I just did the booster and the alternator with pump on my 2002 GMC W4500. The only thing I haven't changed is the alt brake assist vacuum pump on the left side of the dash. The reason I did all this is because I lost the brakes driving. I can't find an affordable alt brake assist and I am not sure if it needs replacing. Can't find any information on it or what it actually does. Can you help?
Hello first of all thank you for your video absolutely saved me second thing is it okay to install the new air bag and close it up before resetting the module or do I have to reset the module and only then install the air bag? And do I need to do it with the battery disconnected? Thank you
Not if you didn't mess with releasing brake fluid or allowed air into the system. or, not for that matter. bleed them because I believe the problem is with air in the system and it has to be bled al the way to the abs pump. this is almost close to the rear axel under the truck.
Hello, nice video. Do you know why there are these metal « rounds » (don’t know the English term) you can see at 6:19 just under the bolt on one side only but not on the other side? Thank you.
Hi, thank you for your comment. I believe you're referring to the washer. and not I'm not sure. I don't remember seeing the difference. I'll try checking that. Those washers, [ round metal plates inside the bolt,] are fixed into the bolt. the wont come out. so, if they wanted one there, they would of put one on the other side. It maybe that the frame is build not to need it. I'll try checking
@@mrmoreno4640 Yes, the washers ! 😅 Because when I disassembled the frame last time, I tried to not put it back because it felt strange to me they would be on one side only… But after putting it back together, I could hear the characteristic sound of the sway bar knocking so I guess they are necessary and installed from factory to compensate for a slight twist in the chassis maybe ? 🤔 Anyway thank you, I will test to hear if the sound is still there after putting the washers back on it.
Waiting for the graphic designer to reach out to me as a got a custom one, so I'm still waiting to get mine in the mail. But thank you for informative video! Between this and the instructions I think I can figure it out.
@@Mrmorzun Not sure yet! The name of car is Littlebird. I'd like that written on there in a font I picked out and I have a minimalistic image of a bird I like. Beyond that I'll be looking for some creativity from the artist to help!
Excellent video ! Is it possible to buy the remote control (+ the electrical circuit) separately in case we have a windblocker with LED but without remote control ?
thank you for your comment. not being part of the whole set up. I'm sure there's plenty of LED applications out there with remote you could adapt to it.
Was this car rwd? I have a 2011 G37x sedan I'm gonna tackle this job some time soon I've had control arms sitting in the garage for awhile I finally have access to a lift
@@mrmoreno4640 thanks! btw, do we need to replace the impact sensor part? I'm researching on a miata nc, the owner claimed that the driver side airbag was deployed when he slamed the door? I suppose the snesor was not damaged.
This is the link where they sell used parts. This is where I got the bags.www.redlineautoparts.com/mazda-miata/1990-2005-na-nb-miata/1999-2005-mazda-miata-side-skirts-mud-flaps-oem-mahogany-mica-nb194/?network=g&device=m&keyword=&campaign=1717427966&adgroup=pla-404383584840&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkKqsBhC3ARIsAEEjuJikoeiS9z4kWGJZ6V0mJ0G6uk1QIJf93xreoPJH-6Dj32ISDaZzzUYaAoPMEALw_wcB
I ended up having to drop the subframe completely the bolts where just too dang tight! Probably adds an extra 2-3hr’s. So definitely try this way first
Easy fix! I have a 2013 F-150 5.0. Once your truck gets a few miles on it, you need to use a thicker oil! Ford recommends 5W20, but that’s too thin and makes your Oil Pressure Censor come on after a while and when it warms up. Just switch to 5W30 and your problem will go away!!!
