Hey! I want to apologize for my wrong statement regarding the rodinal... Densitometric testing gave me the optimal ISO of 12 for this film, for the 8 min 1+25 Rodinal development, my negatives where thereby heavily underexposed, but still printable and also scanable... Greetings Maurizio
@@codysergeant1486 Thank you for the update. The film is very grainy when using the r72 filter. I also saw a very dense negative when using it. It seems fine and I kinda like the grain that comes with the IR r72 filter. The same roll shooting normally with no filter shows different grain. Did you find this as well?
@@Socialmocracy I will do more test but as far as I know, that is not the case. I, however did some 40x50 cm enlargement of my negative and could observe some mottling!
@@Socialmocracy Much cheaper from the look of it! I'm seeing 250-400 for one of these compared to $800 for the 617 back. I wonder if I can still return it LOL
@@craynotcreigh well at least with the back you can use newer glass. This camera you can’t change the lens. It does make a lager image than the 617 back at 618cm.
@@Socialmocracy For sure! Thanks for sharing your findings and your artwork. I've watched all your films just today. I'm looking forward to seeing your future videos!
Funny enough I was trying to get my hands on a No.4 Panoram just before this video came out. Nice to see some results though because there isnt much info on these online
@@ClementinesCoins I just ordered a No.4. I will be doing the same thing to it as I did with the AL-Vista 3B. But I’ll have to make my own spools. So I’ll be doing a video on making spools repairing the bellows cutting film and making backing paper for the 103 size film.
@@Socialmocracy Nice one mate, Cant wait to see the process, I have the same plan, got about 500ft of aviphot on the way specifically for respooling to 122 & 103 roll film. Wouldnt mind getting a look at any plans you make for the backing paper and spool when you make them!
@@ClementinesCoins I did a test over the weekend and had some black completely opaque results. I working on 122 as well as the 103, and 104. Finally got a AL-Vista 5 inch.
@@Socialmocracy Awesome mate, cant wait to see more! Unfortunately Al Vista's are way out of my price range so ill have to stick to kodak panorams for now!
That is so cool. My mom collects old time cameras. She doesn’t do anything with them other than putting on a shelf. I used to play with them when I was little. She’d get upset and say not to play with them they aren’t toys. I found a working one when I was in high school. I bought it and gave to mom for her birthday. Had some film for it and she was so excited because she had a camera flash with no camera. I had unknowingly purchased the camera that went with her flash. She enjoyed taking pictures with the camera for a while. Then she stopped so it could sit on the shelf with the others.
Thank you for sharing your story. I unfortunately or fortunately have this need to make them work. I feel a little envious of older generations when I find a camera that you can’t get film anymore for. It sounds like your mother really enjoys her collection and good work increasing it with the right camera.
The towel? That was my first dark cloth. It helps with focusing the camera. At the time the cheapest dark cloth was like $70. I was broke and still wanted to use the camera so I improvised.
OH WOW! Such a beautiful camera, pictures and experience in bringing it back to life! What was that lens-box-shutter thing with the cable release connected to it?
That shutter box is called a Tommy Thornton Shutter. This specific one fits 2 inch diameter lenses. I got it from Japan for my 150mm Extreme W.A. Anastigmat The Scientific Lens Co. lens
5:21 I'm guessing no if it's all metal internals, moving parts being greased or oiled can go a long way, adding too much may make every exposure time slightly slower but it will protect it. Since your shafts have wallowed out the holes a little I would recommend either putting some bushings in or using a thick oil/grease.
@@deltacx1059 Unfortunately the bushings are that top and bottom plate. I would need to make a replacement plate or use some punches to close the gap. Both require disassembly of the spring motor assembly. About a day or so ago I finally found some patents for this line of cameras. But unlike the panoram Kodak patents the patents I found don’t have detail motor drive assembly. I’m still looking into it. If I find a way to probably do a fix I’ll make a video on the process.
@@Socialmocracy it looked to me that there was starting to be enough room for a small flanged bushing to be slipped on but that could have just been the lighting making it look that way. Either way hope you get it sorted.
