Thanks for this, I had to do this as I just couldn't get enough strength to undo the rear bolt. To get the bracket back in place I used a woodworking clamp and tightened it back down enough to drop the bolt back in.
I did the job today and everything was just as your video shows. The hardest part on my car was to lose the sway bar bolts. They were quite tight. Thanks!
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, just put my new bushings in yesterday and the car feels new compared to before. Appreciate having the videos available to fix my car. I did need to turn the steering wheel slightly to get the steering linkage to clear the body of the car, as well as use a prybar on the subframe to get it seat back where it was. You can do it on jack stands, not as fun though.
A good video. Many Owners replace the roll bar and rear control arm bolts with longer ones after drilling out the threads in the sub-frame. That way you can push the bolt up from the bottom and secure with a nut. Making replacement in the future far easier. I've started replacing all the bushes on these as it's just easier to do everything then just the bushing that need repalcement. After all you are already into the workings, ya might as well do it all in one go.
Thank you. Great video, just what I was looking for. Making sure vehicle is secure on jacks before. Extra safety is to stack both front wheels under oil and transmission if it fell with boards.
Struggling to get the leverage to undo the bolts on the bracket clamping down the bushing. I’ve got an 18mm spanner on it but it’s just not long enough to get the power I need! Might have to invest in a breaker bar or something!
Just as an update for anyone else that is as unfortunate as me with their mini… here’s a tale of my saga and how I overcame it! I did the steps in this video and although it dropped the subframe it didn’t quite drop it enough for me to gain access. So because I didn’t have a lot of time I took it to a local garage who then couldn’t remove the subframe because two bolts were spinning. They recommended taking it to mini or a mini specialist both of which quoted me around £1000 just to sort out the two bolts… 🤮 What I did instead was remove the wheels, suspension struts, brake callipers and drop links. From there I was able to get a breaker bar/ratchet into the wheel arch and loosen/remove the bolt you can see from the outside. I’ll note that on the drivers side (UK) I needed to switch between a 6 and 12 point socket to get the right angle for leverage on the drivers side which was slow but eventually got it out. Once one bolt had been removed from each, I bent the bracket upwards to give enough room to knock the bushes out. I then slid the new bushes onto the anti roll / sway bar and manoeuvred them into place. From there I bent the bracket back down and replaced the bolt and everything else. Hope this helps someone else with this job that is definitely a lot harder than it sounds! 🤞
Thanks for doin this video! this will help me get a head start on a cooper haven't mess with them and the costumer wants to upgrade their suspension and it includes sway bar.
I ended up having to drop the subframe completely the bolts where just too dang tight! Probably adds an extra 2-3hr’s. So definitely try this way first
Well done on providing this video ... my 2009 R57 Cooper S has been 'clunking' for a few months now. Your video has given me the confidence to tackle the job when the British weather gets a bit warmer. Just a quick question ... would it not be better just to loosen the steering shaft link (in the footwell) which should allow just a little bit more movement when dropping the subframe?
Hi. I tried it but I failed. The 4 sway bar bolts were impossible to loose. You mention you must have heated them up. What kind of heating, like a gas torch? Is it safe to do it on a car?
Hello, sorry to hear that. They're a pain!. If you're not familiar at all with using the torch, I would NOT recommend you do it. If you're still want to try. Do it at your own discretion and risk please. Map gas ( yellow bottle and a torch) you can get them at Home Depot. You should grab a fire extinguisher while you're there. I always do. The flame plus heat wave is about 12 inches. Make sure you have enough room behind the flame. No plastic or rubber near or directly onto the flame! Metal should be ok, so be very conscious of the flame direction and what's behind it as well as what is flammable and prompt to catch on fire. Heat for about 4 mins and go directly to try losing it. Point towards the part that hosts the bolt. It will be hot. Use gloves. Remember. You're trying to melt the thread lock they may have put and also make the metal expand Good luck!
Thanks Mike! There's really not a lot of tools required for this job. If you like to get dirty fixing your car, building your tool box set is an investment that could help you on your next fix. But if I can help I'm in Dallas. Very limited time though. Good luck!!
@@Mrmorzun I do not have a jack/lift like the one you have, but the others tools. I will contact some mechanic in the area, to lift the car. by the way I am in California.. Thank again
Hello, nice video. Do you know why there are these metal « rounds » (don’t know the English term) you can see at 6:19 just under the bolt on one side only but not on the other side? Thank you.
Hi, thank you for your comment. I believe you're referring to the washer. and not I'm not sure. I don't remember seeing the difference. I'll try checking that. Those washers, [ round metal plates inside the bolt,] are fixed into the bolt. the wont come out. so, if they wanted one there, they would of put one on the other side. It maybe that the frame is build not to need it. I'll try checking
@@mrmoreno4640 Yes, the washers ! 😅 Because when I disassembled the frame last time, I tried to not put it back because it felt strange to me they would be on one side only… But after putting it back together, I could hear the characteristic sound of the sway bar knocking so I guess they are necessary and installed from factory to compensate for a slight twist in the chassis maybe ? 🤔 Anyway thank you, I will test to hear if the sound is still there after putting the washers back on it.
Hey I see you have a shop; did you to see if a speciality wrench where it bends? Because I need to my bushings but A.) don’t have a lift so really can’t drop the frame B.) shops charge too high around here
Would it be possible to loosen the four swaybar bolts just maybe an inch or so, enough to lift the bracket and slide the rubber bushing out? Then slide new bushing in and tighten down?
Not sure if I understood. The sway bar has two inner brackets with hardly any room to loosen them up. The idea of partially dropping the sub frame is to get to those bolts.
Yes it solved the problem. Usually the symptoms for a bad sway bar bushings is a clunking sound when you pass a bump typically on a smooth road between 10-30 mph. Not a metal sound. Good luck
