as you say. It was a quite fast and reliable car for that period. Maybe for outside Europe, mainly in the USA, It was not a good car, but our standards were quite different from the USA ones. The real problem in your country was the poor Renault service. The other thing is that any car with less than 800HP is a sh*It in your country. That's the USA way of life. Cheers from Barcelona (Spain - EEC).

@@sam03137 I don’t like ordering from Jbugs, mostly because their customer service sucks. But they carry the same crap most places do. I believe the valve cover clips wear out over time; they should put up a bit of a fight. Aftermarket clips sucks. I like to run bolt on valve covers from CB Performance when I can afford it. I typically stick to CIP1, CBP, and Wolfsburg West for my parts.

@@wickedwerks thanks for the help, the clips still seem pretty good. I’ll check out some options

@@yang3226 depends on your driving style and what you like. I really like spicy 1600s or a 1776 with ICTs and a mild cam. Keep it simple and you’ll never have any issues. I feel like the bigger displacement you get the more issues you run into.

@@wickedwerks i won’t lie I’m new to learning the differences in engines and what not, I’d like an engine that can keep up ya know? I do think maybe a 1600 or a friend said 1641(something like it) but I’m not sure how tuning it works.

@@yang3226 tuning it is more or less the same as a stock engine unless you do dual carbs then it’s only a little different and you’ve gotta do it twice. A 1641 is just a slight bigger piston and cylinder than doesn’t require any machining to the case or head to fit. If I’d used a stock crank in this engine in the video, it would be a 1641. But I used a slightly longer stroke crankshaft so it increased the displacement a little bit. But it’s got a stock carb and exhaust. Easy to tune and reliable, plenty of power. Will do over 100mph on the highway.

@@wickedwerks that honestly would be perfect for me, still relatively stock, easy to work on, plus reliable and fun! So with a 1600 engine I wouldn’t have to cut the case at all correct? Just put different crankcase on it, pistons, and what not?

Does that heating system work? Beatiful sound 👍❤️

Hoping to host a cruise in a couple weeks. Rachel’s got a three state route plotted out for us 😂

To rebuild the engine correctly, it would take a lot of time & money to do it.

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle I still wonder if it's weird to feel sorry for an inanimate object! 🤔

@@TrixedOut No, it not weird.

@@muzzcovw7674 too late now, I made it fit 😂

@@wickedwerks 😁 Fits like OJs glove. You know, I saw center mains that looked like that reused a lot years ago, as long as it's run responsibility, it can last a while

@@muzzcovw7674 you know I’m good to beat the snot out of it 😂 it’ll be dead the same day I install it

@@wickedwerks 😆

Unless you’re going to Volksfair, then maybe meet there…

😆

Watch the video again, and listen to what Taylor said about this engine.

Yeah I know, I don’t expect it last very long either. I’m simply putting it together to see if it’ll run at all and for how long. I expect it to fail fairly quickly.

@@wickedwerks you'll need very thick oil to have some presure at idle when hot.

@@Kanrinin01 too thick and it’ll overheat. The relief valves are pressure controlled, if the oil is thick enough when hot to keep them closed, the oil never makes it to the cooler. I’m going to run what I normally run. If it dies, it dies.

@@wickedwerks yeah but no. The oil pressure relief bypass your oil cooler between 3 and 3.5bars. If your engine is brand new with a good work on the line, yes a thick oil isn't the right move and I saw way too much pressure (more than 7 bars when it's cold). But when it runned some times (lets say passed 10000kms), even with a 20w50 you can hardly pass 3 bars when it's hot. I drive my engine since more than 20 years now, only with 20w50 and I never had any heating problem. An engine who overheat litteraly never happenned to me, even after 1000kms in one shot with my eriba in the back,and I live in a hot place. Usually, after a fresh rebuild, I put some low budjet 15w40 for the first 5000kms and 20w50 after. You'll have a lot of "polution's parts" in your oil and when you open your oil filter, omg the horror you can find in it. For you, this engine are whorn out and you rebuilt it like that, it'll have too much internal oil leak (due to too much playing). If you put a 30mm oil pump, this can limit this problem but with a stock pump it'll be impossible to build enough pressure at idle with an oil like 15 or 10w40. Anyway, so for the long post and good luck to you.

Likely so 😂