So this might be a stupid question, but would it be possible to turn a X-ray film negative into a positive using a developer process. I’ve never done this before (clearly) but i have seen reversal film developer kits. If it was possible, you could just display the positive film image mounted directly on an led white panel and negate the printing process altogether. Maybe the base fog would be too much for this to be displayed as a positive slide.
Black and white reversal is possible with X-ray film. You would have to test for desired results. I’m not sure how the kits work. I’m guessing they include a first developer a bleach a second developer and instruct you on how to rinse and fix. Something similar to color reversal films. The main issue is figuring out proper exposures. Too much light and it would fog out too little light and the image would look washed out. Test test test would be the best advice that I could suggest. Fuji make this film in lots of sizes and 100 sheets of 8x10 HR-U is $48 on z&z medical website. Test till you have a method then scale up to whatever size you would want.
Why contact print? Use the camera as an enlarger to project the film onto an even larger photographic paper. :P But in all seriousness, it looks really cool! Looking forward to seeing it completed.
Outstanding, I have the exact same dream, I collect panoramic cameras, Cirkut, Al-Vista, Kodak, all the old banquets, Korona, Folmer Schwing, even a home made swing lens with Hasselblad 80 mm lens. My project is a V11 Deardorff with a 14x20 back, same as the photographer Kenro Izu uses. The same issue was with film, the availability and cost. Your X-ray film idea does shed a new light on my project. The Deardorff rear standard will accept 8 X 20, 12 X 20, and the original Deardorff 14 x 20 frame, only a few were ever made. This all fits the rear of a V11 (11x14).
That’s awesome! We have similar interests. I want a Cirkut camera one day. I have been cutting down aerial film for my AL-Vista and my other odd ball sizes. Do you have a video on you camera?
That's not a camera that's a wardrobe LOL. But seriously that is nicely done and looking good. I look forward to seeing your progress on it, please keep us updated as you go.
@@iansimpson9351 Funny you say that. When I made a sketch of it my wife asked if I was drawing a picture of “Shoji” or rice paper Japanese style doors. She saw the ground glass with all the grid lines. So the camera project name became that. Project Shoji.
There’s a company that might be able to cut film to type-101 width in Ukraine, Astrum ltd. Idk why my comments keep disappearing. Any time I write anything detailed it gets removed.
Hey, just FYI, the black plastic bag that Aviphot comes in is easily torn by the metal spool in there, so always handle it in complete darkness even if it’s in the bag. Good news is, it’s on a daylight spool so any light that does find it won’t get past the first 2-3 layers of film, maybe the first 5 feet or so.
On the top side of the camera there is a dial indicator. It is connected to a shaft that connects to a wheel. The wheel makes contact with the backing paper and film. As you advance the film through the camera. The dial indicator rotates. There are two main positions “10” and “5”. If you leave the levers for half frame in the 10 position then you observe a full rotation from 10 to 10. If you activate the half frame lever to the 5 position then you observe 10 to 5 or 5 to 10. I talk about using the camera in my video “I brought a film format back from the dead” if you want to know more about the camera.
Very cool camera -- At least as interesting as the modern versions made for 120 or 135 format !! But my question goes more towards film stock. What will you use when old no more produced material is running out? Any plan/thoughts ? FYI: i use right Fuji Xray material for 9x12cm, being in the building phase of an ULF camera. -- I for myself thought in case that even xray material becomes difficult and/or expensive to get, that I can still use paper inkl. color paper
@@FrankTitzeArt I have been work on and off with making my own emulsions. I have successfully made a 20ish iso emulsion for glass plates. But an issue comes up. I have been unsuccessful at using the off the shelf optical polyester plastic available online. I’m having trouble with the emulsion not sticking and lifting off during development. Separately, I was working on a 14x36 inch ULF camera till I ran into issue with woodworking. I’m having trouble making a usable film holder. So I started working on this project and put a hold on both the emulsion and ULF camera. I have a lens most of the camera built and bellows. Do you have any post about your camera online? How did you make your cut film sheet holder?
