can you bolt on the head...yes will the pistons clear the valves? possibly CR...sorry wouldnt have a clue. It sounds like you probably should just use the blacktop bottom end
@@hawes_power5590 okay thankyou, it would be for an na, so I would like the extra 0.2L. Does the head need any modification? Or can it just be bolted on?
Will removing the cover for the injectors damage anything? Any negative issues associated with that? You mentioned it can make the engine a bit louder and considering doing that.
@@hawes_power5590 i live in massachusetts and the closest thing we have to rallying is a dirt parking lot. Unless i want to tow across the state for a paved track in Palmer that's covered with corvettes and porsches. It's a bit depressing. Your content helps. Keep spraying those rocks. You got fans out here.
What oil pump/sump combo are you using? Im wanting to use the later gen5 oil pump so i can use the crank trigger sensor but heard it wont fit the gen 3 3s sump as the mating sufaces dont match
I like this style of video. Grassroots rally content isn't that common. All the mistakes, mechanicals and drama make it real. Also like the build and engineering videos.
Congratulations on the 2-wheel class win! No shame in that. Remember rallying is an engineering challenge too. It's always possible to be faster with more fragile components, and I think your engineering background is what got you over the finish line that day.
@hawes_power5590 putting to much money into it but that's ok I love it, I had a Subaru tec do alot of work to it when it was rebuilt, can't wait to see how much fun your going have
I'm a EZ fan, had a little bit of work done on my 06 legacy, traveled NZ over 20 times, I have broken 3, 6 speed boxes racing , im NZ Born a bread ECB north shore . Love my subaru , so does Toyota lol
Love it great work, i will be ordering a set when they are available. Will you be making these to suit factory calipers and discs? Also will it be compatible with factory abs?
hey there. yes they will suit factory calipers and discs. as it would happen, i have just received the prototype cnc billet knuckles from the machinist. the prototype doesnt have the abs sensor, but i will mostly include it in the production versions. time to do some testing!
Hey Willy, youre probably busy with life but would like your input if possibly. Im in the process doing and figuring doing 3sge beams from a altezza swap into my 1999 toyota camry, got a 3sge engine that needs the block recondition but the head is still good. And I also have 5sfe complete out of a late 98 camry. I would like to do a 5sge non turbo build with what I got (I understand i need pistons and get the 5s block machine) Im not interested doing a turbo build. What are your thoughts on this is with the money and time do this?
you could potentially use the standard 5S pistons ( you will need to check compression ratio and valve clearance) to save money on pistons and machining. use some maxspeeding rods. you will need a custom engine mount solution, custom exhaust, custom loom and a decent ECU to run everything. its alot of work!
@hawes_power5590 haha sure is, but the work and effort I'm ready to do. I have gotten altezza 3sge manual engine loom and ecu and plugs to connect to my body loom. I am a fabricator by trade and have made engine mounts before to manual swap my 2mzfe camry wagon. So it doesn't scare me, just haven't done it before 😅 I'll do some more research (to see if there is more information that ive missed) and see what can be done. Cheers
Hey mate. Yeah everything is good. been doing plenty of racing but not much filming. Both cars are going well. The motivation to make videos has been rather low lately. But Ive actually just purchased a new camera so will get back into it soon
What were the turbine AR on the old turbo vs new? Ive been told Ex back pressure is a real issue leading to EX valve float.. looking at a 6758 with a .63 for a 2L auto beams build.
they were both the same at .82, but the 7163 has a bigger wheel. I think the 6758 is the perfect turbo for a 2l if you want good response and 450whp. I would go up to a .82 twin scroll housing and use a good set of valve springs.
@@hawes_power5590 Thanks, recommendation on who to speak to re. valve springs in NZ? I have a set of the "uprated" Toda springs for the Beams but they don't spec there lbs. Realistically they will be to cover the Toda high lift cams with a raised RPM limit.... but how far will they go on a boosted Beams... well not keen to find out the hard way, (sorry for your loss). Thinking these will be fine on the inlet side and I source something heaver for the EX side. Thanks for ya time.
@@timonthornley2656 well i have seen several beams fail on the kelford springs. the first set i used were from kennelly cams. they obviously didnt work but would likely be fine without running anti lag. im now running some custom dual springs which have been good so far but need to put more kays on them. sorry i dont really have a good answer for you
hard to say, i dont know what things cost in the US. mechanically its a very easy swap. the expensive parts are the ECU/wiring and exhaust fabrication. depends how much you can do yourself...
Hey Mate, have you ever thought about offering the head flange for sale? I’d like to buy 2 from you or even the cad file to make a manifold for my Altezza.
What conrod bearings did you use and what was the clearance? I am assembling a 3S beams block using ACL 4B8366H-STD bearings which gives conrod clearance of 0.0025", the STD spec is 0.0009 - 0.0022", is my clearance too large? When i measure the clearance using the original toyota bearings i get 0.0015".
I used factory 5S bearings, and my engine builder set the clearance to 0.0025" which he recommened for a race car (slightly looser than factory). I would consult with an engine builder but it sounds like your clearance is the same as mine and should work nicely
Honestly considering either this swap or a volvo t5... Whats this weight all together and does ac fit still? Is there enough room without redoing the cooling package completely?
the 6 cylinder is slightly heavier as you would expect, dont know the numbers but its not significant. you may need custom AC lines plenty of room for the cooling package
@@hawes_power5590 thanks I actually found a blown car yesterday and eh well I have a spare built t5 so I made an adapter plate tonight lol. I think the 300tq at 2500rpm fixes what I hate about the car. And the t5 is about 100lbs lighter than the fa and about 80lbs less than the ez30. Having a few fast Volvos and lots of parts I can throw together a nice punchy 350hp motor for damn near free at this point.
still out here defying engineering. heres to all the carved out 5s heads. there are better buckets out there, stiff springs im gonna say could be the solution most likely. valve float is an issue in all anti lag cars. hope it goes well, im watching what you do so I can potentially get a 5s reengineered by myself and present it to a bit engine manufacturer maybe get toyota on it
Do you do any injector cleaning? Might want to invest in an injector cleaning machine and clean every so often. E85 and old gas combo totally gunked up my Injector Dynamic 2000cc injectors and fuel system. I am going to do it as regular maintenance now. I had white yellow hardened gunk. Your dyno might have gained more HP if you did that. I'd even check your FPR diaphragm. I have a high boost 5th gen and its something you might want to look into. I found out by oil analysis and then it got progressively worse. As for the head damage maybe don't rev as high?
i wouldnt usually clean the injectors unless there was a problem. the fuel wasnt that old. the fuel we use is pretty much 95 octane with an additive to add octane. this additive is known to desolve after a few months, effectivly making it 95 octane (equivalent to 91 in the USA). what amkes you say the diapram. i log the fuel pressure and it was rock solid... I rev it less than the factory beams engine, i went over the reasons for failure in the video.
My fuel pressure was good too. Now im overhauling my whole fuel setup due to a cracked FPR diaphragm (e85) residue on it and an injector that I suspect was dripping and got worse over time. Backwards benched cleaned and blew a piece of junk out which I suspect was from not running a 5 micron filter. Just saying if you race it and take it apart you should at least check your fuel system while its apart. I didn't know till I had Blackstone Labs told me in oil analysis.