Hi.i was wondering if u had to reset the brake booster warning light on the instrument panel and if so how did you it? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you very much for the response. It needed more work than we originally thought and ended up bringing it to a place that specializes in isuzu's.after everything was all said and im glad I was sitting down when they gave me the bill. Take care buddy
@@brentgraves1151truck shops don't play around with repair prices. When we first sent it out for inspection or diagnosis. They charged us 800 just to tell us it needed brake cylinders and brakes...😢😮😮
I paid a total of 3000.they said it was the brake booster hence the brake booster light and buzzing noise that goes along with it and after the truck got a new one the light and buzzing noise remained. It ended up being one of the master cylindesr in the back .I wish I would of just had them diagnose it as that's something I could of easily done. that was the first time in my life I actually had 3000 in the bank. It never fails .everytime" and there's only been a few times" I have any money at all in the bank life says o no u dont. Never fails.it is what It is.could be worse.i could live in Ukraine or on the west bank.i dont tho but i think about stuff like that all the time as one should when they are feeling sorry for themselves.
@brentgraves1151 Sorry to hear they reset your bank account. I see life as a spinning donut with a bite on one edge. Life goes around, and sooner or later, I get a taste of the bite. I hope your luck will turn for you soon. Funny is the exact same thing with the light. It came on after replacing the booster until I went looking for those brake wheel cylinders. Unfortunately, shops don't hold on while charging people. Good luck to you!!
Woooooooow this the best video I did see hover here Congratulations guy you are the best Thanks for your explanation about Replacement brake buster on npr isuzu
Hi. I tried it but I failed. The 4 sway bar bolts were impossible to loose. You mention you must have heated them up. What kind of heating, like a gas torch? Is it safe to do it on a car?
Hello, sorry to hear that. They're a pain!. If you're not familiar at all with using the torch, I would NOT recommend you do it. If you're still want to try. Do it at your own discretion and risk please. Map gas ( yellow bottle and a torch) you can get them at Home Depot. You should grab a fire extinguisher while you're there. I always do. The flame plus heat wave is about 12 inches. Make sure you have enough room behind the flame. No plastic or rubber near or directly onto the flame! Metal should be ok, so be very conscious of the flame direction and what's behind it as well as what is flammable and prompt to catch on fire. Heat for about 4 mins and go directly to try losing it. Point towards the part that hosts the bolt. It will be hot. Use gloves. Remember. You're trying to melt the thread lock they may have put and also make the metal expand Good luck!
Best way is to buy a new one for 15 dollars. You can match the pattern online or if you have the package your wheel lock code is the last two digits of the code on the little card in the package. The number should be in the range of 41 to 60. Type "JEUCLEL 21PCS Wheel Locking Nut compatible with BMW" in Google search to see the set.
Drill a 1/2 hole from the cabin side (inside where the video shows that green pointer that's pointing at the bottom corner of the drain box (the very bottom) Then you can clean it out from that side. Once it's clean, install a 1/2 rubber plug into the hole. Now you've got easy access to clean it out next time. Especially if you have a V6. Stupid Ford design. I swear Ford employs the dumbest engineers on the planet.
Awsome video. After pumping the brake 1 or 2 is going all the way down and I get the same brake booster light and am annoying buzzing sound and the truck barely brakes while in drive. When I drive it the booster alarm stops, and the brakes work better but not perfect. I replace all of the brakes, and 2 of the drum cylinders but left existing other 2. I'm going to just replace those because this job is not easy.
I'm with you. A while ago I did the real cylinders and shoes but is very low quality. But yes, is pain in the... there!😅. Let me know when you fix it please.
Thank for this video it was well explained… I’d like to see you do as many basic repairs videos on your Mazda as possible… I’m interested in seeing you do a full air filter change and a brake and rotor change … thank you 🙏
i have a 2006 isuzu npr 5.2L and the brake booster is blinking so do i need to replace the brake booster and this problem would stop or do i need to add fluid to the brake master cylinder please help me out i really enjoy watching your video
Hi. I'm not sure if this would be the same system. if it is, start by checking your fluid, if the fluid is low you may have a leak check everywhere, including under dash between master cylinder and booster. Then make sure there's vacuum on the system. like you saw on the video. this vacuum is generated by the alternator shaft into the vacuum pump. best of luck!
@crayshaunhenderson1265 brake booster may give you at least two different noises. Vacuum leaks noise. This will sound like air leaking specially when the brake pedal is depressed. It could still be heard lightly without depressing the pedal. The other noise could be a spring like sound where your diaphragm may be bad. There may be other issues around there. I recommend you visit your local mechanic for a better diagnosis.