@@Socialmocracy I have the base construction for the back standard and the base for the 30x40cm. The front is an ordinary Toyo standard for all movements I'd like to have. I am not yet yet ready to share a lot., but it is a serious project as I purchased sever lenses for that design, a 75 and 90mm repo-camera shutter (24V DC) for which I just programmed a shutter,, lacking housing. And I have several parts like focus screen and fresnel and other stuff laying around. Bellows is missing.also. The whole construction is made by 20x20 X-profiles and so will be the holders outerframe. Yes, the tricky part is still indeed the film holders. Here I changed several time my design.due to reasons: cost, weight, build-ability, flexibility. Right now I plan for black fiber plate as the base plate. Likely 3 mm, the darkslides will be 1mm. I plan not loading like any normal holder, but from the "exposing" side. using a frame to hold down the sheet on all sides with 1cm frame. The pressure shall come from magnets. I consider still also the feature to have with help of reduction frame also 24x30cm material or even others also optional loaded in the same 30x40cm holders. 24x30 is the max size for single sided mamo x-ray films and it offers more flexibilty with lenses. Plan is to have the camera ready to use for next Spring. The idea with the magnets I saw here, despite that the rest of my holders is different and also two sided: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l2XBu0WjeK4.html BTW: I also consider ways to develop the xray films scratch free.. While I as considering tanks for a while, I will try to got to trays but have the film in a frame under tension. Background: So far I was only successful with the xray films (9x12) in Rodinal..... But being a 1-time developer, it produces a lot of chemical waste. So I have to minimize the volume as far as possible. One element will be the punching of office binder holes in my 1cm sheet frame hold the sheets in frames. Reason is obvious: I do not plan to make just a a few pics and then give up..With current xray film sheet costs in Germany for 24x30 (Mamo(1,30 $/EUR) or 30x40 (dual sided 0,90 $/EUR) is the film material itself (not the chemistry, archive sheets,...) in the ballpark of medium format picture costs (Ilford/Kodak). As indicated, it is too early to claim victory..., but I'll try further to get it done. And in meantime, I still need to find time to shoot still fullframe digital(BW/color) and analog (BW in in MF and LF).
@@FrankTitzeArt I had similar issues when building my 14x36 inch. The X-ray sheets here in the USA is $75 for 25 sheets or about $3 a shot. But at 504 square inches. It is the largest film you can buy. Ethan’s 20x24 inch is legendary. That dude had it all figured out. I got my base, front and rear standards built. As well as the bellows and back. I need to complete the ground glass and film holder as well as lens board. I got two lenses so far. A very wide angle 500mm and a 1070mm. The 500mm somewhat covers it. The corners are soft not as sharp. Unfortunately I have yet to find single sided x-ray film in the 14”x 36” inch size. I have developed with glass in the tray and my 8x10 shots have had no scratches. Flat bottom or add a piece of glass should help. Also dip and dunk tanks. I was using Kodak Dektol 1+5 for 2-3 minutes at room temperature. This got me about 20 sheets of 8x10 developed. I only changed it because I saw hairs and other debris in the liquid. Otherwise, I don’t think I would’ve needed to throw it away. I’ll add a link to my album here if you are interested in the progress www.flickr.com/gp/197703301@N08/271427P5A0
@@SocialmocracyYou found an Apo Ronar 1070mm,, thst was also on my search list. I found 800mm Apo Tessar for a bargain price and was already happy... But meanwhile I got also a bargin a 900mm Apo Tessar and I could not resist, despite I do not expect practical differences Anyhow are with f9 are both so heavy that I need an extra robust front standard in addition. For normal use I hope to become successful with my short lenses from Rodenstock, Staeble and Konica. Especially for the last two brands reap. their lenses are spec sheets not existing.
Interesting. It probably would have been worth opening and closing the video with examples of final images you got from the camera. RU-vid kinda just dropped me into this video without ever showing anything else from your channel first.
@@Socialmocracy any time. I partly just wanted to warn you that RU-vid was sending people here first. Now that I look at your videos, that was probably pretty obvious to you lol. Looks like you have a decent start. I wish you luck in building the channel!
Great video! I noticed the fox figure in the background and it's fantastic. Did you 3D print it yourself? If so, could you let me know where I can find the file for it?
That’s 1899 technology for ya. My panoram Kodak really relies on the film speed. I couldn’t get away with using IR film. This camera with its unique and much more sophisticated shutter speeds system allows me to use much slower speed films. Now if I just had the money for a Noblex lol.
