Your video helped a lot! Watched a video where the guy loosened his engine bolts so he could get the belt on the front pulley, sure glad I watched yours and found out I could just slide the pulley down a little. 👍🏼
Thanks, I thought that was how you wired it, what was throwing me off was L2 was a blue wire and that is usually a neutral wire, but both L1& L2 are hot wires, thanks for making the video, you're the only help I've found!
Did you install the unit completely? How does it work? Mine works amazingly in over 100 degree temperature in Northern California heat waves recently. The cooling stage for a 1560 sq single story house is unbelievable and saves electricity bills tremendously. Also, the Wifi app is so convenient for tuning on and off while traveling as long as wifi is available. Never go to a conventional heat pump again. period.😂😂
I'm having trouble seeing where you hooked the 220 wires from the breaker box to the outside unit, do you hook the 2 hot wires to L1 & L2 and leave the "S" wire blank? I see where ground goes, Thanks Ira
Made one out of two wheel barrow wheels about 4 years ago.....but i dont get it, you said you didnt have a few days to wait on the well guy but spent about 4 days building the thing, unless you change clothes 2-3 times a day? If the emergency was really that bad, why not three wood poles some rope and a pulley to make a tripod for the emergency....nice roller for the poly pipe though.
Hey John, I have the same tractor. My tractor will not start. The oil and battery light come on but the glow plug light doesn’t. I replaced the battery because it was 11 years old. Still won’t start, won’t even crank. Have you had issues like this with yours?
Sounds like your tractor has an electric connection problem on the starter solenoid. You should check it with a tester first. My tractor doesn't turn on the glow plug light nether, but it is no problem to start the engine.
I checked them and they look good. I even checked the one that is in line with the starter, 40amp looks good. I’m going to see if the starter is good by bypassing the switch. To if that’s the problem.
@@johnlopez-ds7br Did you find the problem? If not then try the following procedure. Sounds like it has a safety switch issue. First the parking brake must be on and the drive shaft on the left should be neutral. Also, the two levers on the left side for the middle PTO mower must be all the way back. Because all of the above procedures are for safety. It should start the engine. Let me know any questions. John
I think they are a great little saw, I purchased one for brushing some overgrown fields. I put a 18" Laser bar & chain on it just for more reach and replaced the standard clutch with a cartridge type to help keep the chain from being thrown by grass and brush. I love the saw, it starts so easy and runs great.
Where’d you get the lights? I cant find the LED headlights anywhere. I don’t need the whole black plastic part. Mines good but I can’t find it anywhere
Why has there not been some type of class action lawsuit against cub cadet with these mowers? This has been going on for years and they are still making junk. I for one will never own another cub cadet of any shape or form. JUNK PURE JUNK.
@@jkk040 203 cubic inches is what that stands for. I have the exact same, ive seen many similar, but yours is same same dash, same spot for battery. I don't have the roll cage, and I have fork lift forks on the back custom made. Works good for my 1500 pound concrete counter weight. My CAV injection pump after 50 plus years finally died. Awesome rig thanks for the reply.
I have repaired the CAV injection pump a couple times. that was leaking the fuel from the linkage. It has been working fine ever since. I think the repair kit for the injection pump is still available.
John, I finished the installation of the Predator engine, etc. The engine runs really well- better than the B&S. A new Lovejoy coupling was needed as the Engine's shaft is 3/4" and the original B&S shaft was 7/8". Needed a new Spider gear too. HF shipped me the engine for a total price of about $160. Cheapest price around! You don't need to add steel mounting bands to the frame. Only one of the engine mounting bolts has to be secured "oddly". Make a short 1/2" diameter pipe "stand-off" which will be placed in the recessed portion of the old engine's mounting plate. Following HF's recommendation for the 3 hour break-in, I didn't attach the hydraulic pump. I did this to reduce a amount of "wear and tear" on the pump. But......when test firing the engine, which has a break-in period of 3 hours run at normal no-load speed, make sure not to let the hydraulic fluid reservoir hose fall to the ground, like I did- it'll cost you $80 to re-fill the reservoir. The fluid recommended by MTD as Dexron III so that's what I bought- $20 a gallon at Walmart. But, I did see at Walmart "hydraulic fluid" at, if I remember correctly, $20 for 2 gallons. Didn't want to take any chances in damaging the machine so I used the more expensive fluid. The only real problem with the MTD 25 ton splitter is that it makes 1 split at a time. Some fellas' have put a 4-way wedge onto their machines but the comments indicate it doesn't attach well or work well. Thanks for the video- it was very helpful.
I have the same make and model. I have been trying to dial in the V and A for the mig. If you don't mind me asking, did you figure that out and what is a good setting for 1/8 metal? Thanks
Hi @John's Ranch -- I would love your input. I have the Scott's 1742S, I have made it a personal project to get this thing running. I am not handy like you but I am learning. I have a new battery, I have a new starter, new engine filter, new fuel filter and fuel line, and new tires. I am still having trouble getting this thing started. It clicks but it won't turn over. Battery is brand new and jumped, and starter is also brand new. Thinking since starter is new I either burnt it up, or the solenoid is bad. Or maybe ignition. Do you have ideas on if its the ignition switch, solenoid, and where I could buy these parts to replace? any advice for replacing them? I can't find the solenoid. Thank you so much for your help.
If you have a new battery new starter and when you turn the switch it just goes click let off the switch try it again and it just clicks it is most likely a bad solenoid and needs to be replaced either under the hood on the panel where the switch is there on the side or it could be under the the body under the seat against the back you can use a universal solenoid just make sure you get one with the sane number poles either two or four make sure you can connect all the wires like they are on the one you have and then the motor should spin over.
Iv'e heard in the reviews this isn't actually 4.3 GPM. Is that true? How do I know how many BTU my gas line can handle? We use a showerhead that is not water efficient. Will that overwhelm the heater? Can at least two things that use hot water run at once with this?
@jkk040 Understandable. My wife and I have been without hot water for a month, almost, and my father-in-law and I have replaced everything but the burner and the tank for our hot water heater. I gave up on trying to fix it. I just bought a tankless water heater on Amazon. thrue affirm because a new tank hot water heater is actually more expensive than the tankless and harder to install. We got the same one you installed in the video.
That is the same reason I installed tankless. I installed it through the owner's manual except for some plumbing and hardware brackets which are shown in the video. Also, the heater required 3/4" propane gas pipe size but had to be installed 1/2" full port size. It has been working so well for almost 4 months without any problem. Hope yours works as well.. Thanks
